cehnot

Eurobricks Citizen
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Everything posted by cehnot

  1. cehnot

    Batman (DC Superheroes) 2024 - Rumors & Discussion

    All I see is 67 options for future mocs.
  2. cehnot

    Dune Ornithopter Mod

    Will you supply the Studio file for us to make mods to the set? Or plan to offer instructions? I was thinking of doing something similar since seeing Dune 2.
  3. Bricklink just announced that the Mountain Fortress was chosen as one of the five finalists to be made into sets. Mountain Fortress
  4. Great pictures on Instagram. Wolfpack, some great torso printing on civilians, especially the tab shirt. I wish the one building connected to the castle, but I think the amount of stickers are more concerning. Besides that. I'm fine with the set. Great addition to the castle series.
  5. I reworked the entire structual shape over the last year. I took the ship to Brick Fest Live Cleveland in July 2023 with a basic mast setup without sails. Since then I began my massive island expansion project. The sails I had ordered last year were larger custom designed sails based on the Barracuda set sails and rigging design. I didnt like how they looked. New Sail designs The newly designed sails are proportional to the ship and now fit over pins with ball tops. I like how they hang over the gallant yards. This makes it a a nice compromise between custom rigging and lego set rigging. Masts and Rigging starting in June 2023 i began to rework the entire mast and rigging. The idea was to make this a larger set that would be able to exist with LEGO parts without custom rigging with cut string. I used a combination of string and newer flexible hoseswith those clips and holes at the end in Reddish Brown. Mast Design I also disliked the original 2 mast design. Instead of making it with 2 sails per mast like i tried to do for 2 to 3 months in the summer of 2023 I have built a 3 mast galleon with 3 sails per front and middle mast with a top sail over the mizzen sail. The original goal like page 1 and 2 of this thread shared a mast base that was going to combine the set masts into the newer ship, but once i placed them on it I felt that they were out of place. I ordered 3 rounds of various custom printed sails between August and November. I tried making the ship appear to have a Spanish Galleon set of sails. The top sails were almost 2/3 longer than the bottom and frankly the Barracuda's shape didnt look right either. I tried to keep the sameamount of sails on the ship, but like several people mentioned on page 2 the entire height of the masts were too short. I ordered several books about sailmaking, 16th-18th century ships and model ship making books to help me along the way. With that research and knowledge about the various pully systems, rigging lines and how each rope were used for support, keeping the yard masts straight, keeping the masts from breaking, and such i felt that the various strings with studs on the ends would help do those jobs. The great part is LEGO has 11, 22, 30, and 41 stud length string options so I was able to do the rigging without cutting. New sail design I incorporated a spirit sail with 2 jib sails. I also created a set of 2 mast jib sails in-between the front and middle mast. I did not want to update the project until I felt the newly designed ship works with the 7-8lb ship when you pick it up from the center without it breaking apart. As for photos. I am setting up a nice white backdrop next week and taking photos with my slr camera with the finished project. The ship separates into 3 sections but the floors overlap each one of the other sections to keep it sturdy enough and not come apart when lifted up by 1 hand. The photo below is from November before I separated it and began expanding the island. I draw comics for a living so it's been tough finding time to do updates to this project. I have purchased the parts to build a sister ship for the Imperials and call it Camilla. Studio rendering below. This ship is a modified version of The Seven Seas Barracuda. The ship parts were time co suming to order over the winter. Looking forward to building it soon. As for instructions. I will say that the newer files with Camilla are updated with the 2023 parts I used in the new Barracuda. I need to convert the colors back to the ones in my ship since the Camilla uses white interiors instead of reddish brown and black. I guess it really depends on preference. Brittle brown plagued my ordering process over the last few years. The ship is about 6000 pieces and the rigging in the photo above jas over 30-50 various string parts. I may just give people the file to use to create it. I may do it, but it would be later in 2024. UCS Barracuda Bay photos coming soon The New Stand. I reworked the stand. I will share phots of it next week I hope. The new stand is about 2 bricks taller and is built to the lower hull now. It is held on by 8 studs and supports all 8lbs without a lot of stress. The Island What made my updates get lost is because I spent 6 months dismantling and rethinking what the Barracuda Bay could be if built to support and add on the design of my new ship. The great part of my ship it only takes about 10 to 15 minutes to disassemble and reassemble the ship. The separated parts and such are reconfigured into the new island. The island is roughly 4000 parts. I won't know until I rebuild it in Studio. I found it easier to buy way more parts for rocks and structures around the island rather than in