Metal Gears

[The Ghost Racer]

I have a small question to ask yourself: do you know sites that sell lego technic metal gears? I've had enough need since my Tatra truck has already broken two in half .. the problem is that I do not notice when they break because it happens suddenly. I realize after several minutes that lacks a gear since my truck is powerful enough to continue to advance with little difficulty.

I hope that has not already been made ​​any discussion of this topic.

Edited July 20, 2013 by The Ghost Racer

[jorgeopesi]

There are a lot of sites that sell parts for RC cars, I am sorry for my purist reply...

[piterx]

i'd say that if the gears break, probably there must be something wrong with the way you built it .P

too much torque, too much friction, too much something lol

[Daniel-Technic]

Can you have two gears in pair if there is room in it?

[skppo]

The only gear I think is too weak when made from plastic is the 12 tooth bevel gear. There is no way to brace it more when its inside a diff.

I guessl UV joints is another part that cant really be made more sturdy by building around it. After enough torque they break and that's it.

Lego could make an "advanced, use at your own risk" parts set with some aluminium parts for AFOLs who like to push Lego to it's limits.

I'm not sure but how well do metal parts "stick" together? Plastic+metal I can see working but metal+metal might just slip away.

Edited July 20, 2013 by skppo

[Junpei]

^Skppo^ totally got that right. Brick Machine Shop and Inanimate Reason both sell metal parts, but they cannot have metal pins, so they have to have screws, because aluminium has much less elasticity than plastic. I would say that if you want metal gears, you should just go with full-metal RC kits. I think you should just use 12t DB to 12t DB and give up a tiny bit of torque and get a higher speed. The 12t gears are your problem, right?

[Ape Fight]

I wish Lego did these too, but then maybe that wouldn't be Lego?

I smashed several gears in development of an RC truck, my solution was to give it more power but less torque, and to 'double' all the gears by pushing 4 pins through them to take the stress off. The only weak point now is the diff, as I can't 'double' it, but it's doing OK so far

[timslegos]

If you replace plastic gears with metal, the axles themselves would be the next weakness. Then it would be the connectors, and the the motors and then....

I think sometimes you have to accept that Lego can be pushed only so far, and you must work around those weaknesses.

I smashed several gears in development of an RC truck, my solution was to give it more power but less torque, and to 'double' all the gears by pushing 4 pins through them to take the stress off. The only weak point now is the diff, as I can't 'double' it, but it's doing OK so far

That is an interesting way of working around weak gears, I will have to give it a try.

tim

[Saberwing40k]

What gears are you breaking? The only gears I've ever broken are 1 8t gear, and one 12t gear. Anything else breaking is kind of ridiculous.

[Junpei]

I've broken a old style 24t gear, but anyone in the right mind knows not to use those for any kind of motorized vehicle.

[Saberwing40k]

I've broken a old style 24t gear, but anyone in the right mind knows not to use those for any kind of motorized vehicle.

Oh yeah, those too. I've never broken one only because of the fact that I don't use 'em.

[The Ghost Racer]

Yes, my problem is the 12t .. I got the idea of ​​trying metal gears because I'm sorry to break lego pieces .. the only thing that I have not considered is the final price changing all the 20 gears .. another solution would be to strengthen the 12t .. mhh, but how do I do? Besides the difficulty of implementation there is the problem of the space that would occupy .. nah, bad idea.

The only possible solution is that of metal gears, because the 12t are needed in my Tatras, and also can not reduce the torque in a trial truck, it is essential.

If you replace plastic gears with metal, the axles themselves would be the next weakness. Then it would be the connectors, and the the motors and then....

I think sometimes you have to accept that Lego can be pushed only so far, and you must work around those weaknesses.

I had simply thought lego gears made ​​of metal, so that you can perfectly use with lego pieces and axes. Does not make sense to enter into a lego rc axes, might as well go directly to rc but I'm too fond of lego to do Edited July 21, 2013 by The Ghost Racer

[mahjqa]

I'm with timslegos. Sometimes brute strength isn't the solution to your problem, but better engineering.

[The Ghost Racer]

I'm with timslegos. Sometimes brute strength isn't the solution to your problem, but better engineering.

In this I can not help but give you reason. The Tatra is anything to improve, however, it is limited by the resistance of the gears

[jorgeopesi]

My first response was a little abrupt... . I would say that Lego may very well represent a Trial Truck but can never really be, so don´t try to give exorbitant benefits. You can built the best Lego Trial Truck and it will break the same, if you put very difficult tests.

[Junpei]

If you are ok with modifying pieces, you should take a 12 tooth DB gear and just cut it in half. That's about 3 times as strong.

[The Ghost Racer]

My first response was a little abrupt... . I would say that Lego may very well represent a Trial Truck but can never really be, so don´t try to give exorbitant benefits. You can built the best Lego Trial Truck and it will break the same, if you put very difficult tests.

This is true, but it is impossible that with only a xl motor (I use one for axis drive train) I break the gears! . I have to improve the transmission since the axles and suspensions are still a "beta" ..

