dhc6twinotter

I don't use a whole lot of old-school Technic parts anymore, but a moc I'm working on right now will use some old 20x30 tires. Another moc of mine will probably end up using the older square bottom pneumatic cylinders, unless I can find some pneumatic cylinder brackets for cheap. I like using one of the older suspension pieces for trailer hitches. I plan on using some of the old 9V flashing lights and sirens on some future mocs.

Here is the picture in question: Grum, it looks like the entire back-end, from the top of the license plate down, is built sideways using SNOT technique. The flat blue and white pieces around the license plate are tiles. The bumper is held on with and the rest of the lower section is built with this . The lower section uses looks like there an upside-down tile on the bottom, and this is probably achieved by using a "1x1 stud with stud on side". The rear of the fenders have some upside-down parts, but I'm not sure how this was achieved. There are several ways that can be accomplished. I'm sorry I'm not very good at the LEGO CAD programs. EDIT: Sorry about the links not working. This forum software is being glitchy and I'm not able to properly edit it. You can copy and paste into your browser to see them.

This is amazing. The floor jack, drill press, radio, and air compressor are great, but I think my favorite part of this is the awesome engine hoist. Nice jack-stands too. Really, really great build.

You can set up a block and tackle (multiple pulleys) to lift heavier loads. You can set up as many pulleys as you want. Each pulley will give you additional lifting capacity, but your lift speed will also be slower, plus you will need longer string. Here's a bit more info: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pulley A good video: [media] [/media]There is a video floating around of a Toyota Land Cruiser with a 2500kg winch pulling out a 51,000kg excavator. They used a compound winch setup and two addition pieces of machinery as anchor points. Here's a link about it from another forum I frequent: http://www.ultimatey...ound-winching�� If you are a member of Yuku, you can view the video here: http://tow411.yuku.com/login/loginnow/ Anyways, you can also use gears to get more torque on your drum. A small gear on your motor and large gear on your drum will give you less speed and more torque (lifting power in this case). You could use multiple gears together for more lifting capabilities. Worm gears also provide more torque, and they come with the added benefit of not being able to be back driven (your load won't unwind your drum and motor). In a nutshell, if I were building a crane, I would use all of the above together. I would use a block and tackle setup on the line, gear reduction between the motor and drum, and a worm gear to prevent back drive.

Looks good! The engine reminds me of some of the old X-engines from years ago, like this 24 cylinder Allison: http://oldmachinepress.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/allison-x-4520-rrhtab-front.jpg Pretty neat engines, and pretty different from the radials as well.

I've also heard that the V2 can't run two m motors on the same port. I'm not sure why, nor have I tried it. Supposedly, the m motors are being changed to be compatible with the V2.

That's pretty awesome!

I just picked up the snowmobile at my local TRU. I think it was the only 2014 Technic sets they had. Edit: Sorry, meant TRU instead of TLG.

Awesome car! Rear suspension is sweet, and I really like the roll cage setup. Nicely done! :thumbup:

Very nice crane! I really like the functioning bucket. Awesome horse head too!

That is correct. 42009 is also an excellent set, especially from a parts-pack perspective.

I don't really buy into the notion that the LEGO modulars offer clues to future modulars, but for the sake of playing along, I'll offer the following clues from the PR: Turkey--Maybe a butcher shop? Pie--Maybe a bakery? Scooter--Maybe a scooter dealer/repair shop? Menu--A print shop?

Both 8043 and 8110 sets are really good, and I think selecting which one to buy really depends on what you plan to do with the sets. If you are into displaying the sets, then both sets have a nice wow-factor. If you are looking at playability, then I think the remote controlled 8043 is better. If you want a set that offers a good parts assortment, then it really depends on what you want to build. 8110 would be more useful if you want suspension parts for 4x4 Crawlers, or other off road vehicles. 8043 would be more useful if you plan on building construction equipment. 8110 has pneumatics, 8043 has linear actuators. 8110 has more parts, but 8043 has more PF elements. They are very different sets, and It's hard to say which one is better. They are both great. It really depends on what you want to do with the set. Kroes, since you specifically asked which of the two sets is the most interesting in terms of the solutions adopted and mechanisms, I would say 8043. The gearbox is marvelous, as well as the drivetrain going down to the tracks and boom LAs. Because 8110 uses pneumatics, it mechanisms aren't as complicated as 8043. 8110, 8043, and 42030 are all pretty different and compliment each other well.

A modular museum would be awesome, especially if it were something like a transportation museum. It could include a small train locomotive, old car, and maybe even an old plane. A set like that would probably be $$$$$$$ though...

Hey Kane! My name is Daniel (or Dan--whichever you prefer), and job permitting, I hope to be there as well this year. I should have some Technic stuff to display, and maybe a little something for my LUG's display.

Somebody over in the City section built a really neat bumper cars ride. There have been numerous roller-coasters posted here as well. The LUG I'm part of just started a theme park that they display at various events. I haven't seen it in person yet, but I do know they have a carousel and one of those drop rides (nxt powered). I'd like to contribute a log flume, rotating observation tower, and maybe a few other rides. I think a theme park or fair ground is a great idea, and it adds some nice movement to a layout. It will be neat to see what you come up with.

