Tenderlok

Eurobricks Citizen
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    299
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About Tenderlok

  • Birthday 08/07/1976

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    trains

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Oberhausen, NRW
  • Interests
    railway (esp. steam locomotives), aviation, industrial history, music

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  • Country
    Germany

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  1. Tenderlok

    [MOC] 2-4-2 Locomotive

    Uh, oh... seems as if I was rather overfatigued yesterday and couldn't think clearly... Forget what I wrote about that. Of course, when the wheels on each side are allowed to travel at their own speed, there will be NO additional strain on the rods, as both sides are independent of each other. BUT without a full-length axle it's impossible to maintain prototypical 90° quartering, so replacing the pins was a good decision anyway... I'm glad you were able to fix the rendering problem!
  2. Tenderlok

    [MOC] 2-4-2 Locomotive

    I had this problem, too, when I first tried the "photorealistic render" feature some weeks ago. Then, in sheer desperation, I switched the "Device" setting from "GPU" to "CPU", and immediately it all worked fine.
  3. Tenderlok

    [MOC] 2-4-2 Locomotive

    That's a cool little model! However, there's one thing I would change: You mounted the drive wheels on pins. This might lead to problems when going through curves, for the wheels on the outer side tend to rotate faster than the inner ones (they have a longer way to travel in the same time). In the absence of full-length axles connecting the wheels on both sides, I fear that this would heavily stress the side rods and could cause "stuttering" wheel motion (don't know how to express it any better, I hope you know what I mean). The results can be quite amazing - I took the liberty to use your .io-file for another render (full resolution here): The settings were: Render quality: Very high Light type: Piazza Intensity: 0.7 Stud logo: On UV degradation: Off Scratches: On; min. strength 0, max. strength 0.1 Render time was ~ 40 min on my notebook. The rendered picture was then edited with Photoshop Elements (especially with respect to colour saturation, illumination and sharpness).
  4. Tenderlok

    O-my, get a load of this MOC

    That is ingenious!!! Apart from the mind-blowing design of the running gear, I'm amazed how you managed to structurally integrate the receiver. I once tried to do a similar thing - and failed, because the receiver's edges were not exact 90° angles, so the resulting strain tore the whole construction apart. Maybe my receiver was B-stock? Did you lubricate the axles? During some tests, I found that lubricating with Teflon spraywas way more efficient than roller bearings - they tended to cant on the Technic axles, thus producing even more friction.
  5. Tenderlok

    Question ... Pf motor drive single axle

    I can confirm that. Even my heaviest and most powerful engine (3 L-motors, 2.2 kg engine weight) runs fine with just one axle driven directly by the motors, the other ones being coupled by the connecting rods.
  6. Tenderlok

    [MOC] 42 FERRARI 312 F1 67

    B-R-I-L-L-I-A-N-T!!!! Don't know what else to say, I'm speechless.
  7. Tenderlok

    Custom Train Wheels Combined Topic

    That's fantastic news! Thank you so much!
  8. Tenderlok

    BR51-761-5 (Octrainber 2018)

    This is one of the above-mentioned ÖBB tenders, and was coupled to the 52 467 at some point in the 1990s. It's basically a "Wannentender" (bath tub tender) with steel-saving, light self-supporting tank and bunker, which was developed for the German war locomotives class 52 and 42. Many of these engines remained in Austria after WW II, where some tenders were rebuilt this way.
  9. Tenderlok

    BR51-761-5 (Octrainber 2018)

    Thank you! Yes, I was talking about those. Didn't remember that these already printed parts existed. P.S. with regard to the cabin tenders: The concept originally came from Austria, where the ÖBB equipped a number of "Reihe 52" 2-10-0s with these tenders. Strangely enough, they seem to have had more positive experiences than the DB - more careful maintenance, perhaps?
  10. Tenderlok

    BR51-761-5 (Octrainber 2018)

    I had already feared that you had given up building German steamers... I'm glad you didn't! Congratulations for another well-conceived model (and of course good luck for the contest)! Als always, I have some questions... How did you build the curved handrails on the tender, and the little "roof" above the door? And how did you make the tender's window frames? These tenders were rebuilt from "normal" ones to accomodate the conductor, thus eliminating the need for a separate caboose on freight trains. The little cabins were equipped with a seat and a desk, so that the conductor could do all his paperwork on the way. While this was quite convincing in theory, in reality the train crews did not like these tenders very much... There was very little space inside the cabins; they became hot during summer and cold during winter; and worst of all, over the years the metal sheets separating the cabins from the water tank often unnoticedly corroded, with the result that water leaked into the cabins. In the end, the tenders mostly ran unmanned, and cabooses were used again. Nevertheless, as money had been spent for equipping the tenders with cabins (and German State Railways were always VERY stingy...), they were not converted back to normal configuration.
  11. Tenderlok

    AT&SF #2926 - 4-8-4 Steam Locomotive

    Ah, thank you for this detailed explanation. I agree that modifying parts is quite the only way to incorporate third-party parts like that. I even had to use glue... [Slightly off-topic] Correct me if I'm wrong, but at least from a European perspective (don't know what models are available in the U.S. ), this seems to be a misunderstanding. In the "Old World", there are 1:35 models (or correctly 1:32) for 45 mm track width, the same that LGB models use; but these 1:32 models are standard gauge trains, and the rails have a much lower profile than LGB ones. By contrast, LGB 1:22.5 models are of narrow gauge trains. However, these narrow gauge models are running on 45 mm track width regardless whether the actual prototype had 750, 760, 900, 950, 1000 or 1067 mm, so it's true that "traditional" model railroading doesn't always care for correct proportions, too... After all, it's the overall impression that counts. Off-topic section finished - now back to your awesome model!
  12. Tenderlok

    AT&SF #2926 - 4-8-4 Steam Locomotive

    This is a truly magnificent build! Lots of details (I find something new every time I look at the pictures) and absolutely stunning building techniques. it is obvious that you spent a lot of time studying the prototype, and you have tremendous skills to turn your knowledge into such a model. Having tinkered with smoke generators myself, I'd like to ask one question: The Seuthe no. 5 is quite bulky - how did you integrate it into the smokebox, and how did you attach it to the bricks?
  13. Tenderlok

    1:25 Eritrean 0-4-0T Locomotive "202 series"

    Very small bits of paper/double-sided self-adhesive tape put inside the wheel's pin hole, in order to prevent the Technic pin (with friction) from twisting. Anyway, I'd recommend to use only 8-tooth gears or 12-tooth bevel gears to drive the axle (doesn't matter if it is the front or rear one): They need less than 2 studs width, so you can still build the frame around them. Frame and drivetrain are in fact the components which caused most of the troubles which I experienced with my models - they need to be very rigid and all gears secured against shifting, otherwise something will break under load. P.S.: The new, larger cylinders really look better!
  14. Tenderlok

    MOC Tank engine locomotive - Knapsack style

    I do! Good luck for the competition! By the way: In industrial shunting service, the real Knapsacks were often operated by one single person, and there were frequent complaints about the cramped cabs, being too small for two-men crews anyway. Seems you've captured this perfectly...
  15. Tenderlok

    1:25 Eritrean 0-4-0T Locomotive "202 series"

    With an odd number of gear wheels between the two motors, both have to run in the same direction; so with one gear wheel coupling them, there's no need of reversing polarity. Are you sure that the locomotive frame remains strong enough? Seems as if you had to take out quite a few bricks to accomodate the gear wheels.