scynox

Eurobricks Vassals
  • Content Count

    58
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by scynox


  1. 1 hour ago, aeh5040 said:

    ...I'm not sure why it seems to have provoked so much complaining...

    do you mean we should not say anything against any model/design shared here in this website?

    3 hours ago, Gray Gear said:

    Obviously LEGO did not use this shift system, it is my own design, but there would be no point in MOCing if all I would do was copy-Paste LEGO solutions and never figure out anything myself. But it is not an Illegal solution because I am not stressing pieces anywhere. I dont like that either.

    cool. have fun. it is against my principles with lego but definitely not with yours.


  2. 2 hours ago, Lipko said:

    Developing something for months that becomes totally obsolete  with introducing some new parts is extremely demotivating. This was one reason why I pushed myself finishing my models even if I didn't feel the design was mature enough. And this drive certainly doesn't help quality and wow-ness of a MOC. And I do feel that new parts are coming out more frequently and in bigger quantities nowadays.

    I thought it was opposite in general community. I mean new parts are welcome as long as they solve problems about stress, stability or they are innovative. this is a distinction on who is building, casual or pro. if you are a casual builder (like me) then I do not lose much and also I do not go into unnecessary faulty designs because I can see it is not working. A pro like you guys would go forward with the idea and spend months perhaps to solve it. I think Sariel mentioned it above already. he would fix his MOC in a day and move over in old days but maybe he would spend weeks for small improvements now. I would not, I am not going that deep into my MOCs about perfection. it is a hobby and not everyone checks details as you might think. functionality without problems or no illegal movement is enough for me and I would not be demotivated because a new piece comes and solves the complex problem nicely. I would be demotivated if new pieces about RC stuff comes or panels comes, or unusable colors for me. it all depends what you are looking for. maybe a pro would like different colors/panels more, I dont know.

    to be honest at every new piece introduced (not panels) I would again get motivated and try to buy it (bricklink or lego shop) to build something, use that new piece. is it frustrating? yes, but demotivating? not at all, it is opposite for me in general.

    example: I always wanted to build a large scale borderlands vehicle and I was thinking of 9398 tires. I dumped the idea long ago, I did not like the tires. then the claas tires came out and I started axles immediately after buying those tires from bricklink. same with 3L driving rings, sliding connectors inside it, porsche wheels, black wheel hubs and chiron orange gear switchers. if those new pieces do not come up then you have to repeat yourself at every year and the hobby shall become extremely boring.


  3. 5 hours ago, proran said:

    Nowhere else you can get real feedback from such an array of brilliant builders. If you are afraid your MOC is not good enough and won’t get much attention here - don’t post. Post somewhere else. If you don’t like the criticism - post somewhere else. I think no one will argue that a good MOC always gets a proper attention here. Yes, MLonger can be harsh, but, hey, you got the Master’s attention. You should be proud!

    worst comment ever. that is what others above talking about the opposite. some people claim and even link to topics that got few or zero attention and you say a good MOC always gets a proper attention here? oh, nice to hear all these guys' and also my MOCs were trash too.


  4. 44 minutes ago, howitzer said:

    Yep, when searching with that specific set of words, Eurobricks is only the twentieth result for me. But very often when I search for something more specific (like just earlier today the slipping torque of the clutch gear) I see Eurobricks as one of the top results and often with the best answer to whatever I was searching for.

    EB has been around a long time, and has a huge amount of information which is hard to find anywhere else. Of course much of that is buried in the long-forgotten topics but still a search often turns up answers to whatever you're wondering about Lego. There is a value in that, and while bulletin boards like EB are somewhat dated form of social media, I think we should all work to keep this place alive and active for years to come. This will come down to posting MOCs and keeping up with the commentary on them.

    yes, you have to be very specific on searches. but not many people search for that (the slipping torque of the clutch gear), right? how many would search complex lego machinations nowadays since the sets are getting less complex? they search for ferrari MOC, or lambo MOC or car MOC. the trend is cars, not complex or awesome stuff. first thing I built as MOC was a car of course, and I would search for car MOCs for sure.

    EB has many old and outdated stuff, I would not rely on a few years old stuff I find here; re-asking is always a better idea if you are involved in lego for a long time. TLG introduces new pieces every year and some designs become a lot different, simple and sturdy now, in most cases. that is why https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/175235-help-generic-building-help-topic/ seems a better idea than old long-forgotten topics for hard-to-find-elsewhere information. And it is very new, Jim started the topic this January. I do not know which is best for sharing such information though, I believe it is a good direction.

    search for gearbox of a car now (quite common topic I guess) and old topics found are not very relevant anymore with the switcher mechanisms changing. search for ackerman steering with old hubs (8070, 42000) and todays black hub, even the crawler's hub; the results are very different. search for telestopic arm for crane, pre-42043 solutions are old now and in some cases new solution is better, depends on scale and size. if TLG introduces a new design with new pieces then not many people shall focus on the old design anyway. I left lego after I bought 42056, paddle shift was a big change for me, perhaps everyone. I followed MOCs and almost every new model had those. paddle shift and sequential gearbox. then with chiron the orange switcher came (it was with chiron, right?). majority of people moved over to sequential gearboxes and now people are making 8gear ones (sorry, I forgot designer's name but posted here). if TLG introduces a new brake system for their new 1/8 car then forget all pneumatic brake designs from old topics here. no, I do not rely on old topics I find here. it really depends on what you are looking for of course.

    topic is about MOCs, yes, we want those shiny good MOCs.


  5. 37 minutes ago, jorgeopesi said:

    I do not think that more comments bring us more MOCs, years ago when I did not know how to write here, neither now, I build much more than now, but it is true that so many times I do not comment because I do not know well how to do it enough well. Maybe the average level is soo high that do awesome MOCs is too difficult.

    I agree on first part. second part about awesome MOCs, well most of them are on sale now, and they are also posted here.

    I see many technic MOCs on other sites. I still feel it is something with what those sites offer. they offer something else than what this site offers here and people want that instead. it is like losing to a competition. more appreciations/recognition could be something but I do not think it is the main reason. remember the time about latest contest? it is something other sites do not offer so we saw many MOCs. was not it a record of contestant numbers? but if you do another contest of building ships/boats would we have that many contestants? I do not think so.

    I feel the problem is not a single factor. it is combination of many things happening at the same time. different sites for different purpose and gains, technic part limitations (getting closer to roof perhaps?), (reduced) complexity in sets which makes people to produce less complex MOCs, cars cars cars because people like seeing them, pandemic impact on lego which is expensive for some people, chinese stuff and so on... if one of these hits a MOCer then you lose one (in my case). other people might be hit by something else

    maybe a mod can have a look on if site has a decline on visits/posts nowadays. maybe the problem is elsewhere. I searched for "lego technic MOCs" and I did not see this site on google's first page. this should be treated as a hint perhaps.


  6. 4 hours ago, JunkstyleGio said:

    All the MOC's are being sold on Rebrickable...(or exported to china..):pir-laugh:

     

     

    so true. you can see many MOCs posted there, but not here. paid MOCs at rebrickable or chinese pirated stuff seems the future, unfortunately.

    12 minutes ago, Gray Gear said:

    I dont think that is fair. I mean come on, did you really expect instructions for technic models to be for free? These models often exeed 3000 pieces and it takes a truckload of time and motivation to make these instructions. None of the average MOC creator here is making big money selling building instructions. I for myself would be happy if the instructions sold would cover even half of what I paid for the actual model.

    A good technic Supercar MOC should NOT have bodywork with lots of gaps/holes *huh*

    I build 1:8 Scale Technic Supercar MOCs, and it is true for me as well that designing the technic fuctions are the most fun. I love building manual transmissions, steering, suspension. Trying to create the most rigid chassis possible is a lot of fun too.

    Luckily that is not the only thing that drives me building my MOCs. I only build cars I really love, and I really enjoy figuring out how to accurately recreate the body with bricks. While recreating the car's body you really learn a lot about the car and notice small details about the car's design that would otherwhise stayed unnoticed. Its like getting to know the car better :blush:

    if you see your instructions for that model exceeding 3000 piece which you spent hours to build, sold elsewhere you might think otherwise. I also had three WIP MOCs but when I saw my MOCs sold elsewhere I gave up Lego for now. it is my personal demotivation, maybe others might have other issues like pandemic, loss of jobs and change of life.


  7. 5 hours ago, Timorzelorzworz said:

    We will see many purple in this wave, the color of 42069. I bet that the new UCS car in 2022 is purple.

    I hope not, I would prefer other colors.

    also why do you say 2022? we had 42110 at 2019 and Lambo at 2020 so why not another big licensed set for 2021? maybe Ferrari is a set to align with Land Rover but not 42096? is Land Rover not considered UCS?


  8. looks very disappointing that there is nothing worthy unless you want cars. I also do not think they shall have any special/unique mechanisms or parts.

