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About nick97

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  1. As a lot of people already mentioned it is very hard to pick only 6 out of 61 entries (not counting my own entry). My strategy was to take out the cars I didn't like, what left me with still 20+ cars to chose from. After scrolling through the topic twice again, I got to the next list: 59: 10 29: 6 41: 4 7: 3 47: 2 9: 1 Well done everybody and good luck. I wish I could have voted for more than just six
  2. 44. Amphibious car Functions: HoG Steering Propellors driven by rear wheels Removable body, to change from boat to car Simple interior whit steering wheel (not working) Pictures: The car underneath the boat, a pick-up truck: Chassis before building the body: Topic:
  3. Hey all, When reading about this contest I came up with some cars I would like to build. Sadly all these cars wouldn't fit the size limit after calculating the scale and size it would become. So I went scrolling down the information topic to see how strict this rule is. Then I read a small discussion about a next contest, If I'm right it was something like: 'build anything except a car'. And then there would be questions about 'Can I build a boat on wheels?'. And this is where I got the idea for this contest. Top Gear had an amphibious car challenge twice and I wanted to replicate something like that for this contest. I didn't want to make it to hard to build one of them, so I decided to build a 'Toybota', A Toyota Hilux with an outboard motor. But soon I found I'm not good in building small and goodlooking cars, even a simple pick-up. So now I've build my own amphibious car not based on a real vehicle. It is a modified pick-up truck that can be used as a transport boat or tugboat. The base of my car is a modified pick-up. As you can see in the next pictures it isn't a very good looking car, but with a story. It is supposed to be an old car, some bodywork panels have already been fallen of or have been removed to fit the body for the boat. The body for the boat is made of 4 panels, which are easy to place and remove. So during summer it is a boat and during winter it is just a car. Transport position to fit size limits: I do admit it doesn't look completely as my own idea. The whole boat actually looks similar to 42064. As I own that set and I love the color, there was a chance it would look similar. See bricksave for more pictures:
  4. Hey all, As I mentioned in this topic some time ago, I'm currently building a Herder One. And now it is time to give it its own topic. Some info about Herder first. Herder is a dutch company specialized in ditch cleaning. They have a range of different mowing arms and attachments for cleaning ditches, but they also produce flail mowers en stumpcutters. As attaching mowing arms to standard tractors is becoming more difficult, Herder developed a vehicle with a mowing arm already attached. As the vehicle is build around the mowing arm, it is for example better balanced than a tractor and has a better view to the arm. The vehicle Herder developed is called: Herder One. A few years ago I read about it in a magazine, where they showed the prototype for the first time. I've read the article over and over and took a very close look to the pictures as this was the only information avaible at that time. About the vehicle: The Herder one has four wheel drive and three steering modes: front, four wheel and crab. Suspension only on the front axle. Front hydrolics for attaching a mower and a rear hitch for attaching a trailer. Cabin rotates for better view on the ditchmower. The Lego version: My Lego version is scaled approx 1:16. It also has four wheel drive and three steering modes, all controlled using an S-brick.The first version had suspension on the front axle, like the real machine, but it takes a lot of space in the chassis and it made the chassis a bit weak. Therefore the second version doesn't have front suspension. Also present is front hydrolics and cabin rotation, both manually. Rotating the mowing arm using the S-brick. Controlling the arm is done manually, pneumatic switches are under the hood. Pneumatic pump is motorized. Pictures: The next pictures shows the second verison without the motors for the arm and pump. In the back (left) the remains of the first version. Next pictures with the motors: The other side already has the turntable for the mowing arm And some pictures of the first version: And what it looked like a few days ago: Hope you like it, comments are welcome I want to and this post whit a question. In the first verion I used pneumatic hose from some original Lego sets, none of them were cut to fit. For this second verion I need to to buy hoses so I can cut them in the right size to fit the model perfectly. I do prefer to have them in dark grey, like the older ones from Lego, as these would look better on this model than the newer shiny black ones from Lego. So can anyone help me finding good hoses that aren't to expensive?
  5. Sorry for very late response. You're right, they need to have different tire sizes. If Lego would just make a smaller (or bigger version), building tractors would be much easier. But there are some Xylons where the front and rear tires doesn't differ much in size so they look as four in the same size. In which scale is your Fastrac? Both the Herder and the Xylon are around 1:16.
  6. Hello everybody, It's been a while since I posted (and read) something, but this topic will change that. The last years I've been busy with school, found a great job, just recently finished school and some time ago I moved to my own place. Between all that I did have had some time to work on some lego projects, but lacked time to show them here. So this topic will show what I have been working on. I want to start with saying thank you to @Sariel for sharing the instructions for his Mustang. I build this great car and really like it. And the chassis wil be a base for future cars. So here is my version, in white with blue stripes. As you can see it isn't finished yet, I still need some missing parts. Next is a smaller model. Some of you might remember I build a small version of a Claas Xerion, in black. Some time ago I transformed it into an octopus. That's an Xerion with four mowing arms, to mow a ditch in one pass. It isn't the best looking thing I've build, but it looks good enough to me. Another small model I think I haven't shared is a model of a Challenger. It's a tracked tractor in approximately the same size as my Xerion. Then I have two projects, which probably get their own topic in the future. The first is a model of a Hardi Commander sprayer with a Fendt Xylon, both scaled 1:16. The sprayer features working boom (pneumatic/mechanic) and steering (mechanic). The axle is also suspended. The Fendt features steering, suspension, lights, rear hitch and pto. The pto is driving the mechanic part of the boom, pneumatics still by hand and steering the sprayer using hog. The sprayer in the next picture is already version 2. This one is completely rebuild en beter than the first one. Next is a complete rebuild of the tractor, to match with the functions of the sprayer. The second project I'm working on for at least more the two years now is a scaled model of a Herder One. This is a self propelled ditch cleaner/mower. It has drive and steering on both axles, including three steering modes (front, all and crab), all controlled using S-Brick. S-brick also controls turning the arm. A second S-Brick is used for controlling lights. The pneumatic functions in the arm are controlled manually (controls under the hood) and a motor powers the pneumatic pump. The current version shown in the next pictures features a suspended front axle, just like the real machine. I also started building a second version of the Herder One. Thanks to the planetary hubs I can make better/stronger axles. This version also won't have suspension, as it takes to much space. Now the servo used for steering the front axle fits above the axle, which leaves more space in the middle of the chassis. See bricksave for a few more pictures of these projects: This is it for now, please leave your comments/questions/tips. Kind regards, nick97
  7. I would like to add my thoughts about set 42083. Lego also has a license for Ford. They already made a modern Mustang and an F-150 Raptor. They also have a 2016 and a 1966 Ford GT set avaible The leaked catalog showed there will be a 1968 Mustang and the official dutch Ford site state there will be a new mustang in 2018. (That's 50 years later, same as with the GT set.) The official english Ford site also state there will be a new Ranger in 2019. So I'm hoping set 42083 is a Ford Mustang or a Ford Ranger
  8. 9. Bridge The pull-back motor is winded up using the wheel en released by pushing the orange button above it. Before pushing the button, I need to connect the motor to the lifting system. The first switch is to connect it to the clock-escapement to slow down the system. The second switch is to connect the motor to the lifting mechanism (see video below). These switched are placed as its hard to wind-up the motor with all systems engaded. Video: Discussion topic:
  9. nick97

