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Everything posted by scynox

  1. I hope not, I would prefer other colors. also why do you say 2022? we had 42110 at 2019 and Lambo at 2020 so why not another big licensed set for 2021? maybe Ferrari is a set to align with Land Rover but not 42096? is Land Rover not considered UCS?
  2. looks very disappointing that there is nothing worthy unless you want cars. I also do not think they shall have any special/unique mechanisms or parts. I don't believe the ferrari shall have any gearbox. only suspension, fake engine and HOG, maybe open hood/trunk/doors manually, just a usual lego car (besides Ultimate cars). my reference is 42096, it shall be identical with every aspect. or it shall be source of "single use" panels to make view better. I hope I am wrong on that assumption. I would love to see something "technically" interesting among those cars. If I am allowed to speculate, ferrari shall be "Ferrari 488 GT3", competitor of 42096 car. according to some sites I saw new 488 GT3 EVO 2020 is introduced in late 2019, so it is maybe time to introduce a lego ferrari for that car.
  3. yes and no yes: less parts due to bricklink orders slowing down, also I lowered my spending on lego. no: before pandemic (start of this year) I got used to digital modeling. now I use %90 time on digital modeling, LXF and also since my office is very very close (next room to bed) now I have less worry about getting up early for the daily commute. for example I can stay long after midnight and get up for work in time. basically I have more free time actually. I am not spending entire time for lego of course.
  4. scynox

    Technic 2020 Set Discussion

    some of them seems to be up and available in Bricks & Pieces. I checked rotor blade and it was out of stock but DBG panels seems to be available, likewise tapered orange 5x11 panel. there are no images available for osprey parts for now. maybe they shall be added later. set search gives no result but parts can be searched individually.
  5. scynox

    [MOC] scynox's workshop

    updated first post with Zaibatsu. I shall call it completed. I still need some parts for decoration but nothing blocking. implementation of this art size in stud: 53 length, 30 width, 14 height (low) tire reference: 8070/42096 IO file at bricksafe features: - RWD - independent suspension - adjustable ride height (low clearance is 1.5stud, high clearance is between 2-2.5 stud) - V8 fake engine - 4speed sequential gearbox, operated with lever - doors open, front hood open - HOG and working steering wheel (from roof, right), second is for adjustable ride height (middle) cheers
  6. Hello, all of the MOCs I have been working on and some ideas. Ordered from latest to oldest Current projects: Same Dragking but in different style, takes forever. lots of functions packed inside GTA 2 B-Type Car (old style classic car) basically this: scale shall be 42096, same wheel arches black one is build in below posts. the blue one is trash, for now. Borderlands Bandit technical (from B3) bigger scale, using Claas Xerion tires, no design at all, just plans COMPLETED MOCS Zaibatsu, GTA2 Z-Type Rebrickable: Bricksafe: RC Red Dump Truck Rebrickable: Bricksafe: 1950 Chevrolet 3100 Wrecker (intended for TC18 but I changed my idea) Rebrickable: Bricksafe: RC Caterpillar Bulldozer Rebrickable: Bricksafe: Scania Truck (same scale with Arocs 42043) Rebrickable: Bricksafe: and a container & trailer for the Scania truck Rebrickable: Bricksafe: Small Scale Supercar Rebrickable: Bricksafe: Small Pickup (same scale with my Sandero and other small cars) Rebrickable: Bricksafe: a trailer for the pickup, and a boat to carry :) Rebrickable: Bricksafe: Small Roadster (same scale with my Sandero) Rebrickable: Bricksafe: Exotic Supercar "Dragking", RC with SBrick Rebrickable: Bricksafe: Sandero Stepway (a little larger than 42022 in scale) Bricksafe: 1970 Fiat 124 (42022 scale) Rebrickable: Bricksafe: Classic (1969) Chevrolet Camaro (42022 scale) Rebrickable: Bricksafe: Old MOC: Ford Focus (own thread ) Bricksafe: Old MOC: Lamborghini Gallardo (own thread Rebrickable: Bricksafe: Old MOC: Borderlands Game Vehicles own thread Both have suspension and various weapons (barrel thrower, rocket launcher etc) Rebrickable (Bandit Technical): Rebrickable (Runner): Bricksafe (Bandit Technical): Bricksafe (Runner): cheers
  7. hello everyone, maybe it is a stupid question but I could not find an answer online. neither search forums helped me about an idea. I am preparing instructions of a technic theme MOC with 2100 pieces total, using actually it is done/complete. problem/question is the file size I get with it is huge. I created the PDF using in 330 pages/530 steps and the output of PDF is around 200MB. I checked various PDFs from other modders and I see sizes around 20-50MB in very good image quality while PDF quality is only good if 2x or higher is selected but file size is 200MB or higher even then. I looked into PNG compression tools briefly. I exported images from, compressed the images myself and made a PDF, still file size is 100MB total. page count is same, image size is 1684x1190, kind of good quality I would say. am I missing sth about a compression? I tried another tool (lpub) and it generated 200mb file like (but open 650 pages of PDF instead). I am not familiar with Lpub so I am not sure if I managed to do it proper way. what is the expected file size of PDF instructions if a fullsize A4 is used like does? is 100MB file size accepted for a 330 page instruction? thanks
  8. @Mylenium @SylvainLS @supertruper1988 thanks for answers. currently I am looking into (mass) image processing tools (pngquant and magick works quite fine for now) to convert the images to jpg. here is a sample page which is over 7MB with Studio 4x but I can compress it to 440 kb in jpg format. I use pdf24 to create PDFs and it generally does not add overhead to PDF size (PDF size is generally less than %2 more compared to total image size). not every page is like that, this is one of the biggest pages in size. most of the pages have multiple smaller steps. still if I have 300 pages total and average is 400kb file size then the total file would be over a 100MB. is that normal? that is my main question in the topic actually.
  9. scynox

