Legownz

Eurobricks Vassals
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About Legownz

  • Birthday 02/06/2000

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  • What is favorite LEGO theme? (we need this info to prevent spam)
    Trains
  • Which LEGO set did you recently purchase or build?
    Star Wars Hover Tank

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    Legownz@gmail.com

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    United States

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  1. Legownz

    Custom Lego Train Axle Holders

    These look really cool! I'm sure there would be a demand for LBG for people looking to do Super Chiefs. Maybe red too?
  2. Funnily enough, I got the idea from a lot of official lego sets. Thanks! Thank you!
  3. When I was a kid, I used to watch a lot of Lego videos on Youtube, especially ones with trains. Due to having a lot of free time now, I have had time to go back and revisit almost all of the things I remember watching. One I remember watching excessively had some custom passenger cars in them and as a kid, I thought they were the coolest thing. So I finally decided to recreate them for myself. Here are some stills from the video I used as reference. I also just watched the video over and over again in slow motion to try and get details from the grainy quality. The first thing I did was recreate the exact same car into Stud.io. In combing over the footage, I found certain points where the creator likely ran out of parts and used camera angles to hide holes in the model, which I had never noticed before. So in my recreation, I obviously filled in the gaps when necessary. Here was the result. After finishing, I realized the flaws in the design. The train in the video never goes around a turn, and it would be impossible with this design as you couldn't have the bogies turn at all. The roof was permanently stuck on, which I personally wasn't a fan of, and I found the ends of the car rather plain. I made some alterations to the car, but not so much so that it would look like a different car/design entirely. (As an aside, I believe these cars are based on real rolling stock in Poland, where the video creator is from, but I don't know the specific name of them or anything like that. If you know more about this than me, please feel free to share and correct me in the replies) Anyway, here is the new revised design. It is on top, while the original is on bottom. So I reworked the bogies so they can spin freely and the "step" below the door now spins with the bogie. I added diaphragms to the end of the car and vents to the roof for more detail. Lastly, a layer of tiles were put in to make the roof removable. The car can also have a red scheme instead of the green to match the red car seen in the background of the video for less than 10 seconds. I was happy with the final result so I decided to order some parts. I wanted to keep the grey authentic throughout so I built the entire thing in old light grey, which was necessary for the train windows and the older style of the 1x3x4 doors with the solid hinge area. I also switched out the roof pieces to something more affordable than the 2x6 ones found in the Metroliner (part 2875). I also used the older style of buffer to keep with the feel and era of the source material. With parts on their way, I decided to tackle the "1" and "2" on the side of the cars. After looking at screenshots from the video, looking at some fonts, and asking my mother who is a graphic designer and knows a bit about fonts, I concluded they were most likely hand drawn. I really liked the original numbers though, as they were very unique in their shaping, so I traced them in Illustrator and cleaned them up a little. Then I printed them and cut them out with an Xacto knife. When the parts arrived, I put my two new (old) cars together. (As another aside, the ladder details and door steps were offset so I had to buy a few of these technic plates. I don't deal with odd numbers much, so if there's a better way to do these offsets, 7 wide people, please let me know.) This project was totally fueled by love and nostalgia so I wanted to change as little as I felt necessary. I hope you can excuse the creativity lacking on my end and that you enjoyed looking regardless. If anyone is interested in the Stud.io file, the Illustrator file for the numbers, or the original source video link, let me know and I'll be happy to provide! Thanks!
  4. Legownz

    Suggestions for a short train

    Oh man. That must've been a bit hard to do, but I'm curious how that turned out.
  5. Legownz

    [MOC] Engine Shed

    Personally I’m not a fan of them either. I had to put them there because the new doors hit the lights when they opened. I moved the lights up by a stud and I couldn’t use my previous mounting as the technic brick would be conflicting with the slope of the roof. Any suggestions for new ways of mounting the lights are welcome. I could also switch to single lights for each bay, centered above the doors. That’s a good idea! Even if I take the tiles off the shed, I still want to use them again. I will give it a shot. Thank you!
  6. Legownz

    [MOC] Engine Shed

    So I took @zephyr1934's suggestion and tried out brick built doors and expanding the opening to 10 studs wide. I'm not 100% happy with the door designs themselves, so I might change them later. Other from that, the wider opening is kinda nice. All my steam engines fit inside nicely...except the Emerald Night is still just a few studs too long. Ah well. Also, I got those 2x2 vent tiles second hand so please don't get angry about the crooked stickers.
  7. Legownz

