Eurobricks Knights
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Horry

  1. Horry

    Rocks & Shoals

    Attackharrharr von HMSCentaur auf Flickr Heyho folks! Some of you may remember a lengthy and interesting discussion about possible LEGO pirate games beside the legendary Evil Stevie Game. We made a game out of it and had a nice and successful beta-test with Tazmaniac and Capt.JohnPaul here in the Pirates-forum. The basic ida of the game is to test your MOCs out against other MOCs in a turn-based battle until one side sinks the other side. If the ship-yard crew is okay with this I'd like to start another match in order to further improve the game and to see whether Rocks & Shoals would be of any interest to the users. If you think this is too much trouble, I'll do further testing in private My question to all of you is: who would like to participate in another game? The new rules will make use of a better weight-consideration, boarding rules and new maps.
  2. Horry

    [Tutorial] Cannons

    [pid][/pid] This tutorial has been sitting on my computer for ages and I only now decided to finish it and along with another project, end my micro-dark age. It’s about a piece of equipment almost as important as the ship itself: the European cannon. Please notice that while I do know a good deal about Asian Cannon and early Asian rockets I will not cover them in this tutorial! PART I – basics, material and history Cannon (from lat. Canna - “reed”) are projectile-launching weapons that were first used in the Far East and came into use in Europe during the High Middle Ages. It was the first gunpowder weapon on battlefields to be used at a large scale with effectiveness above that of a psychological impact. Although Cannon greatly varied over time and purpose in shape, composition, material, carriage and performance they still shared very distinctive features over hundreds of years. Cannon are always tubes made of metal that are mounted on a carriage (“Lafette”) and are almost always loaded via the muzzle. A gunpowder charge will be embedded between the thickest part of the cannon (the reinforce) and a cannonball. It is ignited by a fuse or a mechanism that is accessible via a small vent. The standard projectiles of cannon first were made out of stone, later metal. It quickly became common to classify cannon according to the type of projectile they could fire rather than the appearance of the actual cannon itself. A 12 pounder (a cannon capable of firing cannonballs that weighed 12 pounds) could look completely different in comparison to another 12 pounder just because one of them was being used on a ship and the other one on the field. Cannon came into use in Europe around the late 13th and early 14th century. The first major war to feature effective Cannon made of iron was the Hundred Year War. Most cannon, however, were being made from bronze at the time as this was a much more durable and reliable metal. With the propagation of improved cast iron (especially in England) in the late 15th century the European cannon got yet another material improvement and by the late 18th century almost all cannon were made from cast iron. European vessels were being equipped with cannon from at least 1330. However, designated battleships with sails came not into use until the early 16th century when the English Navy started constructing men-of-war specifically built for carrying large amounts of cannon. The first recorded purposely built gun deck was built around 1500. Until this time it was much more common to refit merchant ships like carracks, cogs, galleys and caravels into war ships if the need arose. Around the middle of the 16th century most European armies began standardizing their cannon size according to the aforementioned weight of the projectiles. Improvements in the gunpowder used and the quality of the structure of the bore allowed for smaller cannon that were actually mobile and allowed for much quicker advancing armies that could still fire over great distances. This development of siege possibilities also greatly changed the methods employed to construct fortifications (see the development of fortifications in this tutorial). While details such as transportation (limbers), aiming (trunnions) or better projectiles (cast iron projectiles) continued to increase the effectiveness of cannon they remained largely the same during the next few hundred years with the only notable exception being the mortar – a cannon designed to fire projectiles over large distances and send them across fortifications. Major change to the cannon was brought by the massive development of men-of-war in the 18th and the 19th century. The introduction of the carronade in the late 18th century supported quicker and more manoeuvrable ships: smaller, lighter Cannon being able to deliver 32 pound ordnance on short range that was able to virtually pulverize the hull of an enemy ship. Gunlocks drastically improved the speed, safety and accuracy of quickly loaded, hot cannon. In addition to improved accuracy and firing rates, new ordnance types (shrapnel shots and reliable explosive shots) brought new elements into field- and sea battle. The introduction of steel-Cannon in the mid-19th century made way for the demise of the classic cannon: although still being used until the early 20th century the cannon would eventually be replaced by steel-made field artillery and recoilless guns. PART II types and calibres This part of the tutorial will focus on cannon that were in use after the ordnance classification system had been well established. While a