TF Twitch

Eurobricks Citizen
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Posts posted by TF Twitch

  1. Your builds are very nice and I love your techniques for putting the motors in the locomotive. I would like to know if it is possible to run your trains on normal Lego curves or do you have to use ME models track. I would like to build variants of these myself and I am a Leo purist so this is crucial information for me. By the way i am in no way criticizing ME models because they have done fantastic work. Brick on!

    Everything that I build I design so that it works on regular LEGO track, and my hope is that it looks well while traversing the track.

    Looking at his wheel arrangements, I'd say they should manage fine on Lego curves. I'm more interested in how much they can pull and how fast.

    My "Disney Locomotive" has its frame based upon Nick Jackson's Midland 4F, which can be found here: His frame is amazing since it allows the L-Motor to sit between the driving wheels and underneath the boiler.

  2. It has been a while since I posted here, but I figured that I would post some WIP pictures of a new locomotive that I have been working on. It (and the eventual train cars that it will pull) are inspired by the new Disney Minifigures. With that in mind, the locomotive and train cars will have odd proportions and some "silly" designs. The colors are not final, although I may keep the main part of the boiler tan. Any input and constructive criticism is welcome!



  3. Very nice work! It looks like the real thing! The greatest thing of all, though, is that you are adding your touch to everything!

    Have you consider building it for real? If you try, you will be able to resolve all of your queries!

    Unfortunately Naco Enterprises is awaiting funds to be released for the production of many products and end items by customer organizations. By that I mean that I am still trying to convince my wife to let me order parts for lots of my MOCs.

  4. I have done some more work with various locomotives, so here is an update.



    I redesigned the tender on the 2-6-4 to have better access to the batteries so that they could be removed without having to take the entire battery box out. The AA battery box is integrated into the tender's structure so I had to be creative with the construction.



    After the L-Motor was released in LDD I had to see how it integrated into designs that used a pieced together L-Motor. The 0-6-0 had to be modified slightly to make room for it, with the main difference being the raising of the rear end of the boiler by one plate. Nick Jackson has assured me that in real bricks the raising of the IR Receiver by one plate is not necessary.



    This side view of the 0-8-0 shows how I am working with empty space under the boiler and between the frame to make a more realistic locomotive. While I am using pictures as inspiration, I am adding my own touch to everything.

  5. I'll be following this project ;-) Shouldn't the 0-8-0 (or 'D' as I'd call it) have its own thread?

    Hadn't seen the earlier part of this yet. Looks like you got the naming the wrong way around... The Emerald bit refers to the green colour (as in the Emerald Isle where I live) so your Emerald Baltic and Emerald Northern should be Baltic Night and Northern Night...

    Either way, they're impressive engines!

    This thread did start out by being just about my Emerald Night variations, but then it just became my overall WIP/MOC thread. I tried naming the locomotives differently, but I did not like it since it did not tie them back to the original class that they were based upon.

  6. it looks cool! But I think the double chimney is kinda weird. It would be better just to have one or to build a sleek housing around it like the how LNER did with the Flying Scotsman.

    Thank you for the feedback! I went with the double smokestack for several reasons, the primary reason being is that it does look odd and I wanted to include that in this custom build. The second being that since this is designed more for freight hauling (since it does have two XL-Motors) having a second smokestack shows that it has to have that extra release for the amount of pressure and power this produces.

  7. Is it possible to see a 2-8-4 set up in a similar manner? That would be sweet! And can you please update these locomotives and their LXF files on MOC-Pages?

    A 2-8-4 of this would not be hard to do since you would just have to extend the boiler and lower frame by about 4 studs. I will upload all of my recent work onto MOCpages eventually.

  8. Could you use this setup on the Baltic? And since the Baltic's boiler is slightly longer than the original's, could two L-Motors fit?

    While two L-Motors will fit inside the boiler, the issue lies with routing the wires. This is why I downgraded to M-Motors. The Emerald Baltic is only longer than the Emerald Night in the firebox area (so four studs), and would not really be feasible due to the same issues (and to keep the same general look and features).

  9. I don't know about other countries, but in the UK double chimneys were always built as a one piece oval with two holes rather than 2 separate chimneys, Because of this, it looks a bit weird to me.

    I am taking "artistic freedom" with this since my 2-6-4 is not based on anything in particular.

  10. After the Emerald Baltic I've totally missed this locomotive and the lovely livery red & black! :wink:

    I like the double chimeny! :thumbup:

    The black and red just work well for the 2-6-4. Realistically the double smoke stack would probably never be used on a locomotive of this size, but once again I like the look. I want to add some more greebles and details to the lower part of the boiler just above the driving wheels, but I am unsure what to do with the limited space.

  11. It depends on your desired final product. If you want speed, you cannot beat standard PF Train Motors.

    XL motors powering small wheels will give you torque out the wazoo but at the sacrifice of speed.

    M motors are, in my opinion, third to the other two options. They can only spin at twice the rpm of an XL motor, with about a third the torque. You're better off using standard train motors.

    The only caveat is if you're trying for slow speed (or powering drivers) and you have no room for the XL motors, then M motors are your solution.


    The Train God hath spoken.

  12. I say we celebrate it by raising already high prices higher and also reducing piece count and yet even more pieces molded into one that were separate bricks just a couple years ago........

    Barring that(which will happen regardless lol) I say we should take a version of Sava'a Daylight and make a Lego Freedom Train out of it.

    The Freedom Train suggestion gives me the idea to mix the Daylight in freedom colors with the Freedom Gundam from Gundam SEED.

  13. I would suggest powering both trucks in the tender with XL-Motors, which if you look at Tony's pictures on flickr (and several other people) you can see how they are done. That setup will definitely give you the power that the Allegheny is known for. Although it is replicating other people's work, it is a setup that works great. I will eventually create a tender-powered locomotive with that exact same setup because it is so effective.

  14. I am new here but have been working on a PS-4 Southern, using #1401 at the Smithsonian American History Museum for inspiration. Also still working on the 2-6-6-6 Allegheny in the back ground... Additional projects include a GWR 5972 (Hogwarts Exp), and converting my modified BASF to CSX diesel into a CSX EMD SD 70 (ACe) going from 6x32 studs to 8x41.

    I will try and get some pics uploaded. Link to Flicker

    An Allegheny? Mr. Sava is going to be jealous...