dhc6twinotter

I actually kinda like this set. It looks like a good parts pack, and all those red panels are nice! 3x11 and new 3x11 curved panels too! It looks like an easy set to RC. One thing that bugs me though: There are 6 throttle bodies for a V4 engine (I think it's a V4).

I'll pass on the loader, unless I find one super cheap. Poor steering, slow loader operation, and bulky cab design don't really interest me that much. I wasn't expecting a working engine though, so that's nice! The yellow rims and new bucket are awesome though! Hopefully, this is just a preliminary model that still has some redesigns. The loaders by efferman and D3K are much better, imho. The red truck is much better than I anticipated. The overall looks of it is pretty awesome. It's nice to see the old suspension arms still in use, and it's great to see all the red panels. I'll have to see the price before I decide to buy it, but I like what I see so far.

Another amazing car by Paul! This car has some great lines to it, and great job placing all the panels! Nice use of new parts, and that hood mechanism is great. Any pictures of the rear axle?

Welcome to the forum! I think it's generally about 2 years. There have been times in the past where sets were re-released though, and the modular buildings seem to have a 4-5 year production run (at least Fire Brigade was out that long).

I have a hard time distinguishing between the greys when I'm using incandescent light, but if I'm using fluorescent or LED lighting, it's pretty easy. I keep my old grey, but haven't really used it much. One of these days I may sort through my black parts, although that difference is so minute it's probably not worth it.

Very cool. Hopefully somebody from TLG will see this and offer it in future sets.

Awesome machine! Colors work together well. The lever type ( or whatever they are called) LA mounts on the boom are intriguing. Bucket is built superbly, and reverse mounting the LAs on the bucket must have been a bit tricky. Love the fans too! I see there are three u-joints at the boom/bucket connection. I suppose one u-joint is for the bucket open/close and one for the LAs that tip the bucket, but what is the third u-joint for? Very nicely done. :thumbup:

Welcome to the forum! Several things I would check: 1) Make sure the CVs are connected into each of the rear wheel hubs and differential. See instruction manual page 64 2) On instruction manual page 53, steps 1 and 2, make sure the tan axle with stud is placed correctly. If this part is inserted backwards (from the inside of the grey frame), the stud part may contact the differential and keep it form turning. 3) Check to see if the axles going into the engine block are in all the way. If they back out and one end of the crankshaft is not supported, the pistons can bind and make it harder to move. Check the grey axle on instruction manual page 69, and the red axle (not the red pin) on page 70, step 6. (I doubt this is a cause, but could be a possibility--check the other two first) That's all I can think of. My guess is a CV or axle came out during assembly.

Thanks for the links! For some reason the pdf in post #9 won't open for me (says there is an error or something), but I just downloaded a pdf from page 2 in that thread. It has some excellent info. Thanks for the link! I've had another look at the first link you posted in your previous post here. I saw that picture several days ago, but I assumed it was for an RC plane and dismissed it. However, after digging around a bit more, I've found the source of that picture, and it appears to be from the actual P-38 plans. If that is the case, then it appears the combat/maneuver flap setting is not a "hybrid" split/fowler flap, but just another setting on the fowler flaps. So, it seems my earlier sources were incorrect, and the combat/maneuver setting does move the flap back and down. This should make things much easier to build with LEGO (still a fun challenge though). I also spent an hour or so studying the landing gear diagram last night. It took me a while, but I figured out the location of the landing gear actuators and how they worked. As for the size of the plane, I'd like to make it smaller than the Piper Super Cub I built a couple years ago. If I can keep the overall length down to under a meter, than I'll be happy. Smaller the better, but scaling the cockpit down is a challenge, especially with all the linkages for the working levers and buttons (rudders, elevator, ailerons, flaps, prop pitch, throttle, dive flaps, radiator shutters, bomb/fuel tank release, and landing gear). Nice thing about the P-38 is that I do have some space under the cockpit to use, so long as I leave enough room for the nose gear. I don't want the cockpit section to be any wider than 11 studs, and the booms about 9 studs at their widest points. Main landing gear will probably use the tires from the mobile crane. Thanks very much for the help!

That's what I thought, but wasn't sure. I like the hole in the center. That would support the sun gear nicely. Is there anything that would prevent the planet gears from working loose and falling out of the turntable side? BTW, nice Inventor drawings. I recently installed Inventor as well, but have not played around with it.

Looks great! I can't really tell which parts are fixed and which spin, but I assume the part with the pin connectors is attached to the dish with 4 holes in it (sorry not sure what to call it)? And, that dish snaps into the turntable and spins freely? I would love to see LEGO offer something like this.

Looks really good! For the wheel side, I vote for having pin connectors.

