GBC General Discussion

[Ankoku]

Got a video of it in action?

[Maico]

you can find it in several of my videos where I follow the blue ball.

An example:

 

[Ankoku]

Kudos for bookmarking the correct time in the video where it appears!

[Great Ball Pit]

Here is a follow the Blue Ball and an additional 8 minutes of GBC footage from BrickCan 2019 that took place last weekend.

 

 

[Lasse D]

My standard wheel module has been updated. The new version is even more reliable, interesting to look at, uses fewer parts, does not require an anti-jamming mechanism, and is stackable just like the rainbow stepper module by @Maico.

Here is a video of it in action:

And building instructions can be found here: https://brickhub.org/i/426

 

 

 

[Ankoku]

When it comes to GBC balls, do you know what the difference is between the two variants LEGO has for each colour?

e.g. white has:

6261261 & 6018511

and orange has:

6261264 & 6023209

Since LEGO has them as difference things, I am curious as to whether there are any physical differences?

[XG BC]

i think the different numbers are the balls with and without the prints. my profile pic is the  one with prints but there is also one version without prints. you can see them in @Great Ball Pit's videos.

XG BC

[Ankoku]

As far as I know, LEGO doesn't sell printed soccer balls any more?

[Ankoku]

Worked it out. They seems to be a new pattern (etching) style of balls in both orange and white.

With the new style, the pattern is no longer uniform.

I am guessing it relates to bringing the balls up-to-date with current soccer ball designs.

[XG BC]

oh ok that is logical i guess

XG BC

[Ender3Guy]

I'm working on 3D printing GBC balls as a substitute for spending $1.50 CAD on each ball. I have the size right and the weight is currently sitting at 1.4 grams. How close to 1.52 grams do I need to get the balls so that they work with catapult-style modules?

[JBrost]

4 hours ago, Ender3Guy said:

I'm working on 3D printing GBC balls as a substitute for spending $1.50 CAD on each ball. I have the size right and the weight is currently sitting at 1.4 grams. How close to 1.52 grams do I need to get the balls so that they work with catapult-style modules?

Unfortunately, I don't think anybody is going to be able to give you a solid "will work" or "won't work" answer based just off of the weight.  There are way too many other variables that have to be considered.  They may work in certain catapult modules while they wouldn't in others.  I think it would mostly boil down to how big of a catch area where the balls are landing is build into the module & how accurate/precise the module is in launching the balls.  The bigger the catch area where the balls land, the better a module will likely be able to handle non-standard balls.  Also keep in mind that non-standard balls are going to behave differently in more than just catapult modules.  There are all kinds of modules where a lighter-than-normal ball could perform differently.  If you're looking to make some balls to test modules for inclusion in a larger GBC display at a fan event, I would still suggest you get a couple official balls to test with.  But if you're just looking for a cheaper alternative you can use when making your own modules for your own enjoyment, by all means, use the 3d printed ones & build the modules so they work with them.

[Maico]

The closer you get to the exact weight the better. But @JBrost is right in what he says...

 

[Ankoku]

Did this guy ever post this here?

 

[Great Ball Pit]

19 hours ago, Ankoku said:

Did this guy ever post this here?

The builders name is Spencer D from VicLUG.  You've posted the old version of Hippo's.  He displayed the updated model alongside myself and some other builders in the GBC layout at BrickCan 2018.  You can see the updated model in the "follow the ball" video I did here at 3m30s.

 

 

[Ankoku]

The old one seems smoother, although I suspect it is just the speed it is running at.

Great to see that it is still getting shown and improved. I really like it.

Thanks for the info!

 

[Lasse D]

I am back with another round of module testing. This new tipper module was in the 2018 LEGO World layout, but I have not had time to make it completely reliable. Here is a video of me testing it while in a circuit of 8:

The video will be used to find and fix the flaws.

[Ankoku]

Nice use of different colour 24 tooth gears.

[dmcc0]

Has anyone found an alternative to the chrome headlight part (71128) used in Akiyuki's cup to cup etc?  They are becoming more scarce (and expensive) on bricklink, especially if multiples are required and was hoping to maybe find a cheaper alternative.  Was thinking possibly part 39262 (crown form TLM2s Queen), anyone tried this?

[djm]

18 hours ago, dmcc0 said:

Has anyone found an alternative to the chrome headlight part (71128) used in Akiyuki's cup to cup etc?  They are becoming more scarce (and expensive) on bricklink, especially if multiples are required and was hoping to maybe find a cheaper alternative.  Was thinking possibly part 39262 (crown form TLM2s Queen), anyone tried this?

I haven't used them myself, but @BrianGT did post an image showing a comparison between the crown and the headlight. Take a look at this post:

Regards,

David

[dmcc0]

Thanks @djm , not sure how I missed that post as I'm a regular reader of that thread. Will maybe pick some up with my next order and give them a go.

[doug72]

A long time ago - when I was into railway modelling -I came across a means of raising & lowering a warehouse lift using a long crank arm which constantly rotates in one direction. This allowed slow down at top & bottom positions with a short dwell period.

I have now developed a Lego technic version for GBC use which does away with complicated gear racks and reversing mechanisms

Drive is by L motor with a worm gear rotating a Z56 turntable with crank arm attached. The end of the crank arm has pulley wheel.
Drive cord is set to raises the ball carrier to full height to discharge balls and when at lower position the cable goes slack to give enough dwell time for balls to load. Loading gate still to devise.

Now built two versions and I hope to arrange the 2nd one to be driven by a GBC Train unit /reverser if enough power.

Both versions use a two fold rope purchase which allows for a shorter  crank arm.
A long crank arm would flex too much under load.

Version 1:

For use in a GBC loop. Has loading and unloading control gates.

Version 2:
For possible use loading GBC Train ball carrier.

Only a loading gate is required, discharge is self unloading at upper level.
Tested using direct drive with an L motor.
To be tested to see if a train unit can power it, but it may not have enough power or speed.

A short video:

 

Edited May 24, 2019 by Doug72

[Ankoku]

Is it worth adding a counterweight? Looking good.

[dr_spock]

Nice.  Model railroading do it have its practical uses. 

 

[doug72]

5 minutes ago, Ankoku said:

Is it worth adding a counterweight? Looking good.

With an L motor there is plenty of power & able to lift 15 balls per cycle.
Time per cycle is approx 10secs.
Might need a counterweight when I test it with a train unit.

The cord tension has to be adjusted so the crank arm just raises the ball carrier to full height, if its too tight it would cause crank arm to deflect.

The support guides need for lift need to be rigid otherwise it can jam at the top.

9 minutes ago, dr_spock said:

Nice.  Model railroading do it have its practical uses. 

 

Agree - lots of usefull mechanism can be found on model train layouts.