LiLmeFromDaFuture
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Everything posted by LiLmeFromDaFuture
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[Model MOC] T-47 Airspeeder (Snowspeeder)
LiLmeFromDaFuture replied to LiLmeFromDaFuture's topic in LEGO Star Wars
Indeed, this is certainly a bucket list-er—glad you like it. -
[Model MOC] T-47 Airspeeder (Snowspeeder)
LiLmeFromDaFuture replied to LiLmeFromDaFuture's topic in LEGO Star Wars
Thank you. It is quite a novelty that such was accomplished on such a small scale. -
[Model MOC] T-47 Airspeeder (Snowspeeder)
LiLmeFromDaFuture replied to LiLmeFromDaFuture's topic in LEGO Star Wars
Much appreciated. Good to hear you found the multiple stores selling light gray ingots. But hey leave some for me! Because I need quite a bunch for my upcoming AT-AT and AT-ST ! -
[Model MOC] T-47 Airspeeder (Snowspeeder)
LiLmeFromDaFuture replied to LiLmeFromDaFuture's topic in LEGO Star Wars
Your very welcome, but what is there else to approve upon? Perhaps you could implement your own canopy that slopes, a sloped heat sink, maybe even include a working winch like others have, a detailed cockpit like others have, a detailed bottom accurate to the studio models, or feature yours in a gray color scheme? -
[Model MOC] T-47 Airspeeder (Snowspeeder)
LiLmeFromDaFuture replied to LiLmeFromDaFuture's topic in LEGO Star Wars
Your enthusiasm never ceases to delight me in my accomplishments. Perhaps you did not notice this photo, but the bottom flaps are fully opened and the top are slightly opened: Physically you open it by lowering the 2 x 2 traffic sign, which the design is secured by the wings. It should flow smoothly down, but sometimes it drags its side of the heat sink with it—simply push that side back in place. The cockpit can fully opened—at the sunroof that is. When photographing this feature I did not do so because it can look quite weird. Then if you wish to place the gunner in the back, simply squeeze the rear windscreen and easily pull up, as it's only connected to two studs on the body. -
Update everyone: Head over to the official page here for new photos, with the heat sink completed, and the LDD file.
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Much appreciated as always. I am in the process of finalizing the model with the necessary revisions and needed parts to finish a few incomplete parts (such as the heat sink, lower air brakes, and thrusters). Afterwards, new photos will be made, as well to be featured in a new topic, and guarantee, without any further delay, the file will be available (free) to everyone who would want to download.
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Glad you like the color scheme. One would even consider it a scaled-down version for minifigures. I don't know what is your preference for snowspeeders, white or light gray, but white elements were readily and even available, as opposed to gray. Though my primary reason was that gray looks completely terrible paired with the bright orange!
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Thanks Anio. With the heat sink, black was too stark of a transition from the bright, new, white bricks. It can detract attention from other aspects and highlights of the aircraft. Black as well would not match the dark grey grille pattern of the repulsor units, and would also blend undesirably with the black stand. Additionally, with black, the spaces between the heat sink would not be easily perceived, because the black elements cannot easily cast shadows upon themselves, hence its dark color. Most of the elements for the repulsor units and the heat sink are exclusively in dark grey. This was a stylistic preference to highlight these aspects of the model in a respect to have being weathered down by heat—therefore why I chose these older colors. 2 x 4 tiles would be a more stable. In fact, I actually use them in place of the 2 x 2's on the LDD file. However, 2 x 4 tiles do not come in dark grey. I hope this answers your concerns, Thank you.
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Yes. Recently, I have covered up a few gaps between the wings and heat sink, as well as block the lower air brakes, so the connection will not disconnected upon repeated use.
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I concur. I favor Episode V apart from the others in the Original trilogy for a list of reasons—mostly for the Battle of Hoth scene with T-47s against AT-ATs. However, It was discontenting there was a lack of large scale battle nearing the end of the movie like the others—though it was nice that it started with one at the beginning unlike the others. But anyway, I appreciate your admiration for this snowspeeder and I will continue to exemplify the highest degree of fidelity as far as detailing is concerned—this will be exhibit on my upcoming AT-AT ModelMoc.
