iLego

Eurobricks Citizen
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Posts posted by iLego


  1. Thanks for the review. This is my MOC :classic:

    You are right it can be improved significantly ... a lot of parts are left out. I ran out of patience and son was asking to re-build the original vehicle from the set. He did not like my MOC truck :laugh:

    Regarding the photos, they are coming out distorted on mobile phones. They look ok on computer screens.

     


  2. Absolutely wonderful ! Economical in parts usage as well. It's amazing you have managed to create the likeness as well include so many functions with relatively few parts.

    You should post lots of pictures from all angles and let people try to reverse engineer it. This dog and it's descendants must live on forever !


  3. 14 hours ago, sirslayer said:

    @iLego The receiver is from China and its a clone of the IR ver1 by Lego and the clone ($10 USD with joystick) sports a wifi 2.4ghz with long range and the power is almost the equivalent to ver2 IR from Lego or maybe even better is the AA battery box is from Lego with a mix of rechargeable (on your own risk)  Nizn 1.8 volts AA batteries that punch fast and 1.5 volts Lithium AA batteries for endurance.  The 1.8 volts x 6 = 10.8volts is close to buwizz 11.1 volts so you'll get awesome performance...      

    Thanks for the info. I am tempted to try this out.


  4. 6 hours ago, sirslayer said:

    Cool !! I love those china's buggy motors!!!  I got myself 4 of them for only $60 USD .. and the performance is good enough where you can use your Lego battery box!!!  Check out how fast my mini truck with live axle suspension and the China's Monster motor!!

     

     

    That's cool ! Is this with regular PF battery box and V1 IR receiver ?

    I used to think that the buggy motor (or the clone monster motor) would need a driver with higher current capacity.

    It will be great if the monster motor works like this with regular Lego PF.


  5. Very cool MOC. Lots of functions in a compact model. Also, very playable being both RC and manual.

    And the gearbox is meaningful because you can see it's effect as it opens up the various functions.

    This is what I want from Lego, not monstrous 4000 part sets or supercars with gear crunching gearboxes for speed change.

    This is classic Technic and I really hope to see it on Rebrickable at some point in the future.


  6. 10 hours ago, Evans said:

    Another concern is when the wheels will have been quite used, and will be scratched, as when I buy used trains, or when the wheels will be old and used.

    That's the crux.

    Current wheels run fine when they become old. I very much doubt new wheels will have the same longevity.


  7. 10 hours ago, lambu76 said:

    Hi all, 

    I motorized this set by following the moc from racing brick, but I have a doubt. 

    When I move straight the car without steering the car is not going perfectly straight but it goes a bit on the right and I have to adjust with the steering. 

     

    I'm new with technic so I would like to know if it's normal with steering based in rocket/pinion due some play between bricks. 

     

    Thx

    It could be due to gear play, but it's more likely because of how the servo is connected to the pinion gear. If the servo is directly connected to the pinion (via an axle), the rack will be properly centered keeping the wheels straight. Alternatively, if you put one intermediate gear, then the pinion will be off by half a gear tooth, so the rack can not center. Summary is ... you have to connect the servo directly to the pinion, or via an even number of intermediate gears. (Odd number of intermediate gears will cause misalignment by half a gear tooth, which is enough to make the car drift slightly to one side).

    This is a problem with the PF servo since it has an absolute "zero" position. With new Control+, we can hopefully set the zero wherever needed.


  8. 3 hours ago, harpoon said:

    Plan B ... will use the IR receiver’s h-bridge to drive an external h-bridge. Just need to cut a PF extension cable in 2. Seems easy enough

    I tried that once, but stopped at the breadboard prototype. Used the Lego IR receiver's output PWM to trigger external H bridge. Used a transistor based circuit to switch 9V voltage level to 4.5V for both direction and PWM of external bridge. My external bridge supported upto 20V/6A, so I had some fun driving an L motor at higher voltages. But I chickened out at 15V. All Lego motors are too expensive for sacrificing to science :hmpf_bad: