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Hi, I still have all my lego 12v train sets from the 70's, including transformer, rails etc. One of the locomotives I have is the Lego 723/ The engine still works but I'm a bit scared using the (740) 12v transformer - still works but since it's 50 years old not sure if it's safe. I was wondering if I could retro fit it on the new train (75motor (88011). I can't really figure out the dimensions from online info from the 88011 compared to my old 12v motor in my Lego 723. Does anyone know how many studs the middle section is - and where exactly the axes go compared to the 12v motor? Thanks 723: Diesel Locomotive | Brickset: LEGO set guide and database

Hi - the contacts are fine. I finished the rebuild and it performed much much better. I was very carefull to ensure all axes and gears could rotate smoothly. I made some mistakes during the build which required me to redo about 20 pages which was a bit frustrating and I wasn't as carefull after that, so I guess it could have even been smoother - also if I would have thoroughly cleaned all parts. But for me it's sufficient to say it was not a motor or electrical problem. Thanks for all the help!

Thanks - I took it apart and cleaned it with a dry cloth and now it spins freely - so that will surely help. ( there was no obvious dirt or wear however ) I’ll finish the rebuild in the next days and will post the results.

For what it's worth - under load the voltage from the rechargeable's dropped from 7,9V to 7,7V - which sounds normal to me.

I am taking it apart (almost done) and will start re-assembly. When taking it apart I noticed the large black/grey rotating disc underneath the body (how do you call that thing?) does rotate freely, but not super smooth. Should this part have grease in it?

Hi I_Igor Don't think dust is an issue as it has been standing in a closed closet ( and it still looks shiny and brand new ). I guess I have to take it apart and re-assemble. Hi Amorti I measured the voltage on the battery box and it was fine (8v with rechargables, and 10v with brand new regulars). I can try to see if I can measure it under load.

Measured the rechargeable's - all ~ 1.30v (without load), in total nearly 8v out of the battery box - which is good for rechargeable's, as they are rated 1.2v Also bought a pack of (high quality) regulars (1,65v per batttery, 10v out of the box) - improved it somewhat but not the speed and strength I remembered. Also, when in 'driving' mode, rotating the body in one direction was smoother than in the other direction which doesn't make sense to me. It also happens when I do it while lifting the body, so there is less load. Not sure what to make of that, as changing rotation direction of the body is only changing the voltage potential and uses the same gear path - so friction can't be part of the equation ??

Hi, thanks for your quick reply. The battery box was empty when I stored it - and all the contacts are clean. It is slow and struggling on all (6) functions. I'll get my multimeter and buy a pack of regular batteries to see if that helps.

Hi, I put fresh batteries in my 8043 which has been sitting (build) in a closed cabinet for several years (4?), but it hardly moves and lifting goes very slow. All the gears and controls are working and doing what they should do, it's just that it's struggling very hard to move, rotate or lift. I'm 100% sure that it moved fine when I last build it and stored it. (I took care in not tightening things when building it) I'm using relatively new, and fully charged, Amazon Basics rechargeable NiMH batteries. I sort of remember that the small motors can loose power over the years, or did I imagine that? Any tips are welcome :) Thanks,