DoomedACE

Hi Guys, my name is Alex, and more information about me can be found in the "Hello...." forum. As I use my Technic Sets mostly for display, I thought I'll pimp them a little by making a corresponding stickers. I did several different ones as of now. It was just a quick experiment, to see if I can do it, and what it would look like. I just attach the one for 8043 here. ________________________________ Update: 2016-05-06: Here is what the decals look like now: The others can be found in the bricksafe folder. http://bricksafe.com...or-technic-sets Currently, the following are done: 42009 42024 42029 42030 42039 42043 42056 8043 8285 8455 9398 and a Template which uses a Lego Duplo car as an example. Feel free to modify and create your own, please let me know which others you did. ______________________ What do you think? - of the general idea? - of the actual implementation? What about the feature list? I had to lower resolution and quality of the plaque, but I have the original sized photoshop files still available, so I can still change stuff. Data was actually taken from the brickset database, so I hope it is correct. Best regards, Alex PS: (I was unable to find an existing thread here, so if this is already covered, then please lock this and guide me.)

I was considering buying your instructions and ordering from there. I really don’t like the parts hunting part when building somebody else’s moc What is your loss here? Seems I miss something. I even thought this might help you sell instructions...

Thank you for the review - it was a pleasure to read. Lovely set, but clunky fork. Also missing a lot of chromed pieces. Quick question: Is Milwaukee spelled correctly on your sticker? Its kind of hard to see in your picture, but I think one E is missing at the end... Edit: Did look around the internet --> Yes, it really is spelled incorrectly...

Hey, after seeing this years official Modular: please hurry up with the instructions!

I am quite sure that some people care, this is a discussion point that sometimes comes up in the knock-off forums. (Yes, I read those too sometimes.) As I am completely unskilled in technic Mocs - I have no experience in selling instructions, but l would be interested in how the sales are actually developing from the people who are recognized in the community...

What do you guys think of the following thought? The sales of your BI actually go up, because a certain subset of the Lepin buyers recognize your work, and want to support you, although they have bought the set from china. I for myself feel tempted sometimes, because of the hassle (and shipping costs) of the necessary BrickLink orders. The convience is one factor that is not to be overlooked. Although I have not given in to the temptation, in that case I would still buy your instructions, for the reason given above...

You, Sir, are officially my hero now! Many thanks!!!! Goes off to bricklink...

Thanks for the reply, would an original Light&Sound Light Element work on the output of the Buwizz? Either directly, or with an adapter cable. Do you know?

Can you do blinking lights with BuWizz already? My buwizz unit is sitting on the shelf waiting for the app to include customizable controls for a „Light&Sound-styled“ Fire Truck....

Damn these look great! You really should look into selling these!

I second that!

Besides the fake lego thing - I like it very much - how much did you invest in parts to "modernize" it?

Thank you for the inspiration! I did the same, just yesterday. I used my Buwizz box, which eliminated the need for an IR receiver. But I did not swap out the lights and cabling. What I was thinking, is could you reuse the existing cabling and lights, by creating an adapter cable from power functions to 12 v, by cutting a PF extension cord, and using the 2 outer (left and right) strands. Would that work? I tried the search, but I did not find something related to pf to 12 v conversion cable....

Hi guys, my name is Alex, and I am mostly lurking in the Technic subforum... The reason I post here is: I found my old toys on the attic of my parents place, and there was most of my Lego stuff, including my beloved 12 volt trains: Lego 7745, 7755 and the railroad crossing 7866. All items were almost complete, and still in working condition. So, currently I do cleaning and bricklinking and I am on my way to revive my childhood. Happy me! :-) One thing that is not working perfectly is the remote of the 7866, the left button (gates open) get stuck almost everytime I press it. It then can be made to go up again, by pressing the right button (close gates) 1 time. Is there anything I can do to fix this, besides prying it open and having a look? Would spraying some WD40 into it be a vital solution? If possible, I really would like to avoid opening it.. Any help is greatly appreciated. Many thanks. Best regards, Alex PS: I used the search function, but was unable to find something similar. If I missed something, sorry for that, and please point me towards the other thread - Thank you.

Just to give an update. I did not find time for opening the remote. My little boy (3,5 years old) saw me tinkering with the remote, and one thing lead to another, and we ended up playing with the trains for the whole day. But, I'll try to find time for it this week....

I will take pictures - I am probably untalented enough to figure out what the problem might be by myself anyway.... ;-)

thanks for all the information provided. Will have a look into it the remote this weekend.

I assume it is gone as the typical 2 years shelf life has been reached already. Maybe some unsold stock is still available, but better hurry up....

Bluntly copied from quora: Just like there are many metals, there are many plastics that are very different from one another. Overall, plastics can be divided into two basic groups: Crystalline: Polypropylene, Polyethylene, Polyester (all types), Nylon Amorphous: Polycarbonate, Styrenics (including ABS), PVC The main ingredient in WD-40 is a light kerosene-like mineral oil, which is hydrocarbon based. Amorphous plastics and hydrocarbons don’t play well together: hydrocarbons will attack the chemical structure of amorphous plastics, breaking them down - essentially trying to “melt” them. In particular, Polycarbonate (PC) and Polystrene (PS). they are two named plastics on the WD-40 “do not use on these” list. Crystalline materials are unaffected by the hydrocarbons in WD-40, you can spray them as much as you wish. So, according to that wd40 seems not to be safe. Does anybody know what is likely to cause the button to get stuck? I know, that's guesswork....

me thinks, maybe 42070 was created in a very short timefame. As if they had not planned to to have it originally, but then changed their minds and requested it very late. Don't know, just a thought.

Yeah, I second that - When is the updated app supposed to be finished?

Hey, this is looking very good, I just found this. Great! Is there a software version planned for smartphones (IOS, Android), or a Mac version (not a windows user anymore... :-( ) As for your question what to tackle next: Maybe a system for a train level crossing, complete with signaling lights and boom barriers?

Great comparison - really appreciate the amount of work, thank you. Can you please show some detailed pictures of the construction of the version "2x buggy motor + buwizz"? I could not get mine to look halfway decent... again, many thanks!

Thank you, will give it a try next weekend....

No, in a 9398.....