Merkurius

12v layouts, track geometry and rules

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I am struggling with my 12v layout plans in my basement. I have now some space for a more or less permanent layout, but I cant figure out how to put my tables in a good way and at the same time create an interesting track layout. I've been googling for days for some 12v geometry info (I always seems to end up with a half straight section to much), how it is possible (and inpossible) to connect two tracks together, vertical/horizonal etc. Of course, I can make a pretty good layout but it has to be maintainable, i.e, I have to be able to put an off-track train on-track again and so on, and I dont want to have the landscape on the floor either.

Does anyone know some resources for 12v geometry, does/donts, layout hints etc? (If needed, I have pics of room and tables for use in Bluebrick)

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The best way to design 12v layouts in Bluebrick that have multiple loops is to make sure the first straight track you place on the 2nd loop is right next to (and the ends line up) a section of straight in the first loop. If not right next to then exactly 8 studs gap or multiples of. From there it should be easy enough to link the two (or more) loops using points/switches. There are lots of 12 layout plans on Brickshelf, just search "12v layout", hopefully they'll show you what's possible and give you some ideas.

Andy

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just play with it, when u lay it out u will continually change it to your happy.. any amount of bluebrick doesnt = what u put down on your tables as the 12V has a big of flex so it can do a little more than what bluebrick will allow u

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Looks great - I may need to go to eBay to get a little more track...

And buy a bigger house :)

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I love the layout as you basically have two connected loops on which trains can run independently. Some ideas:

  1. If you have stop lights you could add them on the connecting segments in order to control trains switching loops.
  2. Furthermore to add complexity, you could electronically divide the two loops and control each of them with a separate transformer.
  3. Finally, you could add an incline to the outer loop crossing itself, but you need a lot of tracks +-18 track entities to climb and descend. It looks like you do not have enough space for this. Some extra "climbing tracks" can be obtained by moving the switch on the left backwards. If you do this, 2. is a benefit as you will be able to control the climbing and descending speed on the outer loop. Especially, if more trains are running on the layout, the extra transformer power can be helpful.

Keep us posted!

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I have actually two stop lights but havent thought of where to put them. Can you explain a bit more?

I going to have two or three transformers since the motor is slowing down when it's to far away from the transformers "connect-point".

This is basically all track I have (some more straights with interruption). I have five motors=trains to drive simultaneously.

Thanks a lot for advices/ideas!

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I going to have two or three transformers since the motor is slowing down when it's to far away from the transformers "connect-point".

u probably dont need to run more transformers, BUT run serveral extra connections from your transformer to each corner of your layout to keep power even... just make sure u kepe the polarity right

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That is fantastic. What material is the green underlayment? My first post here! Building a table this weekend with my son to accomodate our, oops, I mean his, new Cargo train(60052.

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Its some fleece blankets, really cheap (appr. 1, 5€ each). Tested my 7740 tonight :-D. But how am i going to manage 5 trains and 4 points without crasching?

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Its some fleece blankets, really cheap (appr. 1, 5€ each). Tested my 7740 tonight :-D. But how am i going to manage 5 trains and 4 points without crasching?

with great difficulty

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If there is room for it on the outside of the outer loop, you could make a siding and use your stop signal to make one of the trains stop there from time to time. The same with the inner loop, where there looks to be room for a siding inside the U-turn in the front of the picture. That way controlling the trains becomes easier. If you need more track parts, you can look for them at BrickLink.

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I have a point almost farest away, simply because I have to, to be able to connect the inner loop. Sadly, that point will very seldom be used. How can I use it in another way?

I really have to edit my profile to show all my trains. I have a bit more than just 7710..

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Does anyone know some resources for 12v geometry, does/donts, layout hints etc? (If needed, I have pics of room and tables for use in Bluebrick)

12v is probably the Cadillac of all of the lego train systems. It had remote control switches, block signals, uncouplers (that reportedly don't work very reliably), and active grade crossings all sold by lego. The track and motors are designed for much steeper grades than the subsequent train systems. A good place to start is the lego idea book 7777. If you do some digging, you can find many other great ideas for 12v and 4.5v layouts (e.g., I think there are 3-4 older train idea books that probably have more layout ideas- also available on peeron, and a few ads that at the time seemed impossible to ever get all the parts to build [at least as a kid] but now seem very achievable as an AFOL, and several train specific catalogs from mid 70's to mid 80's).

The one oddity of 12v/4.5v if you come to it from 9v/pf is the switch geometry. In the latter the new track winds up 16 studs away, while in the former it only winds up 8 studs away. So it limits the width of trains on passing tracks to 6 wide plus hand rails or other detailing out to 8 wide, but presumably you've already realized that.

I going to have two or three transformers since the motor is slowing down when it's to far away from the transformers "connect-point".

u probably dont need to run more transformers, BUT run serveral extra connections from your transformer to each corner of your layout to keep power even... just make sure u kepe the polarity right

Same is true with 9v

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