Eurobricks Citizen
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About Tenderlok

  • Birthday 08/07/76

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Oberhausen, NRW
  • Interests
    railway (esp. steam locomotives), aviation, industrial history, music


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  1. Wagons for DR Class 99

    Thank you very much for this information! The Cricut machines don't seem to be available here in Germany, but the Silhouette ones are. I'll certainly take a closer look at them.
  2. Wagons for DR Class 99

    Oh dear, I'm getting old... Neither my hands nor my eyes would allow me this... That is VERY interesting. Never heard of this technique before. Where did you get that thing? Is it expensive?
  3. Alternative weights?

    It's hard for me to believe that lack of weight is the reason for your problems. If all parts can rotate freely, a non-motorized locomotive should run just like a wagon. Have you checked if the rods can easily turn on the crank pins? Sometimes the holes are a little tight, a bit of sanding will help then. And did you ensure correct quartering (90° crank offset left vs. right side)?
  4. Wagons for DR Class 99

    What a cute little train! And a lovely railway crossing - simple, but effective. As usual, I have a few questions - forgive me... How did you paint the inner part of the rods so exactly, without also painting the rim? On my locos, I chose self-adhesive vinyl tape, as I thought it impossible to apply paint that accurately. And how did you make the "DR" lettering on the wagons? Doesn't look like stickers (I can't see any edges) - is it printed directly onto the bricks?
  5. [WIP] BR 01 513

    Never mind. In German literature, the 01.5 disc wheels are invariably labeled as "boxpok".
  6. [WIP] BR 01 513

    Thanks for the additional pictures! Really great work. I'm wondering which parts you used for the headlights? Do they work? The East German steel industry experienced great problems with casting the boxpok wheels accurately as specified in the design drawings. Many of these wheels were not properly balanced, and they seem to have been prone to cracking. So after a few years, they were generally replaced by normal spoked ones. According to Lucas/Schnabel, "Die Baureihe 01.5", 01 513 had boxpok wheels from 1963 (year of reconstruction) to "at least September 1970". However, the photo you've hinted to proves that she still had boxpok wheels nearly one year later - but she's already lost the side skirtings.
  7. [WIP] BR 01 513

    Very, very impressive! The skirting looks so smooth, and there are so many details. As you're asking for constructive feedback, I'd like to add two remarks: First, as previous posters said, we'd be able to appreciate your creation even more if you could show some more detailed photos. And second, the smoke deflectors seem a bit too big for me. Did you try to reduce their height by one row of studs? (Don't get me wrong - that's just nitpicking, your MOC is great. )
  8. BuWizz "Train" profile not working

    Problem fixed! Completely de- and then re-installing the app has helped, all controls are working again. Phew!
  9. Hi all, When I finally had the time and wanted to make the long-promised video of my 606.76, I found that the BuWizz "Train" profile doesn't work any more after the last update. At first, everything seems to be fine, the app detects the BuWizz and seems to connect. But after pressing the "Start Engine" button, absolutely nothing happens. Restarting the app or the BuWizz doesn't help. The other profiles seem to work properly. Has anyone else encountered this problem and found a solution? Or will we have to wait until the next app update - which would be very annoying, as updates come so rarely, and operating locos with the other profiles is quite inconvenient (the sliders don't lock, and you have to keep your finger on the phone display all the time to keep the engine running). Thanks in advance! Sven
  10. Hi @jesuskyr, Thanks for your prompt reply! Didn't know that files for custom parts are so readily available. One more question: May I add your .mpd to my Bricksafe folder, as a service for those who don't use LDD? Of course, I'd credit you for creating the file. Best regards, Sven
  11. Thanks a lot for your feedback, Phred, ddavid and jesuskyr! @jesuskyr Awesome work! You even incorporated (most of... ) the alterations to the real model, compared with the LDD file. How on earth did you model the custom-made rods? Would you mind sending me a PM with the MLCad files and those magnificent renders? P.S. The transmission has been repaired, video is in the making. Coming soon here on EB - stay tuned!
  12. MOC: E444 mini

    Completely agreed. Thanks for sharing!
  13. Thank you too, igordost and Man with a hat! Update for all of you who are waiting for a video of the locomotive on track: During some test runs this morning, technical problems occured. Probably due to an excess of lubricant, a gear wheel shifted on its axle and caused the engine to stop. Of course, this will easily be solved by installing additional washers to fix the gear wheel. But it means that I will need a few more days, for I have to disassemble the rods, parts of the valve gear and the drive axle, and can only shoot videos on weekends. Sorry for that.
  14. You’re too kind, baard – thank you for your feedback! I’m happy to hear that not only you like the model itself, but also enjoy my photographic efforts. I hope I’ll find the time to make a video next weekend. Regarding the transmission, I’m sure you’ll understand that I don’t want to dismantle the model. But perhaps a render might provide some insight? Actually, the drivetrain’s principle is very straightforward and simple: Well, they are in fact a bit unconvenient to handle as I had to place them so close to one another – the best method is to use tweezers. I chose them because they are less spacious than usual toggle switches, which would have prevented the toolbox doors from being closed. Thank you very much, legobanker! Don't quite know what the term "UCS Train" stands for, though. Please explain it to a dummy like me... As for LEGO Ideas, it's very kind of you to assume that my model would have any chances. However, I'm quite sure they would reject it due to all the third-party elements.
  15. Thank you very much, RogerSmith, RemcoRohaan, _Oceanblue_, Duq and harnbak! The magnetic switches are from Brickstuff, too. They are factory-mounted inside a Technic half-pin and respond to magnetic fields: When a tiny magnet is put onto the switch, the circuit is closed; with the magnet removed, it’s open. I fitted these magnets into the open studs of „flower“ plates, so I can clip them onto an „empty“ half pin when the corresponding light shall be switched off: (From left to right: front headlights - rear headlights - cab/running gear lights, upper position: lights on, lower position: off)