If you are ok with modifying pieces, you should take a 12 tooth DB gear and just cut it in half. That's about 3 times as strong.

Nah, it's too difficult without the professional equipment .. I've already tried it once: vice and hacksaw, and it cames very badly .. you can even cut it straight, ok, but cutting it with a saw the gear teeth get ruined a lot .. Edited July 21, 2013 by The Ghost Racer

[Saberwing40k]

My response is for you to throw out the differentials. Most trail trucks don't need them anyway. Also, I still fail to understand how you're breaking gears, given that I have a truck of my own with many 12t gears in the drivetrain, and not one of them has broken. But, my truck has portal axles. Does yours? If it doesn't, that may be the source of your problem.

[andythenorth]

As Saberwing said - portal axles - reduce the torque through the diff.

Or design the truck so it's easy to drop out the diffs and replace the gears.

[BondemandClausen]

Hi Ghost Racer.

I can see that you use the normal remote control unit http://www.bricklink....asp?P=58122c01, which starts and stops very abruptly. My experience is that if you use the speed remote control http://www.bricklink...tem.asp?P=64227, you can start and stop the vehicle more smoothly, and prevent gears to break. That is how i did it with my Sugarbeet harvester http://www.eurobrick...showtopic=81575 that weighs 8,4 kg, but still is able to move with a nice speed.

[The Ghost Racer]

My response is for you to throw out the differentials. Most trail trucks don't need them anyway. Also, I still fail to understand how you're breaking gears, given that I have a truck of my own with many 12t gears in the drivetrain, and not one of them has broken. But, my truck has portal axles. Does yours? If it doesn't, that may be the source of your problem.

It has portal axles from Unimog U400 8110, I bought them for it.

As Saberwing said - portal axles - reduce the torque through the diff.

Or design the truck so it's easy to drop out the diffs and replace the gears.

My truck is inspired by the design of the Tatra T813, the king of truck trial (until the arrival of the later models), the differential scatter too much torque, the problem is to reinforce axles and suspensions. the rest of the chassis is perfect (er, I tested it by dropping from a climb to 45 ° 2m high, result: Only a few pieces of reinforcement hook or slightly bent, trucks fully functional).

One thing that I have not considered is, well, the pilot here xD I expecting too much from my trial truck, I want performance comparable to tatra real, and my tests are perhaps too difficult even for a real trial truck.

I have now found the cause of the breakup of my 12t: I demand that my trial truck, 4x4, exceed trenches as wide, if not most, of its wheels, although this is hardly possible even with a 6x6; often exceeds my tatra evidence, but sometimes not, and this can lead to damage on without me noticing, here! thanks for everything, I finally figured out my mistakes and the solution to them (not the application of the solution )

Hi Ghost Racer.

I can see that you use the normal remote control unit http://www.bricklink....asp?P=58122c01, which starts and stops very abruptly. My experience is that if you use the speed remote control http://www.bricklink...tem.asp?P=64227, you can start and stop the vehicle more smoothly, and prevent gears to break. That is how i did it with my Sugarbeet harvester http://www.eurobrick...showtopic=81575 that weighs 8,4 kg, but still is able to move with a nice speed.

The remote does not really seem to ... behold, while I am writing the other problem, the remote control centers and how .. I do not care braking, but rather a starting sized to deliver the best torque from wheels to ground.

Edited July 21, 2013 by The Ghost Racer

[legomuppet9]

Please, just reduce the torque... Oh and strengthen the drivetrains. Just because you dropped it and the chassis didn't break, doesn't mean the bracing of the gears is necessarily good. Also, differential s are a big no no in truck trial, they just waste space and reduce performance...

[The Ghost Racer]

Please, just reduce the torque... Oh and strengthen the drivetrains. Just because you dropped it and the chassis didn't break, doesn't mean the bracing of the gears is necessarily good. Also, differential s are a big no no in truck trial, they just waste space and reduce performance...

I can not reduce the torque, without it would not be able to overcome insurmountable obstacles. The only thing to do is adjust suspension and drive shafts following the original models

[legomuppet9]

I can not reduce the torque, without it would not be able to overcome insurmountable obstacles. The only thing to do is adjust suspension and drive shafts following the original models

There are limits to Lego, fyi, the way you're going you're just going to carry on damaging parts forcing Lego to do things it is not capable of doing...

[The Ghost Racer]

There are limits to Lego, fyi, the way you're going you're just going to carry on damaging parts forcing Lego to do things it is not capable of doing...

I just finished building the new suspension, now place the photos. the next step is to improve the axles, and ultimately strengthen the chassis and remove the unnecessary parts.

http://gtathecompletesaga.altervista.org/blog/lego-tatra-t813-rc-4x4-trial-truck-v5/

There is a limit to what you can get with lego, well, I do not say I wanna pass but I want to get close to it (I am a bit 'too ambitious maybe, ahahah) xD Jokes aside, I'm sure I can still improve a lot my Tatra.

Edited July 22, 2013 by The Ghost Racer