ScottishDave

Hello Scott-S6, nice to meet you. I see that you are man with impeccable good taste. . (Yes, I am that David). I notice that you left off the pair of 2x3 wedge plates at the back, which Lego Digital Designer wouldn't let me attach. Was it unclear where they should go? I can provide photos of the original model if that would help. The rest of the models are also very nice. There are some well-chosen MOCs in there. Just remember to leave a metre square surface for the inevitable UCS Millennium Falcon! You mean like the Stella Fighter canopy which I used on my Psiaki Xwing mod? I appreciate that it isn't for everyone, but it is a nice piece (the rest of the toy should go straight in the bin, however). It's the right colour and the right shape. It drops in nicely as a replacement for the part Mike Psiaki used. As a bonus, it even has a canopy fram painted on.

Thanks! Do you happen to have a link to pictures of the underside of Jerac's model? The two pictures on flickr show every other angle, but not that one. I'd love to see how he did it. I used photos of the actual studio model for reference (radical, I know!). I think it was this page The one thing I am unhappy about is that the grilled (intake?) area on the bottom should be narrower at the back: but in the end I decided to ignore that detail in favour of my sanity.

No problem. No, nothing like that. The LXF might have one or two small parts which are different from the instructions but I honestly think that any errors will be in less than 10 parts total, and none of them in vital areas. Well, if the one in the instructions and LXF is no good, Pellaeon showed some alternate designs further up this thread. You are most welcome.

Thank you Brickdoctor: that sounds like my cue. Thank you, Krispy, Scott and Jerac for a wonderful model. I altered Krispy's 1.4 A-Wing design to include a smooth SNOT bottom and a landing leg at the front: There are a lot more photos in my set on flickr. It should be enough to let someone recreate my modifications. If you need more photos taken from any angle, please let me know.

Thank you for posting this, TheBear. As it happens I was in the middle of sorting through my Lego looking for parts for a Krispy B-Wing this evening. I'll test out your mods as I go along .

Hi muzin. Sorry about that. It looks like Brickshelf is down. I've put the LXF file here: Executor.lxf The parts list is here: Parts List I'm 99% confident that this particular file and parts list match up with the instructions. Have fun, and do let me know if you have any further problems.

As someone who has a strong interest in Falcon mods, I shall be following this topic closely. I like what you did with the rear grilles. I think it looks better than the standard UCS version. I see that you are using 2x3 plates on the back of the landing gear boxes. It looks cool, and again better than the official Lego version. Are you planning to make the ship smoother, sleeker, less covered in pipes? This is the Falcon before Han made his "special modifications" after all!

I may have gone a bit overboard with the lights :-). I'll revisit it at some point! I also found removing the technic frame to be very difficult. I do intend at some point to revisit internal structure: at which point I will post some photos. In the meantime, here are a few pointers: I put a lot of technic beams under the floor. I doubled up on the most important beams, i.e. I put two beams side by side, joined with pins. I put plates on top of and on the bottom of the paired beams for extra strength I tried to plan "holes" in the framework (e.g. the inspection hatch in the hold.) Wherever possible I used the " 1 x 3 technic thin lift-arms with pins" to join different layers of beams for extra strength, as in the original model. I used a lot of technic rectangles and "L" beams to join it all together as strongly as possible. The bits to keep IMHO are: The beams which go out from the central hub to the ends of the docking tunnels - but you can shorten them considerably. The click-hinge bricks which act as mounting points for the curving side walls. The L-shaped bricks which go between those two (for bracing - but I am not sure that they are really needed.) The wall between the forward mandibles and the rest of the ship The support around the front landing stand, attached to that wall, between the mandibles. The rest CAN be removed and/or moved under the floor. This gives you all the room you need for a full interior. I've removed almost as much as I'd like to. Currently it looks like this: Caveats: The result is less rigid and creaks a bit when you lift it (from below, with both hands - no more swinging it around by the gun turret ). It also has a slight but worrying sag to the front, which I have compensated for by adding extra techic bushes to the forward landing stands. Finally, I could not fit in the smuggling compartments: that area had too many important beams running through it. Good luck if you intend to do this. Just remember: It is entirely possible!

Thanks! I got the basic idea from Mike Psiaki's (non-UCS) Falcon. I wasn't sure about using the droid arms at first, but they are growing on me. I'm pretty happy that I got the shape and look of the central dome right. However, I am thinking of using OceanBlue77's radar dish stand, as from the pictures I've seen, it is even more accurate than Mike's...

