Gianluca Morelli

I'd like to buy the Lester torso (currently not available), does anybody know if it's gone for good or it might be available again in the future?

Received my BaP order last friday (ordered on jan 1st) and it was like 50% incomplete. All the small stuff was missing, all the 1x8 tiles, etc. Total value 160 euros, received half of it. Also waiting for another order I made on Dec 14th and still not showing up. I will never understand the logic behind shipping a 5 euros set with tracking, but a 100 euros BaP by standard mail.

Hi, is there a new reference for the minifigure hand? They were previously available as 3820 but they are now all sold out (and without picture). Thanks, Gianluca

Nice, can it be done with firefox/windows?

Where do the torsos with white hands come from? [EDIT] Found: winter village firemen.

Isn't it sand green?

looks like you got inspiration from Stephen Biesty

Being a long time TGV PSE fan, I made some light modifications to the nose of the engine. This because the nose is too high (even the white stripe on the side points upwards instead of downwards...) (full size image here: http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/gm/OtherStuff/screen.jpg ) The side 1x6 white tiles become 1x4 tiles next to a 1x3 white brick and similarly the side 1x5 (1x4 + 1x1, actually...) orange tiles become 1x3 orange tiles next to two 1x2 orange plates stacked together. This allows all the nose block to be moved 1 plate downwards. To compensate this, I added 2 orange 30357 (Plate, Round Corner 3 x 3) over the windscreen. And yes, the two black headlight bricks near the windcreen became two transparent 1x1 bricks...) This modification also makes the front spoiler closer to the rail. But there's a couple ot bad things: 1. moving the big orange 32084s (Wedges 6 x 8 Cutout) "eats" the space for stud on the orange 1x1 brick with handle next to the door (it is 1/2 stud inside the wall so it needs a tile or jumper on top) 2. I'm not sure if the train motor can freely rotate Not that I can't solve these issues... ;-) Now, the next big thing to change is the position of the front bogie, that needs to be moved two studs forward. This can be achieved redesigning totally the front spoiler, aka not using the upsidedown 32084 (Wedge 6 x 8 Cutout) and moving the 6x28 train plate 1 or 2 studs forward. But now it's 5.53 AM so it'd bedtime :-P

Searching "haunted" on brickshelf, this is the first picture you see: which is very similr to 10228: Should I say "OOOPS"? Or maybe who built that MOC is now a TLC set designer? Also, in the upper floor there is a wardrobe with a 1x3x4 reddish brown door, that looks unpaired: Those doors are so useful for us train builders, I hope we'll soon see its counterpart. And BTW, wouldn't it be nice if we had such a set every year, for Halloween? Every Halloween a new haunted house... creepy, eh?

OK, I finally succeeded in separating them: 1. slide a big knife blade between the two parts (on the wheel attachment side, where the diameter is 3 studs) 2. slide another big knife blade, parallel to the first, in the same slot but on the other side 3. rotate (twist) the knifes in opposite direction (pull one, push the other) SAFETY WARNING: this might be a dangerous procedure, do it at your own responsibility. Use big kitchen knives, the ones for cutting meat, smooth blade (no theeth). If the blade is too thin and flexible, it could come away from the slot and hurt you. Also, if the blade gets broken, pieces of it might hurt you. Do point 3. at the biggest possible distance from your body, with eyelids closed and looking in another direction. Cheers, Gianluca

Hi, did anyone succeed in disengaging these two parts? (and HOW?) Thanks in advance, this is driving me mad... Gianluca

Thanks. Couldn't imagime it was that easy Still missing pic 75 and 78-83...

If you have pics 75-83 please email the to me. Thanks

Can you please let me find them too? I need pics 75 and up :-) Thanks!

Hi all, I searched in the forum but could't find anyting, so here's my question: assuming that I have a plain train door (like this: http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=4181) and I want to paint the bottom half in order to have something like this: http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=4181p02, what kind of paint/tools should I use? Lego paint on 80s doors looks so thin but is also very resistant, can I achieve similar results just with spray paint? Is an additional transparent layer needed for added resistance? Finally, is there a way to know which commercially available colors match better lego colors? Thanks in advance for your help (and yes, I'm a painting noob ) Cheers, Gianluca