Yorick

Hi Madoca, another excellent creation :) Two questions: 1. will 94.8 x 44 R Balloon Tyre fit? 2. Any chance to have simplified version that could use only 2 L motors?

Hallo Madoca, thank you for reactivation - I was running through most of your models recently, so this is good to have some new ones :) So far I've finished CUV (that required some purchases to be stuffed with few older and new elements), and after I'll play it down to the ground :) I'll switch to buggy v3. I' have only few panels in wrong colors, but overall no technical change to your design so far. Generally my impression is good, but somehow I was under impression that while I love your "contraptions" on the functional side the ones on form only are somehow less pleasant - personally for me. The bumpers and doors, while really creating nice look, are bit disappointing on technical side - doors quite often fail to jump into right place and front side bumper that when touched moves also part of headlight lamp is bit too flimsy for my taste. I really like the shape of the roof (rear side "window" being shorter/lower from the front one), but rear doors (hatch) does not positions perfectly. I hope that this critics will not offend you - that is really not something I would like to do, as the overall design and playability is really pleasant. I just hope that some of the comments would halp you to do even better MOCs - up to the limits of Lego pieces. One note on the drivetrain - while still not having sbrick nor something similar I use here combination of PF IR v2 receiver with custom battery (from RC models). Therefore IR v2 is the only limiting the current - as the battery inself is capable of delivering current way higher - and the voltage is not 7.4 but rather above 8V. There are no problems with gears - no cracking nor bending/blending of gears. I have tested it with alternative 3 cells (11,1V) pack, with real voltage over 12V when fully charged. It works great, way to fast for smaller indoor use :) The smaller 2-cell pack fits into loading space nicely, leaving room for connecting/disconnecting cables:

One warning - do not try to use the Technic, Gear 24 Tooth (Old Style with Three Axle Holes) - I tried as I do not have the initial one axle one. In result I've got broken gear and had to disassemble the whole model, as access to it is pretty tough. Well I did another one in result, but still - be careful :)

True, still this is the Technic subforum... well, and Mindstorms and Model Team, but it still probably fits more to the system Lego not here. I judge in that context.

There are many better solutions on the market, just take a look on these Sariel's reviews:

Comparing this to Sbrick the main difference are connectors - original ones in Sbrick, custom adapters here. Knowing the cost of original connectors (~7 Euro per piece) and knowing that there is no real alternative (even on aliexpress) this is the major cost issue there - extra 3,5 Euro per connected device (cable from lego cut in half resulting in 2 connectors - with only one of them bidirectional, as one has 9V / 2x2 stud connector). That is exactly the case that I consider upon doing own board (with friend / for own use) with tiny BT chip and some small CPU. Finally all these are similar, but the choice of BLE in Sbrick was not the best one - still BT seems to be better suited to cope with proportional steering of multiple engines, and additional steering / sensors. Actually androids from 4.0 or 4.1 has the same BT stack delivered by one company (and ~ open source) so the bottom of the Andoid app should not be that hard to do. Apparently it is more upper layers of an application that sbrick team is not really focusing. I'm just curious that neither these nor sbrick does not allow any generic sensors - even with some small Operating systems it should not be a problem. For me the situation now looks like that: - SBrick - most easygoing solution, yet pricey, with unclear status vs lego patents, slow progress on android, and still some issues on IOS (and my IPAD is not that handy as andoid mobile) - BlueSmartControl - not yet there, potential issue with connectors (extra adapters require some space in MOC), but more advanced for some scripting - LEGO - sleeping? - own solution - least elegant, but with some cheap 3D printer it should reach acceptable design, the toughest to play with, but most flexible for customization. Actually I'm just wondering why there is no open source SW/HW for that purpose yet? Or is there something? Found that: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=87340

Thanks a lot - these long axles are the worst guessing out of generally great pictorial building instructions from Madoca. Update: I Have now finalized the build and find it generally very nice - with some minor issues: - suspension is rather limited both in high and low positions - for larger torque the 2 speed gearbox seems to be the weakest point (and differentials come second) - it is visible on 7,4V without current limitation (custom 2-cell LIPO) and especially when engines are powered with higher voltage (3-cell lipo with 11,1V).

Hallo, Could I ask for small hint on the length of the black axles on these pictures (are there both 8 studs?): https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/117021167471864977943/albums/5922727481712223793/5922728557603216930?pid=5922728557603216930&oid=117021167471864977943 https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/117021167471864977943/albums/5922727481712223793/5922727626397469714?pid=5922727626397469714&oid=117021167471864977943

With custom LIPO (from local RC shop) I just do not want to have any limitations on current, as the standard lego battery box limitation is also away in this setup. I guess it would be still ok with all 3 engines working concurrently, but just prefer to have margin :) I seldomly use alternate 11,1V 3 cells LIPO (similar size but thicker), when pursuing for speed. I am still lacking precise steering, tried with speed control transmitter, but that does not work too good. So I have plans for some device - either own/colleague design or some sbrick/similar 3rd party solution.

Hallo Madoca, thank you for this nice MOC - I really like that it's look and playability. Only downfall for me is that it is fast and fragile (links are the weakest spots), so smaller flat is poor playground :( One notice though - there is some inconsistency in instruction on the rear suspension central axle - actually it's mounting to the main body: 1. Here we have only one mounting point: https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/117021167471864977943/albums/6035543696694106849/6040044678443696562?pid=6040044678443696562&oid=117021167471864977943 2. Last picture before attachment to the body: https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/117021167471864977943/albums/6035543696694106849/6040045118666921586?pid=6040045118666921586&oid=117021167471864977943 3. In final overview it is visible that it has double mounting* axle: https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/117021167471864977943/albums/6035543696694106849/6035545722221158962?pid=6035545722221158962&oid=117021167471864977943 *Part list also lists only 2 LBG "Technic Beam 1 x 3 Thin" while last picture seems to contain 4 of these.

Hi, Thanks a lot for this MOC :) I had to play a bit with the colors to complete it and have some issue as I do not yet own pins 15100. I'll upload my "painting" later on today. Still either I missed something or the manual does not cover the IR receiver placement? Correct me if I'm wrong. I've seen you play with sbrick, but the regular (V1/V2) IR is the only option for me now. Additionally I use loading bay to contain custom lipo battery+connector that are the only non-original Lego parts in my version - it fits quite nicely. Front: Rear: Power:

For me return to Technic occured this year with one week with borrowed 42030 and purchase of 42009. Now the crane done I'm heading towards Jurgen's Ultimate but missing still lot of parts, as my old ~1989 sets even as flagships do not help too much here...

Hi, just finished my crane today and also noticed the same 0 so either we made the same mistake or there is something wrong there - yet it is only ~1 mm of difference in my case - and the boom rests between the parts preventing it to move to the side. You can gran the fron axle with the hook and get it down... Still the LAs are mounted correctly to the boom...