lot of basic cannon types will be described keep in mind that there have been well over 70 types of cannon in Europe alone and hundreds of specialized cannon series. Sakers - 4–7 pounders Sakers were relatively light cannon used en masse during the 16th century. Made from bronze they were designed for long range attacks against moving armies or fortifications. The early models still used stone ammunition but all later versions used the more modern iron ammunition. Sakers were very heavy and relied on a stable and heavy carriage due to the immense recoil the large gunpowder charge caused – thus they were used from fixed positions and were not moved during a battle. Culverins – 14-20 pounders Also used on sailing ships (merchant ships, men of war) Culverins were used from the middle to late 15th century until the early 17th century. They were made from bronze and featured a very long and thin bore (up to 5 meters) that could fire very different types of cannon balls. It was one of the first cannon to be successfully mass-produced and was able to fire cannon balls made from iron. A culverin was operated by between three and five gunners and was normally being transported on the mobile carriage with or without a limber. Mortars – 82 – 180 pounders Also used on sailing ships (bomb ketches) Mortars were used from the middle 15h century till the end of cannon. They featured a very short and large bore that looked more like a bowl than a barrel. Mortars had a high trajectory allowing for large range and the possibility to attack an enemy behind a fortification. The low velocity of the projectile also allowed for explosive rounds to be used. A mortar could be operated by two to four gunners and was very immobile due to the immense weight of cannon and ammunition. Full cannon – 42 pounders Also used on sailing ships (ships of the line) Full cannon were used during the 17th century and were normally made from cast iron. If they were to be used on a ship the preferred material was bronze in order to keep the weight lower. They were designed to take down heavy fortifications and to engage slowly moving targets at long range. On ships they were used on the top battery deck as the back bone of close range broadside attacks. Full cannon were immobile on the field and considered to be impractical due to large gunner crews of 5 to 9. Demi cannon – 32 pounders Also used on sailing ships (ships of the line, frigates) Demi cannon were used in the 17th century as a semi-accurate and close range cannon that was usually made from cast iron. The cannon required a gunner crew of at least 4 persons and would normally be used to attack advancing armies with regular shots and grapeshot attacks. Demi cannon were largely immobile due to their weight. Minions – 5 pounders Also used on sailing ships (all types of ships) Minions were the weapon of choice for close range anti-personnel attacks in the field and on ships. The small cannon was used from the 15th century till the early 18th century and could be seen as a “big brother” of the swivel gun. Minions could be carried by mobile carriage or by the gunner crew that could be 1 to 3 people. Minions were considered to be highly mobile weapons that could easily be used to defend advancing points during a battle. Howitzer cannon – 12-24 pounders Howitzers were a hybrid between regular cannon and mortars, being used from the late 17th century till the end of the age of sail. The Howitzer was mobile and could be quickly adjusted to various angles, making it a somewhat inaccurate but fast and flexible siege weapon. The Howitzer could fire a great variety of different ammunition, making it efficient in use against fortifications and army formations. A Howitzer was being operated by a gunner crew of three to 6 persons, depending on the size and the purpose of the Howitzer. Howitzers were mobile but larger versions could be difficult to move during a battle. Carronade – 6-42 pounders Mainly used on sailing ships (all types of men of war) The carronade was an immensely popular naval cannon presenting the complete range of cannon sizes. A short bore and a smaller charge chamber would fire a low velocity cannon ball with a short effective range. The low speed would damage the hull of the enemy and the deck behind it much more than high velocity ammunition. The carronade was being used from the late 18th to the late 19th century. While the short range did only allow for passing fights the high speed of the reloading process, the devastating damage and the small amount of gunners (2 to three) needed made it a perfect cannon for fast ships or ships of the line. PART III carriages, casemates and additional equipment As diverse as the cannon types were as diverse was the equipment used with them. Carriages featured large or small wheels, four or two wheels and very often no wheels at all. They would normally be transported with or on limbers that was also used to carry ammunition, cleaning equipment, aiming aids and so on. A single Culverin with equipment could need up to 4 horses to be transported. Many cannon featured different styles of trunnions that could be used to change the firing angle by adjusting the height of the muzzle. Cannon were also used in fortifications. They were often positioned on the top or within casemates. These cannon could feature very innovative carriages that were designed specifically to be able to quickly adjust the firing angle in order to compensate for the inability to move the cannon. Thank you for reading all the way down here! No go enjoy the lxf-file on cannon in LDD!
  3. Horry

