Tenderlok

Eurobricks Citizen
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    280
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About Tenderlok

  • Birthday 08/07/1976

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  • What is favorite LEGO theme? (we need this info to prevent spam)
    trains

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Oberhausen, NRW
  • Interests
    railway (esp. steam locomotives), aviation, industrial history, music

Extra

  • Country
    Germany

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. Thank you for your kind feedback, @baard and @zephyr1934! It makes me happy that you like my model and its presentation!
  2. Tenderlok

    RoscoPC's Lego Technic Racecar Stable

    So I'll take the liberty... Having already purchased instructions for your marvelous MP4/4, Ferrari 640 and Renault RS10 (but unfortunately not yet found the time to build them), I would absolutely love to see my all-time favourite, the wonderfully handsome 1991 McLaren-Honda MP4/6 (and besides, great Ayrton Senna's last World Championship car). Also, the amiably "rustic"-looking Benetton-Ford B189 would be great, but I fear the colour scheme would be extremely hard to realize in LEGO.
  3. Dear Sergio, thank you very much for your kind words! Sorry if I made you dizzy... Well, buy me a nice 12-room apartment where I can lay 25 m of straight track, and it’s a deal… All the best, Sven
  4. Thank you very much, @LEGO Train 12 Volts, @Laura Takayama and @Pdaitabird! It's 1 stud wider - the wheels are mounted on 7L axles. The locomotive frame, however, is 4 studs wide like on many "normal" LEGO engines. It's a shortened version of a piece called "Kjöbenhavns Jernbane-Damp-Galop" ("Copenhagen's Railway-Steam-Galop") by Danish composer H. C. Lumbye, edited from a 78 rpm gramophone record. A particularly funny modern performance of the whole piece is this one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l8-itpIIZdA
  5. Dear LEGO train lovers, finally, here’s a video of my 0-8-0T on track. It is made in the style of old newsreel films; the title translates as "Flensburger Kreisbahnen present: Test run of steam locomotive No. 1 after the major overhaul in 1935“. Be sure to turn on your speakers! A longer video, with the smoke generator in action and an LGB train behind the locomotive, will follow as soon as I have finished equipping all my passenger waggons with battery-powered interior and tail lights. Thanks for stopping by again! Sven
  6. Hi yannick, First of all, thank you for your appreciation! Unfortunately, my knowledge of the French language is very poor; so please let us continue this conversation in English. If I understand it correctly, you are not able to receive personal messages until you have reached ten posts. So you'll have to let me know your email address or (better choice ) commit yourself here on EB a bit before I can send you the file.
  7. Dear all, Finally I found a comparison picture of the sister locomotive, No. 2, which I should be able to show without getting into trouble (works photo AEG, 1926). The lamp holder on the smokebox was later removed, and the sanding equipment altered. My model shows the No. 1 locomotive after these modifications (both carried out in the 1930s), thus it differs slightly from the photo. Best regards, Sven
  8. Tenderlok

    "Real" Steam?

    Ooops, nearly forgot this thread, sorry... In the meantime, the engine is finished (see here); the requested video is on Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ac6lm0-XT_g (Sorry, but somehow, embedding the video doesn't work.)
  9. Tenderlok

    SJ Da 939

    Lovely rendition of this awesome veteran! What a brilliantly conceived SNOT-work for the locomotive body! The pantographs are also very clever.
  10. Oh yes, I forgot that. The side that is facing downwards during the printing process is much smoother than the opposite one.
  11. Thank you very much, Yann FOURE, Roadmonkeytj and rahziel! @Roadmonkeytj: Well, it might look good in blue, but dark green was the actual colour of the real engine. The rods weren't too hard to do, though in fact these were my first 3D designs. First I googled for the exact dimensions of a Technic pin hole, then played around with Tinkercad for one afternoon/evening, and the basic design was ready. As for Shapeways, first thing to say is that I had the rods printed in "professional plastic", as it was announced to be strong, and it is available in grey. Delivery was very quick, five or six days after the order had been placed, even though the package came from the Netherlands. The fitting accuracy of the parts was good, only two or three pin holes had to be sanded a little bit. BUT: Colour consistency of the "professional plastic" is... ehm... how should I express it... moderate... Especially the long side rods can be nearly white at one end and almost black at the other (well, that's a bit exaggerated, but you know what I mean). I ordered three sets of rods in total, then chose the best pieces. Honestly, the colour consistency, and also the match with LEGO's own light grey, is MUCH better with zephyr1934's rods and valve gear elements, which I'll continue to use for models that don't require as delicate parts as this loco does.
  12. Tenderlok

    Flying Scotsman on BBC!

    Should be this one: https://www.flickr.com/photos/95098254@N04/27649207438/ While being quite impressive, it's definitely not G-gauge, but about three times as big (G-gauge, 45 mm, means 1:32 scale for standard gauge prototypes).
  13. It's indeed quite sturdy, the upside-down mounted "plates with door rails" clutch to the Technic bricks very firmly. As for your suggestion: I already tried jumper plates (and actually used them in a few places where oddnumbers of studs had to be covered, for the plates with rails only come in 2 and 8 studs length), but in fact I didn't like this solution. The jumper plates form a smooth, flat surface on the side of the boiler, which looked too angular for me. Of course, it's something different for your ingenious solution: As the total diameter is much larger, that flat surface doesn't strike the eye. I seems like a great design for a tank car in large scale! Thanks!
  14. Thank you for your appreciation, Bricked1980 and Hod Carrier! Of course the term "humble" refers to the prototype being a small, unspectacular workhorse, not a flashy express train locomotive. I have a soft spot for these "underdogs"... And as you said, @LEGO Train 12 Volts, there's really research to be done. A locomotive MOC typically takes me 4-8 months from project start to the finished model. About one month is needed to find and analyse sources, diagrams, photos etc.; then the collected information has to be transformed into the MOC design, always starting with those sub-assemblies which I expect to be the most difficult ones. As it might be interesting for other builders, here's an example: Close examination and measurement of the few photos and the only drawing I could get of this loco led to the conclusion that the boiler had to be 54 mm in diameter. Well, that was easy regarding the height - 17 plates. But the width was difficult - 7 studs (56 mm) would have resulted in an odd-looking oval shape. It then took me at least a week before I could come up with the following solution (well, maybe just because I was a bit dim-witted): If anyone has a better solution (one without all those "plates with door rails"), please show it - I'd be glad to use it!
  15. Thanks a lot for your appreciation, yanwilma, Asper, Toastie and monai! @Toastie Thorsten, your words mean a lot to me, especially considering what you said about your personal background. I know today's remnants of the Schleswiger Kreisbahn fairly well, as I am a regular visitor of the "Angelner Dampfeisenbahn" museum railway on the Kappeln-Süderbrarup line, which of course formerly was part of Kappeln-Schleswig. Slightly off-topic, but do you know that there's an excellent new book about the Schleswiger Kreisbahn? Highly recommended! @monai Sergio, my friend, thanks for your words. I hope you know that our correspondence is a permanent source of inspiration for me. Regarding your technical question, it's actually very simple: The side rod is attached to the wheels by no. 3673 Technic pins; so with the rod being just under half a stud thick, it can "float" on the free end of the pin (1 stud wide) while the axle shifts.