jrathfon

Narrow Gauge 3 Axle Power Functions Bogie

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Hey Guys,

Currently purchasing parts for my first project (more on that later), but starting plan the next one. I am looking to build a narrow gauge steam locomotive and railway with the Indiana Jones track. I am looking at a classic 4-6-0 ten-wheeler, similar to the Lone Ranger Constitution but scaled more to narrow gauge. Ala Walter E. Disney:

320px-Walt_Disney_World_Railroad_train.jpg

or more like Tweetsie No. 12:

2150.1381273824.jpg

To scale to narrow gauge on the 3-wide IJ track I wanted to use 50254 for the leading truck wheels and three sets of 55423 for the drivers. My issue is gearing the drivers while still making it look like a steamer on the outside. I am aware of Space2310's bogie, but was trying to keep the outside a little less clunky and just having a driver rod with something like 32065 or custom Zephyr rods.

So I am asking for your help to design a 3 axle narrow gauge PF bogie, hopefully internally framed. The center axle probably has to be floating to contend with the 3-wide sharp curved IJ track... Any bogie gurus out there?!

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This was done a few years ago and space___

(Forget full username) posted great pictures and even built working Ij points. The model was of a Japanese train - was definitely on Flickr. Try using google search with added keyword of site:eurobricks.com and you will find it.

My handy is not ideal for searching - sorry

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Hey roamingstudio,

I have that truck design in my first post:

I am aware of Space2310's bogie, but was trying to keep the outside a little less clunky and just having a driver rod with something like 32065 or custom Zephyr rods.

The issue I am having with that truck is adding a third center axle. He uses a 3 wide technic piece to hold the drive rod, the issue is there is only 2 wide space inside the truck, so you can't use this in the center of the middle axle. I need to somehow mount that middle axle with still having a central drive rod. Or find some other driving linkage.

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Awesome, Thanks! I think I am going to give up powering the train from the loco, using Space's bogies in the tender. The Tweetsie tender is squat but long, so I should be able to cram everything in there.

The issue I would see with Ashi's is the connective frame is outside the drivers, which I wouldn't do with a steamer.

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Awesome, that at least gave me some ideas for future narrow gauge trains. I decided on motorizing the tender as I don't think I could get the boiler look I wanted with gearing and motor inside. I will still have to make a piece of rolling stock with the battery.

I went for a ~6 wide version of "Tweetsie" the last remaining locomotive from the East Tennessee and Western North Carolina Railroad's old 3ft narrow gauge line. Currently it survives in the "Tweetsie Railroad" park in NW hilly NC, so maybe I'll have a chance to ride on it one day. I scaled everything from a pic ala SavatheAggie and also borrowed his boiler design. The loco looks a little oversized on it's wheels for two reasons, One, Tweetsie is a BIG ten-wheeler and is big on its wheels to begin with. Two, I will be using BBB medium drivers, which are bigger than the PF wheels currently in the model.

Without further ado:

tweetsie2.jpg

I am going to angle the cow catcher on the front using red hosing, and certain parts like the nose are illegal constructions, so they are placed slightly out of alignment (e.g. the nose is one brick out from the front, and the tank holders on the side are rotated up to allow space). The technic rods are place holders for driving rods from Zephyr, hopefully valve gear. Rods will be coupled using the BBB medium drivers. I will also be adding hosing along many of the clips. And the nozzle will be replaced with a gold hand for the safety valve. I'll also be doing gold details like the original (above).

All in all looks pretty good. An M or L motor will fit in the tender powered with Space's truck design. Blind driver in the middle with 1 brick of sliding room for the sharp IJ curves.

Comments, suggestions? I think the proportions are pretty good for a BIG narrow gauge engine. Almost the size of the Constitution, but we 3-wide trucks.

Thanks!

Edited by jrathfon

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I hope so, with the Zephyr rods. That "robot body" tank piece has a technic rod hole (plus sign), but about one brick of play as just a normal round hole. I think if I do the correct valve gear it should work. This is why the leading truck is decoupled from the two front pistons. I have a couple mounting options for the upper support on the valve gear, I'm just worried about the leading truck clearance on the tight IJ track. IJ track is in the mail, although currently I am working on an E7 pair of locos, so I won't be building this for at least a month.

I will also be adding front pieces to the two trucks on the tender, ala Space's design, to make them more realistic. The 5 long "technic rotor" piece with studs is just not available in LDD, as are the minifig hands, at least not that I've found anyways.

Edited by jrathfon

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The loco looks a little oversized on it's wheels for two reasons, One, Tweetsie is a BIG ten-wheeler and is big on its wheels to begin with. Two, I will be using BBB medium drivers, which are bigger than the PF wheels currently in the model.

Wow, great little build and yes, the "oversized" look was typical of many narrow gauge locomotives. If you have any questions about the custom rods, just drop a PM here or on bricklink.