    Mortar Barge Artillery

    A great design! The mortar looks stable and the MOC looks positively swooshable. It must be fun using that mortar and then experiencing some kind of action ride when the recoil sends it wildely through the water! The pirates will love it!
  4. Horry

    [Tutorial] Cannons

    Argh! This is what happens when you edit websites on the run. Thanks for noticing, I will correct that! Thank you! You can find my other tutorials in my signature - if you got other themes in mind - shoot!
  5. Horry

    [Flickr Find] Pirate Rock by David Frank

    The green could represent a copper plating. Regardless it is a great MOC and a very good find! I think there is more reddish brown in there than I have in my entire collection! I see some nice details in there. I also find this MOC to be more.. alive than many of his incredibly huge other panoramas. Fraslund seems to have a good eye for piratey stuff
  6. Heyho! I am preparing another of my cheesy imaginary licensed set series, this time for Borderlands 2 that I find to be highly suitable for MOCing! At least I get to use that good old yellow again for all that Hyperion loader bots! These are Deathtrap and Sabre Turret, the two summonable aids for the characters Gaige and Axton. I used them as a test run in oder to see if I could live up to the minifig-scale for this project. The turret is a teeny-tiny bit larger than in the game compared to the minifigs but I am quite satisfied in general. Both models can be upgraded with improvements, just like in the game - I left enough slots for most things. Please leave your comments and criticism! They are highly appreciated!
  7. Horry

    Full-hull French Frigate (WIP)

    Oh man, this is such an adorable project! I love every update of it. How do you want to stabilize the masts? Will there be a technic cross axle inside?
  8. Horry

    [Tutorial] Cannons

    Thank you very much! If there are other aspects on the topic you would deem making sense in this tutorial I can always expand. I fixed the error in the diagram, thanks for the find! And yes, the cannon are a bit large on some accounts. I stopped trying to scale them up to minifig-format some time ago as it drove me nuts - My final design focus was on the size of the cannon in correlation to each other. That's something I wanted to do anyway, thanks for the reminder! It can now be downloaded from the link at the bottom of the tutorial, have fun!
  9. Horry

