freestorm

Eurobricks Vassals
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Everything posted by freestorm

  1. Lego technic yellow train bridge from 1993 ad

    Yes it's true, I need to find the good ratio and angle between arms. I need some works to improve the version1
  2. Lego technic yellow train bridge from 1993 ad

    After spending hours on Google Image, I find this AD on Ebay. The release date is 1992. Large picture on my Brickshelf: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=573118 I've done a first version, my version doesn't match the original version, it's difficult to see details. I will to some improvement
  3. Hi

    Can you tell us which 4.5 Battery box do you have? You can check on brickset: https://brickset.com/sets/theme-Trains First, I will check the continuity of the cables with your multimeter I you don't know how to do it, this page can help: https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+To+Use+A+Multimeter/25632#s64987 Sometime current batteries are not the same as they was in 80' I mean the size of the polarity plugs, not the size of the battery itself
  4. Hello, I really like the train poster made by Jeroen De Haan (2003) http://brickfetish.com/art/dehaan_2003.html What do you think if we try to make a complete version with all LEGO trains (maybe 4 posters: "Blue ERA", "Grey ERA", "9V ERA", "PF ERA") ? I'm working to make "Blue ERA" MLCAD files Someone have the knowledge to render a large poster from a MLCAD file? I tried to render from LDVIEW to POV-RAY, but the quality is very poor (I don't know how to render a very large model with good zoom and quality) PS: sorry for my English, I speak/write English like a Swiss-French cow..
  5. Try to make a new version of LEGO Train Poster

    @JopieK Tank you for the software, unfortunately LDD is not the best software to build old trains, because old parts are not available @BrickMusher Tanks for the forum 100steine, I will not start a new project and I will try to help this @tsi Thanks you for this webpage, I will follow it .
  6. 12v UP SW10 set prototype recreation

    If you want to use only 80's parts, you can try with 1x2x2 shutter. With only 3 shutters Of course the white parts need to be yellow.
  7. How to fix? 12 Volt remote - Button gets stuck

    If you open it, can take pictures? It will be nice to know how it work inside. For you problem, I bet for the button spring.
  8. How to fix? 12 Volt remote - Button gets stuck

    If you need to open it, this thread can help you. It's not the same button, but maybe you can open it the same way.
  9. Wow, it look great I like the option to interconnect every switches like 12V buttons. Maybe it will better to put the 9V power supply on the right of the power brick, so you can put buttons closer the tracks. Or you can use a 90deg power connector As far as I have 12V and 9V on the same layout, I will be happy to have a "4Dbrix Module" that listen a 12V button (+-12V) to command a 9V Switch. So with the same 12V switch you can command 12V switch and 9V 4Dbrix switch. PS: sorry for my bad English...
  10. 9v track power problems - advice needed

    You can open the connectors and replace the wire, but it's not easy. I change the wires on one of my track connector cable. The pain is the 9V connector, it's difficult without soldering the wires inside the connector.
  11. 9v track power problems - advice needed

    Hello, It's not a good idea to plug the motor directly to the transformer AND the track connector to the tracks The track connector is not polarized, it depend which track connector you plug to which track. (if you plug in the wrong polarity you make a short-circuit inside the motor) If you plug the motor directly to the transformer with a normal 9V cable and it work on both polarity, you know that the motor and the transformer are working. So the problem can be: - The track connector make a short-circuit - The track connector is broken (a wire is unplug somewhere the track connector itself or inside the wires) - The connection between track connector and tracks are not good, the electricity is not going to the tracks. How can you make test without a multimeter: 1) As BrickMusher say, some cables have poor insulation, you can look at this video, you can see that the insulation is broken or weak. 2) You have checked the track cable (step 1), and it look good at your eyes, You can only plug the track connector to the transformer (no tracks,, no motor) and move the button of the transformer on both polarity. If the led on the transformer go dark, you know that the track connector itself make short-circuit , you need to buy a new one or try to find where is the short-circuit (difficult without multimeter) 3) the step 2 is working. You can clean the track connection of the track connector, sometimes they don't make good connection to the tracks,. After that, you can touch the track connector directly to the two wheels of the motor, (not the wheels on the same side of the motor) PS: sorry for my bad english...
  12. 12v train cabling advice needed