    I don't believe the ferrari shall have any gearbox. only suspension, fake engine and HOG, maybe open hood/trunk/doors manually, just a usual lego car (besides Ultimate cars). my reference is 42096, it shall be identical with every aspect. or it shall be source of "single use" panels to make view better. I hope I am wrong on that assumption. I would love to see something "technically" interesting among those cars.

    If I am allowed to speculate, ferrari shall be "Ferrari 488 GT3", competitor of 42096 car. according to some sites I saw new 488 GT3 EVO 2020 is introduced in late 2019, so it is maybe time to introduce a lego ferrari for that car.


  9. yes and no

    yes: less parts due to bricklink orders slowing down, also I lowered my spending on lego.

    no: before pandemic (start of this year) I got used to digital modeling. now I use %90 time on digital modeling, LXF and Stud.io. also since my office is very very close (next room to bed) now I have less worry about getting up early for the daily commute. for example I can stay long after midnight and get up for work in time. basically I have more free time actually. I am not spending entire time for lego of course.


  10. On 8/7/2020 at 2:08 PM, AVCampos said:

    That means the Osprey-exclusive parts will have to be available to Customer Support, which in turn might mean they'll appear at BAP.

    some of them seems to be up and available in Bricks & Pieces. I checked rotor blade and it was out of stock but DBG panels seems to be available, likewise tapered orange 5x11 panel. there are no images available for osprey parts for now. maybe they shall be added later.

    set search gives no result but parts can be searched individually.

     

    800x409.jpg


  11. @Mylenium @SylvainLS @supertruper1988

    thanks for answers.

    currently I am looking into (mass) image processing tools (pngquant and magick works quite fine for now) to convert the images to jpg.

    here is a sample page which is over 7MB with Studio 4x but I can compress it to 440 kb in jpg format. I use pdf24 to create PDFs and it generally does not add overhead to PDF size (PDF size is generally less than %2 more compared to total image size). not every page is like that, this is one of the biggest pages in size. most of the pages have multiple smaller steps. still if I have 300 pages total and average is 400kb file size then the total file would be over a 100MB. is that normal? that is my main question in the topic actually.

    800x565.jpg


  12. hello everyone,

    maybe it is a stupid question but I could not find an answer online. neither search forums helped me about an idea.

    I am preparing instructions of a technic theme MOC with 2100 pieces total, using Stud.io. actually it is done/complete. problem/question is the file size I get with Stud.io. it is huge.

    I created the PDF using Stud.io in 330 pages/530 steps and the output of Stud.io PDF is around 200MB. I checked various PDFs from other modders and I see sizes around 20-50MB in very good image quality while Stud.io PDF quality is only good if 2x or higher is selected but file size is 200MB or higher even then. I looked into PNG compression tools briefly. I exported images from Stud.io, compressed the images myself and made a PDF, still file size is 100MB total. page count is same, image size is 1684x1190, kind of good quality I would say.

    am I missing sth about a compression? I tried another tool (lpub) and it generated 200mb file like Stud.io (but open 650 pages of PDF instead). I am not familiar with Lpub so I am not sure if I managed to do it proper way.

    what is the expected file size of PDF instructions if a fullsize A4 is used like Stud.io does? is 100MB file size accepted for a 330 page instruction?

    thanks

     


  13. here is a failed design of small scale front axle (partially virtual pivot steering). my intention was to make it driven, put suspension and also keep it 15stud width total with tire (from Mack anthem).

    it ended as below, not so good. usable if expectations are low. There is huge slack all over the axle and turning radius is terrible. the Z arms do not turn too much so steering is not so good. main slack comes from the 3L blue thin beam. I could not replace it with a better thing (the end has to go inside the wheel to make it 15stud, otherwise it is impossible with CV and diff)

    more photos in bricksafe. maybe someone can use the idea and make it better (or already done better)

    800x600.jpg

     


  14. 13 hours ago, Aerolight said:

    If you want it to work at any height with the same range the only way would be a camming system, possible but would defiantly take more space.

    we have cam already :) and it does not take too much space at all. in fact instead of the T beam I can put two technic cams in opposite direction and rotate it which can extend to 3L and retract to 2L. unfortunately the movement is little, half stud per wheel, not enough to extend the suspension.

    still a very good idea and can be applied for compact suspensions which I shall try for sure. not at this scale but maybe smaller wheel/tire options and different setups. thanks for reminding this.