    [MOC] scynox's workshop

    thanks for feedback guys, I am also undecided about the grill (and other side items in white). since lego does not have the mentioned pieces in chrome, we need a substitute. I feel white is better than LBG or yellow in a black car but just my preference. Here is full LBG and yellow build: grill and white items are changed to LBG (got rid of soft axle under doors and made windshield full black). for yellow I only changed grill if you have spotted the grill uses 8 of #32126 and they are used to connect the entire grill to car. four of them can be hidden as they are at bottom but other four are at third row from top. there is no other angle available to connect to car so I had to use the mentioned items in white since it is common. white: engine shaft is not available, also #32250 3x5 thin quarter elipse beam is rare yellow: #32126 is not available LBG: 3x5 thin quarter elipse beam and #32126 is rare. and color is dull I would say this is from ingame view I am not sure what should be a good color next to a full black car. I planned seats as yellow for example and white for chrome based parts but only engine shaft is the issue. maybe I can make them LBG and grill can be white as full just like the first render from above post. that is another topic but cost-cutting is also hampering the design a lot. the car uses 8070 hubs for better suspension but they are expensive as hell too. I replaced them with high new black hubs but now suspension movement is reduced a lot. lots of to think when it comes to build and order from bricklink. cheers
  10. scynox

    [MOC] scynox's workshop

    @MinusAndy thanks, they are old mocs and can be built better now I guess. here is another MOC almost complete (hood needs rework and seats missing because my planned seats did not fit). I need to build this in physical, just axles and gearbox is there for testing. also I need some parts to order I call it "Zaibatsu", just as a fictional name. the car is from GTA2, and it is called Z-type. it does not look like this since GTA2 was from top view. I found this at Artstation drawn by someone else. I just tried to replicate it in lego. the car is supposed to look like below: he has provided side view and top view so I used them as blueprints. the car (in game) is supposed to have V12 engine and 4speed gearbox. I was only able to fit V8 but I have sequential 4s gearbox. other features: openable doors, and most probably hood RWD lego V8 fake engine 4s sequential gearbox, shifter with lever (nothing fancy, could not fit anything better) HOG and working steering wheel adjustable ride height, at lowest suspension moves car half stud only and clearance is 1.5stud (1stud if pressed, locked before moving beyond this), at highest clearance is around 2.5/3 stud and suspension can move a lot. (unnecessary feature but I like it). renders are at lowest state but I suspect car shall lower a little more due to slack and maybe weight car is 1:10 (8070/42096 wheels) supposed to be 52stud length, 15stud max height, 29stud width, at least in LXF it is like that. it is done according to blueprints (images from the source above), car is supposed to be bulky once I build in physical I shall share photos and LXF/IO files as well: feedback is welcome, cheers
  11. scynox

