cb4

Eurobricks Citizen
  • Content Count

    150
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by cb4

  1. cb4

    Bumblebee

    I agree, you should absolutely enter her in BoBS. She's very pretty as-is and you don't need to build an entire ship - there are some that are basically dioramas. I feel for you when it comes to the rigging, sails, and general effort - I came up with an excuse to have the sails furled and brick-built them for the Parakeet to save time. I will never be able to compete with the prolific builders when it comes to scoring, and I don't think it's that important to try. You should build something that you're happy with and post it as a freebuild whether you license it or not. On the other hand, I've found that having a deadline isn't a totally bad thing. Yes, corners get cut, but if I wanted my character to have a perfect ship he'd never get one at all :) For the curvature, I'm wondering if for sharper curves you might be able to do something a little different. One way might be a variation on the rounded tower technique - 1x1 cylinders and 1x2 bricks with tiles SNOTed over it, though I feel this might have unacceptable gaps. Another way that might give you more bend would be vertically staggered 1x2 plates under 1xN tiles going the other way. I'd have to try it and I don't have any bricks on me right now. In either case you might be able to hide the support structure under your deck.
  2. cb4

    [SR-FB] The Parakeet

    Thank you all for your feedback - positive, and especially negative! I do apologize for the photo setup - it is improvised and I need to come up with something better. My MOCing skills aren't that great in many areas - I know a fair amount about ships but not that much about MOCs! Since there is some interest, and since I made the initial post in a huge hurry in order to make the Feb 1st deadline, I've decided to post a few more angles, as well as a partial breakdown to show how she's built. First some stats - Parakeet is 41 studs at the waterline, and has a 13.5 stud maximum beam - so she's somewhere between the big and small prefabs in width. Hopefully these pictures provide a better understanding of her actual shape. And now... let's take her apart. First goes the rigging - I really hope I can untangle everything later :) Then off comes the deck... The hinges are set up in 3:4:5 triangles and attach the hull plating to the keel. The 5 sections with the hinges act as frames, while the plates that form the hull act as stringers. Together they make her very sturdy, even though in most places she is only one or two plates thick! Now we can see what the fish see... As you can see, this technique mostly eats plates, and plates are relatively cheap and come in a wide variety of colours. The Parakeet was built under (by my standards) intense time pressure (completed in two weeks real time, with maybe 16 hours of actual work). I'm really pleased she turned out reasonably well and more or less has the correct hull shape for a lugger of this size. I built her to the minimum size I thought reasonable to try to save parts, and I tried to make her construction as simple as possible (you may not believe this) in order to save sanity. I have another ship which is under construction. When I'm done I will probably post her as a free build (hopefully this is legal within the game - she was started before BoBS came along, but she has never been completed). I doubt I will ever be able to afford to license her, but maybe the Sea Rats might want her as a community vessel.
  3. Oh wow, I love this house! I really like what you've been able to do with relatively basic bricks. I especially like the little touch with the 2x2 round bricks - I would not have thought of that. Whenever it takes a few moments to figure out what you've done and how you've created the illusion of broken plaster over bricks, mission accomplished!
  4. Jan 30th, 615 AE The Oleon Coast Dear Brother, We made our rendezvous with our new business partner today. We rowed in a little after noon, and he was there waiting for us just as agreed. I must tell you it was a little nervous at first, as he is not the kind of person I would normally expect to be dealing with. This man is ideally placed to bring our products to market here. I believe that this will be the beginning of a prosperous arrangement for all parties - but we should be careful. If at some point we are no longer useful to him, I do not think he will hesitate to terminate us as partners. In such a case, we should move first. Your Humble Servant, Richard Walton, Esq I spent the month working on another MOC, so I wasn't able to invest a lot of effort into the intro :(
  5. Maybe market forces (aka supply and demand) should be considered when it comes to trade values. If everyone buys cargo at port A and sells at port B, then I would expect the merchants at port A to sell at higher prices due to high demand, and the merchants at port B to buy at lower prices due to high supply. This would be unprofitable for the merchant ships. The trade value of a port as listed each month could represent the current supply and demand (I feel there should be two values but you could just have one). If a port has a high value, it could sustain more trading (ships visiting) in a given month, but the more ships, the less money they would make. At some point, there would be an advantage to visiting a smaller port if there are less ships trading there. There could also be some depletion/accumulation of trade values for ports that are over/underserved in a given month. A system like this would mitigate the advantage of simply convoying ships between the highest value ports accessible to a particular faction. An independent trader willing to take on more risk could make more money by sailing alone to undervisited ports. I wouldn't want to make things too complicated, but there's a lot of things you could do with this. Historically some enterprising traders would avoid convoying if they had a fast ship as they could get a better price by arriving first.
  6. cb4

