ozacek

Eurobricks Vassals
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About ozacek

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    Claas Xerion

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  1. ozacek

    [WIP] RC Ripsaw SSR1 EV3

    Actually I think I found a solution that solves all problems: it keeps the motors up, the U-joints angles below 45, removes the hard-coupling but still allows to drive the fake engine (via a differential).
  2. ozacek

    [WIP] RC Ripsaw SSR1 EV3

    I still prefer the look of the two L-motors standing up there... (but I might change my mind if it prooves too hard or too weak). I'm not sure I fully understand your suggestion... maybe I need a drawing :) (If you're talking about directly linking the motors' output with the wheels, that's what I first tried, but the angles are too big for the joints).
  3. ozacek

    [WIP] RC Ripsaw SSR1 EV3

    Of course I could do that, but the original vehicle has the motors way up, and I like that look :) Good point... hadn't thought of that :D I guess I would have found out right at the end :) I only got into technic two years ago, and this is only the 2nd time I'm designing something from scratch, so I do still make that kind of mistakes...
  4. ozacek

    [WIP] RC Ripsaw SSR1 EV3

    I came back to this project and made some progress. I raised the motors to be more prominent, fine-tuned the cabin, Improved the stability of the top cover, switched to large sprocket wheels, and fixed all the half-stud alignments (there are quite a few). However I still have trouble with feeding the power to the wheels, since I'm using U-joints and the angles are now too big. Starting by rerouting the axles down currently leads to too much vibration, and heaving gear clicking. Still thinking... And BTW, I previously mixed up terminology: I'm not using a substractor but simple hard-coupling. First there's very limited space at the back, and also one would typically use two motors of different size (which I can't do here obviously).
  5. I see. 7.4V vs 9V is a 20% difference. When I tested, it certainly didn't seem like the Mould King box was 20% slower, so it might be 9V. For now I'm very happy with it. The reason I bought it is because I hate using disposable batteries, and I'm not paying CA$80 instead of $20 for a battery box just because it's rechargable, like Lego charges. I find that outrageous. Also I find it crazy that with Lego, in order to simply drive two big motors on the same port, you need a rare & expensive V2 receiver. That's also unacceptable.
  6. Wow, I also think it looks better than the original! (second time it happens recently, as with 42066 Shark MkII).
  7. I have no setup for make measurement, but here's what I observed: - Speed compared to a PF regular battery box (I don't have a rechargable one): seems to be the about same - Speed compared to AA battery box: also seems to be about the same (but I would except both Lego boxes to run motors at the same speed, no? - the speed depends on the voltage and they're both 9V) - Can it really run 4 L motors and a Servo under load: I guess I'll only be to answer that once I have a big vehicle with 4 motors to test with. I was planning to build Madoca's 8x8 Shaman anyway. - Quality of the app, configuration possibilities: can't answer that as I don't have a smart phone. - Range of control with remote: it works at least accross the entire length of my appartment which is about 12 meters. I could try outside when I get the chance. - Does it have proportional control with the app: again, can't say for the app. Remote buttons are indeed on/off only. But considering all the advantages, if that's the only drawback, I'll take it!
  8. Can't comment on that since I don't have a smartphone. According to the instuctions, if you hold a button pair for 3 seconds, it swaps the direction.
  9. I think it's exactly the same as the Mould King one, which I just started talking about 2 posts above.
  10. (conversation continued from there) @kbalage I've quickly tried the Mould King battery box & remote and didn't observe any particular problem. Is there anything I should be testing in particular? The controller also has an additional interesting functionality, you can combine two outputs at the press of a switch button. Ex. In normal operation button A controls output A and button B controls output B, and if you press the switch, button A controls outputs A & B. So ex. if you have two motors combined on one axle, it allows to dynamically change the power given to that axle.
  11. ozacek

    [WIP] RC Ripsaw SSR1 EV3

    I put too much money into PF components to switch to another system.. plus I don't have a smartphone, so Control+ is a definite no-go for me. I do use a substractor, but still driving each track with its own motor. The reason I have the substractor is to power the fake V6 that lies underneath, and to guarantee equal speed on both sides (slight variations will make the direction drift). I didn't want to power the tracks with the combined motors because then it's double the torque on a single path. I'll most likely make instructions, though I'm using two non-Lego curved 5 x 3 panels in the frame, which will be a problem. I guess I'll modify it to use the bigger sprockets then. The tracks are tight indeed, but I thought it didn't matter, thanks for pointing that out. The reason why I removed one track is because it looked very loose otherwise. I'll try the one-stud offset, or maybe when I change the sprocket size the problem will sort itself.
  12. After @Marxpek 's cool post about the Ripsaw EV1, and seeing the EV3 from the same autor (https://www.renderhub.com/dmitriykotliar/ripsaw-ssr1-ev3), I decided to try to do it. Although not anywhere as extreme, "only" using 2 L-motors. Yesterday I made an early prototype and I think it turned out alright. I still have to fix some colors when I get the parts, and figure out how to do a proper tail wing. I'm using the smaller sprocket wheels and I was wondering, is there an advantage to using bigger ones? They'd give more speed, but that can be achieved though gearing also.
  13. You can see it (and others as well) in the website that Marxpek had posted previously: https://www.renderhub.com/dmitriykotliar/ripsaw-ssr1-ev3
  14. That's one cool-looking tracked-racer! Also I really like the look of the SSR1-EV3, I'm tempted to try to build that one..