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I wanted to make a new topic that's based on the actual MOC, not the LDD design process. Perhaps doing so, the snowspeeder would qualify it to be showcased on the front page for everyone to see and enjoy.
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I wanted to release it when I have received the last parts to finish the heat sink and upload it in a new topic. But I might release it before that when this topic reaches 7 pages (with only 5 more comments to go)—to signify a state of accomplishment. Though I am still making revisions to the model and then doing the same to the file. Specifically, I am filling in exposed parts, and decreasing the part count.
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Beautiful—excellent work.
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Especially simple—only 30 pieces (all rather common).
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Thanks hachiroku! That unique 1 x 2 tile near the tip of the right wing is a light blueish gray gold ingot bar (99563). It hasn't appeared in any sets (it's perhaps a prototype color), but most of the stores selling them have quite an abundant quantity.
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Almost finish with the file and perhaps release tomorrow evening (EST). Thanks!
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Here is the snowspeeder on the display stand: The stand is fairly simple. It is comprised of 28 pieces and is sturdy. The four finger-like structures clutches the rib-like section located on the underside fairly tight. When attached, the snowspeeder will not slide off or merely wobble. The stand can not be easily toppled—unless intentional force is applied. For easy use, the snowspeeder can be attached and detached quite smoothly. Interestingly, the snowspeeder can not even detached from the stand while under the force of gravity when held upside down. One thing is for sure, I need to get a different color background
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It snugly clutches the underside of the snowspeeder (and is easily detachable), I'll have photos to show some time on. It can't fit any other ships, as I made it exclusively for the snowspeeder, and I have no other ships in my collection.
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That could possibly work . Personally, I prefer it over the ball joints. Once I get to progressing with my AT-ST, I might implement those if the t-bars are of no use. But find out what works for your AT-ST. Nice work Smitty I am fond with the shape of the head—greatly reminds me of the version from ROTJ with its stockiness. Like this image: link
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Here is my stand for the snowspeeder… Which one do you find preferable than the others: first, second, or third?
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Given the limited possibilities presented here, I believe it's up to discover what supports the weight of the waist/hip & head of the walker. I never heard of "bit-directional"—perhaps a link please? Technic pins with friction ridges would not work so much. I second more pics.
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Detaching it increase chances of fracturing dramatically, but over exerting it with constant moving can weaken it overtime (because it doesn't have time to rest). But I assume you will have it mostly on display—so it won't be so much of a problem if make a few tweaks here and there. If you insert the t-bar into modified bricks with stud(s) on them, they can be quite resilient. But the problem is, what many parts are there to make a joint that's long enough for your walker (there is technic 1 x 5 thin liftarms with axle ends, but they might not be long enough and can fracture fairly too)? Good to hear the proportions are coming out to your liking. Honestly, the 5 x 5 scala dish is your best bet. I feel it's the correct size for the head.
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It sure does! Besides that, have you seen my recent comments in our conversation?
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Ooh great start so far! I love the use of that hinged leg joint for the lower shin despite its inaccuracies—it looks sturdy. Don't be fooled by those ball joints! I know they're convenient, but I don't think the leg part connecting them will support the weight so well in the long term. Those leg joints can be a hit and miss game—you wouldn't know which ones are more robust than the others. Plus the ball cups are prone to fracturing (trust me I have many Bionicles with those joints, most which are scrapped because of that issue) I too have seen that outrageously posable AT-ST on IDEAS. Honestly those poses can not be preformed by an actual AT-ST. You could used this t-bar piece (4697b), but perhaps this is more appropriate for a AT-ST on a smaller scale. Here is a blueprint of the Return of the Jedi AT-ST: Link It has the dimensions, which could be useful, if you can read them.