the Studio file. The island is about 70x76 studs and separates into 4 assymetical sections. The additional 8 studs added to the front section doesn't make sense to have it angled upward. I wanted a practical island with living quarters. It now sits flat on using the same ball joints, but included a wall with a door and windows to enclose it. The stern is also 8 studs wider so the sheer weight doesn't securely keep it on top. It doesn't have a door like the set does. It's a brick built stern that rese.bles the original molded stern. Instead the entire rear section is flipped 180 degrees around and now has a similar wall, window, door structure as the entrance to Jose's Inn. It sits about 5 studs higher as well. The middle section is also 8 studs longer so it felt best to make the front of the island walkways 4 to 6 studs longer. The original rear section of the island had stairs going down to the water with a wooden structure holding the stern up on top. The new island is basically 1 large rock structure with a massive cave the wraps around 3 of the 4 sections. To justify a shipwreck I designed the entire island to be a massive Skull Island set. The front two sections house the 3 ship parts. The stern sits on top of the island rock cave which I think is about 12 to 13 studs tall. The rocks wrap around d the shape of the stern in a way like it's nested between rocks. The rear of the stern where the captains quarters are. The stern around the rudder is enclosed with a door and windows that makes a nice large living quarters for people. The entrance to the cave is below the stern where the front wooden dock is like the set. Instead of gijg. Down the stairs to am open area behind the stern like the set, it actually is a wooden house structure with 2 windows on the side where the middle section sits up against. It becomes a storage room that is built in front of the cave entrance. The inside of the cave has 4 different piers where you can unload cargo and use it as a large secure bunker. The front of Barracuda Bay set has stair case that leads up to the stern. Because of the way my floors overlay the front and middle section to keep it locked together I created a rock archway between the front section and the dock. It also supports the top floor resting above it. That long deck leads to the stern and a fun angle. The since my shop has 4 floors the front of the new expanbed set has an awesome combination of stairs scattered on each level to get you access to each of the 4 floors. I cannot wait to share how much this island easily looks like a well lived in used shipwreck home. Joses Inn. Similar entrance as the set, but due to my extra cargo floor you enter and go up 2 steps to the room. My ship is 4 bricks tall in the cannon level, but because I removed the floors in various sections like the middle section. I created removable roofs that make the Canon room now 6 studs high and easier to walk around towards the front half of that middle section. This gives it a proper touch to help make the interior feel like it's a new bar/kitchen area. 2 Rear sections These were by far my favorite parts to develop. SKULL ISLAND THE LEFT SIDE 32x32 stud space with my version of an UCS skull island that is about just as tall as the stern sitting on top of the cave system. That makes the 32x32 skull island remake about a 15 or so inches tall. The entrance to skull island is through the mouth. You can fit a row boat with people on it in the mouth The skull entrance is actually 45 degrees. I didn't want the island to be entirely based on perpendicular architecture. The e trance is set at. 45 degree angle. The water line level has 2 piers inside. 1 to the left and on in the back with stairs leading up to the middle section with a cave exit. The rear of the middle section sits up against the cave. The cave continues to the right into the right island section. It contains s Nother pier on the far right wall, but also the cave curves slightly left to the pier that leads up the stairs to the front dock below the stern. Rear island second level. Behind the eyes to the skupp shaped cve has an aged dark red/dark blue throne caved into the skull. The skull is removable with 3 technic pins. That level also is a wooden/rock combination area that you can see down to the water level below. It is currently the pirates storage room. There is cave exit leading towards the front section on the left side. There is also a right cave entrance that wrps the island with a wooden and rock carved path that leads to the rudder area that was converted into a cabin like structure. From the middle section you can access the deck level from a bridge from the stern section and front section. The deck above joses inn is the last piece I'm still finishing. It's going to be another small apartment built behind the Canon. On the back half of the middle ship section deck level is stairs that lead to to the skull island 2bd level. That enters a door to a Aston built cabin on top of skull island. That cabin has 2 rooms. The first room has 2 door. 1 leads to the rest of the cabin and the other enders the wooden shipwreck entrance to the captains quarters. Seems odd to enter where the side window is, but the removal shop sections I built actually include a removable side walls on those angled walls that taper to the cabin. Thos was replaced with another wooden structure that lines up to the skull island cabin making it one large housing area. I wanted a secure entrance for the captain and first mate, quartermaster