Bricklinked UCS Millennium Falcon - MODded heavily

[ScottishDave]

This post last updated: 24th February 2017 with LXF file of 90% complete outer hull and Engines.

LXF files can be found at the bottom of this post.

I started this project in 2010 with a Bricklinked UCS 10179-1 Falcon. I immediately started building a full interior, heavily inspired by Matt De Lanoy's Falcon (not a mod of the UCS Falcon, but very nice).

Most recent overall pictures

Engine modifications

WIP photos and comments:

This is a a strip of 18 cool white LEDs on a 30cm sticky-backed strip: they cost about £8.

As you can see, I’ve stuck them in at about 10 studs from the engine “grilles". They look great when lit, both in full darkness and with the room lights on. The LEDs are pointing straight at the grilles and there are lots of them. Sorry to any purists reading that they aren’t Lego LEDs, but 18 power function LEDs and a battery box would have set me back about £150!

The rest of the LEDs are a LifeLites eLites Advanced 2 kit bought from www.BricksForKids.com in France. These LEDs are designed to be compatible with lego bricks, e.g. they are 3mm wide and the switch box sits on a 2 x 4 lego Technic plate. I plan to use them for floodlights, landing lights and interior lighting. I haven’t fitted them yet. I’ll post more pics when I do.

Since I now have a nice curve on the engines, I decided to take advantage of it to get the "Thrust Vector Baffles" sorted out:

I borrowed the idea wholesale from Matt De Lanoy, once again (I really need to buy that man a beer sometime). The alternatives which I considered were this by OceanBlue77, or this by Brian Tobin.

Since I was doing the engines anyway, I redid the entire rear hull:

More pictures are available on my Flickr set. Comments, criticisms and - especially - ideas on how to improve this model are all very welcome.

LXF files:

Added 24th Feb 2017:

Complete Top and Bottom Hull plus Engines

Added 13th October 2015:

Engine Mod and Rear Hull as pictured above.

Upper Docking Tunnels (From OceanBlue77's mod): Port Starboard

Episode VII (The Force Awakens) Radar Dish (see seperate thread)

Upper Gun Turret (no major mods, just a re-skin)

Landing Gear(template, really need to finish this)

Added 17th Jan 2016:

Brick-built round dish (LXF) (XML)

Added 26th Feb 2016:

Engine mod - just the engine grille (LXF) (XLS)

Edited February 24, 2017 by ScottishDave
Added new LXF file of 90% complete hull and engines.

[TheBear]

The engines look superb lit up and all the changes you've made look great. I look forward to seeing future updates!

[Nom Carver]

Beautiful!!! the official model doesn't have any interiors does it?

[ScottishDave]

Beautiful!!! the official model doesn't have any interiors does it?

Thanks! The official model has a single gun turret (with a steering wheel for a control) and half a cockpit, with just enough room for Chewie and Han. The rest of the model is filled with technic beams and bricks. Weirdly enough: I move or removed most of those technic bits, and the ship still holds together just fine.

The engines look superb lit up and all the changes you've made look great. I look forward to seeing future updates!

I'll be posting again just as soon as those pesky Bricklink orders arrive, TheBear. I'm clean out of 12*3 wedge plates. Except... no. Not even Han would steal hull plates from The Executor...

[Kelso]

The mod looks great, and those lit up engines... awesome!

[Concept]

Well done, the thing is big enough to fit some interiors inside of it so why not if it doesn't fall apart lol. I like the rounded entry way and the round chess board, oh and the lights! :)

[draganb]

There's wonders to be done with the recent flod of cheap led strips. Good job!

[BrickieB]

Very cool!

[Commander Colt]

I really like the mods! Very nice, very accurate, and the lighting looks wonderful! I like the archways, but I'm not sure on the number of green lights for the interior?

[deanorth]

really nice, trying to do the interior too but so far couldn't find the way to make it rigid enough to not fall apart:)

[ScottishDave]

I'm not sure on the number of green lights for the interior?

I may have gone a bit overboard with the lights :-). I'll revisit it at some point!

really nice, trying to do the interior too but so far couldn't find the way to make it rigid enough to not fall apart:)

I also found removing the technic frame to be very difficult. I do intend at some point to revisit internal structure: at which point I will post some photos. In the meantime, here are a few pointers:

• I put a lot of technic beams under the floor.
  