    [MOC] scynox's workshop

    updated the first post with everything I have and currently working. I shall try to keep this up to date unless I get away from lego again. there are many small bits and pieces lying around but not worth mentioning.
  12. scynox

    Axle Collection Thread

    here is a failed design of small scale front axle (partially virtual pivot steering). my intention was to make it driven, put suspension and also keep it 15stud width total with tire (from Mack anthem). it ended as below, not so good. usable if expectations are low. There is huge slack all over the axle and turning radius is terrible. the Z arms do not turn too much so steering is not so good. main slack comes from the 3L blue thin beam. I could not replace it with a better thing (the end has to go inside the wheel to make it 15stud, otherwise it is impossible with CV and diff) more photos in bricksafe. maybe someone can use the idea and make it better (or already done better)
  13. hello guys, I made a raisable axle using a small linear actuator. it works fine and raises suspension by almost 1.5 stud and suspension still works which is nice. problem is the linear actuator's internal clutch. it pops up due to suspension press force if I manually press suspension for too long another angle principle is moving suspension's connection to axle's interior or outside to create a different angle on suspension which makes the wheel arms to raise or lower the wheel. suspension is not fixed, it moves and suspension shall work in low or high mode which is a requirement (I want it that way). now if I press suspension (half stud 6L beams or wheel) then the LBG #44809 (the shock absorber and frictionless pin is connected to it) shall move towards interior (middle of axle) which shall press the 3L red beam to forward. it is going to force the linear actuator to pop forward, and it does unfortunately. obvious answer would be to change direction of linear actuator, which is going to be ugly but possible. yet the same problem shall be there. this time pressing the suspension shall push the actuator's arm to inside. my questions? * I think I shall stick with this design (using small LA) because of compactness and it really does not pop up frequently. it rarely does when applying full force. I am thinking of changing direction (linear actuator shall be at opposite side) but shall this help? is actuator's internal clutch (or internal parts) have more force to prevent the arm to go backward or forward? * funny part is, I used linear actuator for fun and I trusted its internal clutch, holding power. it does not have much power it seems. It only needs to go forward 1.5stud at most and it is enough for suspension. alternate 1: worm gears with axles with stoppers? alternate 2: using linear actuator to create a more powerful but shorter movement and apply the power to the LBG pin through a beam (where in image LA is connected) what do you suggest? is small LA really that weak or did I break it during tests? cheers
  14. we have cam already :) and it does not take too much space at all. in fact instead of the T beam I can put two technic cams in opposite direction and rotate it which can extend to 3L and retract to 2L. unfortunately the movement is little, half stud per wheel, not enough to extend the suspension. still a very good idea and can be applied for compact suspensions which I shall try for sure. not at this scale but maybe smaller wheel/tire options and different setups. thanks for reminding this. when you press the suspension it creates an additional force which is applied to LA. at that point LA pops up (due to the additional power applied to suspension). it only happens when you are testing suspension for example.I already said it in first post. LA pops up when I press suspension. it does not pop up when vehicle is stationary. I prefer the machinery to work in every position, not only in up/down situations. just personal preference. that is the challenge and fun. it is nice to watch it running slowly and smoothly and also working on every position. just like the wheel of the plane but not entirely functionality wise. your plane wheel must be on or off, just like a car door but a car height can be adjustable at various positions. when you put a steering wheel or HOG to your car, do you only turn it to max or do you want to steer half perhaps? same principle Do I have to use LA? not really but just for fun.I trusted its internal parts to provide me enough resistance to stabilize the suspension. I was wrong, that is why I created the topic. I looked at 8297 already. I am just testing compactness. I am not saying it is bad but I am testing different ideas. you can use #22961 to make it better. also for your previous example technic cams can be used since they provide 2.5stud beams.
  15. read my posts above, it is already answered why I cannot remove half studs. in the plane there is no suspension so it is on its weight of plane. according to here the press force applied to shock absorber is around 1.2 kilo but not directly to LA so obviously less than 2.4kg yet still something, not just weight of car/plane/whatever. I also have a similar scale and at 2kg-ish the LA retracted forcefully just like in the post linked. it means pressing the suspension really applies 2kg force in my design. here the bushes gone and T beam is moved back to max possible. right position is fully retracted (secure position), left position is HALF retracted (most problem position). How do you plan to protect the LA to be popped up in half retracted position? you guys only think binary like on-off but I want to use at various positions, it is LA, it can stop at any position. forcing to use only low or high mode is very dull and also not fun at all. also depending on car weight maybe the weight itself shall force it pop up, assuming I put heavy stuff like battery etc. by the way my temporary solution is exactly like what you did in the plane. it works quite fine, it is even in pics (between suspensions and differential). I think I shall stick to that design, it is best in this scenario and it allows almost every position safely. cheers guys. thanks for help