quarters. Nobody can access that deck without entering the 2 doors in the stone cabin. This makes the top of the stern. The second room in the stone cabin is about 11 8 studs and supports a bunk bed for more officers. The officers cabin also has a door that leads to the top of skull island where they can a cess the large wooden crane to house heavy supplies off row boats. Forgot to mention that the second level of skull island where the throne room is location leads outside to the stone cabins basement door where they keep food. There is a prison built into the side of the island between the stern and front ship section under the rock archway. The stone cabin where the officers quarters also has a ladder leading up to the roof. This also accesss the poop deck above the stern. The 4 quarters of the island attach like the new Eldorado set using those clips. The point of this delay was the island. Once I built the ship i felt that the island needed to be equally impressive. The project isn't complete. Maybe in a week I will have the final structure finished and take photos of the massive island.
  6. The Golden Age of Piracy: 1650-1720 Imperial Ship Name: The Camilla (1708, East India Trade Company), Broadside's Revenge (1711, Protection of Port Royal) The Seven Seas Barracuda (1714, Captain Redbeard at Pirates Cove) Commissioned by the Imperial Fleet in 1705 Dockyard Construction: Port Royal, 3 years. Launched: 1708 Owners: Captain George Tucker, The Royal Navy, East India Trading Company (1708-1711) (deceased) Captain William Tierney, The Royal Navy, Imperial Navy, The Governor's Fleet in the Caribbean 1711-1714) Captain Roger Redbeard 1714-?) Port of Registry: Port Royal Type: East Indiaman Galleon (Sixth Rate Ship of the Line) Weapons: 26 cannons Length: 110 feet total length (110 studs) History: After years of humility, Governor Broadside rebuilds his fleet and status after the years of piracy looting and plundering Port Royal. Though the anti-piracy laws were enacted in 1687, many past governors failed to contain the issue. By the early 1700s Governor Broadside was placed in charge of Port Royal and was cherished for his attack on the pirates. Captain Redbeard commanded several smaller ships before commandeering the Imperial Brig he stole in the Black Seas. His Mediterranean pirate days were done and ready to expand in larger waters. After several years ransacking ports in the Middle east and Asia he made his way towards the Caribbean where he met his match. He pillaged and plundered small trading posts and eventually attacked larger merchant vessels in open water. Governor Broadside sent a fleet after The Black Seas Barracuda and fought a courageous war on open water. One night a tropical hurricane swept through the entire sea. With little to no escape, the fleet decided to chase the Barracuda into the eye of the storm making their last stand against Captain Redbeard and his crew. The fleet lost several ships during the hurricane and The Black Seas Barracuda ran the ship into a rocky cove marooning the captain and his crew. The ships collided and the Imperial ship sank to the bottom of the sea. Captain Redbeard was defeated and lost at sea. The remaining fleet lost their way and didn't realize they were several hundreds of miles away from their original position and could not find any remains in the calm sea afterwards. Governor Broadside wrote to the Crown claiming victory in defeating the remaining pirates. Captain Redbeard and his remaining crew managed to make the shipwrecked island their home by scavenging the surrounding islands for food and shelter. During his time, Governor Broadside is awarded a fleet of ships for his victory and returning Port Royal to a successful trading post and naval command center in Jamaica. He begins building rebuilding his fleet. To mark the occasion, he commissions The Sea Hawk (Caribbean Clipper), a frigate, and an indiaman galleon. Captain Redbeard and his crew are captured by the Spanish Armada on a distant island gathering supplies and trading with local natives. The same fleet he once chartered under a different name decades ago had no clue who he was or his crew. They claimed to be a merchant ship shipwrecked years ago pursuing a whale. One stormy night the Captain awakes to voices yelling from the crows nest of Imperial forces. The large Man of War Spanish ship took on cannon fire and returned the favor. Redbeard could hear the Admiral tell his navigator to head to a rocky cove. There they would counter attack the other ship and block them in the bay by luring them onto the island. This fortified treasure ship narrowly avoided the shallow waters and navigated into position. There they met the Imperial forces. A cog, two clipper,s a galleon and a frigate carrying the imperial flags. The battle began and cannon fire hit the brig knocking the metal bars loose. They quickly exited the brig and holding area taking out every soldier they came in contact with. The ship took on water and sunk into the sandbars. Soldiers abandoned the ship and headed to the island. Redbeard could see that this was a Spanish trading port without a fortress for protection. The Imperial navy surrounded the galleon setting it on fire. Redbeard and his crew swam to shore hiding in the trees watching the armies fight. The imperials started to move to land. The frigate backed away from shore and positioned themselves in open water facing the bay. The remaining crew aboard the indiamann galleon focused their attention on the shoreline and not the