brickostan

Wow. Nice build - and really nice doors. I haven't seen those designs before.

I've never seen any official TLG (The Lego Group) documentation of the Powered Up App functionality. The best documentation I've seen is the one from RacingBrick. But with some basic programming experience in nearly any language, I think that the information provided by RacingBrick is enough to get started. But of course if one doesn't have any coding experience at all it could be a steep learning curve. In such case I would think that a general Scratch tutorial would do it (this is just a guess - the only Scratch-like language I've "written" in is the Powered Up App (and with "written" I mean drag-n-dropped!)). I've tried myself to make a guide describing how I've programmed my automatic train control with the 88007 colour sensor:

G'day I know a lot of people has made metro/subway/underground/tube trains - but I just want to show my take of it. I was inspired by the way the deep tube lines in London and the subway in Glasgow has tunnels that’s just slightly bigger than the trains running in them. So, I’ve tried to mimic that in the way I designed my Lego metro. And the train is equipped with a Powered Up colour sensor 88007 – so it’s able to run back and forth between the stations on my metro line.

Thanks. Yeah, mind the gap - I love those speaker calls when visiting London stations with a curved track.

Ha ha ha. Yeah, I think you are right about Hyperloop. But they wouldn't need to spend money on rescue vehicles/solutions - there would be no injured - everyone would probably die instantly in case of an accident 😜 Sounds hot and steamy

Hmmm... a man with a vision about an underground railway - that ended up becoming something like a carnival ride. I can't stop wondering why someone would think that blowing air into a tunnel would be the best way to get a train to move. Did he think that if it worked on a small postal tubes, then it would also be a good solution on a big trains that weigh 1000 of times more? One would think the energy loss is massive with a pneumatic solution - even a cable car would have been a better solution. It's fun with all these crazy engineering ideas from that occurred between 1800 and 1900. If it works on something the weight of a rat - why shouldn't it work on something the weight of 10 elephants? 😂 But the hyperloop is in a vacuum - so the principles are quite different.

It looks like something taken out of some fictional steampunk universe. Did these things ever run anywhere or was it just some crazy ideas that never really worked in reality?

😁 Isn't commuter rail in rush hour not always "inhumane pack-em-in". I come to think of video clips from Japan showing staff on the platform hired to push people in to the trains so the doors can close.

Thanks 😁 Thanks. Yeah, the way the trains are designed for the tunnels in London still fascinates me At first it wasn't intentional. I played around with the different arch pieces I had - and only if I used 13965 upside down I could get it close enough to the track to look good. But I also like the ripple effect myself Glad you like it 😁 Thanks. The cars a approximately the same width as they are height. It was made this way to fill most of the tunnel. If I made it more narrow it left too big of a gap between the train and the tunnel. Thanks. It depends on which colour you have under the tracks. The flextracks "hides" what's underneath. But it wasn't the primary reason I used flextrack - it was because it had a lot of them that I didn't use - and I only a few normal straight tracks. And I thought that the flextrack wouldn't look too bad in an underground railway.

Thanks. Yeah, it is pretty static (no moving parts) compared to much of the stuff found in this part of the forum. Thanks. And yes, it's hard to make the construction much simpler than this. It's basically just a bunch of triangles to distribute the weight. For a short while I did think about making some kind of suspension bridge, but discarded the idea and made this simple truss bridge instead.

Hi. I just want to show my bridge made up of only Lego Technic parts. Over 1400 liftarms/beams and way over 3500 pins Technic Lego all the way, not a single stud anywhere on the bridge. Even though there’s no studs on the bridge, it’s still 254 studs long – that’s 2032 mm (over 6½ feet). The total weight of the bridge is over 4 kg (9 lbs). If the weight is distributed evenly the bridge can support over 5½ kg (12 lbs).

At least not in this case 😁 The bridge is only made of pieces in two Bricklink categories: "Technic, Liftarm" & "Technic, Pin" No, I bought it all. It summed up to around 240 EUR on a handful different Bricklink orders Yeah, it sags a little. But not too much. I can live it. I have thought of adding some extra pillars in the middle if I'm going add a lot of weight to the bridge. But it shouldn't be necessary if I only add 2-3 kg of vehicles. Yeah, it's not a very interesting build - quite monotone - but long. I'm not a Lego Technic guy, but I just thought I'll post it in here anyway. I had room for three road lanes (each around 7 studs wide) and I thought about different combinations - but ended up making dotted lines between all three roads (here in Denmark you would normally only see a tree road lanes all separated by white dotted lines on a motorway/freeway) Thanks 😁 Thanks 😆 Ha ha ha. Yeah, it's dangerous to live in my Lego city 😅 And yeah, it could be beefed up a little Thanks. I thought about using the new road plates instead, but ended up discarding the idea - if I had to used those the bridge would either be narrower - or too wide to fit in my city. But in the end I settled on trying to make a bridge with only liftarms and pins - some parts that I normally don't use that much in my Lego city - kind of a challenge for my self 😅 I also think the bridge would be way more expensive with other parts - the grey liftarms wasn't that expensive (most of the dark bluish grey liftarms are 11 long - it was the most economical combination)

Ha ha ha. I though: does such a thing exist in real life. But a quick Google search showed that it do. Now I know that. But is it the old smelly slow engine that’s in them, or have they replaced it with something more efficient?

Hi I don't know if this has any interest to anyone, but I tried to make a guide on how to use the Powered Up app to program two trains equipped with the 88007 color sensor to run back and forth on tracks with a passing loop in the middle.

Hi I don't know if anyone has used this technique to create a canopy/roof for a station before. My intention was to make something that looks like Copenhagen Central Station (Københavns Hovedbanegård).

Wow. Looking really good. I really like the roof and the rounded balcony/windows.

Yeah. I have thought of using these curved roller coaster tracks for this since 10261 (with the red tracks) came out. But only now have I build it in real life - the big push for doing it was that they were now available in dark red.

Build something that run on these tracks?: https://www.bricklink.com/catalogList.asp?catType=P&catString=450

Thanks. I was glad to see that Lego realeased them in dark red. But rollercoaster track is one thing, I also needed hinges in that color. At first I looked at dark red hinge plates (2429/2430), but they are rare and insanely expensive (at least for the amount I needed). Then I settled on th hinge bricks instead (3830/3831). ?

Thanks. Thanks. Yeah, but personally I don’t have space for that at the moment. Maybe I should try to find some more space ?

Maybe turning the roof 90 degrees on the other building would make it look even more “Dutch”

Thanks. Yeah, the roller coaster tracks is perfect for that. Originally I wanted to use the red tracks, but when I saw that they were available in dark red, I though it was a perfect match. Thanks. If I had more space in my LEGO city I would. But at the moment I don’t have plans to double it. I will make it a little longer though. Thanks. Thanks.

Really nice locomotive. And if you're into running a danish Lego train layout, you could also use this locomotive (if you change the decals to 220). In 1980 DSB rented some BR 220's from DB. The ones running in Denmark was always run two-and-two - something about not being powerfull or reliable enough. I can't remember which.

I was thinking og controlling a 12V trainmotor from a PF IR sensor (and only giving the motor max 9V). But does anybody know if the PF IR v2 smooth out the PWM, and/or if the 12V train motors can handle PWM. Else I should put a low pass filter between the two.

Nice build. Please post pictures where all sections are assembled. And as some other write: build it in real life.