    Hello, I'm using "Ribbon cable 1.27mm" AWG 26 It's easy to separate and make multiple 2 wires cable. You can use with official LEGO connector For detail: https://www.distrelec.ch/en/ribbon-cable-27-mm-20x0-12-mm-3m-3801-20/p/15563657?no-cache=true
  13. Assembling a small shunting engine

    Good news :-) I follow this way to find your model and I was very lucky :-) I search to google image "lego small loco brickshelf" , I was very lucky that the good picture was on the first page of google The picture was from an old post that you wrote on this forum. After that I search "Maggimutti" on Brickshelf and found the manual :-)
  14. Assembling a small shunting engine

    Hello, Maybe you are looking for this brickshelf page? http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=313395
  15. Monorail - Extended Track System

    Maybe you can do something link this. The bottom plate is a tile plate (2 studs width) Maybe someone wrote the same think before...
  16. How do you power your long 12V track?

    You can use two interupted tracks, so you will not have short-circuit in the case your two loops are not at the same polarity But when you want to run your train between the two loops, you need to have both transformers at the same polarity. Otherwise your train will go back when the motor touch the second loop. :-) I think you need to be aware of shortcut inside the motor when you go to the second loop. It's not good for the motor to have the front in the first loop, and the back in the second loop If your loops are reversed, your are going to have a short-circuit inside the motor. It's better to have a small portion of track without electricity, so the motor can't touch both loops at the same time. But you can't run slowly, because it will stop in this small portion. I used this system to automaticly reverse the polarity of my tracks, to make a reverse loop without short-circuit the track or the motor. PS: I hope you understand what I mean, English is not my native language
  17. Bluebrick Layout Software

    Hello, Thank you for file renaming. I will test next week
  18. 12V Remote Control problem

    Andy was faster than me to reply :-) It should work fine, but if you have a multimeter, check before you plug your lamps. because they don't like shortcut :-)
  19. Bluebrick Layout Software

    Hello Alban, I'm a happy user of Bluebrick on Gnu Linux :-) but...I think that i find a bug with case sensitive filename on part xml files. I reported the issue #59 PS: I forgot to register on the bug tracker before posting the issue,so you can drop me a private message here if you need more details
  20. [tech help] 12v remote control opening

    Hello, This topic is about opening a signal switch, maybe you will find good informations to open yours. http://www.eurobrick...showtopic=88329
  21. 7725 - old train, new bricks

    Very nice project ! I like your idea For your PF Receiver, I think you cannot hide inside the train, you will not receive the IR signal. But I'm not a PF expert, I'm a 12V fan
  22. Automated vintage 7866 level crossing

    Yep you are true JopieK, I would say the same, but my english is poor :-)
  23. Automated vintage 7866 level crossing

    With this magnet holder under the wagon it works, but the reed switch and the magnet holder need to not be in the middle of rail. Because the metal of 12V rail will block the magnetism I think The magnet Holder is attached with his stud under the wagon Sorry AlmightyArjen to hijack your post, I'll take time to create my own topic to explain my work in progress
  24. Automated vintage 7866 level crossing

    The reed Switch that I use can not detect the coupling magnet. (it need to be very close) I put the switch under the 2x8 plate The switch need to detect the polarity of the magnet but with the motor it's okay. At full speed it work well, but actually I've only tested with a continuity detector (beeper) My idea is to use only relay and not a micro controller like Arduino, So I don't have tested to detect with Arduino The reed switch that I have buy: http://shop.boxtec.c...ch-p-42011.html
  25. Automated vintage 7866 level crossing

    Beautiful build! and nice video :-) Have you tried using "Reed Switch", it cost less and I think you have less false detection than IR detector http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reed_switch I am building a reverse loop with these switches for 12V It works well for me because I need to detect the locomotive. (the motor) In your case, you must add a magnet in the last car to close the level crossing