• I doubled up on the most important beams, i.e. I put two beams side by side, joined with pins.
  
• I put plates on top of and on the bottom of the paired beams for extra strength
  
• I tried to plan "holes" in the framework (e.g. the inspection hatch in the hold.)
  
• Wherever possible I used the " 1 x 3 technic thin lift-arms with pins" to join different layers of beams for extra strength, as in the original model.
  
• I used a lot of technic rectangles and "L" beams to join it all together as strongly as possible.
  

The bits to keep IMHO are:

• The beams which go out from the central hub to the ends of the docking tunnels - but you can shorten them considerably.
  
• The click-hinge bricks which act as mounting points for the curving side walls.
  
• The L-shaped bricks which go between those two (for bracing - but I am not sure that they are really needed.)
  
• The wall between the forward mandibles and the rest of the ship
  
• The support around the front landing stand, attached to that wall, between the mandibles.
  

The rest CAN be removed and/or moved under the floor. This gives you all the room you need for a full interior.

I've removed almost as much as I'd like to. Currently it looks like this:

Caveats:

The result is less rigid and creaks a bit when you lift it (from below, with both hands - no more swinging it around by the gun turret ).

It also has a slight but worrying sag to the front, which I have compensated for by adding extra techic bushes to the forward landing stands.

Finally, I could not fit in the smuggling compartments: that area had too many important beams running through it.

Good luck if you intend to do this. Just remember: It is entirely possible!

Edited January 24, 2014 by ScottishDave

[deanorth]

thanks for your hints though, I do intend to do this once I receive my second UCS, but your work will help a lot, that is for sure.

[ScottishDave]

In the first post: I got bored and started reworking the engines on my UCS Millennium Falcon clone.

In this update: I got a bit carried away. I've now made changes to almost every part of the upper hull. I'm not finished yet: I still want to resize the turrets, and then I need to tackle the underside, the engine room and especially the framework (to fix a nasty case of mandible sag which the old girl has picked up) but I'm taking a breather for a few weeks.

I spent a lot of time examining detailed photos of the 32-inch Falcon studio model. I won't claim that my interpretation is is perfect, but it is a whole lot closer to the actual studio model than the original UCS was. I've managed to squeeze in most of the pipes and a lot of the greeblies.

I’m quite pleased with the way the hull plates worked out. For the rear engine deck I took a lot of inspiration from Mike Psiaki's incomplete Falcon. All the parts on the engine deck are just about where they ought to be. The 8x8 circular "vents" are too large, but I’ve yet to see an alternative that I like. Does anyone have any bright ideas? It needs to be 6 studs wide.

The circular access ports on the mandibles are in the correct position, and nearly the correct size. (They should be 5 studs wide. Again: can anyone suggest a better part?)

Here is another WIP picture for comparison. The 6-stud-wide access ports that Lego used (on the right) are far too big. Because they are so large, the edge of the main hull is pushed further back until it is oval, nor circular:

The greeblies on the sides of the mandibles are now accurately positioned and the wedge plates on the mandibles are the correct angle. I used the older 4x8 with notch wedge plates, which are perfect for the job. There is now also a lip over the greeblies running two thirds of the way along the mandibles.

I tried a few times to buy a UCS Falcon radar dish on ebay, but got frustrated with the silly prices. In the end I spent a few hours with a vector drawing package and came up with this. Click on the thumbnail to open full size on Brickshelf.

Alternate URL in case Brickshelf goes down again.

I suggest that you print it out onto clear sticky-backed vinyl, spray it with varnish or inkjet fixative, cut as close to the edge of the actual design as you dare and apply carefully. Cut out thin triangles between the individual radial elements for a better fit on the curved dish.

The inner square and outer circle are guidelines. If you cut them off as closely as possible, the sticker should fit perfectly over the central four studs and go almost to the outer notches on the 10x10 dish.

If you've sealed it with varnish, you can use the soapy water trick to get it into position.

More pictures are available in my flickr set.

As usual, all comments and suggestions are welcome.

Edited August 4, 2014 by ScottishDave

[Bob De Quatre]

Some really nice work here!

For the vents I'd use an upsidedown "6x6 dish" and a "4x4 dish with grill pattern"... that of course doesn't exists

Edit: Maybe use a 75937

[ReflectioN]

Excellent thread! Lots of inspiration for my own Falcon.

Has anyone ever created a detailed guide (with lotsa photos or a pdf) for creating a full interior?

