miguev

Indeed, but hardly noticeable compared to the latency I experience with the SBrick app when using any profile. However, when using the port tester latency was minimal. That was in summer though, I haven't tried it again.

Nice! I can see there's still a little latency in the steering, but at least it's a "tangible" controller. I supposed the controller already has return-to-center, I can't wait to use this :)

Interesting, what insurance exactly? Time is indeed the most valuable asset we spend on our LEGO collection, but so long as it is a hobby that we enjoy, it is time well spent. It is invested for good. Yes, even time spent taking builds apart and sorting the pieces back into their designated places in our storage system. When well organized, I find it relaxing enough that it is not a chore. But time will go by anyway, it will be spent no matter what, LEGO or not, just like heating and cooling and the monthly mortgage... So if we are to talk about money spent in the hobby, other than to buy LEGO sets and parts, I'd say storage systems eat most of the cake. But then again, if it helps you making the most out of the time you spend, it is money well invested. Battery are part of the hobby, so I count them as parts, just like the li-po batteries. I have 3 of those ($$$) and then a bunch of Ni-Mh AA and AAA batteries, but those are not just for LEGO, at least 6 of them are in the Wii (1 remote + balance board) at the moment; TV and other remotes are the top AAA "spenders", so it's not a cost associated with the hobby, maybe a small increment. I wouldn't count lights and equipment to take photos and film videos, let alone the computer to edit these, unless your LEGO hobby is the only one reason why you have that camera and/or that computer ─ which may well be the case for people who get serious (e.g. Sariel) but that's the cost of something else than owning your collection

Hopefully to close the loop: about latency. A simple hardware+firmware controller will probably be fine with bluetooth, not noticeable latency compared to RC. The problem is when you have so many layers of software that add up to the latency. With the SBrick app, the situation is a bit sad: the port tester has no noticeable latency, but when using a profile, even the simplest one, there is a noticeable latency that ruins the driving at any speed fast enough to be fun. Thus I'm hoping for someone (TLG or others) to build a remote (BT or RC, I don't care) controller with both physical controls for feedback and super-simple architecture for low latency. And while we're speculating, I'm wondering if we'll see TLG releasing something similar any time soon :)

*speechless*

I for one would prefer radio (maybe 2.4 GHz) and a dedicated N-channel controller (N > 2) with levers / stick you can *feel*. While the SBrick is great for some uses, it has terrible latency and zero feedback (you can easily slide your finger out of steering control and lose control of the vehicle) both of which make it terrible for anything not slow (let alone fast) and I think would easily be non-issues with proper hardware controllers. And for those, you need no bluetooth, regular radio is fine and fast.

Meanwhile in Switzerland... well, not too bad, I just got 2 copies of 42042 for the price of 1, in their 50%-off-after-Xmas sale in Migros. I'm now hoping the same situation will happen next year with the 42054. I like both sets, but not enough to pay the full price, honestly 0:)

Found it, page 123, thanks! Many details make more sense now :) Indeed it's an easy one to fall in for. Even Sariel did (and complained about it on of his review) which I reckon threw me off into assuming that's how it was.

Not sure what you mean. Following the original instructions, there's only 1 stud between the outtriggers (fully retracted) and the ground. My mod gives 2 studs, or nearly. Thanks! :)

Finally built it! Got it for Xmas, only finished now. So far only modding very subtly. First, I replaced hard shows with normal/medium ones (red) to get better off-road performance in the front axle. Now any front wheel can negotiate a bump (without any other front wheel being lifted) of up to 12 mm ─ 4 plates or 1.5 studs, exactly the travel of these shocks! I actually have 2 types of red shocks, one type on each front axle, but no sure which one is where: 2x 731c05 ─ Technic, Shock Absorber 6.5L, Complete Assembly - Normal Spring 2x 731c01 ─ Technic, Shock Absorber 6.5L, Complete Assembly - Undetermined Spring Type The cabin does sink a bit, about 0.5 to 0.75 studs (4 to 6 mm.) but it doesn't look to me like it's diving head first or anything. Of course, the outtriggers had to be adjusted, to get an extra 1 stud of ground clearing, by sacrificing the gearbox usability a little bit. Still worth it, I think.

There may be an elephant in the room, but this is the coolest tracked vehicle I've seen in a long time. And the fastest. Plasma accelerators FTW!

Looking great! If you had an EV3, you could make a D4L3K that goes around screaming the Dalek cry :)

Nice little truck, well packed with fun. The video just made my day :)

Nice little parts pack, including those lime green rims.

OT: Exploding Kittens is awesome

Can't wait to see it!

I think it's pretty clear and there's not too much to be expected: "Shop early to get up to 30% off select sale items!" ==> they'll discount only some sets, likely not the one I want. It looks to me like this email only went out to US-based users, so not relevant in other countries, but I'm still holding to see what comes up tomorrow in the Swiss LEGO shop and other Swiss shops. Last year, TRU had a 20% everything LEGO (from 100.- up) which was great to get the EV3 set. I'm still hoping for something similar, somewhere, this year... EDIT: yep, same as last year, but it's 20% (not 30%), but it's in all sets! Still, some sets are so expensive at TRU that even with the 20% you can get them cheaper in other shops.

Will other spring-loaded mechanisms be allowed? I'm thinking of shock absorbers, and things like Competition Cannons:

Phew, what a scare, please don't do that again! You made me nearly splutter coffee. And yeah, this topic's title didn't make it any better

Looking at your photos in the other thread, it looks like have a 12:20 reduction twice before and once after the U-joints, and you're already using the ball joints and portal hubs. So I'd try using a 8:24 reduction in the portal hubs, which is as much as you can get "after" the U-joints, so that they have to cope with less torque. To keep a similar overall reduction in your drivetrain, you can use 14:20 once instead of your current double 12:20, or maybe just leave a single 12:20.

Great job! I'm still wondering how you managed to fit the buggy motor in there, the bodywork looks awesome despite that big motor inside, well done :)

I just got this for my bday, I hope it counts as Star Wars themed, and as decent photography

Just add water!

Yes, I think I'll get a Cody and pose him with my 42007, maybe on a different color scheme to match his, and/or maybe a speeder bike to his scale. I hope it's OK to post not-so-good photos so long as they're funny, so here's one from today:

Isn't this guy a little too big for these bikes? I mean, his legs are a bit too long for these wheels. I do like the idea, just wondering if I should give it a try too :)