    [Tutorial] Cannons

    Thank you very much for the kind replies and the blogging By the way, this tutorial is now finished! I would appreciate crisp feedback!
  10. Tutorial - Sailing ships – guidelines to tech specs and workings PART I –proportions and relations of dimensions on a sailing vessel A sailing ship is not a mass produced singular type of vessel. Even two ships of the same class and from the same yard will show different features - from the colour to the size. As constructing a sailing ship was a huge endeavour that took some years, newly learned techniques and individual wishes would heavily influence the appearance of the ships built. However, there are some basic guidelines for proportions and relations on sailing ships that should be taken into consideration if the ship should not end up like the Vasa did. In order to build your sailing ship MOC in a decent looking way, you will first have to determine what dimensions you want to use. Knowing that building an accurate sailing ship with Lego is a very difficult task, especially if it’s going to be in minifig-scale, you should first think about what type of vessel you want to use. For all sailing ships there are different specialisations that influence their shape, dimensions, rigging and equipment. A bulky cargo ship of the 19th century would be better suited to carry large quantities of supplies to India than a sleek frigate that is designed to intercept enemy ships. We can keep in mind that there are no exact figures on how a sailing ship HAS to be constructed. However, there are some guidelines and principles that will make your MOC looking good and functional. All figures and techniques depicted here are meant as recommendation, not as a rule The first principle is thinking about what type your ship should be. Will it be a frigate, a smaller ship or a mighty first rate ship-of-the-line? This will determine some of the very basic features your ship will have: armament, number of masts, the number of sails, function and the size of the crew. The second principle is that of determining the length. All dimensions on a ship will orientate on the length. The longer the ship is, the larger the broadside can be, the taller the height will be, the more masts it can carry and the larger those masts can be. A made main mast (a mast that would be constructed from different parts) for example would normally be roughly of the size of the length up to a three-mast vessel. The third principle is that of width vs. function: The broader a ship becomes the sturdier it will be and the more space it will give for cargo or guns. But a broad hull will also mean that the ship will be slower and lesser manoeuvrable. A good example for this principle would be comparing the hulls of a frigate and a first-rate-ship: The frigate is built for speed and manoeuvrability. She does not engage ships-of-the-line but will hunt down other frigates, sloops-of-war or merchant ships. The first-rate-ship will not have to hunt anyone. Battles of the line will come to the ship and speed will not be the most important thing for this type of vessel. A broader hull can permit more guns, more men to arm them and more stability. We can summarize: the form and the dimensions of sailing ships depend on their purpose. A light and small sailing boat that is designed to be able to plane will have a flat and small bow and a relatively broad stern. For this tutorial, however, we will concentrate on tall ships. For those ships the first question you will have to ask yourself: What shall be the length of the ship? The answer to this shall give you almost any information you need in order to design the rest of the ship. Please keep in mind that if we talk about the length overall of a sailing vessel we will use only the length of the main hull - that excludes superstructures, galleries, bowsprits and everything else that is not part of the immediate outer hull. terms von HMSCentaur auf Flickr Now, let’s toss in some facts and numbers: The length itself depends on the purpose of the ship. If it is a merchant ship that is designed for heavier seas you’ll need a more stable ship with a smaller length over all. If it shall be a fast clipper, the ship should become longer and get less width. If it is a man of war the length depends on the number of guns and the calibre who again are limited by the forces generated by a broadside and the weight of the cannons. A gun deck can normally hold around 17 to 20 guns (smaller calibres mean more guns) on each broadside. A gun port itself will normally be broader than higher or at least a square. Usually, there will at least roughly twice as much space between two gunports. The smaller the calibre of the used guns is the less space is needed in between the gunports. A gun deck is roughly two gunports tall but of course that may vary, too. The space between two gunports will vary and orientate on the heaviest calibre intended for this gunport when the ship was constructed. This would be especially important for ships-of-the-line that would have more than one gun deck. The lowest gun deck would feature the heaviest calibres and receive smaller cannons on the higher gun decks. However - the lowest gun deck will define the space between all gunports as the ship should have a chequered gunport alignment over the gun decks in order to keep the recoil energy from a broadside as much dispensed as possible. The ship will be much longer than it is wide. The (very rough) formula for the minimum beam (widest width) would be beam von HMSCentaur auf Flickr Keep