dense foliage to their starboard side. The remains of the Spanish galleon light the evening sky and the imperial forces claim victory as they search out the remaining Spanish soldiers. Night falls, the Fridate deploys a jolly boat to shore. The Indiaman Galleon begins to set up camp on the shoreline at the mouth of the bay. Captain Redbeard and his crew swim to the lightly defended Galleon. They wait in the water and climb up the rudder. A jolly boat returns from shore and informs the navigator and skeleton crew to position the ship near the frigate blocking all access to the port. The skeleton crew hoist the sails and begin to raise the anchor. Redbeard and his crew enter the ship from the cannon chaser ports. They swiftly make their way through the gun deck silently taking down any remaining crew. The ship begins to move turn around in the bay and Redbeard's crew successfully take command of the armory and climb their way up into the forecastle crew chambers. The dozen crew members on the main deck are not armed with any pistols and the fight breaks out on the main deck. The ship is gaining speed and the wind push the ship through the bay. The ships bell is rung as redbeard makes his way up the quarter deck and takes control of the ship. With the wind at their side and the ship gaining momentum the Imperial forces and fleet doesn't have time to react. The frigate is anchored and the remaining ships were close to shore facing the beach. Redbeard moved swiftly passed the frigate as they attempted to begin cannon fire. Within minutes Redbeard blew past ship and out of the cannon's reach. The storm masked their cover and disappeared. That night Captain Redbeard rummaged through the Great Cabin reading letters from the Crown. He found the charters and commission detailing the ships history and travel logs. Broadside's Revenge. Captain Redbeard just stole his arch enemy's newly commissioned ship. Redbeard charted a course to Pirate Cove to retrofit the ship and add a beautiful black, white, and yellow coat of paint to this boring brown ship. The Barracuda Returns! MODULAR DESIGN The ship still separates into 3 parts, but not in the same location. I added a mid section on the bow and stern to make the ship separate into equal thirds. This also helps reinforce the structural integrity and make sure the sides do not collapse. Removable Floors: For multiple display purposes I thought of options and how it could be displayed as a cross section or give it a play factor and make sure people can access different parts of the ship. I placed hinges and locking hinges that you just need to remove a few tiles and multiple sections of the walls can come off quite easily, but not fall apart. When you see the interior you will see how this works because I grouped these sections to hide areas easily, but also show off the modular parts. THE EXTERIOR Race-built galleons ranged from 70 to 100 feet long from bow to rudder. I am proud to say my ship is 73 studs long and I usually try to design my stuff within a 1:40 to 1:45 ratio so that would be about 1 stud per foot. The Race-Built inspired Galleon maintains the theme designed by LEGO's Barracuda. I did struggle building a ship based on the design elements in the original Brig. The most difficult decision was to abandon the pre-fab hull pieces. The hull shape may have changed in the stern, but I did figure out how to maintain the brown color all the way up to the cabin like the set. The other challenge was keeping the same brown color flow up on the bow similar to the original set. These were more difficult than I expected because the water line was raised almost 2 bricks. I kept the original ship next to the new ship at the same water line height so I knew that my ship did not exceed the other ship in height based on that location. The LEGO set water line is located at the bottom of the prefab hulls. My water line is located at the bottom of the curved slopes. Quarter Deck: 1. Navigation Box: There are containers located behind the mizzen mast. I debated on making a navigation box somewhere on the deck to house the maps and such. Most ships have them located in front of the wheel or attached o the wheel. Since race-built ships do not have navigation rooms I decided to use the place between the stains as a great location for the navigation compartment to house all these items. 2. The Wheel: I made slots and have a tube area to run string down to the rudder tiller that I plan to do so its a functional wheel. 3. Skylight: Sorta impractical in case they get boarded. I really liked the skylight idea on the Black Pearl and most ships didn't have them because you could shoot at the enemies inside the cabin from above. My older design had a smaller one that would be more in line with skylights on ships in the 17th century, but frankly I loved the larger skylight design I came up with. Main Deck: 1. Bilge Pumps: These pumps are usually located on the gun deck or the main deck. I chose to place them on the main deck next to the main mast like many english galleons. These pumps help keep the ship from taking on too much water and run down to the bottom of the ship. They usually are wider at the bottom as well. I used the new candle pieces and then round 1x1 bricks at the bottom to simulate this. You can see them on the right and left side of the main mast. 2. Gallery: I love balconies on ships. The gallery design was always something I thought the Barracuda could have if the cabin was not as wide as the set. When I narrowed the cabin by 2 studs the graceful swooping effect from the rear sides of galleons really made it appear aerodynamic. The gallery was added using the same proportions as in the specs I have for reference. I love the underside details holding up the balcony. I reused this idea a few times around the ship to hold up the mast rigging platforms. 