Lego_GBC_NL

Thanks!

My latest GBC module

Back in 2020 Akiyuki published his video of a LEGO cart with a mechanical direction switching mechanism. I liked the idea and some months ago I decided to build a complete GBC module around this particular mechanism. Later on I added a few more mechanisms by other GBC designers and ended up merging 5 modules into 1. Hope you enjoy the video! :-)

Thanks @HRU_Bricks & @9v system for answering some more questions and more importantly for sharing your experience/knowledge! I'm good to go when it comes to the air compressor (will borrow one from a colleague), the EV3 cables (have some original Lego cables/20/25/35/50cm and bought a few custom cables/1m from a Dutch eBayer) and the pneumatic hoses (have +/- 15m of original Lego hose/transparent). Concerning the inlet/outlet ports: I guess I indeed need to experiment/play around a bit to find out which hose needs to be connected to which port... testing the air flows it is... bit of trial & error I guess... For sure I'm gonna connect all pneumatic parts while building as you both strongly recommend it, but to be able to do that, I still need to know the correct way/order how to connect all pneumatics. Wonder if someone is willing to verify the scheme and hopefully confirm it looks correct (perhaps not the inlet/outlet ports used, but at least some confirmation on the main connections/order of pneumatic parts within the air circuit, what's connected to what in general...). All pictures/videos available were not clear enough to be 100% sure... Oh.. and @HRU_Bricks, the scheme is made manually in Excel and Paint, didn't use any fancy tool and have no experience whatsoever with these kind of schematics So could be that things are not depicted in the best possible way...