If you don't want to use LAs, 8439 is a great set that has articulated steering and a working steering wheel. You may be able to copy the steering system from this. D3K has an articulated steering system on his swing loader, and I believe instructions are available for it. It does use mini-LAs, and I don't think it has a working steering wheel. That may have been me. I built one a couple years ago. I don't have very good pictures of the articulation joint, but here are a few pictures (assuming stupid new flickr works): That was before mini-LAs came out, and if I were to do it again, I'd probably use mini-LAs. No working steering wheel with this model either.

Thanks for the links! I've seen the picture and the image in the first link, but I haven't seen the image in the 2nd link, and it's a much better diagram. I've been planning to use a dual slide like those links show, but the part I'm stuck on is the combat/maneuver flap position that the newer P-38s have (J or L variant and onwards--can't remember which). It's sort of a "hybrid" split and fowler flap. When combat (or some places call it maneuver) setting is selected, the flaps just drop a bit and don't slide back. When in landing configuration, the flaps slide back and down. I'm going to try a pneumatic flaps system that still allows for incremental adjustments, but I've yet to test it. I want to get the cockpit and landing gear sorted out before I begin working on the flaps. EDIT: I'm looking at the diagram in the first link again, and it has a maneuver setting labeled. According to the diagram, the flaps do move back when maneuver setting is selected, but that's inconsistent with what I've read elsewhere. I think I have more research to do.

Every time my email blows up with replies from this topic, I think pictures have been posted. And nothing…. dur...

I'm working on the cockpit controls of my P-38. Fitting all the working levers and buttons is a challenge. Also working on the right hand engine/landing gear/prop pitch mechanism. I've been trying to dig up diagrams of the P-38 landing gear actuators and their locations, but so far have been unsuccessful. I may have to make up my own design in this area. Same with the flap guides. I'll start a WIP thread once I get a little further along. Awesome!

I agree.

That is a very nice loader! Excellent job building the body! Is there a planetary gear set in the wheels?

Looking good! If you have the space, a couple more 16t gears and three 24t gears can work for your configuration. Or, you could use a couple 12t gears, a couple of 20t gears, and three 24t gears if you want a bit more gear reduction.

If there is a servo in the set, it would be for steering. I think a servo with 1:2 or 1:3 reduction would be enough to operate the articulated steering, but It would probably be a bit jerky. Honestly, I would prefer to see an M or L motor and LAs for the steering, but a servo motor sounds intriguing. It makes for a nice parts pack as well. A gearbox isn't needed when you only have 4 functions. That would make things unnecessarily complicated and ruin playability. A servo would not be ideal for a gearbox anyways--if there were a servo moving the driving rings, the person operating the remote control would have to constantly keep the driving ring engaged and simultaneously operate whatever function. This uses unnecessary battery juice, and is more complicated to play with. An M or L motor geared through a clutch gear would be more ideal for a simple two position gearbox. 2 L motors for the bucket, XL for drive, and servo (if correct) for steering makes much more sense to me. But, I've been wrong in the past, so who knows…. Just my $.02.

I've seen quite a few 2014 LEGO sets at the LEGO stores, but no 2014 Technic sets yet. I think the only exception is the twin rotor helicopter, which I seem to recall seeing at a store.

Looking great! Sptifire is a great plane to replicate!

Awesome! I just watched the 1st half of the movie again a few months ago with my nieces and nephew. I thought it looked like a great LEGO project, and it's awesome to see you building this!

Here in the states, I prefer Delta. I don't fly international much, but a few months ago I flew Asiana to the Philippines, with a layover in Seoul. I've heard iffy things about their pilot training, but the customer service is the best I've seen. It was an 11 hour flight, and we had two meal services, a hot snack between meals, and we were constantly being offered drinks, all in economy. I'd like to fly them again once their A380 and A350 aircraft arrive. Last year, I flew on Cathay Pacific to the Philippines. Overall service was not as great as Asiana, but the flight attendants were much more helpful, mainly because they spoke English well (Asiana flight attendants not so much). Cathay Pacific also had less seat pitch than Asiana. I'd like to try Singapore Airlines or Korean Airlines on my next trip to the Philippines. I've heard good things about both airlines.

Most turbo-props have the ability to change blade pitch, which helps when slowing down. I've attached a picture with the ailerons and flaps labeled. -The ailerons are towards the tips of the wings and control the roll of the plane. They move up and down. -There are also trim tabs on each aileron, and they allow the pilots to make fine adjustments that control the level flight of the plane. They move up and down. Not really necessary on a LEGO model, unless you want to add that extra little detail. -The flaps on the Saab340 appear to be a single flap on each wing that runs beneath the engine exhaust. The flaps provide additional lift at low speeds. The Saab340 uses single-slotted flaps with offset hinges. They move down. They don't move upwards (unless being retracted of course). The Saab340 does not have spoilers. Hope that helps! Looks like an awesome project! Here is a link to some info that might help: http://www.saabgroup... ever built.pdf