3. Stern Hull: I decided to custom build the stern hull since I looked at my mint old brown hull pieces I purchased and it looks too weird against the reddish brown especially when you see the interior. 4. Jolly Boats: Galleons usually had two types of row boats on their ship. The larger jolly boat and the scout boat. I wanted to make sure that the smaller boat fit inside the prefabricated boat like most storage. The great part is they do not exceed the forecastle which my earlier reference depicts. It looks best with only 1 boat and the cargo grates are large enough to house the boat inside the gun deck if I wanted to so this was not even an issue. 5. Side Walls: The higher side walls on the main deck were common on galleons. I know the official set used a railing, which is common with most merchant ships, but many were retrofitted with solid walls and added cannon ports. Ships built with this in mind were taller and both the railing and the solid side wall height are the same. I feel like it kept emphasizing the sloping effect moving up the ship. THE INTERIOR: This was the most difficult part of this ship. The prefabricated hull pieces only allow you to go 16 studs wide and I didn't want the top-down profile to look ridiculous so I kept it slim like many race-built galleons. I would actually make the front 1/3 bulge out another 2 studs wider if I could, but I didn't want to stray too far from the original set. Main Deck: 1. The Captain's Cabin/Great Cabin: Several of the reference I have show short storage rooms beneath the cabin. Many of these I found had hatches only in the captains chambers. I assume this would be hidden by a rug or something. Either way I added it to the ship using a speed champion frame. I made a set of matching bookshelves as well. I felt the statue bust needed a place to sit. The captains bed is now a large chest that can be removed and house his cutlass or other larger items. 2. The Quartermaster and First Mate/ Sleeping Quarters: 2 beds with chests. The hinges flip up the beds to house their outfits or weapons. 3. Guest or Officers Sleeping Quarters: 2 beds turned upright for cannon placement. This room is used for guests or Pilot or surgeon/carpenter. The main capstan is located here. The 4 bars to slide into the capstan are clipped to the wall. This room usually exits the ship. The doors are often taken of their hinges to easily access the capstan. Doors are usually put back on hinges during wartime, or when guests arrive. 4. Forecastle/ Boatswain and Master Quarters: 2 beds flip up for the chairs to sit and enjoy company. The table flips down to uncover a hatch hole for the stairs to the armory. Gun Deck: 1. Carpenter/Blacksmith Workshop: The rear facing cannons also reside here. The workshop has a hatch in the floor to access the treasure storage. 2. Gun and Access Floors: The floor is removable between support beams to access the cargo hold below. Plenty of place to store lots of loot, food, beer, rum, water, flour, etc. From Back to front: Treasure hold has metal bars in front to separate the hold from rest. Also can serve as a brig. 3. Cook's Station: Access to the brick oven under the stairs. Both sides of the ship serve as a preparation area for all the crew members. 2 tables and plenty of clips to hang pots, pans, utensils. 4. Armory/Crew Dining Area: The armory has the keg tap, plenty of space to add barrels for storing swords and such. This same area also has the crew dining table area and sitting. 5. Hammocks: All throughout the deck are modified bricks with handle located on the support beams. These are for hanging hammocks throughout the gun deck for crews to sleep. I plan on making 8 hammocks out of fabric based on the official set shape, but make it 7 to 8 studs long instead of 10 studs long. Orlop Deck: Brig/Treasure Hold: Made of black metal frame and walls to help define area. Takes up the entire area under the carpenters room to the back of the ship. Magazine Storage: First hatch/access area Beer Storage: Second hatch/access area Water Storage: Third hatch/access area Flour and food Storage: behind and around kettle oven General stores: front half of ship Masts and Rigging: String will be added to the physical model when I gather all the parts. I wish LEGO created a new set of rigging that fans out from a vertical line instead of making it fan out from the center. One of my goals was to make the rigging feel like it was fanning out from the vertical line. I did this with a complex attachment rigging concept where I used bars, bar clips, and round tile with a bar parts. I think this works effectively well. I also wish they would offer various heights and widths with the sets. My proposal makes use of the current parts with custom cut to either make them shorter or narrower. I have a bunch of rigging from a eBay haul of random pirate parts. These are the only parts I will modify. The rigging will be LEGO. I will be using black string and plastic rigging pieces. The one thing that is different is the custom plastic medium rigging in the front and the proposed small rigging in the rear. These are built with the actual plastic rigging pieces, but I am cutting them down to fit.
  7. cehnot