Thanks! Do you mean the green 1x1 round trans-green plates lining the corridors? They are representing the Falcon's corridor lighting, as seen on this render of the Falcon's corridors (I can't find a decent still from the film).

Thanks! The official model has a single gun turret (with a steering wheel for a control) and half a cockpit, with just enough room for Chewie and Han. The rest of the model is filled with technic beams and bricks. Weirdly enough: I move or removed most of those technic bits, and the ship still holds together just fine. I'll be posting again just as soon as those pesky Bricklink orders arrive, TheBear. I'm clean out of 12*3 wedge plates. Except... no. Not even Han would steal hull plates from The Executor...

Since you asked so nicely, HanShotFirst... On second thoughts: to avoid swamping this [highly useful] index, I'll post this in a new topic.

Great idea! I've been collecting references for a while now. You got most of the good UCS Mods which I know of, plus some others I hadn't seen before. Here are a couple more: Brickplumber's interior Brian Hasting's interior flicker404's exterior mods

Very true, but as seen here, 6-wide engines are more than possible. NB: this is not my MOD. I just found it.

OR you could build a better engine for less than £20 I did this just last week. I bought: 350 1x1 round plates in trans light blue (2p each, £7) 70 2x2 light bley plates (5p each, £3.50) 50 1x2 clear bricks (10p each, £5) Total cost of £15.50 plus p&p. I paid way too much for the clear bricks. I worked out later that any old yellowed, chewed bricks would do from a lighting point of view. It does have to be 1x2 bricks however, so that when you bend them, the engines take on a nice curve: I have a lighting kit on it's way. It is coming from overseas, so I won't have it this week, but I will probably have it before the end of January. I'll post more pictures when it's all wired up. In the meantime, I used a phone camera to test the lighting effect: All credit for this entire idea goes to Matt de Lanoy, who first used this idea in his awesome Falcon MOC (a ship which my shabby old bricklinked 10179 is not worthy to polish the hatch covers of). Of course, all of this does mean that I have two original light bley boat riggings which I have no further use for...

It's a clone brick from an MY Stella Fighter- feel free to lose all respect for me now . The mini SSD is a lovely model, though and well worth building. Many thanks to Pellaeon for his hard work designing it and for his kind permission in allowing me to post the LXF file. I'm glad you don't mind me posting the instructions also! Yes, they did enjoy the model very much. It's just the right size to go on their windowsill, and it isn't too delicate: it survived being paraded through the house in front of a dozen or so bemused non-fan aunts and uncles.

I do sympathise: I also have a Psiaki X-Wing and a bricklinked Falcon. It is an expensive hobby. I used a lot of my own parts to build the Mini SSD. However, I estimate that it would cost about £100 to bricklink. There are some things which you can do to make it cheaper: - the interior frame is not very visible. Choose muted, dark colours and it will look fine. - the exact details of the city are totally optional, apart from the bridge of course . You can also use light grey for the city... I simply preferred the look of the dark grey. - You don't have to use old-style 2/3 finger plate hinges. clip and handle hinges will work just as well in most places. I hope this helps.

I have created PDF instructions for this model. Please note that these two files are both about 50 MB, due to extensive use of large graphics. Book One Book Two I have also updated my LXF model, which is in the same location as before. This version has updated engines (taken from Pellaeon's original design). This model can be used to generate a parts list, using SuperKalle's excellent LDD Manager. I don't think I changed much during the journey from LXF -> LDR -> MPD -> PDF, so any parts list created from the LXF should be pretty accurate. I did this mainly as a Christmas present for my nephews, Jedi J (10) and Darth D (7). As they were intended for KFOLs the instructions are pretty dumbed-down, with just a few pieces per step. The boys tell me that attaching the outer hull to the framework was the only tricky bit - they got the placement of the hinges off by one stud and had to try again. If anyone wishes to beta-test the instructions further, please feel free to let me know about any problems you encounter. I can't promise a quick response but if I ever generate an updated set of instructions I'll take any feedback into consideration. Just to be clear: The LXF and PDF files linked in this post are not intended for commercial use. Please do not sell copies of the PDFs, or models based upon this material. Thanks.

I was thinking about that. In order to fit your city onto my frame, all you need is an extra half-plate's worth of width on either side. How about: Thanks!

Indeedy. A Super Star Destroyer is "meant" to be eleven miles long (controversially ignoring the inconsistent offical figures and going to the straight dope). This model is about 22 inches long. Each "stud" therefore represents 275 metres. An A-wing is 10 metres long. By my calculations, an in-scale A-Wing would be 0.2 mm long. I'd better keep my windows closed in case a midgie decides to make a suicide run on my bridge deflector shield...

