Ashi Valkoinen

LDD MOC: ZET Koncar TMK2200

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I've not written to these forums for a while, however I was reading it, now after the new RailBricks Issue 15 came out, including my Stadler FLIRTs I'd like to introduce an another LEGO creation of mine from the last weeks.

I spent a long weekend in Zagreb and got inspired by the trams running in the city. they were produced by the croatian Koncar company and are 100% low floor, in 2007 more then 140 of these trams were operating in the capital of Croatia. Additionally, the whole tram network in Zagreb is narrow gauge (1000 mm), which means more fun while designing this tram. I used some solutions from my previous narrow gauge MOC, my Stadler GTW.

Pictures, please note, that this tram is still in WIP phase, so slight changes will be made on it:

View from the side, only three cars have boogies, two other sections are suspended:

3_s.png

Front design, original tram has lot of curves, to make it harder to build from non-curved parts:

4_s.png

Reference pictures for the tram:

http://www.brickshel...-2200-b-800.jpg

http://www.brickshel...k2200-a-600.jpg

the gauge is still question for me, the train is 7W, so I could set up "standard" LEGO narrow gauge (when two studs between rail elements, like indiana jones and alien narrow gauge curved tracks), but it fits better to IRL 760 mm tracks than to 1000 mm. To create 1000 mm narrow gauge track I'll need to create tracks for the tram, with 3 studs between rail elements.

For driving the tram I plan to use the Power Funtions system, driving the middle section of the train. The distance between the axles is the same what the PF Train Motor has, instead of using gearing and M-motors to drive the tram I'll try to set up with SNOT technique the PF Train Motor above the middle boogie, connecting it with simple 12 tooth bevels, so there will be less energy loss, keeping the speed of the dedicated train motor.

Moar pictures later, I hope I will have the money to buy all the things I need for this creation. :)

5.png

Please leave comments and critics!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This tram seems really similar to the Siemens Combino type, i guess.

Do you plan on hiding the battery box and IR receiver somewhere in the tram? I am not sure you'll be able to do that, but I've heard of people using a 9V battery instead. I can easily see that being hidden somewhere along the roof. If you can hide the IR receiver somewhere, you´re golden and everyone will be asking where the batteries are ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My Koncar tram's design is almost finished, now only slight changes could occur.

img_4039_s.png

I faced serious problems with making the tram motorised, one single RC or PF train motor can't even move the tram, so at least two, or maybe three motors needed to give the proper speed to the tram. Placing train motors or other motors above the driven axles will consume all the space for designed interior, so I decided to try something unconventional:

img_4036_s.png

The train motor could be totally hidden in the roof, while only those rubbers will take some place from the interor, but I can still keep all the seats! Placing the battery box and the IR receiver into the roof of this section worked, while pulling only this section, I hope three motors will make it run.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi all,

remember this topic at all?

After one and half year finally I had the time and the money to take care of this MOC of mine, so I update it's topic as well.

The body of the tram was almost finished, I didn't want to make any major changes on it, but I really wished for see it run on narrow gauge train track. To make this more fun, the tram runs on not the standard narrow gauge (2 studs between rails, like indiana jones tracks or alien base black track), but a brick built track with 3 studs between the rails. It was also a requirement from me to me not to consume noticable space from the indoors - I like to keep my train MOCs for passangers and not for electric parts.

The first attempt for driving the wheels was this:

img_4036_s.png

The tram's body is 7 studs wide, on studs 1 and 7 are the technic bricks holding the axles, the remaining 5 studs inside is divided in the following order: half stud wide technic bush, train wheel, gap, train wheel, half stud wide bush. The bushes are connected with rubbers to other ones on 5 studs long axles, put inside a train motor placed on the roof, not sacrificing interior. I experienced two major problem with this setting.

1. Not fitting on the track I designed - unfortunately the width of the train wheels are not one stud and not a half, but the two PF train wheels' width together is 1.5 studs. So using two half technic bushes as spacing on the two end of a 5 stud long place makes the tram's gauge less then the track - and it falls between the rails.

2. No space for battery in that car where the train motor is mounted without sacrificing interior - putting a battery pack in other tram modul will result in no adherence between the driven axles and the track, because no weight over the driven axles is.

So I had to figure out something else. I was sure that I have to mount the battery pack, the IR-receiver and some kind of motor to the first car - enough weight, close receiver for lights and motor as well. But how? Then I discovered one of these nice PF M-motors at home, I was afraid that it can't pull the whole tram, but I gave a try to it.

koncar_new_wip01.png

Battery pack and IR-receiver on the top. Due to the 4 bricks height of the rechargeable battery pack it takes up a little space from the inside, but it is a reasonable compromise for me.

koncar_new_wip02.png

M-motor attached to one axle. First I planned to drive both axles in the first modul of the tram, but I experienced only troubles to do that since I'd never built technic stuff before. It took five hours first to figure out how to lock the motor with couple of stud-connections to the totally brick-based tram body without falling or moving after 5-6 second of working. When the motor was finally locked well, it started to push down the closer driven axle, since it was held by only two 1×1 technic bricks to the tram body. Finally I decided to give up both axles driven, and made stronger connection to the tram body for the only driven axle. There was a 2 hour long build where to exactly put the battery box, first it was above the driven axle, but all front of the tram became to light in weight, so frist axle derailed in curves, when I put the battery on the top of the first axle - then the driven one couldn't make the tram run. Finally I designed a little different and stronger coupling between the tram modules and put back the battery pack to the top of the driven axle.

koncar_new_wip03.png

Every modules are connected with two technic beams - one end fixed, other end can turn around using a simple pin. The structure of the coupling allows the 5 stud wide interior all along the length of the tram.

Then I put everything together... and of course, it didn't move on the oval track built from 16 pieces of 12V track gray curves and 2 pieces of straights. Then I remembered to remove the adherence rubber from all train wheels, still not working.

So, photo of the driven modul's bottom once again:

koncar_new_wip02.png

If you look closely, you can see that the tram's wheel arrangement on the axle is not totally symmetric. As I wrote above, if I put half technic bushes on both sides on the axle, the wheels will fall between the rails, and unfortunately no quarter bush exist to put it on both sides. Later I discovered that if I leave the wheels at exactly the same distance from each other as the track gauge is then the friction will make the tram stop in curves. So with the exception of the driven axle I put the wheels on the axles a little closer to each other, with the bush-less gap on themselves axles can move a little bit sideways in their blue technic bricks holding them - and magically the tram started to operate finally. With only one little M-motor.

That's for today, in couple of days I'll upload a video of the tram running and photos of my track design - I'm just waiting for more tracks, these 12V track segments are a perfect way to create your own gauge LEGO train track. I also plan to make a brick built 90 degrees level crossing between my normal gauge and narrow gauge track - I'm waiting for it to see it once in real operation. :)

Comments and critics always welcome.

Edited by Ashi Valkoinen

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A lot of excellent ideas, as usual. Seeing your model I want to ask if you thought to use for the floor the 4539880 beam frame 5 x 7 or something similar. It might be less heavier than the system bricks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.