Need help with importing wheelhubs in rear suspension.

[jesse66058]

Hello everybody,

One day my nephew asked if we could make together a car. I started the project last christmas and have actually not made so much progress at the car, but i learned in the meanwhile a lot! I started with zero experience and haven't played a while with lego. Nicjasno was a good person that was very helpfull. The first suspension i made, was very bad according to nicjasno. After watching his video's, i was really ashamed of myself =P. How could i let see such a bad designed suspension to nicjasno!

My nephew loves the Ford Mustang GT, and actually i love it to! The scale has in the meantime changed alot. Following nicjasno it was a good idea to build from the wheels. I started with the (http://www.bricklink....asp?P=44772c01) wheels. I followed the idea of sheepo's MacPherson idea. But after some testing i was not convinced enough. When you steer, one side of the car gets lift up because the length of the spring variates.

Also an unexpected thing happened. The Powerfunctions XL Motors peforms bad, really bad. (even coupled). After some research i saw you could make your own engine with the lego pneumatics. I started with the one-cylinder from nico71. When i saw it for the first time actually working. The excitement really killed me! I was so excited i wanted to go to the next level. To directly build the biggest, bad-megablocks megablock engines was for me not a good idea. So the next choice was the SYS I3 from nicjasno with all the modifications. After the succesful build. I thought i was ready for the LpePower v8! =O. I have both models kept in my closet and have traded 3 yellow cylinders for 11 transperant blue cylinders. But i'm stil waiting for them.

So the next wheelchoice was (http://www.bricklink....asp?P=44772c04), but they were to small to fit the big v8 engine block =P. So we went on to the biggest wheels lego has made: http://www.bricklink....asp?P=44772c03.

In the meanwhile i had builded many idea's for the car, but parts broke every time. So we went to the 'heavy duty' category. Nicjasno had tipped me about his HDA. So i had made my own copy of it, but it was really to big! It was such a beautifull designed gearbox.

So now, where my question comes from: I started building a rear suspension nicjasno made for his own Ford Mustang GT, but i don't use non-lego wheels with all the extra coming items such as the turntable and the custom adapters. So i had to do it with nicjasno modified wheelhubs (i follow his buildshow). But after many designs that are to big or to wobbly, i ask some advice from the experienced builders on this forum.

The thingy that proposes nicjasnos modified wheelhubs and the headpart of the rear suspension (live axle) The wheelhub needs to fit the arms that are coming out, but has any a good idea how?

Another photo

Nicjasno's models without the cylinders. (I also want to say i appreciate the help of youtuber OOOONeoGamerOOOO with the modifications. I am still learning to do it my own.)

Sorry for the bad photo's (original huh?) It is night and i have only a mobile i can acces at the moment.

I'm new to this forum so if i do something wrong, i will hear it.

Any idea is welcome! Greetings from Jesse, The Netherlands

[Technyk32231]

Welcome to Eurobricks! Are the arms that you are talking about the long technic bricks? If so, I would first suggest switching to studless arms, as they are easier to build strong hubs around, especially in your situation, since you have an odd spacing , and that is harder to build in the usually even spaced studfull.(sorry for the run on sentence)

[jesse66058]

Welcome to Eurobricks! Are the arms that you are talking about the long technic bricks? If so, I would first suggest switching to studless arms, as they are easier to build strong hubs around, especially in your situation, since you have an odd spacing , and that is harder to build in the usually even spaced studfull.(sorry for the run on sentence)

Thank you for the nice welcome!

The arms where i'm talking about are indeed the long technic bricks. Switching to studless arms is probably getting harder to make rigid. The liftarms don't fit easy in the studded box without a big changement. The only way how it was possible to archive a 3 stud wide with the bricks was using a kind of tile with a half stud offset and the technic bricks have a hollow top. This way you could snap them tight in the other bricks with a half stuff offset.

Switching to a 4 stud wide is also probably giving more challenges than this setup. The arms will be a half stud offset from the black liftarms that keep them together so it will be harder to make a link to remain extra rigidy or for any other use.

[nicjasno]

A 4 stud setup gives actually less challenges. Everything is sturdier and you don't have to compromise everything in the differential to make the driving axles 3 studs high. Here's a few suggestions:

https://www.dropbox....4yum/Q0B1TPKqQv

Also, please use pulley wheels for the cv joints in the driveshafts. Everything else will break.

Edited August 22, 2013 by nicjasno

[Technyk32231]

I just had another idea. You could instead of using just two arms on each side, use 4 of the technic bricks with two layers of plates in between, to make them 3 studs apart. Keep them also 3 studs apart vertically. Then, mount the new 42000 rear hubs to this using long pins, and instead of a cv joint, just use an axle. I don't know if the geometry of the hub allows this, as I don't have them, but it could be worth a try.

[jesse66058]

A 4 stud setup gives actually less challenges. Everything is sturdier and you don't have to compromise everything in the differential to make the driving axles 3 studs high. Here's a few suggestions:

https://www.dropbox....4yum/Q0B1TPKqQv

Also, please use pulley wheels for the cv joints in the driveshafts. Everything else will break.

Hello Nicjasno! Never thought i would see you here. I´m glad you will help me =D

The simplicity in te design is very nice, i also used the triangles, but in a way different kind. To go to a 4 stud wideness solves the problem with the wheelhubs, but the arms are on both sides 1 bush to short to be on scale. It is possible to displace the arms with 1 stud with help of the liftplates but that is not the strongest setup. And building the spring on top could still be possible, but i don´t have any room underneath the arms to mount the bars from the suspension. Did you had in your car a Watt´s linkage or a panhard rod for extra rigidy?

The shiftment in the axle should be the least problem.

The arms that are on scale are the 6 stud long bricks with 5 holes, not very much to place anyting on it.

I just had another idea. You could instead of using just two arms on each side, use 4 of the technic bricks with two layers of plates in between, to make them 3 studs apart. Keep them also 3 studs apart vertically. Then, mount the new 42000 rear hubs to this using long pins, and instead of a cv joint, just use an axle. I don't know if the geometry of the hub allows this, as I don't have them, but it could be worth a try.

Thank you for your idea! That is indeed a very smart idea, but the axle that comes out the differential are not centered in this design to fit the wheelhubs. I'm not going to use the 42000 hubs since they have to much slack to perform at. Nicjasno has made a very good alternative for it on his youtube channel! Also, the big turntable doesn't is to wide on 1 side to make 4 bricks coming out.

[Technyk32231]

I thought there was less slack if you put an axle through it, just like the portal hubs... Speaking of portal hubs, sideways portal hubs work well, and if the top of the hub is pointing forward, it also provides a great place to put suspension links.