ScottishDave
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Everything posted by ScottishDave
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I have updated the first post of my build thread with LXF files for my engine mod (including the thrust flaps and the entire rear half of the upper hull), the docking tunnels, the upper gun turret, the radar dish and the modified landing stand. No promises, but I might add more soon.
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That would be me again. I replaced the flaps when i realised that the 4x9 and 4x8 plates, alternated, had a near-perfect curve. Then I found that the original hull panels didn't fit. Then I gradually realised that the entire rear upper hull would have to be reworked... The thread is over here. Just in case you are seriously contemplating this one, I have added the LXF file for the engine and rear upper hull modifications to the first post: along with all the other LXF files I have generated along the way.
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Thanks, H_Solo .
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The TFA dish was me: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=106483 I also tried a brick built dish: Finally, I have a vector dish sticker design that I can send you in any resolution you desire. You will have to print it out and apply it yourself.
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It's amazing how much more the white and blue one actually LOOKS like an X-Wing. I wasn't impressed with the orange and black X-wing, but I really, really like this one. I realise that the intent was a straight "color-swap", but have you considered adding a Psiaki-style fuselage forward of the cockpit? The new X-Wing has a shorter, more steeply-sloped fuselage than the original trilogy model - with a few small changes, Mike Psiaki's design would capture it brilliantly.
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LXF can be found here
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I bet that will look superb.
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Innit just? I hope you have a spare desk or table to put it on
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I realise that I'm late to this conversation, but here goes: I bricklinked an Imperial Shuttle eighteen months ago. I used about 1000 bricks from my own lego collection and bought the rest on Bricklink. I placed ten orders in the end. The total cost was about £250. The parts which cost the most (and had to be posted from Spain IIRC) were: White Slope 75 2 x 2 x 3 Double Convex (x6) White Technic, Liftarm 1 x 9 Thick (x25) White Technic, Liftarm 1 x 2 Thin (x36) White Technic, Brick 1 x 1 with Hole (x51) - these four innocent-looking items cost a third of the price of the build: so be warned! The resulting shuttle IS rather patchwork, and has some yellowing: mainly on the wings. However, I think it looks OK - weathered, like it's been in use. I hope this helps!
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I've never been happy with the plain dish on my bricklinked UCS Millennium Falcon. I've tried a brick-built solution, and home-made stickers, and even water-slide transfers: but it still doesn't look quite right. Then I saw some leaked photos which showed the new Episode VII Falcon radar. As you can see, it looks exactly as if it has a 2x2 Lego plate mounted on the front: (photo from here) How could I resist? Here is a link to the LXF file, which contains the radar: and a mirror in case Brickshelf goes down again... Edit: Parts list, by request Here it is on my Falcon (which isn't much like a stock UCS Falcon these days, but it ought to give you some idea):
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Why not buy a few extra parts and build both: one for regular, one for Sunday best?
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I'd forgotten what a big beast the UCS Y-Wing is. From memory, Brickwright's Y-Wing is 55 to 56 studs long. The UCS Y-Wing is about 20 studs longer. There is a UCS-sized Y-Wing on flickr, but you'll have to figure out how to build it yourself, unless you can persuade the builder to share his LXF file with you. Finally, I built one myself and put the LXF file on Brickshelf. It is also 56 studs long, but it could be lengthened, especially in the cockpit and the engine... frame things. To return to our regularly scheduled program: you asked about tricky parts. In no particular order, you may struggle to find the following in the UK - or indeed anywhere for a decent price: The white domes on the front of the engines The double convex 33 degree slopes The dark orange brick with handles Any and all of the 3mm hoses The Y-Wing-specific printed cockpit canopy ... and not forgetting our old friends, the light bluish grey levers with light bluish grey bases. Good luck!
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Great. Now my Y-Wing is sulking in the corner. Soul, I have a couple of thoughts: There are different colours of 2L tube available which you could paint. You could use Flat Silver, which is very common and cheap.A quick look on bricklink shows that you can pick up 107 for 5p each from a UK-based store - and they might even look quite good unpainted. Secondly: does it have to be a 10134 Y-Wing? I can see that you are a UCS Collector, so the answer is probably "yes" (and I do respect that). However, there was a wonderful Y-Wing MOC posted on this board a few years ago, complete with instructions, which might make a worthy alternative: http://www.eurobrick...showtopic=84780
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Welcome to the board, and well done on bricklinking the UCS Falcon! Thanks for sharing your experiences - it looks like you found lots of ways to keep the cost down . I sympathise with you regarding the price: I've spent a lot more than £350 on my own bricklinked Falcon... but to be honest, that's my own fault: I keep modding it!