    12 hours ago, dhc6twinotter said:

    I'm not entirely sure I understand what the suspension has to do with the LAs.  The forces being exerted on the LA is the same, regardless of whether or not shocks are used (well unless you drop something, in which case shocks might help).  My original plans with the plane design was to include a couple of stiff shocks on the main wheels.  These shocks would have replaced the grey 7L beams in the landing gear mechanism seen in the video.  The rest of the mechanism would have stayed the same, and the weight of the plane would have still been on the plane's frame, rather than the LA.  I abandoned the shocks because I quickly realized the plane was too heavy for only two shocks, and I didn't have time to work out a different solution. :classic:

    Sorry, I didn't see any comment about you wanting to have various positions.  I assumed it was just an up or down scenario.

    Do you have to use an LA?  Why not just use a rack and worm gear?  Then you don't have to worry about internal clutches.      

    Lego set 8297 Off Roader has motorized adjustable height suspension.  It might be worth a look for some inspiration.  

    when you press the suspension it creates an additional force which is applied to LA. at that point LA pops up (due to the additional power applied to suspension). it only happens when you are testing suspension for example.I already said it in first post. LA pops up when I press suspension. it does not pop up when vehicle is stationary.

    I prefer the machinery to work in every position, not only in up/down situations. just personal preference. that is the challenge and fun. it is nice to watch it running slowly and smoothly and also working on every position. just like the wheel of the plane but not entirely functionality wise. your plane wheel must be on or off, just like a car door but a car height can be adjustable at various positions. when you put a steering wheel or HOG to your car, do you only turn it to max or do you want to steer half perhaps? same principle

    Do I have to use LA? not really but just for fun.I trusted its internal parts to provide me enough resistance to stabilize the suspension. I was wrong, that is why I created the topic.

    I looked at 8297 already. I am just testing compactness. I am not saying it is bad but I am testing different ideas.

    1 hour ago, Aerolight said:

    This might work with some light modifications (allowing the actuator to extend to go though its full range would make it effectively stronger anyway though). Not Sure how to get the elbow perfectly stiff and the eyelets ideally should not have friction but here is the basic concept. 

    lego cam actuato by michael waterfield, on Flickr

     

    you can use #22961 to make it better.

    also for your previous example technic cams can be used since they provide 2.5stud beams.


  15. 15 hours ago, dhc6twinotter said:

    I agree with this, and that would be my suggestions as well.   Try getting rid of the grey half-bushings in the photo above, and move the LA back (towards the gear) at least 1 stud.  1.5-2 studs may even be better.  When the suspension is loaded, it will force the already retracted LA to want to retract more, which of course it can't do.  

    I agree with this as well, and that's a good design.  I did something similar on my Piper Super Cub and the retractable landing gear in the floats.  See video below starting at about 4:02.  The mini LAs retract the landing gear, but the over center pivot (red 3x3 arch pieces) transfers the weight of the model from the LAs to the frame.  The landing gear was strong enough to support the weight of the plane despite only using two mini LAs for all four wheels.

    read my posts above, it is already answered why I cannot remove half studs.

    in the plane there is no suspension so it is on its weight of plane. according to here the press force applied to shock absorber is around 1.2 kilo but not directly to LA so obviously less than 2.4kg yet still something, not just weight of car/plane/whatever. I also have a similar scale and at 2kg-ish the LA retracted forcefully just like in the post linked. it means pressing the suspension really applies 2kg force in my design.

    here the bushes gone and T beam is moved back to max possible. right position is fully retracted (secure position), left position is HALF retracted (most problem position). How do you plan to protect the LA to be popped up in half retracted position? you guys only think binary like on-off but I want to use at various positions, it is LA, it can stop at any position. forcing to use only low or high mode is very dull and also not fun at all. also depending on car weight maybe the weight itself shall force it pop up, assuming I put heavy stuff like battery etc.

    800x395.jpg

    by the way my temporary solution is exactly like what you did in the plane. it works quite fine, it is even in pics (between suspensions and differential). I think I shall stick to that design, it is best in this scenario and it allows almost every position safely.

    cheers guys. thanks for help

     


  16. @Aerolight thanks for the idea. I have not built in real but here is what I fear (direction also matters, I cannot move towards south in below image because dark brown axles shall hit each other before end):

    800x392.jpg

    since LA shall pull the red T beam, it ?might? pull the axles as in blue arrow direction and connectors might pop. unfortunately the T beam does not stop at something I can backup behind. It moves around 1.4? stud, with lego it becomes unstable to back it up to prevent movement further (for example LA pulling connectors on the #44809 connection). not sure of course and it depends on the weight of car because car's weight shall push it back. even if the axles move a little then the suspension shall be clogged and disassembling might be required. in original design I might even add a gearbox to raise front or rear of car which would solve out of sync problem if LA pops up but solving left-right sync problem is messy, perhaps impossible.