    [MOC] Engine Shed

    Thank you! I like building things from across the pond and from here in North America, so I tend to just have them all run together and ignore how horribly inaccurate all of it is. The doors was one of the primary things I wanted to keep from the original set. I also knew from the get go that I would be putting diesels in there almost exclusively (Which are also all 6w). However, you bring up valid points with the advantages of brick built doors. I might look into designing some doors and post back if I have any good results. Thanks :)
  8. I waited a bit over two weeks for some parts from Canada that I needed to finish my latest MOC. It is frustrating for sure, but I understand it is not the postal service being lazy or anything like that. Anyway, I can't wait to see the engine completed! The stuff you have so far looks great!
  9. Legownz

    [MOC] Engine Shed

    Hi all! When I was a kid, I got the fantastic 10027 Train Engine Shed set for Christmas. I remember being so excited to build it on the floor of my living room, but as I got older, it slowly had pieces taken off for other projects and was eventually taken apart entirely. So a few weeks back, I decided to build my own version of it, trying to incorporate the best parts of it and adding my own touches to it. Without further ado, here it is: I knew I had to include the big black doors and the hanging lamps like in the original. However, because of the doors, the opening is only 8-wide. All my diesels can fit through with pretty much no problem, but with my steam engines, they are all too wide to fit through the opening. Oh well. I meant the shed to be used by diesels more as that is what I tend to build more of. The skylights were also something I wanted to bring back from the old set, but I wanted to try something new rather than rehashing the old design. I ended up picking these 8x8 plates in trans light blue which were originally used to represent ice. I also wanted some kind of exhaust stacks on the roof to help ventilate the building. I thought the TIE fighter dishes looked better than plain ones so that's what I used. Here is the rear of the building. I stuck the black sliding doors from the original set (Which I found are very pricey on Bricklink when I was looking to buy more for boxcars) here as a loading area. I was thinking of having it raised and connected to an exterior loading dock to accommodate trucks, but I ended up scrapping that idea and I'm still pretty happy with the current doors. Maybe one day I'll put it in. Also, those vents on the upper part of the wall connect up to a big air compressor on the inside. A minifig perspective into the shed. The skylights let in a decent amount of light, but I also added 4 more giant lamps on the roof, which you can barely see in this photo (Just above the crane track). I went through many iterations of how the inside was organized and what was in it. At one point, I played with the idea of a tiny forklift moc (Which I might make a separate post for in the town forum) living in there and helping move things from the black door in back, but ultimately, there just wasn't enough space. You may also notice the red lathe looks familiar, and you would be right! Another part of 10027 that I wanted brought over. You'll see later that I also brought over the bench vice design as well. I went with a different drill press design, however. You might be able to spot in the corner in one of these photos. With the engines removed, you can see a bit more inside! Another idea I toyed with was having pits below the track. If I was going to do that, I would want the pits to be real and not just black plates between the ties. However, to make them real, I would need to raise the building up quite a few studs and then it would not connect well to outside track so I just left them out. Another inside view facing toward the front doors. I think this is the best photo of the drill press. Maybe I should've taken out the minifigs in some of the photos...Oops! Anyway, you can also see the crane controls being used by the man in green. The big air thing mounted up on the wall connects to the vents I mentioned earlier on the back of the building. In my mind, that would connect to the air hose being used by the guy in the red hat to clean off the drill press of metal shavings. Here is the crane on its own. It comes right out with no problem and just slides on tiles on the inside of the building. It also can slide side to side and lower down its hook. I was proud of this design for scaffolding, but I'm almost positive I've seen other people use something like this before. Here is a diesel engine based on the one from the Maersk train. I tried to give it DOHCs and a timing chain, but I have no idea how accurate this is. Another design that will probably get worked on with time. I honestly didn't know where to stick this photo, so here it is. Just showing how close the Maersk train and my ALCO diesel are from the doors when they are fully against the buffers. This is one of the main things that determined the length of the building, so I hope I don't make any more long diesels! I know I mentioned earlier that my steam locomotives don't fit width-wise, but they can fit inside if you place them through the roof. Except the Emerald Night. That thing is just plain too big for this shed in any direction! Maybe one day, when I'm feeling crazy, I'll build a roundhouse for the steam engines. Speaking of engines, I thought I'd quickly show off the ones I used to display with the shed in this post. I didn't want to revive the old threads for the first two locos just to show them in brick, so here they are. Here's the little switcher that was on the siding in that first photo. Its first iteration is probably close to 7 or 8 years old at this point, but it has gone through countless redesigns, including one just a week or two ago. It is unpowered, but I'm assembling a small powered freight car for locos like this. And lastly, here is that handcar that was behind #1451. A simple design I came up with, but I like it. That's about it! Thanks for reading!
  10. Legownz