in mind that the beam is subject to individual function of each vessel. A faster vessel might be fewer feet wide. A 1st rate ship-of-the-line will need more space on the gun decks. This formula will only work if LOA is measured in feet and will exclude the bow sprite. If you want to calculate this in meters, you'll have to replace the 1 with 0.3048. The deck planking will normally be as thick as the outer hull would be on the same level. The most often used formula to estimate the thickness of the planking would be thickness von HMSCentaur auf Flickr This formula will also work only if beam and LOA are measured in feet and the LOA will exclude the bow sprite. The outer hull will gradually become thinner towards the weather deck. The normal ratio would be around 30 % thinner on the weather deck itself compared to the bilge level. If the ship will feature a tumblehome (and almost all tall ships did) it will usually not appear much below the waterline. The tumblehome will also normally not exceed the lowest gun-deck armament – meaning that the upmost gun deck of a ship-of-the-line should not start more inboard than the guns placed on the lowest gun deck end. While it would be technically possible to do so while constructing the ship, the forces of a broadside can be better absorbed by a steeper tumblehome If the ship will feature a tumblehome (and almost all tall ships did) it will not appear much below the waterline and will not exceed the lowest gun deck – this means that the upmost gun deck of a ship-of-the-line will not start more inboard than the lowest gun deck starts. The sheer of the ship (meaning the curvature of the vessel’s main hull) will most often be the same at the stern and the bow in terms of the plain hull. The poop deck will normally feature higher superstructures than the forecastle. The more sheer there is on a vessel the more stable and the less manoeuvrable the ship becomes. The bow sprite should always exceed the stern sheer of a ship. PART II – the inner workings – how do they open a gun port? Sailing ships needed everything to support a crew of sometimes hundreds of sailors for many months at sea. Everything had to be accessible and easily storable at the same time, from food to light and air over water to cannons and hand weapons. Thus, sailing ships tended to be crowded, dark places with a lot of tricks to make even more out of everything. Some techniques can already be found in this tutorial, like the hanging tables that could be stored away. SteeringMechanism von HMSCentaur auf Flickr A fundamental mechanism was that of the steering wheel. From the beginning of seafaring until today, the basic principles of steering a ship haven't changed much. There is still a rudder that is operated by the helmsman. On sailing vessels of the 18th and 19th century, this rudder was operated through a steering wheel. The wheel was attached to two sturdy ropes that went directly through the lower decks under the wheel, accessing deck by deck via fairleads. They would be attached to a system of hoists (the number of hoists depending on the size of the ship) that would connect to the tiller. The tiller itself would lead directly to the rudder. The principle of an open hoist-system had the advantage of immediate problem analysis and instant accessibility, should the steering mechanism become compromised or damaged in any kind. It was also possible to easily destroy the steering mechanism, should the ship be boarded by enemies or should there be a mutiny on board. compartments von HMSCentaur auf Flickr Another important technique is compartmentalizing the ship’s sections. Especially on gun decks, the crew had to be able to access the whole area easily in order to make room for gun crews, ammunition resupplies, cleaners (usually boys that wiped away spilled gunpowder during battle) and officers or messengers that relayed orders. That was why walls usually were not fixed. They were attached to rails or brackets and could easily be dismantled. Then, they would be stored away by hanging them up to the ceiling or close additional entry hatches to lower decks – in that case, a wall became the floor. The different colours would also mark an area that was not fit for heavy weights (such as cannons). The larger a ship would be the more movable walls it would normally feature. A small ship like a ketch or a schooner would normally not carry cannons in the stern section of the broadside and hence not be forced to make room for the gun crews. Gunports2 von HMSCentaur auf Flickr If the deck was to be cleared, the gun ports would be opened by a small hoist-system that would be operated by the gun-crew of the respective cannon. The string would be fixed at a small hook at the ceiling. The gun would then be brought into firing position (the muzzle being outside the ship) by using the recoil hoists or recoil ropes. Recoil ropes would be attached to the carriage or the backmost part of the cannon itself. To efficiently operate a single cannon a normal gun crew of five to 14 (depending on the calibre) was needed. At least two men would reposition the gun and aim it, one person to reload the gun and one to sweep the gun for residual gunpowder and ram the gunpowder cartridge into the cannon. Additional personnel could restock ammunition and gunpowder, repair the carriage and help with repositioning. Davit von HMSCentaur auf Flickr Another part of the vessel used for all different kinds of operations would be the davit. The davit was used to transport dinghies and material alongside the outer hull into the ship