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I made some modifications on the gear ratios, in order to test the max speed. I changed a 12:20 ratio to 16:16, and the car could reach 0.5 m/s speed. However, further increasing the gear ratio to 20:12 causing some gears to jump at full throttle. I cannot see, which gears. Most probably the small 12z half conical gears in the first differential, which couples the two motors. These gears face the highest torque, all the other gears are more robust. It seems, that it is not a good idea to couple the motors with a differential. But it was necessary to reach high gear ratio, because the diff could add x2 up gearing by locking one of the outputs. Well, I learned something, again.

Thank you for all the comments True, this rim is not made for sport cars, but this is the only one with features the pivot point closer to the center of the wheel. So it turns more realistically. So I like it, and I will probably prefer to use it in the future. The part is 32177, and it came parallel in several lines, like Technic, StarWars and Bionicle, some 20 years ago. The seat design is inspired by the Supercar Delux2 by Crowkillers. At this moment the car is rather slow. It has approximately the same gearing as the crawler, but the crawler has bigger tires. So the crawler is actually a bit faster . But not for long... I am very unlucky with RC cars, and I wanted the first iteration to be safely working. Now this is my first RC car, which works flawlessly. Since last week I spent some time to redesign the gearing, and add an extra pair of gears at the back of the car into a position, where the gears can be easily changed. I will rebuild the car tomorrow, and replace a 12:20 gearing to 16:16, 20:12 and 24:8. And I will see which one works the best, and how fast could it be.. I have the LDD design, but I never release the design files, or any instructions. It is a lot of effort to produce them, and the easiest way for the Chinese companies to steel your design. This would be a kind of unwanted acknowledgement. But if you put all the hard work to reverse engineer it, and build a copy for yourself, feel free to do it. The car is about 1450 pieces, so it is not impossible. Here is some help about the chassis. But you probably have to make some adjustment on the front suspension: I used compatible CaDa shock absorbers, which are exactly the same, as the genuine lego ones, but about 25% harder. And that extra stiffness is necessary, because the motors and the batteries make the car too heavy, and otherwise the front suspension is compressed too much. Unfortunately I cannot tell, because I have only CaDa copy of PF electronics, which uses only 2 cells LiPo batteries, therefor the performance is weak. This was the exact reason why I decided to purchase the new electronics. But I'm still waiting for 3 cells rechargeable batteries for the new hubs.

I would like to show you my latest creation, a WTCC race car. It does not follow any existing brand or livery, it is purely imaginary. Features: 'Hybrid' drivetrain: Fake engine drives the front wheels, 2x Control+ XL motors drive the rear wheels Steering: 1x Control+ L motor Working steering wheel Opening doors and hood. Rubber bands keep them in closed position. Easy to access batteries and green start button. I used the wheels of the Defender with the normal supercar tires, so the car is 1:10 in scale. The rear axle uses the new planetary hub. So far, I could not find a way, how to build a planetary hub based front axle with drive and decent steering angle and suspension. That's why the drivetrain is limited to the current solution, and is not 4 wheels drive. I'm using the Control+ app, with the 42099 Crawler's setup to drive the car. The only thing i don't like in the car, that the 5x7 panels in the hood does not exist in bright light orange, so I had to use orange ones. See more images on my flickr album

I think I found an error in the list. Panels #3 and #4 are available in bright green, but not available in bright light orange.

They should release a B-model. What, if they already have it? Printing new box and instructions, repacking the sets, and sell it again. Everyone happy. Could be an X-mas present.

29: 10 53: 6 33: 4 59: 3 20: 2 41: 1

Oh nooo, 11th place. So close to top 10. But 11th of 62 is not so bad.

29: 10 53: 6 18: 4 52: 3 54: 2 8: 1

21. Red Sky Functions: Steering Front and rear suspensions Mini V8 engine Rear wheel drive with differential Detailed interior Discussion topic:

Thanks you like it. Windshields are really missing from Technic sets. I could also argue, why it is good not to use it, but in some cases it would worth to consider. Originally the engine was gray, but I changed the colors to match the interior. In my opinion it looks better in this way. Think on it as an engine cover. Maybe it is covered with leather... as @Tomik said I think it is not possible to change the bumper lights to tiles or plates, because they overlap at the corner. The other issue is more serious, the car is wider, than 15 studs at the wheels. And the rules are strict Luckily, it is easy to solve the problem, by replacing a red bush on each axles by one half bush. This way the wheels will not protrude, and the car fits within 15 studs. This car is an LDD design, and this step is impossible in LDD, because the steering link overlaps with the rim. But works perfectly fine in reality. Actually, the steering works better, because the pivot point is closer to the rim. On the other hand, now the axles protrude at the center of the wheel, which looks ugly. But nothing to do with it. Now I had to shoot the final photos. There is one more interesting/annoying issue. I tried to apply a sticker to the 5x7 panel on the side. I wanted to add a sticker of the 8070 supercar, concretely the one behind the front wheel. This one . I have 8070, and I almost never apply the stickers. I looked for the sticker sheet, and I had to realize, that the sheet is damaged. It has waves/bumps all across the sheet, where the sticker detached from the silicon paper, and the glue dried out. I'm not sure, if it can be applied correctly. I have several unused sticker sheets, but only this one shows the problem. So the car will be sticker free

OK, finally I have my bricks. And here is the result. I don't say, that this is a modular build, but the chassis can be very easily assembled from big blocks. Then adding the body is a similarly fast process. I had to redesign the rear part of the car, because it was totally unstable. There were many parts flexing almost freely around a single pin or axle. But I like the new version with the 4x exhaust.

I counted 33 topics starting with TC18. This will be a very good contest.

I made a system update on my mobile, and now both the LEGO app and your app work fine.

I converted it to Stud.io. Looks cool, and the rendering is the best feature. I still feel LDD more handy. I payed many euros for that canopy part for the Aircraft Contest. It's the perfect time to reuse it

I tried the app, but I found the steering wheel and the servo mode do not work properly. I'm trying to operate the crawler. The motor only receives the first input, then rotates continuously on that speed, and does not react anymore. The run mode works fine. Unfortunately, I could not find a working app. The LEGO Control+ app does not even start, just shows stripy black screen after the logo (although my phone meets the requirements). The BrickController2 requires a Bluetooth controller. Your app fails with with the steering.