    [TC13] bridge

    As you can see in my video I'm moving two levers before releasing the pull-back motor. The first lever is for the clock-escapement, as it stalls when turned backwards. The second lever is for the lifting mechanism. When winding-up the motor I have to turn the wheel 7 times around. If I wind the motor with the bridge lever engaged, the bridge lowers only half of its way.
  10. nick97

    [TC13] bridge

    In my last post (from 3 January) I said almost finished build, as I wanted to build a small bridge house beside the bridge. The bridge would be controlled in such a building in real life. But I haven't had much time to do that, so I skip it. It already looks good enough to me. I can easily explain all the colors with a little imagination Blue is water, black and white represents the road. Yellow represents wood, as it is a smal old bridge. I don't have brown in my collection so I used yellow for it. Grey represent concrete. This part of the construction got damaged and is rebuild with concrete to reduce the change of breaking down again.
  11. nick97

    [TC13] bridge

    Hey all, Here are some pictures of the (almost) finished bridge: I added a small clock escapement to slow down the pull-back motor. In the video you can see it is much slower now: And one with view of the clock escapement:
  12. nick97

    [TC13] bridge

    Thanks! I tried it, but this way the pull-back motor (I use) won't turn the axle at all. I did found another system to slow it down, a small clock escapement I've seen in this video: This system slows the motor down perfectly. After winding-up completely, the bridge raises much slower than without. I will take some pictures tomorrow.
  13. nick97

    [TC13] bridge

    Thanks for the great comments! Thanks for the advise. I'll try to figure out something tomorrow
  14. Hey all, At the last day of the year I want to show you my build for the bull-back contest. The motor is winded-up using the wheel and relaesed by pusing the axle beside it. From the motor to the clutch it is geared using a 12/36 and a 8/40 combination. After the clutch there is also a 12/36 reduction. If I turn the wheel 4 times around and release it, then the second 36 tooth gear turns almost half around. That is enough for lifting the road completely. I added the clutch for some kind of safety. In neutral I won't wind-up the motor when lowering the bridge. And a video: Next step is building something to slow down the motor. Comments are welcome!