Recommended Posts

I've been looking at different cars lately and one I really like is the Mitsubishi Evo X. An idea of mine was to create suspension models as small MOCs, similar to how lego made engines as sets a long time ago. But with limited photos it's pretty confusing, but here are some:

19697d1262250709-mitsubishi-evo-x-032.jpg

^The way I see it, there is one wishbone on top, a pair of separate links at the bottom, and a last link visible in the next photo. Also there is a swaybar, shock, and driveshaft.

19698d1262250833-mitsubishi-evo-x-035.jpg

^the last link is easily seen here (in the back), and the front is a MacPherson Strut setup.

19700d1262250833-mitsubishi-evo-x-040.jpg

19695d1262250709-mitsubishi-evo-x-029.jpg

What I wanted to ask is for some feedback on what parts (technic or bionicle) that I could use the replicate this. When I get some decent progress in, I will post photos here. Thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You should take a closer look at LPE's ideas to realize realistic suspensions for cars. This chassis has a combination of multilink (double lower links) and a-arm (upper part) in the front that I haven't seen before. But it should be quite easy to make it if you can scale it freely. The car might get big how ever, if you want to incorporate every detail.

Link to LPE: http://www.lpepower.com/

I would especially recommend seeing "The LPEpower show" episode 1 - 10.

-ED-

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks! I've watched all of his videos in the past and know lots about suspension types, just was interested in other member's ideas :classic: Ti-Max (Welcome to EB!) , that's pretty neat how you managed all that in such a small scale! I also got around to making my first prototype yesterday, here it is:

dscn1993.jpg

It includes all the links I mentioned and is pretty robust, and the hub, especially when using the 8448's wheels, is as close to the center of the wheel as can be :wink:

Here's the rest:

dscn1994.jpg

dscn1995.jpg

dscn1996.jpg

dscn1997.jpg

dscn1998.jpg

dscn2000.jpg

dscn2001.jpg

dscn2002.jpg

dscn2003.jpg

Edited by z3_2drive

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thats looking really good man, very interesting! I too like the lack of CV joints.

You mentioned lack of pics, so here are a few, may help LOL. I'm not sure exactly what type it is, maybe you someone can tell me. :laugh:

These are looking towards the front of the car.

8979552540_fc7ec8089e_c.jpg

8979562052_28fc4b3a55_c.jpg

This is looking over the wheel.

8978375795_f33f45a0a7_c.jpg

Edited by Doc_Brown

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think that's a standard Macpherson strut set up, what car is it?

R32?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Dang good guess!

Do the large ball joints limit smooth motion?

I put a bit of white lithium grease and it helps a bit. In small models they do, since originally they were made for bionicle figures to have movable but not wobbly limbs. But in a large scale car like this with stiff suspension there's no problem :classic: Meanwhile I've been doing a little scale building to some blueprints and here's what I got so far:

dscn2005.jpg

^It may seem a bit long but trust me the dimensions are all to scale :wink: length, wheelbase, wheel size, wheel width etc.

dscn2006.jpg

^I need to make a BL order before building the right rear suspension and front steering.

dscn2007.jpg

^The only dimension that is off is the front axle width, by only one centimeter. I'll leave it as is because I don't feel like completely changing the suspension all over again.

dscn2009.jpg

^I couldn't think of a better MacPherson setup other than nicjasno's. I modified his to have a longer width and no CV joints. The upper brace was too high so after taking these photos I simply flipped it upside down, leaving two or so studs of space for the hood if I go through with this build.

dscn2010.jpg

^I lengthened the width of the rear axle by two studs, meaning one stud on each side. I need to get more of the light bley Axle and Pin Connector Perpendicular Double 4L

dscn2011.jpg

^The frame is as rigid as possible in the center and front but the rear may be further reinforced in the future.

dscn2012.jpg

dscn2013.jpg

dscn2014.jpg

Edited by z3_2drive

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think that's a standard Macpherson strut set up, what car is it?

No that's double wishbone, and yeah out of a r32. I used to own one, the system has no massive camber change in it's travel, unlike mac strut. It's a far better system than mac strut.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No that's double wishbone, and yeah out of a r32. I used to own one, the system has no massive camber change in it's travel, unlike mac strut. It's a far better system than mac strut.

Sweet! That sounds good. :laugh:

Lithium grease. cool. Will you be making a video anytime, I'm really interested to see it bounce! :grin:

BTW your chassis looks really solid, good job!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sweet! That sounds good. :laugh:,

Lithium grease. cool. Will you be making a video anytime, I'm really interested to see it bounce! :grin:

BTW your chassis looks really solid, good job!

Maybe. Right now, after many tests and small changes I've come to a conclusion that the Macpherson setup offers too much wiggle room for steering, but, I have many cars in mind with better suspension. Main two ideas at this point:

1) go with a completely new car, either skyline r34/r32(AWD but double wishbone) Honda s2000(RWD and double wishbone-may be simplest and strongest, and least friction) which means new frame and new suspension ideas

2)Make the evo like the team Orange (Drift racing team) version with a RWD conversion so I can implement a different front suspension with the current dimensions.

Either idea is good but making an entirely new frame may offer a chance to use better/stronger bracing from the very beginning :wink: Wish me luck!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That's cool, these experiments sometimes don't go completely to plan! haha Happens to me all the time, but sometimes you just get lucky.

Good luck.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That chassis is looking nice, are you building a body for it too?

No that's double wishbone, and yeah out of a r32. I used to own one, the system has no massive camber change in it's travel, unlike mac strut. It's a far better system than mac strut.

It is indeed, I missed the top wishbone but I see it now. I still don't know what car it is, Skyline or Golf?

Is it possible to build a setup like this without the Lego wishbones? None of the sets I have come with them as most use fixed or live axles and panhard rods.

Edited by Tubby

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Of all the things... why did you put yellow spacers on the front axle? You want the pivot to be as close to the center of the wheel as possible. And especially with the 8448 rims, this can be achieved wonderfully.

Also... you're not making your life easy, and you are overcomplicating very simple things.

The rear axle should have a fixed wishbone on top, then 2 6l links with balljoints on each side and then a liftarm to provide longitudinal guidance, preferably as close to the wheel as possible and paralel to the wheel, not at an angle.

It's very similar to how ford made the focus suspension:

http://www.edmunds.com/car-reviews/track-tests/2013-ford-focus-st-suspension-walkaround.html

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Spacers were temporary while I tried to widen the axle itself. The rear does have a fixed wishbone(that part does not move side to side at all with an axle through it. I get what you mean with the liftarm and might use that. As for 6l links this might not work since the rear axle was widened, but I don't have this build with me so i can't test it out for two days.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The width of the axle has no bearing on which links you use. You just widen the axle frame then. Or you use 9l links.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The width of the axle has no bearing on which links you use. You just widen the axle frame then. Or you use 9l links.

True, true. I will definitely make improvements, but the front suspension just has too much wobble in the steering, so I may go for a different setup or different car.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Your steering arms are not paralel to the wishbones and they are at an angle to the back. They need to be also paralel to the driving axle.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.