    WIP Pirate Frigate

    Well, it has been ages since I've posted anything, but I finally have been working on a new project - and now that it floats, I'm prepared to post a few pictures. This time I'm building something much more european, and it is intended to be a new cruiser for Captain Redbeard to replace the venerable but aging Black Seas Barracuda. In keeping with that theme, I'm going to try to base the colour scheme on the BSB. The hull is pretty much complete (the upperworks should be considered a work in progress and the rigging does not exist yet), so here is the buoyancy and stability test. Naturally this won't be possible once the ship is finished, but in the meantime it is a fun exercise and an interesting photo opportunity. Currently the ship has an extreme beam of 25 studs, and has an overall length of 100 studs. A couple of the wall panels near the stern got a bit knocked about. Oops. She floats surprisingly high and has a nice righting moment.
  7. cb4

    WIP Pirate Frigate

    I guess this is what I get for taking closeups! Allow me to clear up some confusion. I she still doesn't seem the most bluff-bowed of ships, that's because she's not. I took the lines off the Rattlesnake, an American privateer. Apparently, she was very fast. I think it's an appropriate model for a ship commanded by Captain Redbeard. This ship will be bigger than the Rattlesnake, but that's only to her benefit due to a higher hull speed.
  8. cb4

    WIP Pirate Frigate

    Unfortunately I seriously doubt if I can keep the ship stable once it has rigging. The rigging just weighs too much in proportion to the ship. I'm going to try to make everything as light as possible, so there's always hope, but I don't think I can keep the centre of gravity deep enough. Since you can't see below the water line anything due to optical effects, here are some out of water pictures so that the bottom part of the hull can be seen. As you can see, the hull is very deep. There is plenty of room for a minifig to stand up down there.
  9. cb4

    MOC: A busy shipyard

    That's a great idea, if I ever get around to it :) In the meantime, you should check out this thread.
  10. cb4

    MOC: A busy shipyard

    The frame is nearly complete - but what kind of ship is this going to be? And more importantly - who's the buyer? Apologies for all the black bricks- I know it doesn't photograph well - the ship itself is a study model so I can experiment with new techniques. Using a single colour is less distracting for me, and with black I never have to worry about running out of pieces. When I skin the hull there will be ample colour opportunities :) The shipyard MOC is a fun way for me to present something unfinished in my first post. EDIT: pictures resized - I ended up having to use Preview - Flickr's uploader tool's resize does terrible things to image quality.
  11. cb4

    Single Stud Ship's Prow?

    Maybe you could do something with this: If you put that at the bottom of the hull, you could invert your sloped cutwater structure and have it offset. You could fill in the gaps in the hull with bricks. It would be a bit blocky, though, I think. I've been building most of my ships from plans, and surprisingly they've all had prows less than one stud wide so far - that's why I've been using single studs.
  12. cb4

    French Frigate

    I think it's very cool that you're inspired by my technique. You may want to read this post if you haven't already: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=50917&view=findpost&p=907053 It looks like you're putting your hinges wherever is most convenient right now - this may work but it may also cause serious structural issues and stress once you try to plank in the hull because things almost line up but not quite. Here's a picture of a frame I happen to have on hand that may help illustrate how I locate my hinges. Note that my dimensions are not in studs. 10 is one horizontal stud, 12 is one vertical stud. Good luck and keep up the good work!
  13. cb4

    (WIP) MAN-O-WAR - Brick Hull

    I agree with Sebeus, the cutwater as it is called should be two studs wide at the most. I use one stud wide on my models and they're actually wider than scale. I'm looking forward to seeing how you handle the stern. Is there a particular ship you're basing this off of?
  14. cb4

    Capstans and anchors

    This site has a really good explanation of how capstans were used, along with some illustrations and a working model. http://nautarch.tamu.edu/model/report2/
  15. cb4

