efferman

Axle Collection Thread

Recommended Posts

22 hours ago, LithuanianLegoFan said:

I am very sorry

Every start is bumpy, so don't worry, you'll learn with time :wink:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I am currently working on an independent, steered, and all wheel drive chassis for a Sd.kfz. 234, an 8x8 armored car. Though I have run into an issue with the steering linkages, due to the method I had to utilize to make the chassis more compact, there are issues with travel in the steering links. Anyone have a good suggestion to solving this problem? 

current progress on LDD https://www.bricksafe.com/files/Tommy_styrvoky/Sdkfz 234.lxf

41222408022_068fd91c2e_c.jpgLego Sd.kfz. 234 chassis WIP by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr

39456733010_c4cd34f07d_c.jpgLego Sd.kfz. 234 chassis WIP by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr

Edited by Tommy Styrvoky

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Did you build this in real life? Unfortunately, the front axles will not work. The CV joint would prevent any suspension movement. Also, the wheels can not be placed fully on the axles of the CV joints as shown, as this would result it the wheel jamming against the suspension arms. If you can afford the width, I'd use the 8070 hubs for the steering axles.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Saberwing40k said:

Did you build this in real life? Unfortunately, the front axles will not work. The CV joint would prevent any suspension movement. Also, the wheels can not be placed fully on the axles of the CV joints as shown, as this would result it the wheel jamming against the suspension arms. If you can afford the width, I'd use the 8070 hubs for the steering axles.

I could swap the CV joints out for u-joints, and I think I will try to space the hubs 1/2 a stud from the steering arms. I am trying to keep the suspension around 15 studs wide, otherwise it will be too wide for scale. I have been doing a lot of digital building, as I am currently at college, also I don't have a set of the steering arms. As I want to keep the axles around 3 studs tall, otherwise, it will be too bulky for this vehicle.

Edited by Tommy Styrvoky

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
23 minutes ago, Tommy Styrvoky said:

I could swap the CV joints out for u-joints,

That won't change anything, because joint pivotpoint will be out of steering and suspension pivot point with these hubs. Maybe somehow also small turntable can be used, but they are not usable for steering + independent suspension.

I tried something like this before

800x448.jpg

But You are trying to do almost impossible things.

That solution in the middle with small turntable is interesting, but it seems not necessary to use it there.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@Tommy StyrvokyI'm intrigued. I have tried this kind of wheel connection with the CV joints, and I think it can work. You won't get much vertical travel, but you may get enough for this scale. I'll try it tonight in real bricks to see if I can get you some feedback.

I'm not clear of the benefits of using the turntables to transmit drive torque, as it seems to cause some trouble with the steering link and it's bulky. Why do you want them? Could you do something like this or this? Using the 5L suspension arms might also give you a little more room.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
10 hours ago, Tommy Styrvoky said:

I am currently working on an independent, steered, and all wheel drive chassis for a Sd.kfz. 234, an 8x8 armored car. Though I have run into an issue with the steering linkages, due to the method I had to utilize to make the chassis more compact, there are issues with travel in the steering links. Anyone have a good suggestion to solving this problem? 

current progress on LDD https://www.bricksafe.com/files/Tommy_styrvoky/Sdkfz 234.lxf

 

Not only will your steering links bump into the CV-joints, the CV-joints will also make a sharper angle than the wheels, making the max steering angle even less than the max angle of a CV-joint, which is no more than 20 degrees.

Edited by Didumos69

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

These are the axles I used on my trucks, i hope they can help.

Volvo FMX 8x8

640x388.jpg

640x378.jpg

 

Tatra Phoenix Agro Truck 6x6

640x368.jpg

640x477.jpg

 

LDD files are on my Bricksafe page. (there are no separate files for axles, only for the whole trucks)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Thirdwigg said:

@Tommy StyrvokyI'm intrigued. I have tried this kind of wheel connection with the CV joints, and I think it can work. You won't get much vertical travel, but you may get enough for this scale. I'll try it tonight in real bricks to see if I can get you some feedback.

I'm not clear of the benefits of using the turntables to transmit drive torque, as it seems to cause some trouble with the steering link and it's bulky. Why do you want them? Could you do something like this or this? Using the 5L suspension arms might also give you a little more room.

The only reason I used the turntables is that they allowed me to place u-joints on either side of the axle, then there is only one stud of space between the u-joints, thus supporting them and making the axle rigid would be easier to do with the turntable. I will see if the solutions you suggested will work.