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This looks great! It's an excellent start. I like what you did with the nose: it's a good shape. You are absolutely right about the system x-wing engines being too small, and the design you are working on is a much better diameter. I totally appreciate that this is WIP, and you may be aware of these points already, but just in case... You may need to make the engines slightly longer, by a couple of plates. The rear part of the engines (the yellow round brick & everything aft of it) should be half a stud higher: there is a distinct offset between the forward part of the engines and the rear part. This photo hopefully shows what I mean: It's taken from the ModelerMagic gallery of the actual Red 3 x-wing model, which is as good as it gets for reference! The wedge plate you used for the rear of the wing (which has a slope of 1 by 3) is an OK choice, but the most accurate choice is a 1 in 4 slope - again, there is a photo or two on the modelermagic gallery which was shot straight down onto the wing which shows this pretty clearly. Why yes, I often hold bits of lego against my computer monitor when planning a model, doesn't everybody? Good luck with your build, and with your sophomore year.
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[Model MOC] T-47 Airspeeder (Snowspeeder)
ScottishDave replied to LiLmeFromDaFuture's topic in LEGO Star Wars
Yes, these are all excellent ideas. In fact, apart from the sloping sides to the canopy, I've done all of the above. My speeder's heatsink slopes from top to bottom. The string was not included in the LXF: but it goes around the hidden winch drum and goes out through the middle of the heatsink. The cockit interior is reasonably detailed, and the bottom of my snowspeeder is as accurate to the studio model as can be achieved in this scale - if non-SNOT and a bit bland - and I have made mine available in grey :-). However, I have always wanted to try a SNOT wing design, and your snowspeeder certainly has that. It also has that cool and interesting grille design in the engines. I also love the look of the cockpit. I'd love to figure out a way to angle your heatsink (either with dark gray 2x2 tiles or more modern 2x4s) and I have an idea about the cockpit canopy which I'm not quite ready to share just yet! -
[Model MOC] T-47 Airspeeder (Snowspeeder)
ScottishDave replied to LiLmeFromDaFuture's topic in LEGO Star Wars
Well done on completing your MOC! Thank you very much for the LXF file. I'd like to have a go at adding your wings to my MOC (to create the ultimate accurate snowspeeder )and this will help a lot. -
Well done! that is one lovely-looking snowspeeder. I especially like the smooth studless wings, and the use of the new windshield. Can we possibly see a shot with the cockpit open? The next time I rebuild my own snowspeeder, I'm going to incorporate your wings and canopy, and get the best of both worlds. I've made a start already, having spent a tenner on a lego porsche just for that windscreen.
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Totally, insanely amazing. I want one.
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BrickLinking (another) 10179 UCS Millennium Falcon
ScottishDave replied to Lobot's topic in LEGO Star Wars
Congratulations, good luck and let me know if you need any more photos. ROFL! Better hope that Chewie doesn't find out that Benny was sitting in his seat. Perhaps it's just seeing the two minifig-scale UCS sets together, but the thought occurs that if you get these two together with enough rebel fighters together on a dark grey floor, you could have a minifig-scale Home One Hangar bay scene from ROTJ. -
No problem, and I'm glad you liked it! I'm looking forward to seeing it in place on your Falcon, rollermonkey.
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Bricklinked UCS Millennium Falcon - MODded heavily
ScottishDave replied to ScottishDave's topic in LEGO Star Wars
Hi there Mr. Wonderpants, I finally got a few uninterrupted hours to take my Falcon apart for you. This is looking from the rear of the Falcon towards the front. You can see the cockpit on the right. Here is an overhead shot: Now, as to the vertical level: my new framework starts two plates below the level of the original framework. This allows me to join the old to the new using 1x3 liftarms as in the original design. This can be seen clearly in this shot of the (new) rear landing feet and the side of the docking tunnel: The red technic beam is part of the NEW framework. The yellow "L" beam is one of the last few remaining parts of the original framework. I cannot remove this piece because I cannot fill the starboard docking tunnel with beams below the floor for strength: This is where the ramp goes. I hope this helps! -- David. Edit: Flickr images not showing. -
Bricklinked UCS Millennium Falcon - MODded heavily
ScottishDave replied to ScottishDave's topic in LEGO Star Wars
Nope. Sorry! I don't have the time/energy/enthusiasm to pull it apart again right now. Why not have a go yourself, once you have the basic UCS model assembled? You can fit most of the existing framework into the landing gear boxes. You have to slim it down under the docking tunnels, and it's best to keep the mandibles, forward landing gear and the wall of technic beams they attach to as they are. Take it in stages and make sure each modification works before trying the next one: and don't expect miracles. I can pick mine up without it falling apart but it creaks and sags a little in places. This is best done to a static model designed to show off the interior. -
It's looking really good! Sorry that the nose attachment wasn't clear from the LXF - Lego Digital Designer balked at the "illegal" build.
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Chirs, Assuming that you refer to the nose of the snowespeeder - the pair of wedge plate 4 x 2 and the tiles on top of them: Yes, it is attached. There are two pairs of stud jumpers under the nose: it joins securely to the front pair, but only rests on the back pair, due to the angle of the sloping wedge plate 6 x 3s on either side. I hope this helps. -- David.