    WIP: building a brig

    I found this with Google - perhaps it will be of some use. http://zope.mein-media.de/meinmedia/frigate/plans/index.html
  16. How about general dimensions/proportions for various types of ships? When I built my first MOC ship I didn't give it nearly enough beam - it's hard to know how much is enough just from pictures, as most pictures do not show a ship's true width and create an illusion of thin-ness. Even a sleek ship like a schooner has a surprising amount of beam in order to carry its sails. My current project isn't unusually huge by any means, at only 79 studs at the waterline, but it is about 22 studs across at the rail, which is 6 studs wider than one of the prefab hulls. I would never have realized I should go that wide if I hadn't had plans. I realize that it isn't easy to widen out a hull when it's built on the prefab hull sections, but all that room is wonderful and you don't regret it. I could never have crammed in the boats and the cannon comfortably otherwise. I think a really, really useful tutorial would be one on ships of war in general, their rates and designations. Something that explains the difference between a ship of the line and a frigate, a post-ship and a sloop (aka rated and unrated ships), and just how many guns a ship of a certain rating would have. I would also add the cutter to your tutorial, as they were very common and were the most common type of single masted warship.
  17. With my other ship more or less shelved until I can make myself do some sewing, I've started working on a new project. My other ship was more or less built out of my own head, and I'm not confident that I got all the proportions and curvatures correct. This time I'm basing my ship off some plans that I found on the intertubes. Although the plans themselves may be from a French ship (they're derived from a model in a French museum), I think they should be reasonably close to an actual Algerian design. I particularly wanted to build a xebec because they look very exotic compared to traditional european warships, and because I feel that the infamous barbary pirates are woefully underrepresented. I confess that the simplicity of the rigging also appeals to me. Here's what I have thus far. The plans, which include hull curvature There are several unusual features, notably the complete lack of tumblehome. The frame, from above. The bows. The stern. I've matched the sternpost angle from the plans as closely as possible here. It's quite aggressive. From the side. As it's mostly empty space, the frame is quite light. Prototype for the rudder attachment. Comments and criticisms are very welcome.
  18. cb4

    WIP Barbary Corsair Xebec

    The rigging - in particular the yards - weighs too much in proportion to the rest of the model, and destroys its stability despite my attempts at ballast. So I suppose it's never going to be a floating model ever again. There is an interior, but it's mostly empty space. The main deck extends back under the quarterdeck far enough to support the aftermost four guns, but it's all raw structure underneath. There's actually piles of space in there. If you pry up the deck sheaves there's huge amounts of room between the deck and the side planking. Maybe I'll add some rats.
  19. cb4

    Flying Dutchman WIP

    My experience with brickbuilt hulls is A) the keel takes primarily compression loads. B) the deck is in tension, and is as important as the keel. A 74 gun ship (three-decker) could be much stronger than a two-decker 70 gun ship simply because the extra deck gave it more rigidity. When you try to pick up a heavy model it experiences some pretty serious shear at the places you're holding it. My xebec should be picked up by the keel, but as long as you do that it's pretty much indestructible. However, if you remove the deck and the side planking the keel can't even support its own weight. I'm not sure how I would make a waterline model like yours "swooshable". There's no easy way to transmit the weight of the sides to the central structural spine you've created. You might be able to do it with a reinforced bottom, but I'm not really sure. Anyway, I'm looking forward to the next update!
  20. cb4

    WIP Barbary Corsair Xebec

    Yes, I'm not too sure either about the gunports. There are only a few colours available to me for this. White didn't look good, black looks good, if a little uninteresting, and red gives it a nice bit of colour. It's an easy thing for me to change and I probably won't make a final decision on them anytime soon. I just remember how much I liked the BSB's red gunports.
  21. cb4

    Flying Dutchman WIP

    Oh, this is looking so delicious. I absolutely love the shape of the hull and the detailing. Looks very gritty and real. I'm curious, how do you carry it around? Can the whole thing just be picked up without any structural issues? I've had to build stands for my xebec MOC, but mostly because if placed on the ground it wants to tip over and damage delicate parts.
  22. cb4

    WIP Barbary Corsair Xebec

    Yes, but it might be a while since I need to resolve some piece-tolerance issues that have been plagueing me. I make a lot of use of headlight bricks, but when two headlight bricks are attached together with one plugged into the recess of the other, the combination is slightly longer than two studs, with unhappy consequences. This is very bad since headlight bricks are the best way to generate a half plate offset in the same direction, or zero plate offset in the reverse direction. It is possible to avoid this by plugging the headlight bricks together in the opposite way so that they are attached to the back and not the front, but this takes up a lot more space.
  23. cb4

    WIP Barbary Corsair Xebec

    Well, strictly speaking she will not because she is not watertight. However, if made watertight she is at least dynamically stable since she is built to the lines of a real ship. I've experimented with this previously and the hull will float, although rather deeper than I would like due to the weight of the model.
  24. cb4

    WIP Barbary Corsair Xebec

    Finally, another update. Sorry about the background, I just don't have anything more appropriate right now. The sails are temporary - they're paper, but they have the correct dimensions and I've tried to trim the yards according to the plans. I've improved the arrangements of the masts and disposed of the technic plates I was using as guides for the halyards. They interfered with the raising of the yards and didn't look quite right. I've employed my version of catharpins to try to get the shrouds more out of the way of the yards. I finally gave up on a brick-built launch. I'd rather not reveal just how many attempts I made, but I was always dissatisfied with the result. Three boats seems all the better for a surprise attack. The boats are raised above the deck so that they don't interfere with the working of the great guns. The cannon are able to recoil fully even with the boats stowed aboard. I've hired a crew of 40 very bad men, and they're eager for a cruise.