Jon61

Eurobricks Vassals
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  1. More information on PF elements is available at the following link. It confirms that 8878 (the 'set' number for the rechargeable box) and 88000 the AAA box, are the same size. You may want to bear in mind though that the AAA battery box does not have the variable power control, and you will need to be able to access it sufficiently to remove the batteries for recharging, whereas as long as you can get a plug into the socket on 8878 you can recharge it in situ. https://www.lego.com/en-gb/powerfunctions/articles
  2. In the UK Tesco Direct are currently selling: 42070 All Terrain Tow Truck for £131 https://www.tesco.com/direct/lego-technic-6x6-all-terrain-tow-truck-42070/183-7319.prd?promoId=promo53180063&skuId=183-7319 42069 Extreme Adventure for £83 https://www.tesco.com/direct/lego-technic-extreme-adventure-42069/173-9796.prd?promoId=promo53180063&skuId=173-9796 Sadly Tesco have announced they are going to close Tesco Direct in about a month's time, and I assume this is why they're cutting prices to get rid of their stock. Another often-competitively-priced outlet disappearing ...
  3. Jon61

    Rolling Bridge

    Wonderful Lego implementation of a real bridge design (perhaps this was the inspiration?) : It's also been built in Meccano btw:
  4. I presume you're referring again to the issue you mentioned further above that arose eg with the 8043 excavator. I don't think this issue is completely avoidable, as rotating the superstructure inevitably applies an unwanted turning motion to the other shaft(s) (whether concentric or not) that go through the turntable. I believe the best you can do is to gear up (or at least don't gear down) the shafts before they go through the turntable, then gear them down afterwards. In this way, any spurious rotation introduced by rotating the superstructure has a lesser effect on the other functions (eg steering, drive). Edit: Oops, posted the same answer almost simultaneously with emielroumen above.
  5. Ah, yes, a weapon barrel, of course, how come I didn't think of that ... thanks and well done! Thanks once more aeh, I've got the parts list now. Just need to start saving up for some of the rarer parts (or work out what I can use instead!)
  6. I greatly admired this model when you first uploaded the video - it's very clever, both in its original idea, and the mechanism using the differentials to achieve the close ratios. This is just what Lego Technic is about to me and thank you very much @aeh5040 for making the instructions freely available It will probably be a while before I have enough Lego to build this, but I have bookmarked it and downloaded the build instructions. In the meantime, there were a few parts I struggled to recognise in the parts list - can the OP or anyone else help with these questions please? : what part is the wheel/ring thing that appears just above the differential housing in the parts list (first used on page 2)? [Edit: pic: ] if I've identified them correctly, is it necessary specifically to use 3 of the Technic, Gear 16 Tooth (Old Style with Round Holes) rather than just 10 of Technic, Gear 16 Tooth (New Style Reinforced)? (The 3 old-style ones used on page 6 seem to perform the same function as the 3 new-style ones on page 19) And confirmation of the following: I've worked out that the long link is Technic, Link 1 x 16 I believe the tall 6x2 brick used in each counterweight is Boat Weight 2 x 6 x 2 - Bottom Sealed, Dimple on Ends [ Included here just for completeness, already identified by Blakbird above that the coloured pendulum bobs are Container, X-Pod Bottom Cap 9 x 9 x 1 ] Thanks again.
  7. To recap, I bought two 8869 switches, unaware that the design had been changed last year to remove the direction switch. I complained to Lego, pointing out that what they sent me wasn't what was still being pictured on their website, and they immediately said that they would send me two "that have all the attributes pictured". The two new switches arrived today, and (not to my complete surprise, I have to say) they are exactly the same as the ones I had already been sent - still missing the direction switch. So I emailed them again and got an immediate phone call, confirming as I expected that the design had been changed, they no longer had stocks of the old ones, I had been told in error that they could send me the old style ones, etc. So I pointed out that they were being a bit naughty not updating the two (at least) webpages that still showed the old design and even described in detail the function of the direction switch that is no longer there. She agreed that it should be changed. I think I might have another look in a month or so ... At least I get to keep 4 of the new-style switches, having only paid for two. Interestingly, the reason that she gave for the change was that Lego had found that users didn't really have a use for the direction switch. Unfortunately that seems to disagree with what @Mark Bellis said in the other thread, so that just sounds like bol.. oops I mean 'marketingspeak' PS Although I said above I would update the thread with pictures, it's not really worth it, it would be the most pointless game of 'Spot the Difference' ever ...
  8. With a bit more searching on Eurobricks I finally found the thread from March 2016 about this issue (http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/126624-new-powerfunction-switch-module/), and a separate short item attempting to bring it to the attention of the Ambassadors program (http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/126902-removal-of-reverse-switch-from-polarity-reverser-8869/), apparently without result . So apparently Lego changed the design in early 2016 and started issuing the new item without the direction switch, but as of April 2017 they still have not changed the picture on the Lego Shop (https://shop.lego.com/en-GB/LEGO-Power-Functions-Control-Switch-8869) or even worse, the Specifications page on the main Lego website which specifically describes the function of the direction switch (https://www.lego.com/en-us/powerfunctions/articles/8869-control-b71751d95f0a422da2838a91c9093874). I must admit I'm pretty disgusted by this. (Being new [again] to Lego, is this typical of how TLG behaves?) I started to draft a reply to Customer Services about it, but have decided to wait until they have done something about my order before I take it any further. When I receive the 'replacements' I will update this thread with details and pictures. In my original post above, I knew the date I was referring to was the copyright date - I (obviously mistakenly) thought that Lego might change the (C) date if they changed the design of the piece. Also, I was unsure whether the production date stamp on my two switches (21N6) referred to 2016 or 2006 (before I knew which way the change had been made I thought perhaps I'd accidentally been sent very old stock). I presume mine are in fact 2016 (I haven't been able to find out - does the letter 'N' in the production date stamp indicate anything?)
  9. I too strongly suspect this logo is a custom vector graphic (so that it can be scaled without losing detail) rather than the name rendered in a specific font (although the graphic design could well have been influenced by a particular font). I believe one reason it is often done this way is that it helps to protect a registered trademark, if the logo cannot easily be recreated using a standard font. Another reason in this particular case though is because of the unusual ligature 'ch', and the way the tails of the 'e' and the final 'c' are extended beyond where they would normally terminate in an italic font (even with kerning). The font DrJB refers to on the Rotring pens is based on that employed for the ISO lettering stencils that were used with those pens. The ISO font is similar to the Lego logo above in that it has 'rounded' ends (eg like Arial MT Rounded) as you would expect from the shape of the pen's nib. However the Rotring stencils and the ISO font they used specifically eliminated letter strokes joining at acute angles (to minimise the wet ink strokes bleeding together at such junctions). The Technic logo above has a couple of these in the 'h' and the ''n that would be rendered quite differently in the Rotring font. However, given the subject matter, it seems quite likely that the graphic designer of the Technic logo was specifically aiming for the 'technical drawing' feel of the ISO font. PS aeh5040, is this geeky enough for you yet?
  10. Well much to my surprise, Lego emailed me back within 20 minutes (even though it was > 21:30 here; they must have support people in the US picking up global emails I think), and have said that they will send me two of the switches as shown on the website. That's sort of what I was hoping for (with luck I may end up with 2 of each type), but I will wait to see what really turns up first - whether they still have got some of the old types in stock somewhere. There is nothing on the new order that they have created to show that the next two should be any different to the last two ... They didn't say anything about how it had happened either - whether they had changed the design, and if so why the website did not show the updated version. (I did wonder if my PC was showing an old cached version of the webpages but I've checked it on 3 devices and it seems they're definitely still showing a picture of the version with the direction switch, which is a bit naughty if they've changed the design.)
  11. I recently bought several PF items from the online Lego shop, including 2 of the Control Switches (8869). The advertised item on shop.lego.com looks just like the one on the Specifications page of the main Lego website (https://www.lego.com/en-us/powerfunctions/articles/8869-control-b71751d95f0a422da2838a91c9093874) which has a small black direction switch as well as the main large orange switch, and the webpage specifically refers to the direction switch. However, both of the switches I was sent are missing the black direction switch! Other than that, they look identical to the design of switch on the two webpages. I have emailed Lego to say I am not happy with this, but I also searched online, expecting to find that they had changed the design, but I found nothing about it. Does anyone know what is going on? Have I been sent very old stock (the date moulded on the bottom is 2007) perhaps from before the switch was added? Or have they recently changed the design to remove the switch, but sneakily not updated any of their own marketing pages to reflect this? I can easily envisage a situation where I would need to use the direction switch to get the desired result, so I'm definitely not happy that my switches don't have them.
  12. Jon61

