miguev

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Posts posted by miguev

  2. Posted

    They did the same last year, is this something we can expect to happen every year in late October?

    Migros around me don't have much, so I'm hoping to get my 42043 30% off from Toys'R'us in their Thanks Giving sale, since it looks like they are into that :)

    I got my 9398 cheap (35% off) from Coop right after Xmas, fount it as a lonely leftover in the local InterDiscount. Saw it and decided it had my name on it :D

  3. Posted

    I was also curious as to what was used. After a bit of searching I could gather that it's a two piece extension arm connected to a curved helmet cam extension. Neither of these help to stabilize it by the looks of it. For that a gimbal would be necessary.

    Exactly, I used a Gimbal. The on-board camera footage is from the same day that I did not use the Gimbal, because I didn't yet know how to attach it to the extension pole.

    The footage from that unstabilized pole was mostly useless, so what you see was recorded with a Feiyu G3 Ultra 3-Axis Gimbal attached to a GoPro 3-Way Grip, Arm, Tripod.

    Attachment was made in a pretty ugly "Apollo 13 mailbox" approach, in lack of proper accessories.

  5. Posted · Edited by miguev

    Finally, I’m done. It took a while, that’s what “soon” means when you’ve got small children 0:)

    I’ve updated the initial post with the final video and a few notes.

    Can a moderator please replace [WIP] with [MOC] in this thread’s title? I hope you don’t mind the bump here, I don’t see how this update would deserve a new topic.

    I intend to record a Jedi Build of this too, and post it on rebrickable.com ... eventually, hopefully this year :)

  7. Posted · Edited by miguev

    Lego rubber connectors are also good for fixing, but do not protect 100% of the flight the camera out of the case .. Therefore, I decided to collect as more rigid structure.

    Sariel's "LEGO method" holds the camera surprisingly well, even on fairly bumpy rides. I used this recently on my trophy truck and it only fell once: when the whole car drop off a 50 cm. cliff. Even held strong after hitting a tree or light post :laugh:

  11. Posted

    I noticed that the 2nd front axle has to carry alot of weight so actually it needs those hard springs there, the 1st axle is way too stiff though..

    So i've tried another setting, keep the rear 3 axles as they are. and only swap the first axle with a pair of soft springs. It works like a dream :) smooth ride and it does not lean forward. if you tilt it from side to side it still returns to the middle because of the hard springs on the 2nd axle. Try it out, it works :)

    What happens if you put hard spring shocks in the 4rd axle? With and without the bed full of heavy stuff :)

  21. Posted

    Impressive model! I was puzzled about the back until I realized it's one huge STAMP :laugh:

    As for the dimensions, I think the model is quite fair. The arm is short and the bucket... I guess it's the only LEGO bucket for this scale.

    Now, if only you'd shoot your models outside... like this, or this, or this... and your truck would look great like this too :sweet:

  22. Posted

    This is nice but this is the wrong topic, this topic is for photography not cinematography ;)

    Maybe. Photography is a very important part of cinematography. But I reckon it'd be great if we have a "Technic Cinematography" or "Filming Technic" thread where people can show off their best pieces of footage and share their tips and experiences, or generally discuss filming beyond its photography aspect.

    I don't think I have any footage worthy of that, but a few builders around here could get such a thread started. I can't help thinking of Mahj and his

    :sweet:

  24. Posted

    Tried some more outdoors. It seemed harder than indoors. What are the best time and conditions to take outdoor photos of LEGO?

    I'm sure there'll be more comments and you already got a few good answers :)

    Generally the "magic hour" around dawn and dusk when you have soft light (there are actually two but most people never see the first one). Direct light gives harsh shadows and huge contrast between light and shadow, often more than the camera can resolve. So you either shoot HDR or use reflectors (either works, but are a hassle).

    Golden / magic hours when the sun is very low, sometimes even when it's behind the horizon. I'd say this is when it's a bit harder to get the light where you want it, but as soon as you get it the shot will very likely look great.

    Time and conditions - it's personal choice, as i think. Cloudy = softer shadows, sunny = harder shadows. Your photos looks overexposed a little, you can try smaller aperture size, or lower shutter speed.

    Softer or harder shadows are indeed a personal choice, I think they influence a lot the impression they give, e.g. softer shadows make it look milder, harder shadows make it look wilder, like #169's crawler.

    Then there's the compromise of how easy it is to get the light right, and to get a great looking shot. My impressions is that softer and harder shadows are complete opposites:

    - with softer shadows, it's much easier to get the light (or maybe I mean contrast) right, but shots are more likely to look boring

    - with harder shadows, it's much harder to get the light right, but if you get it then shots are more likely to look great

    The last motorcycle is very nice... The advantage of telephoto lens... Nice blurred BG and flat image... :)

    It looks great, I like the backlight a lot. Should try that with my 8051 some day...