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Everything posted by ScottishDave
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It'll spring apart and send wee clip plates flying everywhere... I take all the blame. . Ah, now there's a temptation that I'm stuggling with at the moment myself... I did like your other photos, but that is just lovely . Keep up the good work!
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Thank you! And remember: great minds think alike! Your design has a few clear wins over mine: I think that your "creative" canopy is great, and easily beats my lazy re-use of Psiaki's canopy design. Personally, I'd keep it like that instead of using the TLG canopy (which I found quite disappointing). I like your nose design: It really looks the part - sharp and sleek. A few small thoughts... I see that like myself, you are UK based. When you come to build in real bricks, you may find it a wee bitty difficult getting hold of enough cams, in europe, in white, for a decent price: or the curved slope immediately in front of them. Just sayin'. The top of your engines has a nice, subtle improvement relative to mine. I might go further and suggest - a part I'm still toying with using myself. Your use of the curved tube idea looks the biz, but in real bricks, I had to add extra clips to hold it to the engine - two was not enough. This turned it from a smooth even curve into a squarer arch. Unless you have a neat and sneaky way of keeping a 3mm rigid hose from uncurling out of the position into which you have bent it? And if so, what is it please?!? .
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Exactly . Exactly . I'm tempted to buy some and spray them black... .
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Yup, those six innocent-looking little slopes are flipping expensive. Well done!
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Wow, excellent! That's a great start. Very interested to see where you are going with the nose. Just a quick suggestion - you can get rid of the entire "click hinge"/180 thing on the wing mechanism - it makes them stronger and lets you have both sets of wings the right way up. I attached the engines using a variant of the technique which billyamy used on his thread (and for much the same reason - it is a classic way to do 180 degree joins). I hope this helps!
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Thank you for the nice comments, chaps: much appreciated. I'm currently working on a black and orange one: (Yes, the canopy is non purist. Please forgive me , on the grounds that it looks really cool.)
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[WIP][MOC][UCS] EF76 Nebulon B medical frigate : The Redemption
ScottishDave replied to samlr's topic in LEGO Star Wars
That looks absolutely amazing. I'm looking forward to seeing it finished. I think you're doing an excellent job of capturing the shapes and the details of the original model. I can match up every part on your model to an original part in the photographs, and everything looks in proportion with everything else - brilliant work!- 26 replies
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- UCS
- Millennium Falcon
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Bricklinked UCS Millennium Falcon - MODded heavily
ScottishDave replied to ScottishDave's topic in LEGO Star Wars
Thank you very much! Thanks - that's an excellent resource. I used that one as reference myself back when Toro was posting WIP pictures. -
[WIP] Trying to modify my Millennium Falcon
ScottishDave replied to billyamy's topic in LEGO Star Wars
What he said, with studs on . Five years in, and I'm still finding stuff to tweak and improve... -
You're welcome! Yup, I spend too much time on that forum: mainly drooling over the 1:1 replica of the Falcon cockpit that is being built over there. Hmmm... now there is an interesting idea for a lego project! Small addendum to my original point about the flaps... I just found the Star Wars Screencaps site, and I can see on the screencaps that the hatches on the front centre leg only ARE fore and aft. So, yeah: the guys on therpf got that one wrong . You are welcome. I hope you get to join the crazy club soon!
- 52 replies
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- Custom UCS
- UCS Mod
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Bricklinked UCS Millennium Falcon - MODded heavily
ScottishDave replied to ScottishDave's topic in LEGO Star Wars
Thank you very much for the link to your flickr album. This is exacly the kind of constructive criticism / feedback that I really like: I am delighted to see you taking my ideas and making them part of your own, improved MOC! I am impressed with what you've done so far, and I am really looking forward to seeing the finished product. A few random comments: The exhaust ports look GOOD from above, and I like the diameter you've achieved on them. They seem a little tall at first glance, but they might grow on me... May I please use your solution for the docking rings? It looks perfect. . Are those 57518 in silver / Dark Bluish grey? (could be either, and either work as a colour). I like the use of the silver hubcaps in the greeblies (told you this would be random, but those caught my eye) and I see that you've made some significant changes to the cutout greeblies. It looks more like the five-footer Falcon - is this deliberate? -
Thanks for all the nice comments, guys! Thank you! The curved slopes do move around a bit, so it ain't perfect: but I'm pleased with the overall effect. You are definitely the first person to use that part on a T-70, and I apologise for not mentioning this in my original post. However, it was not a deliberate snub! What he said.... I honestly thought that you had drawn inspiration for the canopy from the Psiaki X-Wing. As TheBear knows, I already have a Psiaki-inspired T-65. My use of the part was based directly on this model, as I wanted a matching pair, like so: (with apologies for the hunk of junk photobombing the shot )
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Hi, itsalectime, and thanks for the kind words! The last parts should be arriving tomorrow. I hope to post a new topic for this mod at the weekend.