    I hope I got your idea correctly.

    I feel it is not different from the original issue, we only empowered the push/pull power of LA due to different angle by lowering the link length.

    @MinusAndy does it ever become out of sync? for example when raising car or playing with suspension, like pressing? what if you mistakenly cause worm to skip a gear on big 24Z gear, would not all suspensions become out of sync? how do you prevent that?

     

    thanks for the answers.


  17. 1 hour ago, Aerolight said:

    When the links are at 180 degrees the actuator cant move them, at 90 degreases however the force from the actuator is maximised. Due to the force direction you might be able to get away with moving the links  back one and use a axle with 2 90 Degree connectors and a half stud shim to make the 2.5 stud link length you need. (while the links would only be held together with friction only a downward force on the wheels would cause them to pull apart).

    If we could see more pictures there might be a way of simply moving the suspension connection pin out 0.5 studs.  

    thanks for the answer but I really did not get what you mean. here is the design with all other things removed. how do I turn the (red) links 90 degrees? I dont get what you mean.

    800x464.jpg

    this is not steering, either both red links move towards inside or towards outside (pulling or pushing shock absorbers), at the same time, not one by one. it is meaningless then.


  18. @Aerolight, 90 degree is dangerous. LA cannot push it (maybe?), the #44809 should be able to slide easily but in 90 degree it might be locked there. the small bushes on yellow 9L axle are there for this reason, to create an angle to allow small LA to push (pull the #44809 even at corner). also another factor: linear actuator, it is not 1 or 0, and it shall have between values. at between values the problem is still there, maybe less but consider low ride position (actuator expanded at almost max possible, not entirely), at this point it also causes pop because of the force. there shall be another problem. perhaps you can see the half bushes, yellow and LBG on yellow 9L axle. they prevent wheels to scratch over suspension arms (red 4x2) I cannot make it 90 degree unfortunately. 4x2 beam placement scratches wheels of 8070 (or 42096, smaller porsche set) without bushes which I think is for this scale. I shall test more though.

    @T Lego I have done 1:8 already, it works fine but with two small LA, one is definitely not enough but the movement is slow and long so out of sync should not be a problem at that scale (I can live with 1-2mm diff). principle is very different and it is not something like above (I raise entire arm plus suspension). I could not manage to pop in that yet but I also did not build the car. it is for later. above just came to my mind today for a smaller scale car/pickup :D

    temporarily I opted to go for my alternate #2 temporarily, at opposite direction. suspension falls when wheels are not on ground but it presses when it is on ground (and stops depending on LA position). I could not pop it up but the angle of LA arm scares me, it bends a little and I dont like it, I should find a better way.

    thanks for answers.


  19. hello guys,

    I made a raisable axle using a small linear actuator. it works fine and raises suspension by almost 1.5 stud and suspension still works which is nice. problem is the linear actuator's internal clutch. it pops up due to suspension press force if I manually press suspension for too long

    800x624.jpg

    another angle

    800x600.jpg

    principle is moving suspension's connection to axle's interior or outside to create a different angle on suspension which makes the wheel arms to raise or lower the wheel. suspension is not fixed, it moves and suspension shall work in low or high mode which is a requirement (I want it that way).

    now if I press suspension (half stud 6L beams or wheel) then the LBG #44809 (the shock absorber and frictionless pin is connected to it) shall move towards interior (middle of axle) which shall press the 3L red beam to forward. it is going to force the linear actuator to pop forward, and it does unfortunately.

    obvious answer would be to change direction of linear actuator, which is going to be ugly but possible. yet the same problem shall be there. this time pressing the suspension shall push the actuator's arm to inside.

    my questions?

    * I think I shall stick with this design (using small LA) because of compactness and it really does not pop up frequently. it rarely does when applying full force. I am thinking of changing direction (linear actuator shall be at opposite side) but shall this help? is actuator's internal clutch (or internal parts) have more force to prevent the arm to go backward or forward?

    * funny part is, I used linear actuator for fun and I trusted its internal clutch, holding power. it does not have much power it seems. It only needs to go forward 1.5stud at most and it is enough for suspension.

    alternate 1: worm gears with axles with stoppers?

    alternate 2: using linear actuator to create a more powerful but shorter movement and apply the power to the LBG pin through a beam (where in image LA is connected)

     

    what do you suggest? is small LA really that weak or did I break it during tests?

    cheers