Andromeda

12V Signal switch dissassembly and repair

Recommended Posts

I have decided to put together this thread for those of you who are wondering how to get inside and potentially fix your old 12V signal switch. This I think was the first incarnation of the switch, with coil like wiring and round sockets - not the later triangular

The hardest part is removing the 2 x 8 studded piece from the top of the unit. You have to break the chemical welds that are in the six places shown in the picture. There is a slight groove around the whole outside edge of the 2 x 8, in the part that looks similar to a 2 x 8 plate.

1.jpg2.jpg

I was 12 when I did this so finesse was not high priority. I would suggest using a sharp blade and running it around the groove, then trying to pries it off.

I haven’t tried this, but maybe drill a hole in each top corner of the bottom of the unit and use a tool to push the top off. I’d drill in the center of each of the stud locking corner circle(see blue circles on underneath photo and bear in mind that the circles are just off pic)

3.jpg

With that done you need to flip it over and insert a small screwdriver into each of the three rectangular holes to un-clip the buttons. Don’t lose the springs!

4.jpg

Operation:

5.jpg

When the red ‘stop’ button(S2) is pressed, S2.1 is raised to connect with the negative(P-) rail. S1.3 remains connected to the positive(P+) rail, giving + on C3 and – on C2 to power the red LED. C4 and 5 are open circuit at this time – stopping the train, and C1 is not used.

6.jpg

7.jpg

When the green ‘go’ button(S1.1&1.2), S1.3 is raised to connect with the negative(P-) rail. S2 remain connected to the positive(P+) rail, giving - on C3 and + on C2 to power the green LED. With S1.1 depressed, C4 & 5 are connected and the train moves!

8.jpg

9.jpg

If you break any of the button clips then you can MEK/melt or glue another piece of plastic to repair it – see pictures. I have some other good tutorials here at Eurobricks on using MEK to solvent weld ogeL.

10.jpg

If your button does not stay down then the little plastic nipple has come off of the bottom of the tube that the button spring sits in. A piece of wire twisted around and partially melted in at the sides was my 12 year old minds idea of a fix. Today I would use MEK to weld a new piece on.

If you have any broken coils, if they are only in one place per coil, then place both ends side by side overlapping the coils by around 4-5 turns of the coil and press together. Good luck!

Edited by Andromeda
Picture 2, I'd F'd it up

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for this nice tutorial!!! When I finish indexing more of such a topics I will put it up including yours!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Is something wrong or is it just me who cant see the pictures enlarged? I only get the thumbnails?

It is not just you, the links have been refreshed. I used the same forum link code as before... Maybe it was a forum or image hosting glitch, it's working now anyhow. :classic:

Thanks for all of your positive comments.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

that right,I used the same forum link code as before... Maybe it was a forum or image hosting glitch, it's working now anyhow. 6.gif

Edited by feijidaxia

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

that right,I used the same forum link code as before...

Thanks for confirming my sanity :sweet: !

I have just opened up a MkII Signal switch, the triangular internal socket type :classic: ! I will dissemble and take photos, watch this space...!

Edited by Andromeda

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry to bump an old thread but thanks where thanks are due, I've just successfully repaired a signal switch, thank you Andromeda. It was a simple fix, the copper contact strip had slipped and needed to be glued back in place.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello, can you please re-add the picture? I really want to see it but it's gone...

Just click on the links and then click the "download" button once you are on Imgaeshack, you will get the images.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 4/13/2016 at 2:57 AM, Andromeda said:

Hi People.

I need to find the pics, re-host and upload. Please bear with me...

does anyone have these pictures of the remote open?

 

I have three 12V Remote Control 8 x 10 with Switch Pattern -----> https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=4707pb01#T=C&C=9

 

I managed to fix one of them! Now using a multimeter I get 12v-15v in input (side plug) AND 12v-15v in output (top plug) while pressing the buttons

 

but the other two are still broken! I get 12v-15v in input (side plug) but I can't get 12v-15v in output (top plug)  while pressing the buttons :-(

I am trying to clean them, moving them but so far no luck!

 

Inside pictures would really help!

Any advice?

 

PS

thank you Andromeda for creating / sharing this thread.

 

Edited by pilgrim

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Damn, I don't have the courage to open that glued 2x8 studded piece without having even a single image to assist me.

I send a curse to all the "image sharing services" owners such as imageshack etc. that destroyed thousands of forums by suddenly making their links stop working. I curse you!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@pilgrim Sadly, this thread seems to be fairly old...

So, maybe you'll have to live up to your handle's namesake and make the foray into forgotten territory...?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Andromeda!

I have had a very busy month and only now I discover you fixed the pictures links!

Thank you so much my lego friend! ^__^

.▀█▀.█▄█.█▀█.█▄.█.█▄▀ █▄█.█▀█.█─█
─.█.─█▀█.█▀█.█.▀█.█▀▄ ─█.─█▄█.█▄█

Edited by pilgrim

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 11/20/2013 at 8:43 PM, Andromeda said:

Thanks for confirming my sanity :sweet: !

I have just opened up a MkII Signal switch, the triangular internal socket type :classic: ! I will dissemble and take photos, watch this space...!

if I understand correctly:

the "triangular version switch" has V-shaped metal inside the sockets right? (and feels cheaper pushing the buttons)

the "classic switch" has O-shaped metal inside the sockets. (and feels very elastic pushing the buttons)

 

I have both versions, but the broken one is the V-shaped!

 

I suppose the opening process is the same, so I will follow this tutorial

 

Edited by pilgrim

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I was able to "unglue" the external border... but I can't get to unglue the inside side, just above the buttons!

I am afraid that if I leverage, the buttons' plastic mechanism will break

https://imgur.com/a/PRdZKHX

 

Spoiler

cXiq7D7.jpg

Spoiler

mTT31NL.jpg

 

Edited by pilgrim

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@pilgrim

The photos look like you have not broken the chemical weld in the five places shown in the first picture of my post?

1.jpg

The top part(studs 2 x 8) slightly goes into the bottom, so the welds are towards the the bottom piece. I had messed up re-uploading the images:sceptic:.

2.jpg

You have a gen 2 switch with triangular sockets, you will find a sliding circuit board inside, which has most likely got dirty or has lost/worn out its copper traces.

Edited by Andromeda
Missed information

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
15 hours ago, Andromeda said:

@pilgrim

The photos look like you have not broken the chemical weld in the five places shown in the first picture of my post?

 

 

@Andromeda thanks for your answer.

I am sorry, my photo was bad. I think I did break the chemical in the five external places but not above the buttons.

I think I am just too scared to break the buttons, they look delicate and inserted in the 2x8 piece in a way I don't understand.

Spoiler

UED3sfr.jpg

 

Edited by pilgrim

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I haven't any idea how to remove the buttons.

I will just try to blow some air and give up.

 

Spoiler

JruKjB1.jpg

Spoiler

6roQv27.jpg

 

Edited by pilgrim

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.