ad off the ship. It was normally made out of two curved (boom) cranes that would extend over the ship’s hull and be attached to the outer hull itself (NOT the deck, as the forces used for lowering a dinghy could damage the deck planking). There could be portable davits that would be positioned wherever needed and fixed, more stable davits that could carry much more weight. A davit usually featured four independent ropes that could be operated by groups of two to six deckhands. This allowed for a very precise operation of the lifting/lowering process. The davit itself ensured the needed distance of the handled object to the hull (thus not damaging the hull). On US American ships it would be common to keep the dinghy secured to the davit if not used. Some davits utilised boom cranes that could easily haul the object directly onto the weather deck. Those kinds of davits would normally be used on ships of the line where the needed space for those davits was available. Cargo von HMSCentaur auf Flickr If the needed objects (apart from dinghies) were on board, they also had to be stored. A man of war usually had much less designated cargo areas in comparison to a merchant vessel. Almost the whole cargo (from water supplies to gunpowder) was utilized to stabilise and balance the ship, thus increasing manoeuvring capabilities in combat. So, every available space on the ship had to be capable of hosting cargo. That was also accomplished by a very flexible and innovative system of compartmentalisation. Many rips, bulkheads, stringers and girders featured cleats and fairleads. They could be used to construct little “shelves” made of nets and wooden beams alongside the hull. The cargo would be stored in those shelves. It would often be an indicator of the length of the mission of a ship, how much of the outer hull could be seen behind the shelves. If the nets were full of casks, the ship had just resupplied. If there was plenty of hull planking to be seen, the ship had been on the open sea for quite some time. PART III locations – where to place your stairs and capstans To announce it in advance: There is no definite position of any part on a sailing ship. Every vessel had a different final design. Refitting a frigate to a troop transport for example could make a considerable percentage of the rigging obsolete and thus many capstans and hoists would be removed during the refitting process. But there are certain areas where our equipment would NOT go. The Ship’s wheel would normally not be positioned behind the mizzen mast in order to avoid having three or more rigged masts in front of the helm. Additionally, the mizzen mast could provide more cover for the commanding officers during a fight as the attack on the stern would be a popular method. In addition, the hoist system could be attached to the mast itself below deck, relieving the outer hull off the forces of the steering process. The wheel would also not be placed too far forward as the resulting length of the ropes below deck would result in slower response times during manoeuvres and bear a higher potential for interfering with the activities below deck. On a ship-of-the-line the ship’s wheel would often be placed before the aft well deck, often providing a roof for the helmsman. It would be normal to place the ship’s wheel directly next to stair leading below deck. In the case of a damaged steering mechanism the helmsman could easily access the lower decks and investigate the cause of the malfunction. Speaking of stairs: The steep and small stairs leading below deck would normally be placed at least on the forecastle and the aft well deck. They could normally be sealed by gratings and featured reinforced frames around the access in order to compensate for the structural weakening such an opening would cause on the deck. The following stairs to lower decks would normally be placed on the opposite side and not directly below – this guaranteed easier transport of material up and down the stairs and prevented crewmembers from falling all the way down should they stumble. They would often have massive railing in order to make the stairs better defendable should the ship be boarded by enemy forces. Stairs would often define different gun deck sections that were run by independent gunner groups. They would normally be orientated on the sections of the main hull (middle deck, forecastle, poop deck, etc.) On ships-of-the-line there would often be two stairs placed dead level on the portside and the starboard side. Capstans and hoists that would be reserved for the mast rigging would normally be placed behind the masts, not in front of them. This added to the structural stability of the masts that would receive all the force of the wind from behind. Rigging and hoists that would go abeam of the ship would normally be attached to the main beams directly under the ceiling. The deck planking itself was used only for smaller suspensions like lamps and hammocks. Crow nests would normally be positioned at the end of one mast section (remember, masts of tall ships would not be in one peace but combined mast-segments). This provided a good access point for repairs. Masts would be positioned according to the type of ship constructed. The number and positions of some different types of fully rigged ships can be seen in this tutorial. Different positions of locations below deck like the gunpowder magazine and the galley can be found in this tutorial.
  11. This tutorial has been revised updated - it is now available again and features all asked corrections.
  12. Horry