Thanks @HRU_Bricks for providing some more answers, almost there! Will sum up what I have so far 1. Air compressor => OK - confirmed the one I'll borrow will do, overkill, but will preset the output pressure on the external compressor to 1.5 - 2 bar (max) 2. Pneumatic hoses => OK - will use the standard LEGO ones (+/- 9 to 10 meters needed). Have them in lengths of 1 and 5 meters, so should be long enough for the BC 3. Best timing to connect all hoses => OK - will try adding them already while building, but this makes the pneumatic scheme even more important (question 7), will get to that later in this post... 4. Version of PDF instructions => OK - guess both versions will do the job, in case of uncertainties will indeed use Jeroen's Stud.io file to check (PDF instructions are just easier\more user friendly I would say...) 5. Version of 8 tooth gear => OK - will use the one w/o friction (#11955). Both #10928 and #11955 exist in red and it's impossible to see in all pics/vids/instructions which one is used. Both Rebrickable & the Stud.io file mention #11955, so I guess that one's correct. 6. Length EV3 cables => stll not sure what the optimal length of the 8th EV3 cable should be (besides 3*1m + 3*50cm + 1*converter cable), but will make sure I'll have at least one spare EV3 cable available (25/35/50cm) 7. Pneumatic/electric scheme\layout => OK for the electric scheme. No need to make a pneumatic scheme yourself, was just wondering/asking if someone had something prepared already when building the BC some years ago. I gave it a try myself and prepared a scheme based on all pictures, videos, Jeroen's leaflet and some common sense (I hope ). Will share the scheme at the end of this post. 8. EV3 program file => OK - explained by Jeroen, know which file to use and what the different programs do 9. Long custom EV3 cables (1m) => still not sure if my assumption is correct (the 3*1m cables are supposed to be used for the light sensors in ports 1 & 3 (ball detection & pneumatic switches) and the motor in port B (M Servo Motor for the linear mvmnt of the gripper). Can anyone confirm pls? The rest of the EV3 parts (sensors & motors) seem close enough to the EV3 brick to be able to use a 35/50cm cable to get them connected. 10. Rubber bands and pneumatic T-pieces => OK - when preparing the pneumatic scheme I also got a good view on these pieces, so I do have a decent estimate now 11. Pneumatic hoses ≥1m => OK - clear answer, there are none (so cutting hoses of 1m\5m should do the trick to get all needed lengths) 12. Conversion/extension cables 9V > PF => OK - armed with 20/50cm conversion/extension cables 13. Pressure regulator => so the pressure regulator (Over Pressure Relief Value) and pressure switch are two different things and work (more or less) independently? Concerning the pressure regulator (to see if I get this right): when building the BC the small linear actuator needs to be turned/wound up (just a little bit) via the red ball joint so the linkage attached (liftarm+spring) will move forward and the black antenna moves closer and closer to the blue pneumatic hose connector, resulting in a fully closed air circuit/sealed air system (thanks by the way for the hint about the very small piece of hose, quite difficult to see!). When the air compressor starts providing air into the BC and everything is fine (meaning the air pressure is not too high) nothing will happen to the pressure regulator and it doesn't need to be touched anymore (antenna won't move and can "take" the pressure). ONLY in case the pressure builds up and gets too high at some point (let's say: air pressure > pressure on the spring), the pressure regulator will pop open (antenna popping out) and the pressure is released (as a safety measure in order not to damage anything). I assume in that case adjustments need to be made (something built/connected incorrectly or too much air pressure coming from the external compressor?). Is that about it? Coming back to the most important question for me personally (question 7). Below is the pneumatic scheme/layout I prepared last weekend based on all pictures, videos, Jeroen's leaflet and some common sense Enlarged version of the pic is available on my Bricksafe page: https://bricksafe.com/pages/Lego_GBC_NL/lego-gbc/gbc-ball-cleaner-akiyuki Please don't pay any attention to the exact position of things or the length/route of the hoses. Was too complicated to get this depicted correctly in one overview. My goal was to show every single pneumatic part (including all T-pieces) as well as all hoses and the way they're connected. Air circuit is divided into a main circuit (blue) and 4 sub-circuits going from the valves to the several cylinders. Start of the circuit is at the bottom left corner. Hope I got it all right, really curious! Would be nice and much appreciated if the BC experts could have a look at this and if I could get some feedback to see if I'm on the right track Also, I especially wonder if the hoses in my scheme are all connected to the right ports on the valves & cylinders. Relates to my last question asked last Thursday: As the "Set timing" and "Initializing" programs prepare the pneumatic switches before running (adjusting timing & setting correct start position), does this mean the way the hoses are connected from the valves/switches to the cylinders doesn't matter, considering this will be adjusted anyway after building (but before running at full speed)? I know the air inlet port will be the middle connection on the valve, but for the air outlet ports (A+B below), is there a fixed way to connect the hoses to ports 1+2 on the cylinder? Or, when connecting the hoses, this is of no importance as the timing will be adjusted later on if needed (meaning there's not really a "wrong" way of connecting the hoses from valve to cylinder)? Thanks a lot for your support so far, I know I'm asking a lot, but as said before, like to be 100% prepared and have a good understanding of how the module works before starting the actual build!

@Juroen, thanks, that's clear! One more question about this if you don't mind (sorry if it's a question asked by a pneumatics newbie with little knowledge ). As the "Set timing" and "Initializing" programs prepare the pneumatic switches before running (adjusting timing & setting correct start position), does this mean the way the hoses are connected from the valves/switches to the cylinders doesn't matter, considering this will be adjusted anyway after building (but before running at full speed)? I know the air inlet port will be the middle connection on the valve, but for the air outlet ports (A+B below), is there a fixed way to connect the hoses to ports 1+2 on the cylinder? Or, when connecting the hoses, this is of no importance as the timing will be adjusted later on if needed (meaning there's not really a "wrong" way of connecting the hoses from valve to cylinder)?

@Juroen, I don't have that much experience with LEGO pneumatics, so to me all those hoses look like a difficult maze Always like to be fully prepared and understanding a complex module like the BC before starting to build. OK, I'll use the EV3 program file on your Bricksafe (“Set timing”, “Initializing” and “Running”). So the 5th program (Loop 05 - “Determine if balls are available”) isn't necessary to incorporate in the "Running" code? To prepare the module before running I simply run programs “Set timing” & “Initializing” first and then the 3rd program "Running" without "Loop 05 - “Determine if balls are available”? Is that it?