Efferman, you're doing an excellent job designing these. TLG should hire you as a parts designer.

The CV used for the Unimog steering is the only one I can think of, but I've never actually looked to see if the axle moves within the CV housing. With the geometry of the steering shaft and suspension set up like it is, I would think there is some movement, but I'm not sure.

Awesome project! I like how you built those tracks. I never realized the halftracks used chains. Pretty interesting!

1) Find something I want to build 2) Write down the functions and what kind of motor should power it 3) If more than 8 functions, I group the functions into the most logical pairs to operate through a gearbox 4) Make a rough sketch of gearing and functions layout 5) Scale to tires 6) Build the insides first, starting with the hardest part(s) 7) Build body 8) Test and probably rebuild (I often rebuild most parts of a moc at least once, sometimes many more times)

Entry 1 - 2 points Entry 5 - 3 points Entry 6 - 1 point

Welcome to the forum! It's nice to have you here!

Hey all, So, this is a project I've been working on for the past 10 months or so. This is a remote control backhoe based on the JCB 3CX. I know there are a few pictures of this floating around the forum, but I wanted to go ahead and post up a thread about it. There are 9 motors, and 12 functions (11 if you don't count the gearbox selector as a function). Functions: Drive | 2 XL motors Steer | 1 m motor Boom | 1 XL motor Gearbox Mode Switch | 1 m motor Dipperstick | 1 m motor* Dipper | 1 m motor* Dipperstick Extension | 1 m motor* Boom Slew | 1 m motor* Right Stabilizer | 1 m motor* Left Stabilizer | 1 m motor* Loader | 1 m motor* Loader Scoop | 1 m motor* Working steering wheel Fake I4 engine with moving pistons and fan *Functions operated through gearbox Specifications: 3 XL motors 6 m motors 2 battery boxes 5 IR receivers 3 extension wires 1 set LED lights 10 linear actuators 1 mini linear actuator 4 wheel drive with center differential 8 output gearbox Pendular front axle 8.4 pounds 25x140 studs (approximate) 5500 pieces (approximate) Pictures: LEGO didn't make a wheel large enough, so I had to piece together my own. For each of the rear wheels, I built an internal frame and each wheel has 32 smaller LEGO tires stretched around the frame. This took forever to do. If you've been to BrickFair or BrickCon, you may have seen this on display at those events. Since BrickFair, I've rebuilt the front axle, built the battery boxe enclosures, added a 2nd LA on the boom, and geared down the LA that operates the dipperstick. After BrickCon, I rebuilt the front axle again, removed one level of gear reduction on the boom LAs (it moves quicker now), and redesigned the boom gearing that operates the LA on the dipper scoop. All in all, I'm really happy with how it turned out. Some of the motors are straining a bit, and knowing what I know now, I think I'd do one or two things differently. In the future, I'd like to build a pneumatic version with a few more functions. That will be in a while, and I have a list of mocs I'd like to build prior to another backhoe. Anyways, just thought I'd show you all my project. More pictures on my Brickshelf And on my Flickr Thanks! Daniel

Thanks Dennis! The wheels were pretty difficult and took about 4 hours each. I built them at work. Thanks for the music tip! Saved to my bookmarks. Jurgen's is better. My backhoe is larger with a few more functions, like the independently controlled stabilizer, extending stick, fake engine, 4WD with center diff, and dual drive motors; but all this adds weight, complexity, and takes more room. My backhoe worked ok at the first couple of shows, although I did break a couple of the old style 16t gears at Brickfair. Paul Boratko was kind enough to give me a few of the new style gears, which held up great. After those first few shows, some problems started to develop. Some of those problems were probably a result of a last minute design change that, while a good idea, wasn't implemented properly and ended up putting stress on the drivelines for a few functions. Lots of lessons learned on this moc. I'm sure Jurgen's backhoe is much better designed, and I think it has a much more efficient layout, especially placing the motors in the boom. Someday I'd like to build a second version, and hopefully with some additional functions and a smaller package.

I did make a day trip to Waterton Lakes National Peace Park in Alberta, Canada. The CA border patrol took me in for questioning when they noticed my car full of stuff. That set me back an hour or so, but that wasn't as bad as the U.S. border patrol taking my tomatoes upon re-entry to the states. I also drove along the north side of the Olympic Peninsula in Washington State, and Vancouver Island was within view. Never made it to Mexico, but I did get close a couple times. I drove along Arizona state road 80 and passed through Douglas, AZ. Douglas was a mile or so from the Mexican border. I also visited Big Bend National Park, and I was literally a stone's throw from Mexico. I even had a Mexican ride his horse across the Rio Grand to sell me some trinkets. And yes, I've done plenty of oil changes. I actually put about 35,000 miles on the 4Runner during the 1.5 years I was away from home, but I didn't count 10,000 since most of that was driving around southern California while staying with friends for several months.