Eurobricks Vassals
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About Ludo

  • Birthday 10/22/1958

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  1. Hi Ashi, The only location I know from Coaster is: I wish everyone on the forum a Happy 2020 and a lot of building pleasure.
  2. Hi all, I wasn't on the latest Afol meeting in Skaerbaek (Denmark), but some members of my Lug where. Michael Gale was also present to annonce the 9V track and got some samples with him to distribute among the train fans. I received trough one of my AFOL collegues a double length 9V track, and I can assure you that it looks great. I'm also looking forward to those tracks as I have only 9V track at home. My collegue kept the curved 9V track sample. I'm not quite sure, but I think its a R88. And, also interesting for the Europeans, Michael confirmed me that there will be a European distribution point. Where this would be is not yet known. I hope this answer some of your questions.
  3. @legotownlinz, This is exactly what Michael want to obtain wit his project. Larger radii, better and more points, just like the BT tracks, but for 9V. I'll stay with my 9V track, easy to adapt the track, like the model train fans, in sections, make it possible to run multiple trains on the same track. Or integrate DCC decoders into the train motor, remote control of the points, ... There's indeed a potential use for those tracks.
  4. Hi all, Different question. Are there somewhere LDRAW files available for the upcoming track geometries (like the switch mentioned in this tread, track crossing, ...)? If so, can you post here a link to it? I know there are for the different radius track, but not for the switches.
  5. Ludo

    Power Pick-up Wheelset

    Hi @coaster, As i see more & more Afol's using ball bearings on their rolling stock, any considarations of implementing ball bearings into the power pick-up wheelset?
  6. @coaster, Great point! Also nice to see the angled in- and out's of the guard rails. A lot more realistic.
  7. Ludo

    Ball bearings!

    Thanks both for this information. Next time I'll place bearings into Technic bricks, I'll press them into the brick. Unfortunately, not every Technic piece will withstand the extra pressure. Can't find the picture now, but I've seen a picture with a cracked 18677 plate 1x2 with offset peghole on underside, due to the extra pressure of the bearing. update: found the picture of the cracked plate. see:
  8. Ludo

    Ball bearings!

    @ALCO The 'problem' i'll noticed is that some bearings dont fit the axle while others do fit on the same axle, So I guess it has to do with the inner diameter of the bearing, perhaps little deformation or a blurr. Putting the axle in a drilling machine or lathe, and use some sandpaper or Schotch Brite to polish will solve the problem. Provided now 4 LEGO wheel holders with ball bearings. Due to the fact I can still use a milling machine, I removed 1mm from the 4 supports. This means that the bearings are 1mm deeper into the wheel holder, and the outher diameter of the bearing makes now one plane with the long sides where the bearings are fitted. This 'trick' ensures that the height of the wagon with or without bearings is the same. To be sure i'll don't loose them, i'll used a drop of hard PVC glue.
  9. Ludo

    Ball bearings!

    Hi, I know, I'm late on this toppic, but my ball bearings arrived today, so I will give it a try. I have some mechanical background, and was thinking to use a 5mm HSS reamer to enlarge the Technic hole. @coaster see picture: HSS reamer for those who don't know what it is. It's not cheap, I can use one from my company. I can also use a milling machine to cut a part of the supports on the original wheel holder, as you can see in this picture. then i can place the axle deeper into the wheel holder to reduce the added height due to the ball bearing at a minimum. Cross my fingers and hope it works. I noticed also a difference in bore diameter, some axles fit perfect on the bearing, others do not fit. I'm almost convinced that this 'problem' is on the bearing side, not on the axle. I guess that the used axles are of the type G7/h6 according to the ISO fitting system (loose fit). the mating hole need to be a H7/g6 Loose fit: combination of axis and a hole, whereby the largest possible axis (according to the given tolerance of that axis) will always fit into the smallest possible hole (according to the given tolerance of that hole)
  10. @coaster I can't follow your calculation here above (D=(R x 2 + 1) x 8mm / 25.4mm/in). Could it be you made a mistake in the used numbers (+1 ?) Example: R40 curve is the diameter from the circle center point to the center of the track. To get the outside edge of the curves you need to add 4 studs (from center track to the outer edge of the sleepers) = R+4. Adding an extra 4 studs for the space between the sleepers edge & the edge of the module(MILS or whatever) result for a R40 curve in: R= 40+4+4 = 48 studs (= gray baseplate) Full diameter result in 30,23622 Inch or 2,519685 Feet. My calculation for a R168 inclusive the space needed for the sleepers result in 108,3465 Inch or 9,028871 Feet (R = 168 + 4 = 172 studs) Adding the extra 4 studs space between the sleepers and the outher edge of the module result in 110,8661 Inch or 9,238845 Feet R = 168 + 4 + 4 = 176 studs. D = R x 2 = 352 studs in metric: 352 studs * 8mm = 2816mm or 2,816m in Imperial : (2816/25,4)/12 = 9,238845 Feet. Or am I wrong?
  11. Well, here are some calculations of the different R's. A R104 = 32.75591 Inch. I hope that the calculating to Feet is right. (Inches / 12 Being European and use only the Metric system, i'm not familiar with the US dimensions. Way too complicated for me. R 1 stud (= mm) 1 Meter(= 1000mm) Diameter (= R*2) 1 inch (= mm) Feet ( = Inch/12) Diameter (= R*2) 8 1000 2 25,4 12 2 = mm = meter = meter = Inch = Feet = Feet 40 320 0,32 0,64 12,5984252 1,049868766 2,099737533 56 448 0,448 0,896 17,63779528 1,469816273 2,939632546 72 576 0,576 1,152 22,67716535 1,88976378 3,779527559 88 704 0,704 1,408 27,71653543 2,309711286 4,619422572 104 832 0,832 1,664 32,75590551 2,729658793 5,459317585 120 960 0,96 1,92 37,79527559 3,149606299 6,299212598 136 1088 1,088 2,176 42,83464567 3,569553806 7,139107612 152 1216 1,216 2,432 47,87401575 3,989501312 7,979002625 168 1344 1,344 2,688 52,91338583 4,409448819 8,818897638
  12. @Coaster, I would rather say disadvanage of 3D printing, as this is much cheaper to make and faster done than coughing up the cost of an expensive mold. Sorry to read this too. Then it easy to understand that you don't share a lot of information. Keep up the good work, still wondering what's coming up. Best regards from Belgium.
  13. @Hod Carrier, Thanks for this information. Those bands are indeed cheap and my package contains 200 black bands, so you can do a lot with one package. I used some of them on my wagons to center the single axle wheels back when it exits the curved track. One band for each axle. So far no problems, but i don't attend every wheek an exibiton, so time will tell if I need to remove them.
  14. @CSW652, I think the mold is too small for the crossover. my guess it's the mold for the missing curved tracks, R72 & R88.
  15. Ludo

    Power Pick-up Wheelset

    @coaster As we see once more a 'new' system from LEGO, i would defenately leave the path of using the 9V connectors. 9v used 2 wire PF used 4 wires Powered up use 6 wires following system use perhaps 8 wires, then we can use UTP or telephone cabling. Guess this kind of connector is worldwide available and cheap too: and the male connector like (90° pins & straight pins - pitch = 1/10 inch = 2.54mm):