[Lobot]

Hi ScottishDave, firstly apologies for the delay in posting, I intended to reply when you started this thread but must have got side-tracked!

I've had a major thing for the UCS Falcons myself and it's interesting to see some of the changes you've made. I particularly like the re-designed engines and, combined with the LEDs, it's a great improvement on the original. I also love what you've done with the top plates in that area. However, I'm not too sure about the extensive use of dark-green trans studs in the interior, it's a bit too distracting for me

Keep up the great work, I'm looking forward to seeing the final version

[ScottishDave]

However, I'm not too sure about the extensive use of dark-green trans studs in the interior, it's a bit too distracting for me

Well, I might possibly (cough) have put too many in the corridor. I've seen some better references since then and counted the lights a bit more carefully (There are four! Lights! ... oops, sorry, wrong show).

Keep up the great work, I'm looking forward to seeing the final version

Thank you for your kind words. It will happen. I'm currently being sidetracked by a Krispy/RenegadeClone B-Wing (light relief after the Falcon) but I will get back to it at some point.

Has anyone ever created a detailed guide (with lotsa photos or a pdf) for creating a full interior?

Not that I've ever seen. If you do find one, please post it here. I'd love to know how to build the interior properly.

For the vents I'd use an upsidedown "6x6 dish"

That could work. I think you'd have to recess the dishes to get the right effect - otherwise the undersides would be visible and distracting.

and a "4x4 dish with grill pattern"... that of course doesn't exists Edit: Maybe use a 75937

Nice one, Bob. Either works for me (I can create my own vinyl stickers, y'know) or I could use a black/Dark bley 4x4 round plate.

[Robert_88]

Nice job! This is a model where you can (or maybe even should) use obviously used parts.

Maybe I will use LEDs in my Falcon as well (when I have all parts).

[Wonderpants]

ScottishDave, did you ever get a pic of the Falcon that shows the modified framework? Acquired a BLed Falcon a few days ago and am planning an interior...

[ScottishDave]

Nope.

Sorry! I don't have the time/energy/enthusiasm to pull it apart again right now.

Why not have a go yourself, once you have the basic UCS model assembled?

You can fit most of the existing framework into the landing gear boxes. You have to slim it down under the docking tunnels, and it's best to keep the mandibles, forward landing gear and the wall of technic beams they attach to as they are.

Take it in stages and make sure each modification works before trying the next one: and don't expect miracles. I can pick mine up without it falling apart but it creaks and sags a little in places. This is best done to a static model designed to show off the interior.

[IronFish]

Was the UCS Millennium Falcon minifigure scale? Even if it's not this still looks awesome!

[GuyDudeMan27]

Was the UCS Millennium Falcon minifigure scale? Even if it's not this still looks awesome!

It is. Modding one can do wonders. I wanna BL one myself but I don't make the time or money.

Edited July 1, 2015 by GuyDudeMan27

[Wonderpants]

Making a start on relocating the technic frame to allow for an interior. I've moved the support frame for one of the rear landing gears under the floor of the landing pod and am working on doing the same for the central frame,

Scottishdave, what level did you use to make the floor: the top of the landing gear pods or the boarding ramp, as I'm wondering whether to drop the floor if possible so minifigs can fit inside when the roof is on.

Edited July 4, 2015 by Wonderpants

[ScottishDave]

Hi there Mr. Wonderpants,

I finally got a few uninterrupted hours to take my Falcon apart for you. This is looking from the rear of the Falcon towards the front. You can see the cockpit on the right.

Here is an overhead shot:

Now, as to the vertical level: my new framework starts two plates below the level of the original framework. This allows me to join the old to the new using 1x3 liftarms as in the original design.

This can be seen clearly in this shot of the (new) rear landing feet and the side of the docking tunnel:

The red technic beam is part of the NEW framework. The yellow "L" beam is one of the last few remaining parts of the original framework. I cannot remove this piece because I cannot fill the starboard docking tunnel with beams below the floor for strength: This is where the ramp goes.

I hope this helps!

-- David.

Edit: Flickr images not showing.

Edited October 12, 2015 by ScottishDave

[Wonderpants]

Thanks for taking the trouble, fella! :-)

As you probably saw, I made a start on reworking the frame, but quickly ran out of parts. So I'll finish actually building the Falcon, and then work on it in LDD so I know what parts to get.