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Bricklinked UCS Millennium Falcon - MODded heavily
ScottishDave replied to ScottishDave's topic in LEGO Star Wars
Many thanks for the nice words, chaps! highaltitude, I'm very happy that you've found my modded hull plates useful. I've been intending for a while to do more LXF files, but I never seem to find the time. However, since you ask nicely, I'll make a serious attempt to digitise this area soon. In the meantime: if this helps, I built a new, stronger framework to prevent mandible sag (brought on by removing most of the framework around the cockpit). IIRC, I attached the hull plates using L-shaped brackets. I hope this helps! -
Oh man, you beat me to the punch on those wings . Nice mods, BTW. I like 'em all!
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MY engine mod (LXF available in my build thread, link in the post above yours) definitely works with my flaps mod . Daphatty's should also work, but you'll have to replace every other 2x2 plate on the top with tiles. My rear hull mod uses mostly existing pieces from the set, on the "engine deck". Hoever, the port and starboard chunks use a LOT of non-set pieces. If I were approaching this mod as a builder, I'd get hold of an LXF of the UCS Falcon (from the appropriate forum here) and delete all except the sections which are to be replaced. I'd then upload both files to rebrickable and compare the inventories...
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SO much better: thank you for that. I am unconvinced by the placement of the eyestalk ( I think that the "box wrench on top" method looks better) but other than that, I think you've nailed it.
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I love the entire thing - it looks totally badass. I like how the head looks nearly like the one on your AT-ST - but not quite. I especially like the wings. They actually LOOK like the wings on the Inquisitor's TIE, unlike the lumpen things on the official set.
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The Millennium Falcon colour thread (White, Grey or Blue!)
ScottishDave replied to appiah4's topic in LEGO Star Wars
"Rusty" red is right. The red which Lego use isn't a bad match, but the original colour has a lot more orange in it than you'd expect. These guys do pre-mixed Falcon paint colours (for the DeAgostini partwork model which is being published at the moment): http://www.starwars-doa.co.uk/doa-starwars-millennium-falcon-single-bottles-4-c.asp See how yellow the "ESB Grime" shade is? (this is the basic colour of the 32" Falcon). See how orange-y the panel red is? -
The Millennium Falcon colour thread (White, Grey or Blue!)
ScottishDave replied to appiah4's topic in LEGO Star Wars
In conclusion: it's mostly a light shade of yellowish grey, with lots of subtle colour variation: which looks grey or white depending upon the studio lighting. -
The Millennium Falcon colour thread (White, Grey or Blue!)
ScottishDave replied to appiah4's topic in LEGO Star Wars
As people have said on this thread already: The 32" studio filming miniature was painted in Floquil Grime, which has an RGB value of (231,231,223). The closest colour to Floquil Grime in the lego catalog is 208: Lght Stone Grey (also known as Very Light Blueish Grey on Bricklink) with an RGB of (229, 228, 222) Since the UCS Falcon is 32 inches long, this is the EXACT colour which it should be built in. Since we cannot do that, due to there only being 46 different parts in Light Stone Grey (and none of them terribly useful), I vote for the next nearest shade: Stone Grey (Light Blueish Grey). The colour of the original miniature looks slightly yellowish under most lighting conditions, and the hull has a variety of subtly different shades. I therefore also suggest building it with about 50% old grey parts, and the more yellowed the better. Photographed properly, it looks very convincing and not too grey at all. I've put one together just to use as an example on this thread: -
Well, that is what I did! Obviously it worked, but it's taken me five years to get it to this point, and I've lost track of how much I've spent on it (or that's what I tell the wife anyway).
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A bit of both, actually. The more I compared the UCS to pictures of the studio miniature, the more problems I could see. The Modding bug bit me deep! YMMV, and I don't want to dilute your pleasure at this amazing achievement.
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Congratulations on finishing this huge project. Good luck finding a place to put it! Personally, I'd almost forgotten what a stock UCS Falcon looks like, so thanks for the photo ;-).
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It is worth building my engine mod if you want to build the flaps. Each top flap is attached by four studs directly to the top of the modded engine. Each bottom flap is attached base-to-base using two "plate with clip light"s on their side, and to the flaps on either side using hinge plates. However, you can probably build each set of flaps seperately, if you join them together with hinge plates and then find a way to secure them to the existing engines. Some experimentation will be required. If you do create the flaps, you will have to modify the surrounding hull plates, either using my design or rolling your own.