    Doc Brown's 1985 Garage

    What started out as a wall display for my new 2020 six-stud wide Time Machine, ended up being a whole parking lot with Burger King currently in production. This project keeps getting bigger each time I return to the file. For now, I present to you the finished Doc Brown's minified scale garage complete with opening garage doors. I may need to update the file since I last worked on it to modify the front gate, but overall the model looks fantastic with all the play features from the first film. In order to design this doc I used deleted scenes, screen stills, replayed and paused scenes, researched production stills and gathered as much info as I could from BTTF fans and collectors in order to properly scale this and get the final dimensions to work in LEGO. In order to recreate the parking lot I used google maps to properly promotion the Burger king and lot. I had a friend go and measure the actual garage in California, found blu prints with pre production nots on how the final set was changed to fit and match the actual garage. Hint: you never see the rear of the exterior so Doc Brown added on a bathroom in the back sometime in 1955. This model features a removable roof for access to the interior. The elements from 1985 in their proper location, a hinge in the shelves to blast Marty into the boxes and shelves and recreate the falling over effect. Anyways, onto the renders. The Exterior: I realized I may have selected the fence and accidentally slid it down too far on the left when placing it upside down. It should not be crashing into the bottom fence. As I keep expanding the location set I am reminded how difficult it will be doing the interior of the 1980s Burger King when there are no photos of it. So many similar design photos so I may just build the roof and call it done. Ideally I want to make it as accurate as possible and I'm sure I could try to find the franchise owner and ask if they could get the original blueprints for that era or photos and I am sure Burger King keeps all that. But, for this project, I wanted to make sure the movie favorite location was handled with proper care. The Beautiful interior: That shelf seems sturdy for now. Einstein.. where is he? That is Marty's bed. Rock and Roll baby! That model of Hill Valley looks quite familiar. The most difficult are to find reference photos. Doc Brown's bedroom from 1985. When his housee burnt down he began living in his garage. In the first 2 films we see the garage in 1955. This is part of his laboratory and we see plenty of photo and screen time with them playing with models and such from various camera angles. But 1985, we get one blurry out of focus background when Marty goes to the Jukebox while talking on the phone with Doc. BTW, The Juke box is at the bottom in brown with 2 brick arches. They don't make them in transparent colors...oh well. That bed was shown in a deleted scene and 1 production still of behind the scenes. The bathroom is partially visible in the film during the 1955 hill valley model scene when they discuss going back to the future. The door is open and the light is on. We see part of the sink and all the toilet. 1 production photo shows a tub out of focus on the left. A nice aerial shot showing how large this thing is. The trees and shrubs in the background are based on the actual garage. This took most my winter developing. I am quite proud of the garage and how much detail i was able to pull off inside and the subtle textures on the exterior as well. One last note: The model is based on a 1:35 scale like all my models.
  8. cehnot

    Useful Pirate Pieces from other Themes?

    I can confirm at least in Northeast Ohio the LEGO store has all new 2024 BAM parts. I picked up 6 pirate torsos, new printed legs, duel molded hair and tricorn hats, 3 lion knight queen torsos, 3 duel molded dark tan and reddish brown legs, and 9 lion knight shields. In the past they let me just get 15 pants or torsos, but the new employees are young and playing by the book. Last major BAM spree was 18 BAM silver/red falcon torsos. Oh well. The pirate printed legs are really nice.
  9. This is inspiring. I did a complete rebuild of the car after the set was released and and i may need to open a second set to build your model. This has so many different part usage techniques. I love the hood and curves on the side. I like how you used the new 1x3 inverted arch for the wheel well.
  10. cehnot

    Useful Pirate Pieces from other Themes?

    That is wonderful. I'll need to check out the local BAM bins. I have been buying a lot of duel molded legs for castle and pirate minifigs. I wish we would get more duel legs with prints on them.
  11. cehnot

    Tim Burton Batmobile V3.

