KielDaMan

Post your general LEGO Star Wars questions here

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I've never had a single issue with any figure I've received whether they've been licensed, CMF or older figures. I've removed and replaced arms, hands, legs, hips etc and never had an issue with things. Nothing cracked, damaged or otherwise obviously inferior to any other figure. My 8 ur old has had loads of CMF figure for years and has played with them, chucked them in a huge box of lego and bashed them round... they still all look perfectly fine. I've never seen a issue and have no reason to feel concerned about where the plastic is from. When people refer to it as 'cheaper', what exactly do they mean by it? Is it still based on reports of older, inferior toys by other toy makers in China being cheap with 'lead based' paint?

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On 16/05/2018 at 5:21 PM, Jerac said:

We need to make some sort of modelling resource with only good quality sources ^^
As for criticism I like it and I *need* it to function properly so please never hesitate. At worst I am going to ignore it.

Thanks for clearing that issue with my last photo. I also have seen this "blue 12" one and was just as stumped. I knew it was not a fan model - these don't have all this bracing for live action - but it also did not match anything in the movie. Not to mention I associate slightly different colour with "blue".

http://www.theforce.net/swtc/index.html
This website has some good photos of original models from various exhibitions. They are, sadly, in deteriorating quality, especially seen on TIEs. 

http://swc.fs2downloads.com/reference/starship_modeler/Rebel/X-Wing/
This is to be used with caution; not all of these might be actual studio models! 

That would be useful. I might upload all of my reference (which I am fairly confident is accurate i.e it is photos of the real thing) to brickshelf when I am finished with my moc. As I said the whole affair is a mess and it takes a lot of time to sift through the history of it and become familiar with things. The Blue 12 was definitely a studio model on the first movie but to my knowledge did not appear in the final cut. And the blue thing is a little weird at first, yeah. I do have quite a few photos saved of the main X-wings and I also recently got the great star wars Chronicles japanese book which is a treasure trove of images of miniatures from the original trilogy, some of which were first published in it. Has almost all you could ask for short of ortho views of the studio models but not cheap.

The second link you posted has mostly images of the Red 2 mini from the first movie, and a different, considerably bigger "Red 3" model that I believe was made for Return of the Jedi. I'm not sure if it ended up in the movie but they seem to cart that one out for a lot of the exhibitions. There is also one photo of a fan model in there. The first link has photos of the same red 3 model that was made after the first production.

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2 hours ago, stormtroopercaptain said:

 I saw you throw this out there in another thread. I haven’t heard anything  like this yet and after asking around all I could find out was. That sometimes the collectibles/giveaways have had trouble with pigments making them more brittle. Some of the brown colors have had this problem. Supposedly the plastic is the same.

Where did you here this from because if true this is concerning?

 

I was told also that they are experimenting with a new bamboo based plastic. They are rolling it out in a few of the plant type elements this year and seeing how well it performs. 

I heard it form another page. General the difference is the colours being duller, clutch being looser, etc...

It isn't a huge deal really, but i was curious if this was unique to star wars. Also, the CMF line is known for it's duel moulding and arm prints, so maybe star wars will finally get the same treatment. Because of other themes have swapped to this plastic, given that they get the due moulding and whatnot, LSW can be on that path.

Edited by TheGeneralMoe
additional info

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Yea I wonder if it has to do with the pigment or it could be the plastic.

 

I work with steel all the time and even if Chinese steel is made to the same spec a lot of the time it is not the same. Same recipe doesn’t allways turn out the same.  We have seen whole lots of Chinese steel that chemically test out the same as US steel but is garbage compared to domestic samples.  The way it’s handled and processed makes a big difference and I’m sure some or all of that applies to plastic as well. 

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I like the discussion that has flowed forward from this! Really nice to see more websites with nice reference that I haven't seen yet. Would be weird if a big database like @atlas mentioned doesn't exist yet - there have been a lot of people producing studio-scale models, one would expect they would have done more research than us Lego fans that only are able to recreate the bigger details and where small details become very hard.

On 11-5-2018 at 3:51 PM, Jerac said:

Because I put first-level-canon sources at absolutely highest priority and he does not. Long story short, for me, if data gathered from movie contradicts data gathered from any other source, the movie source wins.