Thanks @Juroen, I'm still far away from starting the actual build, need to gain some more confidence first and I hope the answers to my questions will do that. Still quite some questions unanswered, but I'll take things step by step. Especially questions 7 (pneumatic scheme) and 8 (EV3 program file) worry me the most...

Thanks @HRU_Bricks for these clear explanations! This is helping a lot to understand the several pneumatic mechanisms that Akiyuki incorporated into the model, all so cleverly done! 2. I'm armed with +10m of Lego hoses as we speak... if I mess up cutting them too short, will buy extra Below is the link to the Dutch webshop I was referring to. They used to have a lot more pneumatic parts in stock, but unfortunately all nice stuff, like cylinders, pumps, valves, switches, manometers, air tanks are out of stock now and even completely removed from the website I believe. Luckily they still have some 1m/5m hoses available in different colors. https://www.brickshop.eu/lego-parts/pneumaticshtml.html 3. OK, so the pressure regulator (Over Pressure Relief Value) and pressure switch are two different things and work (more or less) independently. I totally get now how the pressure switch works! Concerning the pressure regulator (to see if I get this right): when building the BC the small linear actuator needs to be turned/wound up (just a little bit) via the red ball joint so the linkage attached (liftarm+spring) will move forward and the black antenna moves closer and closer to the blue pneumatic hose connector, resulting in a fully closed air circuit/sealed air system (thanks by the way for the hint about the very small piece of hose, quite difficult to see!). When the air compressor starts providing air into the BC and everything is fine (meaning the air pressure is not too high) nothing will happen to the pressure regulator and it doesn't need to be touched anymore (antenna won't move and can "take" the pressure). ONLY in case the pressure builds up and gets too high at some point (let's say: air pressure > pressure on the spring), the pressure regulator will pop open (antenna popping out) and the pressure is released (as a safety measure in order not to damage anything). I assume in that case adjustments need to be made (something built/connected incorrectly or too much air pressure coming from the external compressor?). Is that about it? Did this actually happen to you when you ran the Mindstorms/Akiyuki version? 11. Concernig the 1m EV3 cables: clear why they're needed (long distance, cable management etc.), but my question was more to get a confirmation that the 3 long EV3 cables are used for the light sensors in ports 1 & 3 (ball detection & pneumatic switches) and the motor in port B (M Servo Motor for the linear mvmnt of the gripper). The rest of the EV3 parts (sensors & motors) seem close enough to the EV3 brick to be able to use a 35/50cm cable to get them connected. PF motors via the converter cable (+ extension cables I suppose). No more questions for now (13 was already enough I guess ), but for sure other questions will come to me later on... THANKS again and I like your schemes with the arrows! Very helpful!

Hi @HRU_Bricks, yes I checked out your version of the BC as well, also designed very successfully indeed, but as far as I know there's no instructions available for that one and personally I do not own any Lego Boost equipment. Have lots of unused PF & EV3 parts in stock and with such a complex build, some decent step-by-step building instructions seem vital. Also trying to build the BC without ordering (lots of) new parts. Thanks for answering a few of my questions! 1. Only Lego compressor I've built is the Quanix one (with 8 cylinders) and according to some GBC builders, like Jeroen, it's not sufficiant, so I'm not even gonna try Yes, the compressor I mentioned most likely is overkill indeed, but it's free and if it will work I'm happy! 2. The online shop where I buy my Lego hoses sell them in lengths of 1 and 5 meters, is that really not long enough for the BC? Looking at all pictures/videos available I don't have the feeling there's any single piece of pneumatic hose >1m, but of course I haven't built it yet, so I can be wrong. See lots of those T-pieces everywhere, so the length of the hoses is reduces by them I would say. But this is why my question #11 is there 3. OK that's clear, the Hyundai compressor has 2 meters and apparently it's quite easy to reduce the output pressure from 8 bar to 1.5 - 2 bar. Thought Akiyuki built-in something clever for that, but seems logical to regulate the pressure before the air enters any Lego parts There's 1 Lego air tank included in the instructions, so that's also covered then. I'm afraid I still don't understand how the pressure regulator works. From the air inlet a direct connection is made to the blue pneumatic hose connector (part #99021), but there's no hose going out as on the other side there's this black 4L antenna. I would expect another hose going from the pressure regulator to the pressure switch on the other side of the BC... When/why is the red button of the pressure regulator supposed to be pressed and what happens if it is? How does the regulator let the program know the air is on and why wouldn't the program know this without the regulator... you see, lots of things I need to learn about pneumatics