    UPDATED 10 l/01/23: Rebrickable instructions are now free. I didn't realize they were setup thos way. Free Batmobile Instructions Hello everybody, wanted to share with you my newest edition to the famous movie prop. I reworked the entire structure and shaping on the center part from v2. The newer model is based on the new Jazz Inc, research and development on their 1/6 scale model. The only part I could not deliver on was shortening the car's height by 1 stud. When I did this, the entire frame became more difficult to handle and the wheels had to be lowered and looked like the car was jacked up like a truck. For the first time I have actually learned how to do instructions and made them available on rebrickable since so many people requested this for version 2. That file and design no longer fits my goal and is no more. I did try to incorporate the new 2023 Speed Champion Mudguards. They slide into the rear and front pretty easily. I wish LEGO had wheel wells that are aligned to the studs. This would help out cars like this one, Ecto-1 and many older trucks and such. Seems like it would be easy to design a hood that slides into a 2x4 area that would basically create wall arches around the tires. I may 3d print my own or try the COBI brand parts they use on their military planes that curve with a 2 plate height. Might work inside the rear wheel well. For those wondering, the towball with bar is representing the scene where he drops the bomb. It goes into the hole behind the front wheel on the side panel. Same area the shin-breakers attach. Couldn't figure out a simple way to do the disc launchers. They would launch from the area above the 1x1 brick with stud where you see the 1x2 plate. It is a great seam area that would be the same place where the disc slides out and shoots. A simple moc variation would be using the off brand part that is a 2x2 quarter curve. Same curve angle as the 4x4 circle plate. New Specs: 23 studs long 9 studs wide. I am quite proud of the new design. The car's shape is remarkable in its unique curves and I am happy to say this may be the closest anybody got to the top view proportions. The car uses the most recent parts in 2023 Summer. They were vital to achieving the new shape design. Going to compare the older model to the newer model: Top View: Old New Front Wheel Well: 8 Studs Center of car: 7 studs Rear wheel well: 9 studs Height: 14 plates (ideal would be 13 plates) Here are some of the photos I rendered from Studio. If I have time I will take real photos of the new model. It was on display at Brick Convention Cleveland 2 weeks ago. I modified the car a bit using parts from Brickarms (Mono Clip, U Clips), and a few non brand LEGO parts that make some cool modified plates that enhance the greebling on the side. Shin Breakers Machine Guns definately look weak compared to the ones I modified using Brickarms unique military parts. The side angle was taken when I finally solved the greebling and side panel. It has an earlier version of the rear wheel well and fins. I changed the back to be more stable. Used brackets and plates instead of headlight bricks. I am quite fond of the placement of the grappling hook hole. Its centered to the exhaust intake area. Those new 1 brick wide brackets are amazing. Go bricks has black Round 2x2x1 2/3 Domes. A builder at the Brick Convention cut them to 1 brick height and used them for small water wells in his garden. I am ordering a few to use them as exhaust intakes. That would be the only custom job on the project. The canopy has inverted 1x2 panels attached to the roof using off brand stud inverters. You can do this same effect with hands, but the stud inverters are amazing. As Always, I simply cannot build a vehicle without a full interior or engine. cutaway of the Turbine and exhaust
  12. cehnot

    Tim Burton Batmobile V3.

    All my Batman models are now up on rebrickable.com as free instructions. https://rebrickable.com/users/cehnot/mocs/
  13. cehnot

    Tim Burton's 1989 Batwing

    Batwing 1989 by Chris Ehnot, on Flickr Batwing 1989 by Chris Ehnot, on Flickr Batwing 1989 by Chris Ehnot, on Flickr Batwing 1989 by Chris Ehnot, on Flickr Batwing 1989 by Chris Ehnot, on Flickr Batwing 1989 by Chris Ehnot, on Flickr Batwing 1989 by Chris Ehnot, on Flickr Batwing 1989 by Chris Ehnot, on Flickr If you want to see a few more photos, check out my flickr page. The cockpit fits 1 Batman minifig. I also built a simple turbine engine inside the main structure. The design is slightly larger than the bat mobile by 3 studs because I chose to make the ship as close to the movie as possible, focusing on the bat symbol. The vehicle should actually be 3 feet shorter than the batmobile.
  14. cehnot

    Tim Burton's 1989 Batwing

    The rebrickable instructions for the batwing, Duck car, batskiboat and batmobile are all on rebrickable. I didn't realize they were set to free, oh well. They all have been updated, revised and finalized with new winter 2023/2024 parts. https://rebrickable.com/users/cehnot/mocs/
  15. I designed several versions since my thread "Back to the DeLorean" in 2016. I admit, I completely forgot to share the new files and images this past winter. So many incarnations have come from this iconic ride and I am sharing with you 2 versions: The Studio renders and my actual model created with custom colored parts made with a 3rd party chrome service. My original design in 2016 was based on a 7 stud wide car. I shrunk it down into a 6 stud wide car and feel that the parts introduced in 2019 gave me the opportunity to finally develop it. The great part about this set, the Part 1 and Part 2 rear can be swapped out pretty quickly to move from nuclear rod power to Mr Fusion. The car rolls just fine with the current hubcap layers. The wheels come off and easy slide down the cut hoses that fit into the bar clip/hover mode attachments. You never have to remove anything in the mudguard area, just add the hover attachments inside where I designed side wall spots it will go into. My new scale matches all my other vehicles and ships: approximately 1:35 scale. DMC-12: 1981 model. BTTF: Part 1 BTTF: Part 2 BTTF: Part 3 The Interior: Physical Custom Moc: Consists of 3rd party non-lego parts: Brickarm Customized parts using LEGO parts: 1. Windscreen: Custom cut windscreen I have another model that can open the gull wings, partially built. I did build my alternative version with a functioning gull wing. I sacrifice several things to accomplish this. But, that is why i designed the windscreen parts the way i did. I cut LEGO parts to make this screen. Now the 2020 champions have a similar screen that is way too long, but if they produce one with grey or silver edges I will try it on this model. Otherwise, the train top in black works perfectly for a more slender design. I like the hard edges on my windscreen since the DeLorean doesn't have curves. 2. Various hoses were cut to fit the model. Red hoses. Also cut down a teal bar and smoothed it off into 2 studs wide parts. 3. 4 2x2 hinge tops were smoothed down to just the flat plate part to make a neat texture for the bottom of the car. Its not totally necessary, helps hold lego cord with studs in place, but more a decoration element for my model. 4. A hammer was shorted in my 2016/2017 model and I used it in this model. You can easily use the regular hammer as is. I just never replaced it. I lost the orange headlight seen in the render and i just placed a 1x1 black plate in there. minified fits fine with headlight in my model. 5. White bar holder with clip. It was a perfect size for the Mr Fusion and I used it for my 2017 model. I added a sticker for it and looks fine to me. The renders above use a round brick. 6. Custom stickers for Mr Fusion and DMC logo on the front of the car I also introduced my Doc Brown Value Van in 2016 in the thread as well. This was a massive build, 10 studs wide and over 30 studs long. This vehicle does fit this car since the inside dimensions were 8 studs across. None of their 6stud wide panels come without the stud wide walls like older smaller panels did in the 90s. I gave up on th idea of a minified scale van would contain the car. I present to you the 8 stud wide Value van scaled down to match the car's scale. Doc Browns Value van is more difficult than it looks. The film used a P-50 chassis value van from the 1960s-70s, which looks way different than the replacement van P-30 and P-90 models. Finding reference was tougher than i wanted to deal with, but alas some company had an old P-50 value van converted into a food truck in Cleveland Ohio. I took a lot of photos of the engine, undercarriage and interior to get an idea what this thing looked like. The front shape was a more complex design to covert into LEGo so the SNOT techniques are a bit crazy when you take off the slopes in the engine hood. All the partial stud widths in the grill to the flipping plates and upside down parts was rattling my brain. For those interested in seeing my minified scale Doc's Garage build, check it out in my other thread: Doc Brown's 1985 Garage.
  16. cehnot

