hallidaynick

Yes, it turned out to be my first 7 stud wide wagons, most are 8 that i build. I'm going to stick with 6 studs for the containers, by scale they are a little closer to 7 than 6 but 6 seem to work well for the designs. 7 would make them harder to get symmetrical. What do you think? Would you go 7?

Ill update with a couple more, I have containers ready to go i just need to work up some decals and ill get some photos with them on the wagons. Yes bad construction seemed to be the downfall, These ended up very strong for the amount of bricks in them, I was surprised.

I've recently finished 3 new SQDY wagons, These wagons in real life were built in america and used in Australia, The Lego models are a scale model, with the decals representing actual wagon numbers. The real life wagons have an interesting history with one of them failing in the middle of the wagon while in use resulting in the two shipping containers touching at the top as the base of the wagon split, as a little easter egg i used the same wagon number for one of my 3, (i just hope it doesn't break also). There are a number more images on my Flickr Let me know what you think, if there are any improvements i could make.

instead of the 1x1 round plate could you use a light grey 1x1 square plate so it matches the side grey tiles? it might improve the junction where the diagonal black tiles are attached.

Cut them. You will save a heap of space. There are a number of guides online of where to cut. If you don't have a great deal of space a point to point layout is always a great option.

Our lug developed a modified MILS system, its basically just higher which allows more depth. Lego isn't a cheap hobby to start with but $1000 isn't that bad to cover 56 bps. I've now worked my way through a lot of bps doing it and I've found if you want to make it cheaper the best way is to make the most of used parts. Buy bulk lots of garage sales or charity shops etc, take out all the bricks and plates (of colours you don't use, I put away all the greys, tans, greens and browns for builds) and use that for support. All bricks will work you don't have to use 2x4 standard in one colour. My bases are rainbows and of all sizes but still follow the standard in shape (see below). https://www.flickr.com/photos/nicks-brick-land/48580491961/in/photostream/ spend the money where its needed on the green plates or grass etc. baseplates can be the worst looking ones you have. I've used yellow, red and even ones painted with an island. I guess the main thing is if you don't see it, it doesn't matter what it looks like so be creative in your parts use.

This weekend just gone I was an exhibitor at the Our Town Model Show here in Newcastle, Australia. The show was a great success and my display was 1 of only two LEGO displays at the event. The display was my largest ever solo layout and it came together better then expected. I was aiming for a level of realism that took it from a simple LEGO model to a scale train model built out of LEGO. As always there are a heap of things I can do better and will in the future. Some of the features of the layout include. 192 stud long train maintenance shed based off the Aurizon shed here in Newcastle. Modular mountain with tunnel. Large trees. 3D printed curve (R88) that I designed and printed along with the straights in the pit of the shed. Framed timber house been built (on angle) The whole layout was made in the SMILS standard which is our LUG standard and is a version of the MILS system. Enjoy the images and videos on my flickr if you get the chance to look. (Click the image below)

I designed them myself and had a friend print them for me.

Are you worthy? My latest MOC is Thor's Hammer. Hammer1 by Nicholas Halliday, on Flickr 1:1 scale (or as close as I could get) based on the 2011 movie. It has taken me a long time to get the size, angles and overall design right. I've had a number of attempts at it. I will be displaying it next weekend here in Newcastle, Australia with my 1:1 Captain America Shield. Enjoy More Photos of the Hammer and Shield can be found below, Hoping to get some of the two together at the show. Marvel Builds

I don't see it as cheating. LEGO make the trains for kids, the PF system is great I love it but the IR side of it is poor. In order to control a large layout at a show or even at home, I see Sbrick as the best way forward. When we use IR at shows we have to run around the tables to stop trains before or after a crash etc its a pain. With Sbrick we just use the tablets we have from anywhere around the layout and even further away and it works.

Thanks, It was based on the concept on your flickr (provided you are who I think you are :) ), I would love to share it with you and work out a couple of things I would like to do better, if you have the time and are keen. If you could send me a message that would be awesome. Nick

hey all, I would like to show you my BR class 8 diesel shunter in BR black livery. 8 wide design plus little bits here and there outside of that, 25 studs long body plus buffers. 3 large PF motors a battery box and sbrick under the hood. It has dual ended inbuilt decouplers. So shunter with this bad boy is gonna be awesome. Geared down to ensure slower movement around the yard also. http://Shunter by Nicholas Halliday, on Flickr Hope you like it. I'll try to find someone with a good camera and lighting to get some good pics to post to Flickr. Let me know what you think.

Nice little design, i like the size of it. Well Done I've been working on one myself, however in 8 wide, with on board decoupling.

it went well over budget, I planned on doing mjolnir at the same time but due to the cost of the shield Ive put the hammer off for a little while, thanks for the kind words ll.

yes i can pick it up etc, im always careful with it of cause but its a lot more sturdy than i was expecting it to be.