Essge

Crawler motors works great if you take it slow. Lego melts when going fast

The shape of the cogs are almost the same. The motor max input voltage is 8-cell NiMh 9.6 volts. I run 2s Lipo 7.4 volts. No-load current do I not know, but the esc can deliver up to 106A. Try google "rs540 current" (etc). The you will find your answers :) The motor can get hot, but a lego truck is not hard to make go forward. I dont think the overpriced Lego Lipo can handle any 540 motor Lego Lipo costs about $50. It is a 2s 1100mah. A standard 2s 1300mah Lipo from a norwegian site called elefun.no costs about $15. Then you only need to make a cable to the PF-IR.

Most of the brushed motors will work as long that you can fit the M1 pinion and a way to mount it to lego parts :)

Alright, I will do that :) Now you're happy efferman :D

Hi. I've tried to build a truck almost similar to the MAZ 537 8x8x4 truck which can be found in the Spintires game. I know the MAZ-truck got leafssprings in the rear. That is not important :) I cant find a good solution to a strong reliable independent suspension to use for offroading/crawling. I will be using 2x rc buggy motors, m-motor(s) for steering, a Traxxas XL-5 ESC and a servo hooked up du a PF-switch to make the steering work properly. 2.4 Ghz radio to get range (which IR-PF does not have f.ex in direct sunlight. For tires, I got 8 Axial ripsaw mounted on the standard big lego rims The real MAZ 537 does not have portal axles, and I cant find a lego version of the portal axles that is strong in combination with independent suspension. Do you guy/girls out here have a solution I maybe can use? Brickshelf has been down for a few days, so I cant just go and look :) Thanks in advance :)

I was climbing a rock and some of the wheels got stuck. The motors are geard 27:1. Thats why the knob gear broke. I know now what is the limit. The truck is not a 4x4 crawler, its an offroader. I wish i could get metal lego gears. I will never try to climb a rock like that again. Normal offroading next time :)

You're right. I thank atrx for det suspension. Its very good. My 8x8 and his 8x8 Volvo is almost the same. Mine is 2 studs wider. When I was trying to climb a rock today, I broke 2 of those knob gears. 1 in the back and another in the front. I made a cover for det truck and I'll make a cab next week :)

I made a 8x8 today with independent susp. Works very well. Rc buggy motor gear ratio: 27:1 (3:1-3:1-3:1)

I dont like tatra style. I'am making pendular now, will see how it goes tomorrow :)

I dont havething atm :P The axles are all in pieces.

I have made a lot of 4x4 before. Its not a big jump.

I tried, but dont know how to make a good suspension type. Dont need to be with springs. Just need something that articulate the axles.

I'll do that zblj :)

I've tried to build a MAZ 537 8x8x4 truck which can be found in the Spintires game. I cant find a good solution to a strong reliable independent suspension to use for offroading/crawling. I will be using 2x rc buggy motors, m-motor(s) for steering, a Traxxas XL-5 ESC and a servo hooked up du a PF-switch to make the steering work properly. 2.4 Ghz radio to get range (which IR-PF does not have f.ex in direct sunlight. For tires, I got 8 Axial ripsaw mounted on the standard big lego rims The real MAZ 537 does not have portal axles but I cant find the legoversion of the portal axles strong i combination with independent suspension. Do you guy/girls out here have a solution I maybe can use? Brickshelf has been down for a few days, so I cant just go and look :) Thanks in advance :)

Its maybe safest to go for the portal hubs solution. And something like this:

Hi everyone. I this is my tread for 8x8 project Im bout to start. Im gonna use 4 Rc buggy motors for drive, M-motors for steering. To power the rc motors I will use a 20-40Amp ESC. For steering I will hook some servos up to switches and connect M-motors to them. I know some of you dont like this cause it is some kind of cheat. I have 2 rc-units, but no one of my transmitters are working. Then I use a 2.4Ghz radio from hobbyking. I will not use original Lego tires, the grip sucks. I found out the Axial 1.9 Ripsaw tires fits the big grey and the big silver rim perfectly. Suspension. I want to have independent suspension. I could choose liveaxle if the idea is good too. I was thinking about this suspension solution But I dont quite know how Im gonna fit the drivetrain and fit it to the rest of the chassis. I saw ZBLJ's amphibious 6x6 vehicle that he posted a few hours ago. He haa used something similar to this I dont know what is the best, but I know the version on the pic is reliable. The u-joints could break. I will update this later on. I want to hear your opinion :)

You dont have any suggestions to the chassis?

No. I didnt make this. If you read the last thing I wrote, it says: I will try to make this at the end of August. Maybe it wont be any good as all of yours trucks. You have to start somewhere. I havent buildt any lego since 2012, because I dont have any place to do it. No space. If the parts are falling off, I will try to make it better. If its no chance to make it better and the gears are making bullshait all the time. I will build something else.

I made a Ripsaw myself a couple of years back. Since my rcunit broke, I coulcnt use that and the IR-receivers was to weak. I chose to use RC-parts. It runs by 4x RC buggy motors connected to a Tank-speedcontroller. Most of the info are in the description. I want to do a remake with some stronger tracks, cause those lego made falls off when driving on grass. Maybe I'll try to make something that someone else did post over here.

I've made 2 8x8 trucks. The first one can only turn with the 2 front pair of wheels and the second can turn on all wheels using 2 motors. Then the truck can drive kind of sideways. Its no suspension here. Just some rods - If the right front wheel goes over a rock it will force the wheel behind go down or something. I dont know exactly how to explane it :) Send me a pm if you want the lxf :) I will try to make this in the end of August when I move to place with better space.

To the wheels that falls off. You dont need gears to the fake engine on both sides. I belive it will work with one side and on the other side you can place that piece you connecting 2 axles together. Problem solved :) One long axle which goes through the pullback and the gear and out to the wheel and a shorter one that goes directly to the whell :)

I dont know if someone has asked the question, but how many of the gray http://brickset.com/parts/4515183 part and the 7L axle did you buy to make this?

D3K. If your dumper truck drives over some rocks and the axle in the middle gets stuck in some rocks and the axle in the back gets som air. Then they will spin free and youre pretty much stuck if you down lock the diff :)

This looks very good. Now you only need to reinforce the chassis and make a fine body ;) Off-topic: Is your computer an Asus N73J with 18.4" Full HD screen and it has a extra space for a 3.5" intern HDD?

Why not try to make one with motors? Someone somewhere showed/had an idea on a very tiny drivedrain.