    Doc Brown's 1985 Garage

    Yes. PM an email to me and I'll get those to you.
  17. cehnot

    Tim Burton's 1989 Batwing

    I have all 4 instructions done. I will do some 3d rendering on the various vehicles for rebrickable. I should have r those done I. The next day.
  18. cehnot

    Tim Burton's 1989 Batwing

    Thank you for your interest. I did make instructions for my revamped batmobile. It contains new 2023 parts. Free on rebrickable. I have finished recently a modified batwing with 2023 parts. I'll make that instructions during the holidays. I have the old studio file and new files if you feel like you want to take them and build it without instructions. The batskiboat has not changed and will not likely change since it already was sturdy. If you want the file PM. 89 batmobile instructions
  19. cehnot

    2023 Majisto GWP

    Check out instagram @peter.g.keith He did one.
  20. cehnot

    [OFFICIAL] 10320 Eldorado Fortress - Available NOW

    I will be adding him to the same ship later, but that torso inspired me to make a new pirate minifigure for my Seven Seas Barracuda.
  21. cehnot

    [OFFICIAL] 10320 Eldorado Fortress - Available NOW

    This is the 2018 Newt's Case of Magical creatures torso. Bricklink sells torsos for less than $2. I picked up a few new torsos when I saw this post this morning.
  22. cehnot

    [WIP] Ship Colors

    I am having trouble deciding on the HMS Camilla colors. I would like help choosing the colors, or modify any part that may need to alter the current colors to make it better. Option A: Primary Colors: Reddish Brown, White Accent Colors: Yellow, Dark Blue Option B: Primary Colors: Black, White Accent Colors: Yellow, Dark Blue Seven Seas Barracuda was completed earlier this week. Photos for the final ship will come later this week.
  23. cehnot

    [WIP] Ship Colors

    Reworked the rear cabin colors. I like the subtle dark blue above and below the windows. I matched the rigging boards to my galleon sitting on the shelf. They are much wider than the older file. I also added a few touched of yellow accents on the front deck. I also made the masts and bow spirit match the Seven Seas Barracuda. I think this may be ready to order parts. 3 mast galleon. 2 jib sails, 2 mast jib sails, a mizzen mast sail and top mast sail above the mizzen sail. Still not entirely sure about the yellow accents on the masts.
  24. cehnot

    [WIP] Ship Colors

    Interior is now white. This should brighten up the interior more than the reddish brown I use in the Barracuda galleon. I will likely change the bed colors to a blue instead of the stripped effect. The file is probably 80-90 percent the same as the ship I built. I modified parts for structural reasoning, so I will likely use the finished ship as reference for those areas rather than try to duplicate it in the file for now. I just need to put together a list of what I have and what I need to order. The white and dark blue parts are definitely something I need. I may update the file with the new masts I build for the galleon with a new color pallet. I am thinking of using some yellow highlights in the mast design.