  16. @Aerolight thanks for the idea. I have not built in real but here is what I fear (direction also matters, I cannot move towards south in below image because dark brown axles shall hit each other before end): since LA shall pull the red T beam, it ?might? pull the axles as in blue arrow direction and connectors might pop. unfortunately the T beam does not stop at something I can backup behind. It moves around 1.4? stud, with lego it becomes unstable to back it up to prevent movement further (for example LA pulling connectors on the #44809 connection). not sure of course and it depends on the weight of car because car's weight shall push it back. even if the axles move a little then the suspension shall be clogged and disassembling might be required. in original design I might even add a gearbox to raise front or rear of car which would solve out of sync problem if LA pops up but solving left-right sync problem is messy, perhaps impossible. I hope I got your idea correctly. I feel it is not different from the original issue, we only empowered the push/pull power of LA due to different angle by lowering the link length. @MinusAndy does it ever become out of sync? for example when raising car or playing with suspension, like pressing? what if you mistakenly cause worm to skip a gear on big 24Z gear, would not all suspensions become out of sync? how do you prevent that? thanks for the answers.
  17. thanks for the answer but I really did not get what you mean. here is the design with all other things removed. how do I turn the (red) links 90 degrees? I dont get what you mean. this is not steering, either both red links move towards inside or towards outside (pulling or pushing shock absorbers), at the same time, not one by one. it is meaningless then.
  18. @Aerolight, 90 degree is dangerous. LA cannot push it (maybe?), the #44809 should be able to slide easily but in 90 degree it might be locked there. the small bushes on yellow 9L axle are there for this reason, to create an angle to allow small LA to push (pull the #44809 even at corner). also another factor: linear actuator, it is not 1 or 0, and it shall have between values. at between values the problem is still there, maybe less but consider low ride position (actuator expanded at almost max possible, not entirely), at this point it also causes pop because of the force. there shall be another problem. perhaps you can see the half bushes, yellow and LBG on yellow 9L axle. they prevent wheels to scratch over suspension arms (red 4x2) I cannot make it 90 degree unfortunately. 4x2 beam placement scratches wheels of 8070 (or 42096, smaller porsche set) without bushes which I think is for this scale. I shall test more though. @T Lego I have done 1:8 already, it works fine but with two small LA, one is definitely not enough but the movement is slow and long so out of sync should not be a problem at that scale (I can live with 1-2mm diff). principle is very different and it is not something like above (I raise entire arm plus suspension). I could not manage to pop in that yet but I also did not build the car. it is for later. above just came to my mind today for a smaller scale car/pickup :D temporarily I opted to go for my alternate #2 temporarily, at opposite direction. suspension falls when wheels are not on ground but it presses when it is on ground (and stops depending on LA position). I could not pop it up but the angle of LA arm scares me, it bends a little and I dont like it, I should find a better way. thanks for answers.
  19. I tried the friction approach but did not work. at first it was %99 working but when I had finished the pickup it was like %60 working. tire's friction was the problem. I ditched the friction idea and made below instead. requires some height, additional gears and space but works perfectly with proper angle.
  20. hello everyone, update: 4/4/2020 I am stepping back from contest since I converted the pickup to be a wrecker and also it exceeds size limits now. 15 stud wide, 37 length, 19 height (at lowest) independent suspension at front, live axle with diff on rear, uses regular shock absorbers (they are visible anyway) 4speed gearbox no fake engine unfortunately but red gear near HOG is the fake-fake engine 2 winch, raise boom and lift. tires from chevrolet set but render has LBG wheels the example truck I copied did not have a lifter arm or sth like that. no idea why. also I do not know how that would work because they have some kind of carrier/lifter arm-ish thing but it does not look solid. I could not get how it would lift/raise a car. I shall put it on rebrickable soon have fun at contest guys -------- hello everyone, I wanted to participate a contest for a long time and it is TC18 hopefully. what I am building is a real car, actually truck/pickup. hopefully it is not against rules because it does not specifically says "must be a car". if it is against rules, no problem. it is (supposed to be) 1950 Chevrolet pickup (Advance Design), it is also called 1950 Chevrolet 3100 in some places. an example of it: so far I have built one black mockup which failed but gave me many ideas and also backbone of chasis. then I found a blueprint and going with sariel's scaler. hopefully it shall be on scale fully. pickup for contest is the right one :D
  21. scynox