I am only going to need 3-4 studs of travel in the suspension. 

reference image of the chassis. 

sdkfz234chassis.JPG 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry Tommy, I have tried my best, but I can not make a suspension system that fits the width and height requirement. It is at this point that you have to ask yourself what you want out of the model. If you want it to function correctly, I'd recommend using some narrower suspension that is 5 studs tall. Doing all you want and being only 3 studs tall seems to be more or less impossible. Or, if you really want to properly replicate everything out of that chassis, I'd say you should look into using 24x43 tires. Those would be perfect, and only increase the size a little bit. Just my 2 cents.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
40 minutes ago, Saberwing40k said:

Sorry Tommy, I have tried my best, but I can not make a suspension system that fits the width and height requirement. It is at this point that you have to ask yourself what you want out of the model. If you want it to function correctly, I'd recommend using some narrower suspension that is 5 studs tall. Doing all you want and being only 3 studs tall seems to be more or less impossible. Or, if you really want to properly replicate everything out of that chassis, I'd say you should look into using 24x43 tires. Those would be perfect, and only increase the size a little bit. Just my 2 cents.

It's fine, I kind of expected this to be nearly impossible, though I will see if I can swap out the turntables, and that will solve the steering issue. worst case, I could just have the 1st and 4th axles just steered and suspended. This is only one of the first challenges with this model, the next one will be to fit the motors into the compact hull of this vehicle.

This is the rough dimensions of the model, it may be a little large, as the suspension is wider. 800x384.jpg

800x353.jpg

Edited by Tommy Styrvoky

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

here is a idea for rear truck axle with 18 studs overall width if you want to use old differential

800x1422.jpg

800x1422.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm afraid, that gear could slip under heavier load. But good solution with integrated downgear.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I could "reinforce a part around gear with 8 tooth by making axle a bit bigger and make distance between frames 3 studs instead one stud, so, gear 8 tooth will be "inside" frame 5 x 7. It is not meant (in my case) to be used for heavy load, but for manual hook loader truck 6 x 2 or for container truck 6 x 2. I got the idea yesterday when arranging dark bluish gray parts and noticed that I have lots of "old" differentials...

thanks  @Jurss for any kind of info based on your experience :thumbup:

Edited by I_Igor

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Rear axle from my latest MOC:
4efc47850538934.jpg 

Almost De Dion.
Double wishbone, 2 Links, 4 Shhock aborbers, torsion bar, mechanikal brakes, drive. 11 touch points.
Click to enlarge.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So I have a request.  

On my latest build, I stopped at the front axle because I just got stuck and could not figure out a compact solution.  I was trying to make a 17L driven, steerable with independent suspension semi truck style axle, I successfully made a 19L, but I could not get it to 17L with any luck. 

Does anyone have a suggestion?    

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks, but I tried something just like it and it turned out too wide.  I am finding that it is hardest to get the driving aspect of an axle 17L.  

Here is an image of your axle next to the finished rear axle of my build.  Pretty significant difference. 

800x494.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I see, so you want its total width (including tires) to be 17, then I can suggest below but you need to make them narrow or wider unfortunately.

this truck uses 42009 tires so should be same scale what you are working on I guess: https://bricksafe.com/files/scynox/scania-truck/scania_truck_2axle_v2.lxf

800x450.jpg

this truck's total width is 19. the front axle uses "Technic Axle and Pin Connector Perpendicular 3L with 2 Pin Holes" as arms. maybe you can change it to 2L perpendicular versions which will make the truck 17 width with tires.

OR

this pickup is 15L but has smaller tires: https://bricksafe.com/files/scynox/black-pickup/pickup.lxf

principle is similar, you just need to extend the main 5x7 frame one stud wider at front.

800x450.jpg

 

offtopic: I always thought "17L" axle means it does not count hubs and only arms plus chassis should be 17 width? is it wrong?

Edited by scynox

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
21 minutes ago, scynox said:

offtopic: I always thought "17L" axle means it does not count hubs and only arms plus chassis should be 17 width? is it wrong?

1

honestly, I am not sure.  I always measured wheel to wheel, I'm sure others measure hub to hub 

EDIT:  looking at the LXF file of the first one you suggested, I built that exact axle (from this LDD) and the steering radius was no good.  Having the shock in between the axle housing and the steering gear rack does not give much room for steering movement. 

Edited by aminnich

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I thought @aminnich wanted also independent suspension. I woulds, say, that driven axle with independent suspension for that size is impossible. Maybe somehow without differential.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
7 hours ago, Jurss said:

I thought @aminnich wanted also independent suspension. I woulds, say, that driven axle with independent suspension for that size is impossible. Maybe somehow without differential.

That's is kinda what I thought.  I feel like I have 2 options: different suspension option OR independent suspension without being driven.  I think I will just go with the non-driven axle, should make things easy anyway.  

I am mainly going with independent suspension so that the axle is "hard" attached to the chassis instead of kinda floating there.  

Thanks for all the input, I appreciate it!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.