Tommy Styrvoky

I installed the older style valves and that made a big difference. I changed out the valve switching design and greatly reduced the form of the entire engine,It now operates at 1000 rpm at 80 psi. The older valves are more difficult to open up and managed to snap 2 light duty #17 chisel blades in half opening them. I am not sure why the older valves are smoother, but It could be something with the rubber component that seals the ports. The torque is rather decent when being geared down, it seems to perform similarly to the torque of an XL motor. I will be releasing instructions for it later, as this is a small enough model, I should be able to do PDF instructions. video of it running LPE I4 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr I am thinking of installing it in this vehicle, the Czech Panzer 38T, this vehicle uses a 6 cylinder, though my design fits and allows for better scale of 1/10th. There are still a bunch of mechanical decisions I need to make. I want to stay mostly purist, however I really want to replicate the operation of the transmission and regenerative steering mechanism. To do this it would require several 3D printed planetary gear rings that would compose the transmission and steering housings, otherwise I could go for a standard 3+R speed transmission, and still replicate the steering system using differentials instead of planetary gears. Other parts that will need to be designed and printed are the sprockets, as to make the geometry correct and provide a good interface for powering the model. The only major issue with the purist solutions is the available space, I would like to replicate the interior too, but I only have about a 6X6 area for the transmission design. It could still work with regular driving rings, if I were to run all of the connections in the transmission at a high rpm, low torque and greatly reduce speed and increase torque prior to powering the steering system, to greatly reduce strain on weak components.

I hope they will keep both the powered up line and the power functions lines, as if they decide to phase out power functions, that would be really irritating to do anything with more than 2 motors, not to mention these components are probably more expensive. I wonder if this is there way of preventing 3rd party controllers from being used. it also seems that the PU hub is worse than the Sbrick Buwizz in terms of range. The ironic thing is I have seen several posts on Lego's FB with models involving Sbricks and Buwizzes. As if they kept the two lines seperate, one could be better tailored to coding and education, the other for more simple general purpose motorization.

Done with the basic shapes, just need correct dimensions of the spline, collar and axle connector.

Stls suck for modifying, as nothing is ever square or parallel. And I already looked in the ldraw library it would only take like 15min to model it up.

I could model it, if you had a caliper, that would be helpful to get a few base dimensions, though othwise you could take some top down photos of the spindle with a mm scale or ruler laid at the same height. The only other dimensions that would be needed of the side profile are the, spline thickness, collar thickness, and height of the connector for the axle to the collar. Also the diameter of the collar and axle connector. The PF m motor spindle is different, as it goes directly to a planetary reduction.

Here is a solution, I am not sure if it fits the correct scale, as if it could be made larger, that would be better. It features most of the functions,(spreading, sliding and rotation of the buckets) though it still needs work on the opening/closing of the buckets. https://www.bricksafe.com/files/Tommy_styrvoky/hullet bucket.lxf

I think it would be possible to get the other functions of the bucket, though I suggest using string instead of chain, it appears from the animation that the central chain controls the sliding, and to get the buckets to go outwards, this is due to the position of the bucket hinges. They appear to slide outwards, the middle chain is visible on the lower left of the bucket. You will probably have to use a system solution for that shape, as the bucket is more square in structure. Maybe if I get time, I will look into potential solutions.

This will be an interesting project, after looking into the operation of the unloader, it makes sense now with the unloading procedure for unloading holds in ships. Having seen some of the ships passing through Duluth and into lake Superior, gives a sense of scale of this machine. Rather impressive that it can move 10t of ore per scoop.

I found links for it on McMaster Carr, though there are many other retailers, you just need to list the sizes 4mm OD*1mm. this site is a rather good reference for what is available, as this is useful for when designing the parts. Shipping costs from that site is rather expensive, and it is rather easy to do a quick search for the specified O-ring size and you will see it is rather cheap to get a set of 50 o-rings for only a few dollars. a list of o-ring sizes here https://www.mcmaster.com/#o-rings/=1dycueu And maybe a suggestion that would make your life a lot easier is to use polystyrene sheet and tubing (maybe brass tubing too) to build up components, as that would require less work than modifying existing lego parts. This may be a good place to start, looking for supplies. https://evergreenscalemodels.com/

So far the PTFE lube seems to work, though I have yet to test the engine running with it. As I am currently waiting for a BL order of the old style switches, the new ones seem to be somewhat stiff when sealed up, not sure what to change to make them operate smoother.

I will see, though I will print it first with a FDM printer, as it is much cheaper to fix mistakes with the model, as there may be a rather long revision process to make it seal air. You may want to look into the new pneumatic v2 switch.