    1950 Chevrolet 3100 Wrecker

    I think I am stepping back from the contest. I have completed the model but then changed it to something else. right now it is a tow truck :D It exceeds the size limits (from height) so I shall leave the contest. have fun guys
  22. quick question, if a car's tire axle is long and exceeds the 15stud limit, would the car be disqualified? example: check the 42098's truck's rear tires, there are red bushes on axles and probably they do not exceed the width but some builds exceed that. another example would be side mirrors, are these accepted or should they also be within 15stud limit?
  23. scynox

    Storage and Sorting LEGO

    hello guys, I think this topic is best place for this question instead of crating a new topic. for two months I have been looking for some storage solutions like below in Sweden since I moved here. In the past I had similar boxes and they work best since my lego collection is getting big (40k parts total and growing, technic only). Now I have a new space/apartment/room etc and I can collect things again. I found some storage boxes through online but they are very expensive compared to what I paid in my former country. I am looking for cheaper solutions if there is any. I am also fine with price but must have good quality then. what do you suggest guys? especially from Sweden or some other country but I should be able to order online to here? thanks Note: I am not sure if I can insert direct links to some shops etc but hopefully this shall not be a problem.
  24. scynox

    Axle Collection Thread

    I see, so you want its total width (including tires) to be 17, then I can suggest below but you need to make them narrow or wider unfortunately. this truck uses 42009 tires so should be same scale what you are working on I guess: this truck's total width is 19. the front axle uses "Technic Axle and Pin Connector Perpendicular 3L with 2 Pin Holes" as arms. maybe you can change it to 2L perpendicular versions which will make the truck 17 width with tires. OR this pickup is 15L but has smaller tires: principle is similar, you just need to extend the main 5x7 frame one stud wider at front. offtopic: I always thought "17L" axle means it does not count hubs and only arms plus chassis should be 17 width? is it wrong?
  25. scynox

    Axle Collection Thread

    does this help you? F (drive%2C high suspension) [bandit technical].lxf it uses the hubs from 42000 so it becomes 17+ but you can decide to use or not. it is from my bandit technical truck.