For years the Ball Cleaner has been one of my favorite (GBC) modules and it’s still on my wish list. Was always quite hesitant to build it because of the external/3rd party air compressor that needs to be used (guess still no-one succeeded in creating a 100% Lego compressor that can do the job). Towards the end of this year I’ll be having the opportunity to borrow an air compressor from a colleague of mine, so I’m now reconsidering to give the BC a go afterall. I do have all the genuine Lego parts in stock, but after looking at all videos/files available, I do have some questions. I know it’s been a while since you built your version, but I hope @Juroen and/or @9v system are willing to help me out where possible (since you have both successfully built the BC ). 1. The air compressor I’ll be given the opportunity to use is the Hyundai 55762. Specs: 24 liters tank – motor power 750W – max. pressure 8 bar (more details/info in the link below). As I have absolutely no knowledge/experience whatsoever when it comes to using an external air compressor like this together with pneumatic Lego, would you say this one will be okay to use for the BC? Hope you can advice me a bit on this. Seems more or less the same type as Akiyuki uses. https://www.bol.com/nl/nl/p/hyundai-stille-59db-compressor-24-liter-8-bar-olievrij-low-noise-super-silent-deluxe-versie-incl-6-delige-hyundai-accessoire-set/9300000014688403/?bltgh=o3KLl0Zhte7IFP7aBs5LpA.tJ7K6EXSyB10G-3kBSJGkw_0_16.30.ProductTitle 2. In Jeroen’s leaflet with additional info it says the pneumatic hoses are customized non-Lego parts (+/- 10 meters needed). Will the BC not work with the normal/genuine Lego hoses? Are they not strong enough perhaps? I always buy my Lego hoses in lengths of 1 or 5 meters, so wouldn’t it be possible to use those original Lego hoses and manually cut them to get the desired lengths for the BC? 3. Is it possible/advisable/recommended to first build the whole module without all pneumatic hoses and electric wiring and add all that at the end of the build? Or better/easier to include all the hoses/wiring already during the building process? 4. When downloading the files some time ago, I saved 2 versions of the pdf instructions, one containing 333 pages and the other 302 (most likely one made by Jeroen and one by Aron). Is there any substantial difference between the 2 (content wise I mean)? Or are the instructions in the 333 pages version simply split into more building steps in order to ease the building process a bit? Was just wondering which of the 2 versions I should use (assume both are based on the same Stud.io file made by Jeroen). 5. In the parts list on Rebrickable it’s mentioned that the red 8 tooth gear is meant to be the version without friction (part # 11955). Is this correct (meaning the “normal” one with friction (part # 10928) won’t do)? 6. Concerning the EV3 cables, I read that 3 standard/original Lego cables can be used (50cm each) and 3 custom made cables are needed (100cm each). Besides that there’s one Mindstorms > 9V converter cable needed to connect the PF M & L motors. That makes 7 EV3 connections/cables in total, but all 8 connections on the EV3 brick are used for the BC (4 for the motors, 4 for the light sensors). Don’t I miss one EV3 cable? 7. Is there any pneumatic and electrical scheme available, besides the info given in the leaflet and everything visible in the several videos/pictures? I refer to a scheme showing all the hoses, pneumatic switches/valves, cylinders, T-pieces, air distribution block, manometer and air tank. Just an overview showing all the exact connections between those parts would be very helpful, but I guess such a scheme doesn’t exist and it’s just wishful thinking from my end J Well, just asking… I see SO MANY hoses floating around 8. Which EV3 program file is the final and correct one to use? I downloaded 2 versions, perhaps one by Akiyuki and one by Jeroen. The 2 versions look a bit different, so was wondering which program file you used in the end. Is the one available on Jeroen’s Bricksafe final (the one with programs “Set timing”, “Initializing” and “Running”)? What about the 5th program (Loop 05 - “Determine if balls are available”), that is shown on one of the pictures on Jeroen’s Bricksafe? Does this code still need to be added to the rest? Isn’t this already included in loop #04 of the EV3 program? 9. Is it correct that the long custom EV3 cables (1m) are used for the light sensors in ports 1 & 3 (ball detection & pneumatic switches) and the motor in port B (M Servo Motor for the linear mvmnt of the gripper)? 10. Do you roughly remember how many rubber bands and pneumatic T-pieces are used? Just an estimation as they’re not included in the inventory on Rebrickable. Looking at all pictures from Akiyuki & Jeroen, I guess the only sizes of rubber bands used are: white 2x2 (part x71), red 3x3 (part x37) and at least one green/blue 4x4 (part x89). 11. For the EV3 cables it’s mentioned we need 3 extra long ones (1m). Are also any pneumatic hoses ≥1m needed? Just to know the maximum length in case I still need to order extra hoses. 12. Port D will be used to connect the converter cable Mindstorms > 9V, but to be able to connect the Power Functions motors I assume we need 1 or 2 extra conversion/extension cables 9V > PF (20 or 50cm), correct? Just asking to be sure. 13. How does the pressure regulator underneath the inbox work? Do I set the external air compressor to maximum pressure (e.g. 8 bar) and then regulate the pressure needed for the BC to operate smoothly (approx. 1-2 bar) with Akiyuki’s built-in pressure regulator? Or should the external air compressor output less pressure (e.g. 2 bar only)? I think it’s a great, but difficult module to build, but I’m certainly up for the challenge! Sorry for the many and long questions, but I hope your answers will take away some of the concerns I’m currently having. Like to be prepared to the utmost before starting a complex build like the BC Hope you can help me out