I don't get what you mean, there's no different level canon sources anymore since Disney took over. Something is either canon, or something is not canon (and then there is some stories that borrow certain elements from canon, but are not completely canon, like the freemaker adventures or From A Certain Point Of View). Like what has been set before, a lot of the original movie contradicts itself, and then there were a lot of other sources like reference books and official sources that were canon in legends continuity but contradicted eachother. Since the new phase of Star Wars, they want to get rid of all these contradictions, since they know the fans think it's important that certain data is the same in every story - all movies, reference books, games etc. - because they know fans want to recreate them.

Of course still some inconsistencies exist in the SW movies and other media, both story-wise and model wise. That's inevitable, because mistakes are human. But those mistakes get resolved in later media, so I'd say the most canon version of any vehicle would be the most recent incarnation (for a certain art style). I say certain art style, because some media try to make caricatured versions of certain vehicles, a good example is star wars rebels and the star wars comics. I think most people try to recreate the live-action versions of vehicles, so the most recent source for those would be Rogue One (for TIE/X-wing) - and it's accompanying media (visual dictionary, which also has dedicated scale lists). For the Battlefront games, Dice recieved the CGI models from Rogue One from lucasfilm, and they have said they want to recreate the SW universe with the game as faithful as possible. I am certain everything is scaled the same in Battlefront as in Rogue One. But I/we may investigate this.

And about the guy from Rebelscale: he did not base the size of a TIE on the Rebels version. He merely stated that the Rebels version's canopy lined up pretty well with what other (old and new) canon sources said about the TIE size. He based the TIE size on numerous different canon sources. I agree his list may not be the most accurate - but that's why it's an estimate. He did the best he could do taking all the canon content in consideration, instead of finding points why certain sources would not be entirely canon and thus having *nothing* left to base the scale on.

And the point about what minifig scale is, when the proportions of a minifig do not line up is a very good point indeed. But it does mark off some territory. Some vehicles will be too big for minifig scale, some will be too small. I think it's safe to say anything bigger then 50:1 is too big for minifig scale, and anything smaller then 40:1 is smaller then minifig scale. Then it's just up for the builder to find a good balance between these scales to make his model look good next to a minifig.

Btw, you had linked to that image of a FO trooper standing next to a FO TIE to determine the scale. I forgot that we have a quite good scaling image of TIE vs. human from a deleted scene from RO which was featured in the trailer: (starts at 1:44)

We of course know how long felicity jones is, and by taking the perspective in account we can determine the size of all elements of the TIE (which will most probalbly end up at 7.24 m)

I will go to the Star Wars identities expedition in the near future, would it be useful if I try to take overhead and side pictures of all models there? (it seems that so far most models have been shot at an angle)
I could also take with me a coulor palette of Lego bricks, so I can compare the colors of costumes and models to the bricks, so we can see which color would fit best.

Edited by TWP

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Hi I hope this is the correct place to ask this question

 

I have just purchased a 75053 The Ghost set  and now want to put a phantom with it so I know there are the 2 options of 75048 the phantom 1 and  75170 the phantom 2  but ive looked at some of the reviews of 75170 and the say that the ship its based on has been represented better by 8036 the separatist shuttle

 

my question is will 8036 dock with 75053 like 75048 & 75170 will ?

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15 hours ago, roadstermatt said:

Hi I hope this is the correct place to ask this question

 

I have just purchased a 75053 The Ghost set  and now want to put a phantom with it so I know there are the 2 options of 75048 the phantom 1 and  75170 the phantom 2  but ive looked at some of the reviews of 75170 and the say that the ship its based on has been represented better by 8036 the separatist shuttle

 

my question is will 8036 dock with 75053 like 75048 & 75170 will ?

no, of course 8036 will not dock with the ghost. It's way to big for it and entirely different built in structure, color scheme etc. 75170 is a fine set actually.

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So at a local convention today I found a smoking deal. 7754 and 8038 - two of my white whales - for $60 total. However, Home One is unfortunately (mostly) glued. Is there any way I can safely remove the glue? I've heard nail polish remover without acetone will do the trick but I'm not sure.

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5 hours ago, ShadowStrike said:

So at a local convention today I found a smoking deal. 7754 and 8038 - two of my white whales - for $60 total. However, Home One is unfortunately (mostly) glued. Is there any way I can safely remove the glue? I've heard nail polish remover without acetone will do the trick but I'm not sure.

I don’t think so. I bought a Hogwarts Castle really cheap a few years ago and tried to get it to break up but nothing helped. Ended up selling it on as a glued incomplete set.

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8 hours ago, ShadowStrike said:

So at a local convention today I found a smoking deal. 7754 and 8038 - two of my white whales - for $60 total. However, Home One is unfortunately (mostly) glued. Is there any way I can safely remove the glue? I've heard nail polish remover without acetone will do the trick but I'm not sure.