I thought of both of the above mentioned solutions, though both have there pros and cons, I will see about printing some of the valve parts when I get back to college, as it appears Shapeways has some issues with a couple parts of it, I could see about printing it in the white plastic, though it would end up costing $7 each i could for sure get the detail I wanted in the resin, though it would be brittle. Also I haven't looked too much into sourcing o-rings(... guess if I do order them, it will be like 50), though that may be a challenge for the 9mm ones. Otherwise, I may want to check some details about part clearances with @efferman, as I have only had experience with printing a couple models on their site. Because of this the part needs to be dimensionally accurate to rotate smoothly, and seal correctly. I didn't decide to add another o-ring on the bottom, as that seems redundant because of the exhaust, though if necessary I could add one. Rotary valve by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr As seen when previewing from Simplify3d, there are a couple gaps that need to be fixed, though mostly the important parts look ok to be printed in PLA. Rotary valve by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr

For LPEs, as it would eliminate the need for valve linkages, and potentially improve performance because of less friction.

I fixed the 180° distribution, not perfect as there is a point in the cycle where both cylinders are extended, though a solution. I could see if it would be possible to install a check valve in the middle tee part, that would fix it. I may also see about increasing the elapsed time of air release to each of the ports.

I will try the PTFE spray and see how that works out. it says it works on all plastics except for PS, and PC. After looking at the SDS it does contain some mineral oil(>5%), heptane, naphthalene, and kerosine, though no acetone. https://www.wd40company.com/files/pdf/wd-40-specialist-dry-lube-msds-canada.pdf I will test it on the damaged cylinder before applying to any of the new ones I got. It appears that mineral oil can cause swelling of rubbers, and some plastics, though if being in such a small concentration, I don't think that will have too much of an impact if I am careful of the amount applied.

Super clean build, it captures all of the shapes and details of the real vehicle very well. Also interesting usage of the subtractor, it would be rather easy to change both of the inputs to one side, rather than the 90° drive you showed.

Maybe look into fpv gear. I don't have any experience with it, thought it is definitely small enough.

They may have just ripped the leaked images, and used them, it seems too early to have already copied it, unless they have a mole in TLG.

There has to be a seperate reverse gear selector, as there is another driving ring, and looking at the BOM there's a regular changeover catch. Looking at this photo if you zoom in on the center console, you can see some red parts, that would suggest the changeover catch, and more 16z clutch gears, and you can see one of the white 3L connectors. considering how low that sits in the chassis, it would make sense that that would function to either reverse the direction of the transmission, like in the Porsche. Also maybe the gray connector with axle in front behind the black tiles could be a selector for the transmission, as there appears to be some space behind it, and that could easily function as a indexer for an sequential transmission. Another thought, after looking at the chassis some more, it would make the most sense that the W16 was driven off of the 20z clutch, as looking at the 2 blue connectors on the sides near the shock mounts, this would function well for affixing the motor seen in this still from the early teaser, also we may now know the location of the clutch gear is in the transmission ( it could also be an early prototype of the new 20z clutch), though this may have changed greatly since the teaser. Though after looking over the U style structure of routing power through the transmission this would make sense, as there is a lot of gears that are being driven. Also another interesting feature to note is the axle that is visible above the differential. It appears the shock mounts, and frontal geometry appear to be the same as in the set too.

well there are 4 12z's accounted for in the transmission, 8 in total for the set, there could be more used in the rear spoiler mechanism, same with the 24z gears, one is in the transmission, that leaves 5 more for other functions. With the 16z there are 10 in the transmission, an additional 2 are visible in the instructions for the steering mechanism, 4 remain unaccounted for. Given some of this gearing will be used to transfer power to the engine, though other possible functions would include the reverse gear as mentioned above, or to actuate the spoiler.

...Buys entire set to just part out transmission, and engineers an entirely new 8 speed for it with other more obtainable parts... or better yet, just build the model without the transmission and keep the special parts for yourself... As for most people this set will just sit in some display cabinet, and for the others that try to motorize it will probably be disappointed in performance of the transmission.

it would behave similarly to a differential, though it may be unlikely, as it would be for 90° only in most cases. a 12z may be possible, looking at some of Efferman's stuff on Shapeways, he did a 10z, so 12z could be possible, though it may be too weak.

yeah at least a 24z, maybe a 12z is possible, and maybe a 28z gear.

TLG could make life so much easier just by making more variations of regular gears with clutch gears, it would simplify it a lot. Though the extra added costs to make molds, maybe some day we will see a full lineup of clutch gears. Hopefully at least one per supercar set, as that would be justifiable.

Hopefully the clutch gear is just for the engine, though it could just be a failsafe for preventing someone from damaging parts in the drivetrain. if something jams.