Not LEGO GBC related, but still an Akiyuki masterpiece! Just uploaded a video showing my build of Akiyuki's amazing LEGO Axle Sorter AS-L40A (originally designed in 2013). Massive build, +/- 6.5k parts count, great building experience, huuuuuge and heavy model, nice techniques from the master himself! Really enjoyed building this one.

Just uploaded an upgraded version of the Catch & Release GBC module by Akiyuki\Carson on my YouTube channel. Carson's version was the direct inspiration for me to build this GBC module. Really like the idea to organize the grabbers in line, so each ball will go through all 4 of them instead of being picked up by only 1. Expanded Carson's version by doubling the number of grabbers and made some MODs. My 1st version from 2022 was kinda dark and boring in terms of color scheme, so made some MODs and decided to pimp it up a little. The 4 grabbers are now red, white, orange and yellow.

Took 128 extra pictures of the module this evening and just uploaded them to my Bricksafe page (https://bricksafe.com/pages/Lego_GBC_NL/lego-gbc/mangle-rack-gbc-akiyuki---2021/extra-pictures). It's a big module, so it was difficult to capture everything clearly and I'm afraid some parts are quite dark (especially the black elements), but I did my best To provide more details I would need to take the module apart and at this point in time that's a no-go Hope it helps! If any questions, please let me know!

Thanks! Yeah sure, I can upload some more pictures, but I'm not entirely sure... are you referring to the scissor lift with alternator/ball splitter or to the part with the yellow elbow/macaroni pieces just before the balls enter the mangle rack mechanism? Not sure what I should see as the feeder in my module