    English Electric - Takargo 1449

    I really like this model. I've noticed going through all these photos in this thread of your models, is that you have a tendency to have very creative and unique coupler and buffer designs. Super interesting stuff! Can't wait to see more!
  11. Legownz

    Simple 7 wide flatbed

    Somehow you made an incredibly unique and interesting MOC out of one of the most boring pieces of rolling stock around. I love the parts usage here with the pentagon tiles and the ladder railings. Very nice work!
  12. I've loved the 4554 Metro Train Station ever since I was little. It had always been "The ultimate train station" in my mind and something I wanted over any train station that was out while I was growing up. (4554 came out almost a decade before I was born if that gives some context). Anyway, I finally got it a few years ago and it's still very cool, though it does have the feature of an open back and a not deep interior for play. I recently got a full workstation for Lego building up and all my parts organized in drawers, so I thought I'd try and remedy that. However, I've modified old sets in the past, but for this one, I wanted to create a back without modifying the original set in the slightest. Here is the original 4554 set for reference. And here it is with my extension. I tried to essentially mirror any details over from one side to the other, such as the 1x1 round plates under the tiles or the 3 cones on the top. There were many different ways I could've gone for the back, but I decided to make it rather plain. I could do something in the center to try and get the columns and arches over the doorways to this side, but I only had one of those doors. Oh well. If it really bothers me, I can make some bricklink orders in the future, but for now, I'm happy. The rear section on it's own I hate leaving any of my builds without an interior, and I felt the 4554 was missing some more detail on the inside, so I added it here. Another bench on the left side mirror the original one to create a better waiting room. The white thing is a train schedule. The only issue is that it's a different print than the 4554 one. Maybe that'll be another order someday. On the right, I added some ticket machines and a small table. Upstairs is a switch control area. I don't know what they are actually called, but basically the thing to replace switch towers. I have no idea if they're typically in train stations, but I thought the space was cool to use it as such. Here you can get an idea of how the two sections key into each other. I've found the big issue with not modifying the original set is that since there are no actual locking mechanisms in place, the building can have a split or gap in certain places where it is flush in others. However, this should go away with attaching both parts to a baseplate on an even surface. Here are some closer photos of the interior, both with the building open and closed. After this project was done, I decided that I wanted another station, so I built a tiny station to compliment the main station. As you can see on the platform, there is another train schedule that is different than the other 2! Oh well. Like I mentioned before, I finished my ideal workstation and organization recently, so I have been building all the time now. As of writing this, I also have built a small bridge and have started work on an engine shed to replace my original set that I took apart as a not smart kid, but I'll save those for another post. Thanks for looking!
  13. Legownz

    Lego 10277 - Crocodile Locomotive

    I looked into it a little bit and it seems that the photos originated from an interview with a train designer and was posted on Lego's website some time ago. There is a bit more information provided in a reply by @Freddie in this Eurobricks thread: As a side note, I think these prototypes are very cool and I might try recreating some of them in the future. Though it seems someone has already recreated the UP loco and posted it on EB:
  14. Legownz

    [MOC] Diesel Switcher

    Ah. I think I get it now. Thank you both for explaining it to me/giving the heads up.
  15. Legownz

    [MOC] Diesel Switcher

    Thank you! I agree the cab should be longer, but I love those window pieces a lot. I might change it down the line, though. For some reason while I was designing, I thought it had to be an odd number of studs long. After revisiting it, I found that was not the case at all and was able to shorten it by one stud. I am much happier with the result and I do not miss those weird little gaps. I see what you're saying about flipping the colors to hide the battery box, but I don't totally follow you with the wires. PF had the wires connect to the top of the box, but PUP connects to the end, doesn't it? I have yet to get my hands on PUP components, so I could be easily mistaken/confused. There is space inside to connect the wires to the box and for excess to be (tightly) tucked away along with a hole in the chassis for the wire to reach the motor. There is also access to the top of the box with the cab off. I hope these photos help? Oh wow! Those are similar! While designing my own model, I felt like I had subconsciously based it off of something I've seen before in real life, but the closest I could find was a GE 44 ton switcher or a DB Class V 90. Very cool though!