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You're going to want as much weight on those driving wheels as possible. Will your 3 axle locomotive take the turns?

This is actually all in the brick now. I'll post photos in a bit when I get finished with decals/striping. The tender is powering this train with an M-motor. The loco works fine in the tight IJ turns due to having a blind medium driver in the middle from BBB. The tender motor does however tend to slip a bunch, I am going to do some troubleshooting and will probably add better/stickier o-rings to the drive wheels on the tender, as well as add as much weight as I can inside the tiny space (houses an M-motor and the IR receiver).

More to come!

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Although this thread is 2.5 years old, I am still actually working on this loco. I was working to get the drive train running well on a Space style layout (using old gray track). Haven't touched this in a while, but once I get the rods working I still need to gold pin stripe and decal the loco. Updates to come... at some point (likely 12 months...).

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Although this thread is 2.5 years old, I am still actually working on this loco. I was working to get the drive train running well on a Space style layout (using old gray track). Haven't touched this in a while, but once I get the rods working I still need to gold pin stripe and decal the loco. Updates to come... at some point (likely 12 months...).

That is so cool and so dedicated to a project. :thumbup:

Besides that, even though im so new to trains i love the look of it. Looking forward to what it will look like IRL !

Ive had my hanging gardens around for almost one and a half year and Im finally almost done with it. However Ive wanted to take it apart so many times as time have passed.

Experienced anything similar with your project ?

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Hey Man, when do you intend on completing the project? and when you do, when do you suppose on showing photos of the completed thing? I actually made Tweetsie #12, but it's in standard Lego gauge. It looks okay, not nearly as good as yours. (I actually live an hour and a half from the real Tweetsie) although I have some suggestions, first up, the spacing between the front of the smokebox and the smokebox itself needs to be filled in if not moved in. and number 2, change the smokebox door from the red color to black or dark grey, and if so desired, change the smooth stud representing the number plate to red. mine is gold like yours. other than that, well done.

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18 hours ago, tweetsie12 said:

Hey Man, when do you intend on completing the project? and when you do, when do you suppose on showing photos of the completed thing? I actually made Tweetsie #12, but it's in standard Lego gauge. It looks okay, not nearly as good as yours. (I actually live an hour and a half from the real Tweetsie) although I have some suggestions, first up, the spacing between the front of the smokebox and the smokebox itself needs to be filled in if not moved in. and number 2, change the smokebox door from the red color to black or dark grey, and if so desired, change the smooth stud representing the number plate to red. mine is gold like yours. other than that, well done.

Hi Tweetsie 12,

I saw your standard gauge Tweetsie model in the past, looks great! Mine has actually been built in the flesh for 2 years now, but needs tweaking and this is due to not having good track options. Right now with R24 lego track, the driver flanges bind a bit, and the leading bogie interferes with the drivers. Having a Flange-Blind-Flange arrangement with R24 track is tough. Because of this small binding, the motorized tender (with Space's bogie design) tends to slip and spin (it works great on straights!). I bought up a bunch of loose 12V curve rail, but just haven't been motivated to build a full layout and mess with track spacing, much like how the Puffing Billy layout was pulled off.

As for the smokebox spacings, you are correct. The above rendering is of my poor LDD skills. In my real life model that radar dish sits back 1 stud further and flush with the smokebox (so it looks like how you describe). I scaled the model from an engineering drawing and it's as close to proportions as possible.

What's left to do is finalize track, so I can finalize the driver linkage, so I can finalize the model and DECAL. I have gold striping, etc. to finish her out. Check out the other two narrow gauge track threads for updates on track solutions!

Edited by jrathfon

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On 12/22/2016 at 11:52 AM, jrathfon said:

Hi Tweetsie 12,

I saw your standard gauge Tweetsie model in the past, looks great! Mine has actually been built in the flesh for 2 years now, but needs tweaking and this is due to not having good track options. Right now with R24 lego track, the driver flanges bind a bit, and the leading bogie interferes with the drivers. Having a Flange-Blind-Flange arrangement with R24 track is tough. Because of this small binding, the motorized tender (with Space's bogie design) tends to slip and spin (it works great on straights!). I bought up a bunch of loose 12V curve rail, but just haven't been motivated to build a full layout and mess with track spacing, much like how the Puffing Billy layout was pulled off.

As for the smokebox spacings, you are correct. The above rendering is of my poor LDD skills. In my real life model that radar dish sits back 1 stud further and flush with the smokebox (so it looks like how you describe). I scaled the model from an engineering drawing and it's as close to proportions as possible.

What's left to do is finalize track, so I can finalize the driver linkage, so I can finalize the model and DECAL. I have gold striping, etc. to finish her out. Check out the other two narrow gauge track threads for updates on track solutions!

  Cool bro. do you intend on giving the .lxf file for people so they can download this wonderful model to ldd and then to build on their own?

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