Many thanks for the pictures of the frame. It isn't as messy as all that! Agreed: My frame is thicker (especially at the bottom). It is also narrower. This is down to the angle of the internal A-Frame. This also makes my "city" narrower, and with fewer "streets". This is however the trade-off for a better angle at the nose. So that's how you did it! Most excellent work, sir: well worth being pleased with. My next version will include this design. What does the bar at the back connect to? A technic axle holder or pin?

Leoparder, that's a very good question. My LXF was not designed to be built from 10221-1. However, it shares a lot of parts - mainly the light grey plates and wedge plates. You can get a good start using the official set. In fact, going by the numbers of key parts, you can probably build the outer hulls of six or seven midi-scale from one official set. Maybe eight. Hmmm. An entire fleet... However, glancing through the parts list for the official set, I can see some that some important pieces are missing from 10221-1 (shame on you, Lego!): - the hinge plates for the A-frame - the engines - the clip plates and bars along the sides which hold the lower hull on. Also, there are far fewer types of greeblies for the upper city. You may be able to substitute other types of hinges, and I would suggest building the city in light grey. The details of the city are less important: just use any bits you have lying around and try to get the shape about right. That's what I did. I suggest that if you want a precise answer, you take my LXF and run it through LDD Manager to generate a parts list, then compare to the inventory from the offical set. I'm sure that with some clever part substitution and careful refactoring of the midi-scale model, you can get the overlap to a maximum!

So glad you liked it. I wouldn't want to upset Admiral Thrawn's right-hand man. I am thinking of making some instructions. My nephew wants one of these for Christmas. However, this is no small task. I am rapidly coming to appreciate just how well-designed and carefully thought out official lego instructions are. It is rather daunting. Full disclosure: the A-Frame on my MOC was copied from a French-language forum. I figured that it would probably work as the hull-plates on the centreline of both models were the same wege plate. As you have noted, it did make the nose align better. I think, however, that it also made my MOC slightly narrower and pushed the profile up a bit higher that your original. I've been toying with the idea of lowering the profile using a half-stud offset - jumper plates or a pair of 1x2 plates strategically placed - at the back of the A-frame. If I get it precisely correct, the nose will still align but the overall profile will be flatter and the model will be slightly wider (and probably more accurate). It is a lot of work, however. If I build another one for the nephew I will look into it. Seconded!

I'm afraid that I do not have a nice instruction PDF to sell you. However, I have obtained permission from Pellaeon to share with you my Executor LXF file, which I based on his model. Click on the image to download the LXF file: As you can see, my model is very similar (although not identical). I made some changes to the upper city, and the internal frame is quite different. I have built this model in physical bricks, but I am embarrased to admit that due to an accident involving a camera, a stream and a daughter, there are no decent pictures. I do have some rather badly lit and blurry iPhone 3GS photos on dropbox. Unavoidably, there are issues caused by the translation to LDD. I have managed to keep these to a minimum, but there are a couple of things to watch out for: * The two halves of the lower hull refused to close all the way up on LDD. In real life they are flush with the tile plates on the centre-line. There is also a 1x2 plate missing on LDD from just aft of the lower city/docking bay. * I used "1 x 1 cone bricks" (4589) pushed into "Technic mid-driving rings" (32187 ) for the larger size of engine on the physical model, to emulate the look of Pelleaon's original. However, the technic part won't join to anything except a technic axle in LDD. Hence I had to switch to using the smaller wheels ( 42610 ) for all the engines on the LDD model. * On the physical model, the bridge is held on by a "1x1 tile with clip" ( 2555 ) again as on Pellaeon's original. This refused to work in LDD, so I had to improvise. There is no such part as a 1x1 round plate with open stud in dark blueish gray (or light blueish gray for that matter, as used on the mini Star Destroyer) * The upper hull is held on with a pair of "1x1 plates with clips" (6019) on the physical model. These join onto the 1x2 plates with handles at the back. These parts could not be placed on the LXF file.

My point exactly... the bottom of Larry Lars' model was, IMHO, the weakest part: but nonetheless it is one of the best snowspeeder undersides out there: beaten only by Marshal Banana's design. I do keep hoping that someone has come up with a better basic design for this part of the snowspeeder, and as I said I'd love to see what siseon has done with the underside of his model. It's all total self-interest, of course: I'm hoping for some ideas to "research" to help improve my own snowspeeder design .