Eurobricks Vassals
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About Ludo

  • Birthday 10/22/58

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  1. Power Pick-up Wheelset

    Hi @Capparezza, I've replaced in the past the wires from one cable with 2 colored Flatcable wires, and agree that you can replace the old wires with new ones. But the problem is to split the bottom plate from the top plate without damaging it too much. It can be done, but is a bit tricky. found this weekend an other cable with pulverizing isolation, just on the exit from the 2x2 plate. Time to repair it also. found disintegrating isolation Inside a 9V train regulator too, so it's not due to sunlight that the isolation is disintegrating.
  2. Power Pick-up Wheelset

    Hi @coaster, Your explanation make sense, I understand what you mean,and doing it this way, it looks ok. The only problem i'll see - now and in the future - are a lack of affordable priced 9V cables and 2x4 electric plates. What do you think from following idea. 9V cables are already expensive, and certain of them have a pulverizing isolation ( specially the rectangular formed cables with a kind of rubber isolation - I own a few of them and worthless to use due to short cirquit!). These days, cables used for Arduino are very cheap and available around the world. So if you could use a 2 pin (or 4 pin to secure the electrical contact) female socket on the wheelset (Dupont connector or similar with or without locking), and you can plug in a male Arduino cable in it (or a pin header with pins at 0.1"" spacing - they are most common used), would make the 'system' cheaper on the long term, and those connectors are widely used and available in the electronics world. If for practical reason (production cost) an inversion of the male/female connectors is nesesarry, ok for me, as long as the pins on the wheelset are hidden in the wheelset to prevent bending of the pins (damaging) if wheelsets are stored in a bin, shipping, ... I'm convinced that the 9V CABLES will disappear on a middle to long term (who buys them nowadays? Only for replacement of an old cable? And @ what price?).And while you create a compatible wheelset with power pickup, I would leave the 100% LEGO compatibility, specially concerning connectors and wiring and go for a widely used and cheaper solution. Or you need an extra mold to make 2x4 / 2x6 / 2x8 plates with electric contacts like the one you mentioned in your reply and how many will you sell on the long term? thats my idea.
  3. Power Pick-up Wheelset

