Legopold

Eurobricks Vassals
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About Legopold

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  1. Hi Donald, you will need to bend the circle so you end up with a shape resembling a spiral. This is only possible by putting some stress on the elements. For various reasons, this type of building cannot be realized in studio. So I suggest to just buy the parts and start building it with your hands. I am sure there are many solutions how to build a full looping. You can find my take on building a double looping in this thread. More pictures are available in my flickr album. Have fun! Arnold
  2. Awesome! Thanks for sharing, zagdima.
  3. Hi zagdima, these part designs are very interesting, especially the loops. Thanks for sharing. To be able to put four of the 90-degree pieces in a row, it will be beneficial to insert a small twist into each section. Just enough, so that the beginning and the end of the loop will be parallel. Without that twist, you will need to put some serious stress onto the pieces which is difficult to achieve with clutch power alone. Also, if the standard lego cars cannot handle the 90-degree-pieces, I suggest to increase the radius of the loop. Lowering the bars will probably not be sufficient because most likely you will also need to lower the 1x2 studs at the beginning and the end of each section (which will carry a 2x2 tile!). And it is not clear to me, what exactly you plan to do with the twisted short straight piece (the second pic in your last post). Do you have something special in mind, e.g. to use several of those in a row? The latter would only be of limited use because the cars do not work too well when driving sideways or upside down. I am looking forward to see some photos of your first working loop. :)
  4. Thanks for your reply, zagdima. So you are printing the bent track? There are also people out there who bend LEGO railway tracks using a heat gun.
  5. The car looks interesting. I suppose it is not easy to print a smooth surface suitable to take up the axle and wheels, so I wonder if you have any issues with increased friction. Do you also print the axle and wheels or do you use the ones from Lego? And do you bend straight track or (also) other track pieces? I'd like to see the bent track.
  6. Hey, I was working on a roller coaster last year and finished most of the ride. Since I somehow lost interest in it, I decided to show you the progress so far before I dismantle everything. I'd like to point out that I cut some coaster track pieces for this MOC, see here! Poor LEGO pieces, I hope you can enjoy the coaster nevertheless. The whole coaster is built on two 48x48 baseplates. The coaster is 76 bricks high. To cramp everything onto two baseplates, I used a very steep ramp using customised pieces. Click for a VIDEO For the dive, I used two curved pieces as proposed by others. The big looping consists of unmodified lower ramp pieces, while the steep curve was built of modified ramp pieces (see above): The white platform was decorated with some shiny pieces by my 5-year-old daughter. ^^ For the two smaller loops, I used standard curves, a technique similar to the dive section depicted previously. The chains used for the ramp had to be diverted to work. Still, the chains do not run as smoothly as desirable but most of the time they are doing their job. For the upper part of the ramp, I again used modified parts. Obviously, I did not achieve optimum results but it works. Also, I'd like to share a 100% legal version of the double looping which was not depicted in the previous pictures. It reminds me of the large hadron collider: You can find more photos in the flickr album. I hope you enjoyed it.
  7. I customised the LEGO roller coaster piece Ramp Large Lower Part, 6 Bricks Elevation (26559) by a single cut. The resulting two pieces can be used to form long ramps or steeper ramps than possible by the initial piece. First, you use some of your old pieces to fit prepare the rail for cutting. You need some plates, bricks and clips: Use some sandpaper to smoothen the cut. For the steep ramp, you need first these pieces: Add the rails to obtain the steep ramp: The resulting curve is smooth. It can be used to create a steep curve. If you want to create a looping, be aware that it does not form the complete quarter of a circle, so creating a complete loop will be somewhat difficult (although not impossible). You can combine the new pieces with straight pieces to obtain long (standard) ramps, something which is not possible at the moment for the grey rail pieces, as the pieces needed for the ramp are only available in red. First, you need these pieces: Add the rails to obtain this: If necessary, the two pieces you obtained after cutting can be put together to obtain the initial ramp. Use these pieces: resulting in: Of course, the resulting piece is not as sturdy as before but can still do the job. I hope, you found these instructions useful. You can find more pictures in my flickr album.
  8. Legopold

    [HELP] Buying RC Train Track

    Hi EZ, you can get cheap track with very decent quality from Aliexpress, e.g. here: Link I have bought there twice and was very happy with the quality of the track and the delivery as well. I'd like to note that from my understanding bulk bricks/tracks like these do not infringe the IP of Lego.
  9. I bought 5 packs of straight tracks from that seller and found the quality to be remarkably good. The only differences to LEGO track I observed was a slightly different color (barely noticable) and a somewhat lower clutch power between the track segments. The latter is no problem at all, the track is just not as tightly connected as the LEGO ones. Some customers on Aliexpress complained about bad packaging and broken or warped pieces being delivered. I had no problem at all. All pieces were intact and perfectly flat.
  10. Legopold

    Train Axle Making Jig

    @dr_spock: Good work. I once tried to make my own train axles, too, because I found the original LEGO ones quite expensive. I ended up buying axles for a good price from this seller from AliExpress. The axles fit perfectly into the LEGO wheel holder. The axles have quite good quality (correct dimensions, straight and even). The only difference from the original LEGO ones I noticed are slightly uneven endings but that did not affect the function of the axles. I had no problems to fit them into the MR52ZZ (2x5x2.5mm) ball bearings which I bought from another seller at AliExpress. 60 axles including shipping cost only 5.20$, which I consider a really good offer.
  11. @Hod CarrierI believe designing the pivot points to carry the weight will be a major challenge. Maybe the small technic turntables can do the trick? I am looking forward to see your solution. Good luck!
  12. @Hod Carrier Thanks for your elaborate answer. Interesting, I had expected that increasing the distance between center beam and wheel axle would make the bunching less a problem. After thinking through your setup for a while I am concerned about something else. If you start building something on top of the centre beam, the whole weight will last on top of the two pivot points located at both ends of that beam. Since the axle cannot take the weight directly, the pins will suffer some serious stress and increased friction with increasing weight. I wonder, if your setup will be suitable for bigger (heavier) cars.
  13. Hello, thanks again for sharing your work in such detail. I noticed that you actually have two pivot points. One is connected to the buffer section and one is connected to the center beam. I suppose that the distance between the axle and both of the pivot points will have a big influence on how well the system works, including "bunching". Did you consider to change those distances?
  14. Interesting attempt to tackle this issue. Thanks for showing.
  15. Legopold

    Functional Coach Corridors (Technique)

    Hi Aaron, excellent idea! What I like best is that your soultion is quite simple and does not require rare parts. Great job!