    About 8878

    In addition to the points made above by Limga and Blakbird about the cost of the 8878 rechargeable box (UK£43), there is also the outrageous price that Lego charge for the official transformer required to recharge it (an extra UK£25). It's reasonable enough not to include the transformer with the rechargeable pack itself as some people may want more than one pack but only need one charger, but most people (like me) think the transformer is massively over-priced (even by TLC standards )
  13. Jon61

    Impossible LEGO

    I like a challenge! I've not tried this with real pieces, so I hope I've got this correct. I think this method is possible; it took me a while to work it out in my head. Perhaps someone with 6 unused 5x7 frames can test these instructions and let me know whether they work
  14. Well I'll go in a different direction to most other people Based on the above definition I have a grand total of: 1 ... spare part (a speed remote control that I bought on EBay to use with 42030)
  15. Jon61

    Impossible LEGO

    Well I know that other have worked out how to build the larger cube, and that the instructions have already been done somewhere, but as I couldn't find them from the links quoted above I thought I'd have a go at them myself. I also didn't have enough 'dogbones' to build it for real without disassembling 2 of my 3 Technic sets, so it was also a useful 3D 'thought experiment' for my brain (assisted by MLCad, which I've only just started using, so this was good practice on that too). In my theoretical build I used 18 blue 3L long pins - I assume the picture above is using the same part (#6558) but in black? For MLCad I took the rather unorthodox approach of using artificial colours, as it helped me see the symmetry in the pieces. So all the pieces in practice are either #6558 (18 of, blue/black) or #14720 (6 of, LBG) regardless of the colours in the graphic below: I think it should be much easier than suggested above to take this cube apart. You could grip the middle portion of each with pliers, but I think in practice the 'inboard' end of each pin is opposite an open pinhole in the adjacent frame, and so could be pushed out through that hole using an axle. E.g. the three pins shown in yellow (another reason to use false colours!) that are pushed up from below in step 7 of my graphic, can be pushed back down through the holes in the top frame (shown in light blue). Without having built it, I initially thought that once assembled 'legally' as shown, it might be possible to collapse the cube further by carefully and simultaneously pushing on all 6 faces, thereby taking up the slack middle 1L in each of the 3L pins. However, thinking about it more and experimenting using MLCad, this is NOT possible, as the 5L length of each dogbone effectively keeps two of the adjacent dogbones a fixed distance apart.