    Hey @coaster, Just bumped on this tread and I like this wheelset but have some questions/remarks. I notice the cable connection on the wheelset, but how to deal if you want to use 2 of them next to eachother and using the original bogie plate, making a double axle bogie 4x6 (example : Emerald Night coach)? You can connect only one of them, because the connector for the second wheel pick up can't be placed because the first one sit in its way. What would you think to extend the power pick up contacts to the long side of the plastic casing, making it possible to 'daisy chain' the wheels? Then you need only one cable to connect, but you have 4 wheels making contact (2 on each side) with the track and a more reliable power pick up. Wouldn't the cable introduce more friction on the R40 & points and derail the train/coaches? The 2 wire cable from the 9V era posed some problems in the past, but with the 4 wire PF cable it's even worse (very stiff cable). Personally, I prefer the cable wires to pas trough the pivot pin of the bogie plate, this eliminates the problem of the extra friction, and the wire is not visible. I know it's not an easy task to create a wheel pick up that suits everyone's needs. Specially for the ones who build there brickbuild bogies as close to the real thing. Best regards.
  4. @coaster See you added the pictures for the upcoming curved tracks. Great! As said before, i'll hope youre bussiness runs well, so we can expect the 9V curves and points too. Thats what i'm waiting for. I and my coussin are willing to order a double crossover point as can be seen on page 4 in this tread. also interested in a few left / right points and larger radii (9V).
  5. Hi @M_slug357 This is a great idea and shouldn't be neglected. People visiting the site will be more interested and come back.
  6. Hi Coaster, Great news. I hope you sell a lot of them so you can continue with the 9V tracks Wish you a lot of success!
  7. @Barduck I see also the problem as M_slug357 says: it's not friendly to longer engines, and specially not to steames with the close positioned driver wheels. They can float over the track, losing most or all of their traction power and spin. Best way to get a 'nearly flat' display table is to put beer felt (Nederlands = Biervilt) under the table legs to equalise the table top. Explaination of 'Beervilt' : is a - standard - 94mm by 94mm light carton from abouth 3 mm thick thats been placed under a beerglass. See here for a picture to see what i mean. Or use small wooden gussets (Nederlands = houten spie). Personally, I would never use such track piece. The story change a lot when you want to get an inclined track to aproach a bridge. Then you need a track that goes gradually up, as mentioned in an earlier post in this tread. We've done it with 2 plates / straight track piece with standard LEGO trains, and even then you need a huge room. Additional problem then is that the train slows down while running uphill, but gain a lot of speed when running downhill. Precautions need to be taken!
  8. Hi all, If i look to the right bottom picture, I have the idea that you will end up with a bumpy track, and no smooth increase of height if several placed one after the other. Or is it an optical illusion?
  9. Hi Cale & Coaster, Thanks for this update from someone who could see them from close by. I guess you where thrilled to get them in your hands. Very glad tho hear that there's almost no warpage on the samples, and hope, when going into production that it stay so. I'm far from a specialist in plastics, but i visited years ago , when i was still a hardware engineer for the company, a plant where they did mold injection, like the plastic 3 1/2 floppy casing and the front & rear car bumper for Volvo & Opel. When the mold for the floppy casing opened too fast (plastification time too short), the plastic was still to hot and deformed (warpage!). The timing to mold plastic pieces need to be precise, not to fast or the pieces are worthless = higher cost, and not to long or the production number decrease = higher cost, and perhaps this was also the case of the warped LEGO track. Increasing production number by decreasing the plastification time? It's risky. Quality should be on top of the list, but i'm sure that Coaster wil keep a close eye on this issue, isn't it? Anyhow, it's in his interest. Bad quality = low or no sales = Financial hangover. I'm looking forward to the release of the 9V track & 9V points! @coaster when you go into production, did you look already for a distribution point in Europe? Best regards, Ludo
  10. Hi Coaster, Great track pieces! They look very promissing. Besides the missing "BT" on the studs, how is the overall quality? Like connection strength, mechanical clutch on plates/bricks? I hope that the "minor" adjustments won't cost a lot, now that you have already one working mold.
  11. Great to see this progress. :) PF track i suppose. question: what are the long 'trenches' for between the two tracks? I wish you a lot of succes and hope that the 9V will be up and running in the near future. best regards, Ludo
  12. I think the same. Have a few straights with broken connecting ends. Can be re-used at the end of a side track with a buffer over it. Allways found the connection points the weakest point of the 9V / RC track. If disassembling track after a show is done incautious, you can end up with a broken or bend connection point. Glad to read that the majority like the angled guards. .
  13. @3797 Regarding your remark, it's true. The goal of having a (long enough) angled guard rail 'entry' is to prevent that wheels /wheel flanges hit the guard rail, and guide the flanges towards the rail. The guard rail acts like a funnel. If you take a close look to a LEGO point, you'll see also a short piece of the guard rail that isn't supported at both ends. They don't even have a side support to prevent the guard rail to break down . see picture:
  14. Hi 3797,Cale,Coaster & M-slug357. Thanks for the additional information & the great CAD renderings. I can only agree with M-slug357 regarding the angled guard rails. They look great. I say YAY to the change. I guess that the angled guard rails are molded together with the sleepers with the exeption of the far end angled guard rails on the deviating track. And as already written, not everyone will ballast the track, but on the difficult locations to ballast, if you want to do it, there will be always a solution.Cutting & gluing are among those solutions, but only if nessesarry. I know Coaster, i'm a heretic
  15. @Coaster, Still an other question. I'll see on the picture posted from Cale (PennLUG's train layout at Philly Brick Fest) that changing direction is done with a rotating mechanism, which is different from the LEGO points. I guess (hope) that the hole from this rotating mechanism goes straight trough the bottom plate, making it possible to use an electric driven mechanism under the table, like a motor, servo motor or something else. I can't see it on the posted pictures.