    The promotion of Admiral Croissant

    congratulations, Admiral! A much deserved position for you to gain. I'll be feasting on croissants tommorrow morning to your honour!
  13. Horry

    Old member new beginnings

    Welcome back, then! Have fun here
  14. Horry

    Hello all

    Hi there, welcome to EB! And don't forget the pirates while visiting the guilds of Historica
  15. Horry

    MOC: Top Sail Schooner, HMS EMERALD

    I really like the SNOT hull and the fact that you're not using prefab-hull parts - we don't see this here too often! How stable is this construction method in terms of lifting and swooshing, if I may ask?
  16. Horry

    Search Questions

    Actually I'm pretty sure that this happened with the normal search function - I'll try to keep an eye on the search functions I use. If nothing happens, I'll be happy as hell!
  17. Horry

    Search Questions

    heyho! As a news scout for the pirates blog I have to use the search function regularly. Since the board-update, the search function randomly gives out no search results where there should some, claiming that there are "no results" - for example: I searched for myself a few minutes ago and the search gave no results for Horry - now, everything works as it should - what am I doing wrong? I tried this on three different computers, always firefox and windows 7 and one google chrome test - everything with the same results - it feels a little bit like it's dependent on some kind of time interval instead of a system problem.
  18. Horry

    [WIP] HMS Baratang

    I've put the updates in the first post! I finally managed to do a bow to my liking that's quite stable! The hull is as good as finished, now.
  19. Horry

    [WIP] HMS Baratang

    Hello dear folks! When I stumbled upon Sebeus' experimental "Organic Ship building" technique I was quite intrigued. So I started thinking about it. Then I started buying bricks. And now I'm building a new vessel! The HMS Baratang will be a bomb ketch of the late 18th century. I tried a few things and came out with this solution for the outer hull that makes me quite happy! So far it's a bit moving-happy but this can be easily fixed by adding more fixation coming from the weather deck. Tell me what you think! And give Sebeus a big thank you for the idea UPDATE 16.09.12 Complete 02 von HMSCentaur auf Flickr Bombarde02 von HMSCentaur auf Flickr Bombarde01 von HMSCentaur auf Flickr Bow 03 von HMSCentaur auf Flickr Outer hull 02 von HMSCentaur auf Flickr Outer hull 01 von HMSCentaur auf Flickr Inner hull 01 von HMSCentaur auf Flickr
  20. Horry

    Rocks & Shoals

    Sorry, I only noticed your reply now! prefabs are considered to be not built below the waterline. 76 tons would indeed be a light-weight and might explain the low speed. If you would give your measured specs I will check it out.
  21. Horry

    [WIP] HMS Baratang

    Sir, this's supposed to be a ketch, Sir! (I'm lying, this was a fully rigged before. We used the foremast to fire up the galley again!)
  22. Horry

    [WIP] HMS Baratang

    Thank you all! I still haven't found a way to do the bow to my liking - I might end up with the "traditional" method constructing it - input on this matter is highly appreciated. Here are some updates! Stern 00 von HMSCentaur auf Flickr Outer hull 04 von HMSCentaur auf Flickr Deck 02 von HMSCentaur auf Flickr Deck 01 von HMSCentaur auf Flickr Stern 01 von HMSCentaur auf Flickr Complete 01 von HMSCentaur auf Flickr
  23. Horry

    [MOC] Payback Day

    Yay, I build funny explosions! Thank you very much!
  24. Horry

    [MOC] Payback Day

    [pid][/pid]218B After they had buried Edwards, the three marines moved on. They were determined to do as much damage to the enemy as possible while heading back for the coast. The house was used as a gunpowder depot - probably commandeered by the enemy and owned by civilians. Lieutenant Harrison did not flinch for a second. They set the fuse and took cover under the overhang... total01 von HMSCentaur auf Flickr Lunte01 von HMSCentaur auf Flickr detail01 von HMSCentaur auf Flickr total02 von HMSCentaur auf Flickr
  25. Horry

    [MOC] Payback Day

    Thank you all for your kind comments! I'm very happy with the effect as it was a nightmare to build - it fell apart multiple times until I reconsidered the structure of the supports.