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About kennywest

  • Birthday 04/21/1978

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  1. Sorry to be a little late at the party. Came across this thread after seeing my children's Chiron completed build and seeing it had serious suspension problems. So I decided to skip the original instructions and start with the pimped up version right away. First I would like to congratulate everybody who made this instructions possible and especially thank @jb70 for putting time into making a downloadable PDF for this. I am halfway through the first book to find this: Looks to me this will be impossible to disassemble :D Solved it like this: Shouldn't be that hard to disassemble again :D
  2. I am working on the smaller brother of the one you're going to build here. It also has articulated steering and very small turning radius
  3. Thank you all for the kind words. This is really encouraging ;) About the sideways travel of the lower links ... correct, currently the top link will take all the stress, need to fix this. I don't really have a blueprint, I only have pictures to work with, with makes it very difficult to get the scale right, but I like the looks so far. I think the cab needs to be wider. I am going to try that in the near future. Indeed I want to add an implement as well, because this thing all started as a modern take on the 8859 and the 8859 has an implement ... so ...I am open for suggestions. Cool to see there are other tractor enthusiasts as well, maybe we can start our own subsection on this forum :D
  4. Today managed to find some time to work on the MF. I installed a battery box and s-brick to power all 4 motors: We have 4 motors: steering drive PTO 3 point hitch I also worked on the cabin and body work Starts to look like an MF1250 :) Still need some work on the details, but I like the progress I made.
  5. @Erik Leppen compared to the real thing, the wheels are probably wider, but the width of the model should be ok. This one has wider wheels, so should look more or less the same: The problem also is the fact I don't have any blueprints. So pictures is all I have so scale might be off, here and there ;) The steering pivot is indeed near the center of the vehicle, so a central diff should not be necessary. I didn't use a central diff in my Ahlmann either. But after doing some tests, I saw the necessity of a central diff. The rear axle has pendular suspension which resulted in a lot of stress on the drive train when the rear axle was swiveling. I am going to create a small LDD for the drive train, so you can see what I mean. The 3 point hitch of the MF looks like this In fact the same setup is used on most of the tractors As you can see, below you have 2 lift arms. On top there's also a lift arm, so you can attach a plow for example and lift it of the ground. As you can see in the above image, you need to be able to move the lower lift arms sideways, so you can fit in the attachment. Modern tractors do this differently, but on older tractors (and also on smaller tractors, I think), this principle is always used. So, to fit the attachment, you spread the lift arms and fit the pins of the attachment through the holes of the lift arms. Once attached, you put pins through the attachment's pins and also tighten the chains you can see on the left and the right lower lift arm. Tightening the chains will limit the horizontal movement of the attachment. So that's why I used ball joints for the lower lift arms, pretty much like the real thing.
  6. Today I added the 3 point hitch: I used ball joints for this, so this works and looks very much like the real thing The real thing uses hydraulic cylinders here to raise and lower the hitch. I used a simple motor with worm gear, since I don't have much room here for a linear actuator, for example. I also started to work on the front and body: Starts to look like a tractor, no? Bodywork still needs some work, but I'm very happy with the progress I made. Until next time :)
  7. Very cool. I like it. Why didn't I think of this before ;)
  8. @Sjoemie himself, yes, there is a topic on this -> I even created an LDD for this on rebrickable. Still no decent pictures, however, I will create some this weekend ;)
  9. Hello, As a farming material enthusiast, I present to you, the Massey Ferguson 1250 articulated tractor. This is how it looks like in real life: Here's a video I don't create a lot of MOCs and I am definitely not that talented as most people here, but I want to create a LEGO version of this tractor. I am also not a frequent builder, so progress on this will be very slow (my Ahlmann took me 3 years or so to complete ). Today I made some progress and I have something that drives and steers. It all started with the wheels: I want to include planetary gears in this MOC, which is quite easy, since the tractor is articulated and no complicated steering mechanism is required. After some fiddling, I came up with the following axle: This was the first version, with yellow rims. The MF has grey rims and I need the new version with 6 pinholes (instead of 3, which can be found in the 8110, for example), to fit my planetary gear setup. After ordering the necessary parts, I started to make some progress: The rear axle has pendular suspension, which is realized by a turntable. There are 2 functions passed through this turntable: drive and PTO. The model uses an XL motor for driving. A large LA is used for steering. In the picture below I am using an L motor, but I think an M motor will suffice. As you can see, the whole rear of the tractor is pendular and it will feature a PTO a three point hitch.
  10. @Seasider curious to see your modifications. Please keep us updated.
  11. Sorry to dig up this old topic, but I finally found some time to finish the LDD. Please see:
  12. The model is the same size. You can see the 5L liftarm I mentioned below: The 20 teeth tan gear needs to be moved to the front, otherwise you will lockup the gearbox, due to there's another 20 teeth gear to power the differential.
  13. The moment I saw this set, I realized I wanted to reverse engineer it. I've had these wheels for a while, after finding them in some bulk. I never found good use for them (shame on me) until now. So, below is my take on the upcoming 42071 set: The rear: Probably not entirely correct, but the model is fully functional: This is the first time I did this, and really enjoyed it. Hope you like it.
  14. So I decided to build the Technic 40th anniversary model, out of nostalgic reasons. The problem is, as clearly stated in some of the reviews, there's a differential missing. As a result, the car doesn't steer nicely, so I decided to modify it and add a differential. Below are some pictures that show my modifications. Not sure if anyone else already did this, if so, feel free to merge this topic. It's actually not that difficult. Just disassemble part of the drive-train, use CV-joints instead of the universal joints. The gearbox on top also needs some modifications, so you have to add the above 5L liftarm and move the tan gear more to the front. I was planning on making an LDD file for this, so other people can build this.