If the glue used was permamnent you are out of luck.

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10 hours ago, ShadowStrike said:

So at a local convention today I found a smoking deal. 7754 and 8038 - two of my white whales - for $60 total. However, Home One is unfortunately (mostly) glued. Is there any way I can safely remove the glue? I've heard nail polish remover without acetone will do the trick but I'm not sure.

As others have said it is unlikely you will be able to remove the glue, though keep asking and researching as it may still be possible. 

However if you've been hunting for those sets, is there any particular reason you wish to disassemble them?

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Well for one, everythng is glued. Even some sections that are supposed to move. And a few of the minifigures. Plus when I get a complete set, I usually like to build it for myself.

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Has anybody ever received a set with a broken bag inside? I just built the FO star destroyer, and one bag was broken open with loose pieces inside the box, but no minifigures or pieces are missing (I just finished building), and the hole didn't look man-made, so it can't be a thief.

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31 minutes ago, DarthHank said:

Has anybody ever received a set with a broken bag inside? I just built the FO star destroyer, and one bag was broken open with loose pieces inside the box, but no minifigures or pieces are missing (I just finished building), and the hole didn't look man-made, so it can't be a thief.

Can't say I ever had one no, that's rather unusual. 

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It does happen, but it's rare. Just a glitch in the manufacturing process

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On 26-5-2018 at 11:42 PM, DarthHank said:

Has anybody ever received a set with a broken bag inside? I just built the FO star destroyer, and one bag was broken open with loose pieces inside the box, but no minifigures or pieces are missing (I just finished building), and the hole didn't look man-made, so it can't be a thief.

Yes, I've had that a couple of times actually. Sometimes they're just open, I've also had that the little baggie was sealed INTO the bigger bag.

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On 27/05/2018 at 7:42 AM, DarthHank said:

Has anybody ever received a set with a broken bag inside? I just built the FO star destroyer, and one bag was broken open with loose pieces inside the box, but no minifigures or pieces are missing (I just finished building), and the hole didn't look man-made, so it can't be a thief.

Yup, happened to me with Assault on Hoth. Happens from time to time, my guess is either manufacturing error or something to do wth the pressure of the plane cabin during transport 

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Hello all,

When can we expect the summer wave? Is it in august or september? 

And are the Sentinel-class and X-Wing part of it?

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14 hours ago, Moexy said:

Hello all,

When can we expect the summer wave? Is it in august or september? 

And are the Sentinel-class and X-Wing part of it?

August, yes and yes

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19 hours ago, TWP said:

August, yes and yes

Thank you for the answer! 

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On 5/26/2018 at 4:42 PM, DarthHank said:

Has anybody ever received a set with a broken bag inside? I just built the FO star destroyer, and one bag was broken open with loose pieces inside the box, but no minifigures or pieces are missing (I just finished building), and the hole didn't look man-made, so it can't be a thief.

Had this happen in the unopened podracer set a few years ago. Sometimes the bags just break.

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On 26.5.2018 at 6:23 PM, ShadowStrike said:

Well for one, everythng is glued. Even some sections that are supposed to move. And a few of the minifigures. Plus when I get a complete set, I usually like to build it for myself.

Did they use glue for plastic models or random super glue? Plastic glue contains a solvent and basically melts the surface, the pieces get cold welded together. No chance to separate the pieces without damage/destruction. If it is a standard super glue you could try soaking it in hot water, but don't exceed 55° celsius. The bricks won't melt, but could warp. Then put the bricks into the freezer. Repeat if necessary. You could use cleaning alcohol or terpentine for soaking, but first test the used liquids with some bricks.

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1 hour ago, m4st3rt3ch said:

Did they use glue for plastic models or random super glue? Plastic glue contains a solvent and basically melts the surface, the pieces get cold welded together. No chance to separate the pieces without damage/destruction. If it is a standard super glue you could try soaking it in hot water, but don't exceed 55° celsius. The bricks won't melt, but could warp. Then put the bricks into the freezer. Repeat if necessary. You could use cleaning alcohol or terpentine for soaking, but first test the used liquids with some bricks.

Gonna try this for some of the minifigures first. Thanks.

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I bought a MISB TIE Crawler, and a few of the blue pieces were discolored or warped or brittle. Everything else was perfect, but some blue bricks were difficult to get to snap on, and the two blue turntable bases broke. Is this characteristic of whatever plastic TLG uses for older blue bricks?

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