JopieK

Welcome @pookywiss. Enjoy your stay!

Welcome to Eurobricks and Train Tech @Guy! Enjoy your stay and keep sharing your experiences!

Wow! Great idea indeed. Thanks for sharing (and indeed Flickr is better as EB won't allow the images...).

I think it is a great topic for Train Tech. Very nice work and good idea!

Not yet. Great idea though!

Wow! Great review of a really nice set!

When we read this topic, http://www.eurobrick...showtopic=33819 the question is asked (actually to me, but I didn't notice it back then), how to modify the switch so it gets more possibilities. My boss asked me about it too (actually not my direct boss, but his boss ;) quite interesting to see AFOLs in all layers of organizations) and also for myself of course: I did some research: Normal switch: http://www.brickshel...ery.cgi?f=25276 Cross switch: http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=425176 http://www.brickshel...y.cgi?i=4399207 Here is the guy with the solution, but I don't really get the exact instructions: http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=147934 His instructions with my comments: Motorized Crossover Pointsby Mark J E Bellis June 20081. Remove the Switch Rails and modify the springs.Take care in removal - you do it at your own risk. I used a screwdriver under the switch rail next to its pivot. [JK: Uh, where exactly is that supposed to be? Does he mean the small moving part of the switch, so "Let the entire switch face upwards, then put a screwdriver under the switching part of the switch] A small scratch on the crossover may not be noticed as it is under the switch rail. Gradually and carefully bend the ends of the spring in order to alter the defaultposition of each switch rail relative to the slider lug that is underneath it.Remember to bend left and right switch rail springs in opposite directions! [JK: so we want all 4 switching rail parts to stand in a straight position, so that is quite logical] They should be in mirror image positions when you have finished. With springs in correct positions, both switch rails will be half way between thetwo end positions when the crossover slider is in the middle of its travel. [Yups, so don't forget the start with that in step 1!!!] In this position a train will go down the straight path from the toe end of the point. It is possible to test the spring position before clicking the pivot back into place. Do not remove a switch rail too many times or you might damage thepivot catch that holds it in place. When you have finished, trains will go down the straight paths on both sides ofthe crossover when the slider is in the middle. 2. Remove the lever frame.Take care in removal - you do it at your own risk.I used a thin modelling saw to begin the cuts, a Stanley knife to complete them andneedle files to smooth the remaining part of the lever frame. [JK: so that sounds scary, where do I cut, what exactly do I cut...] Be careful not to scratch other parts of the crossover.Be careful to avoid cutting the slider lugs (that the lever usually moves). When removed successfully, the middle should be flat apart from the 2 slider lugs.3. A 3M axle and 2 toggle joints will be used to move the slider.The middle of the axle moves the slider. 4. Pneumatic cylinders will move each end of the actuating axle.I used only the bottom nozzles because the top ones sometimes leak. Better to have reliability for long-term use at public exhibitions.Therefore I used 8 pneumatic cylinders. This design is best where the track is raised up and built into modules. You will need 8 plates height below the rail pieces to mount your crossover. 5. On the real railway, both ends of a crossover are usually actuated together. UK signal box levers and diagrams show evidence of this. Therefore, connect up the pneumatic hoses to just 2 valve switches with T-junctions. Arrange the hoses so that the crossover is straight with both switches away from you. This means one set of pneumatics up and one down at each end of the crossover. When the left lever is moved down, the crossover should move to bottom left to top right. The crossover should return to staight when the left lever is moved up again. When the right lever is moved down, the crossover should move to top left to bottom right. The crossover should return to staight when the left lever is moved up again. If both levers are moved down, the crossover will be straight, but this is not proper practice! Therefore you may wish to use levers to block such action on your control panel. 6. Place suitable parts around the motorized crossover to ballast it for your layout. The crossover has fewer studs than the 9V points, so you can use clip parts to vary the colors. I chose black for sleepers and black/dark grey mix for the ballast. This is because on my layout the crossover will be in the yard, where more ash and oil are dropped. You might like to use lighter grey ballast if your crossover is on the main line. I kept some of the dark bley crossover colour in the ballast where it was convenient. I surrounded the actuation lever with ballast to the same height. The height of the ballast allows any rail vehicle of any scale to go over the crossover because the height is limited to 1 stud height (1.6mm) above the rail. Have fun!Mark

That isn't a bad idea at all. Also adding 3D printed parts to solve certain issues...

I didn't notice it, but I haven't built that much new sets lately. Very strange, one would think these days it would become even more precise with better CNC machines available to even the masses...

Congratulations to the winners!!!

Really great review indeed! Thanks @MKJoshA! The mold marks are maybe because of the particular molds that need service as they suffer from wear and tear.

Wow Ivo, thanks for sharing! I will definitely try it. Forked it already :)

Well don't open the switch, it basically destroys it. Use the spring and tongue to your advantage. I use L-shaped tiles with 92593 on the opposite site of the normal switch knob. Works like a charm. I can't show it IRL as my LEGO is still in a warehouse waiting on the builder to finish my new LEGO basement. Also, it is a rather old topic so keep that in mind (for future topics, it is often better to open a new topic and quote the old one).

Good thinking. If we just had those pictures from a decade ago...

Aha, great that you found the culprit. Well there are a lot of AAA battery boxes (non-LEGO I mean), maybe you can obtain a part from it to fix it.

Do you have a multi-meter? You could than check the voltage of the cells and the combined cells. It should be around 9V (6x 1.5V). Apart from that, it seems to be a very straight forward PCB. There is probably a reverse polarity protection chip under the black gloop. The other (SOT-23-5 or something alike) seems to be an overvoltage protection (I can't read the numbers but something like: https://nl.mouser.com/datasheet/2/294/r1524_ec-3133291.pdf) You could check the leads of the LDO (is the input voltage correct, is the enabled pin working, what is the output if anything). There is also an alternative part number: 64228, see also: https://www.philohome.com/batteries/bat.htm

And you made it even better by turning it into LEGO :) (TLG might have a different opinion on that but never mind ;))

Very nice train indeed! Next a Cobra command blue train bridge?

Friendly reminder dear LEGO friends: Keep on topic please and try to avoid conflict, it is supposed to be a hobby and hobbies should bring fun to our lives... The world is already full of venom without us adding to it I'm afraid.

That is indeed a great idea! For now it is a reasonably sized free lunch I would say ;) Thanks @Toastie!

Gratz @StreaMRoLLeR. Great you have it now :) Enjoy it.

Alas... There is no free lunch of course.

@EvansBrickHouse thanks for joining and sharing. You should be able to link from Flickr to Eurobricks! (I have too many images at Flickr though and I should pay as they changed their license some years ago). B.t.w. I hid the other topic: sharing and talking about creations is what Eurobricks is all about but not about self-promotion and sometimes that is a thin line.

Thanks for sharing @Ferro-Friki. Looks amazing indeed. Also the smart way you placed the motors is very inventive.

Thanks for sharing @Pchan1983. I'm not much into Dreamzzz but might get the blue school bus (ah I just saw that one was Fortnite, could have been Dreamzzz maybe ;)).