[MOC LDD] A-Wing (with LDD file)

[Brickdoctor]

I used photos of the actual studio model for reference (radical, I know!). I think it was this page

That's what most of us do when building OT vehicles, actually. Good choice; Toromodel has some of the best shots of the studio models in their flickr stream.

Huh, I just realized that the smoother solution for the fins is in fact studs-traditionally-facing-up because the top fins are built with bricks pointing up. The plate and tile version would actually be the SNOT version. Oops. Ah, well, I'm sure you all knew what I meant.

[TheBear]

Do you happen to have a link to pictures of the underside of Jerac's model?

There were a few WIP shots on Brickshelf but I can't find them now, maybe he took them down.

[ScottishDave]

That's what most of us do when building OT vehicles, actually. Good choice; Toromodel has some of the best shots of the studio models in their flickr stream.

I'm sorry if my remark came over as sarcastic - not what I intended at all! I honestly do appreciate the efforts which people on this board put in to make their models accurate. On my shelf I have a Pellaeon SSD, a Psiaki X-Wing, a Petersen Y-Wing, the under-discussion Krispy A-Wing and a Larry Lars Snowspeeder. I'm also midway through building a Krispy/RenegadeClone B-Wing.

Whilst I have modded all of them somewhat, that is just my borderline OCD at work. I'm happy with the overall accuracy of the original models, and grateful for the work of all the people involved.

Thank you for the heads-up on the Toro pictures. I had no idea they had a flickr stream, but I've found it now.

I think I found the A-Wing pictures via the Studio Scale section on the RPF forum, which turns out to be a great place to find detailed close-ups of obsessively accurate reproductions of the original studio models.

Huh, I just realized that the smoother solution for the fins is in fact studs-traditionally-facing-up because the top fins are built with bricks pointing up. The plate and tile version would actually be the SNOT version. Oops. Ah, well, I'm sure you all knew what I meant.

I did! I have enjoyed the discussion of different fin designs, and the alternatives which people have found. I'm glad we have so many options to try. As you can see from my pictures, I favour the studs-traditionally-facing-up solution. Generally I prefer it when a "smooth" model is smooth as possible (as opposed to, say, the Millennium Falcon, which looks better in studs). Mixing studs and smooth doesn't look nearly as nice, IMHO.

[krispy]

Thank you Brickdoctor: that sounds like my cue.

Thank you, Krispy, Scott and Jerac for a wonderful model.

I altered Krispy's 1.4 A-Wing design to include a smooth SNOT bottom and a landing leg at the front:

There are a lot more photos in my set on flickr. It should be enough to let someone recreate my modifications. If you need more photos taken from any angle, please let me know.

I've been a little slow on this forum recently, but I just have to say: great mod! Looks like I'm gonna need to adjust my shelved one.

[All in the Reflexes]

Hey guys, long time lurker on the site and have built some amazing MOCs thanks to the people here. Many thanks to Krispy/Jerac etc for this amazing model, i did always wonder about the way the engines/wings worked though so i had a play around just to see what would come of it. Here's an idea i had, not sure how sturdy it would be but i'm quite pleased with it. Also little tweaks to the nose and canopy rear :)

[Ber Teh Unicern]

Awesome! Sorry for the late comment, but you don't just leave behind an A-Wing that's worthy to fight alongside the Psiaki X-Wing! It's a real beauty!

[blbills]

This is a fantastic model!

Quick question, having uploaded the LDD into Bricklink I'm noticing that there are a lot of red bricks along with the predominantly dark red bricks. Was this intentional? Or should I be converting them all over the dark red?

Thank!

[khatmorg]

Bright red bricks are bricks that can be any color. It usually means they aren't visible in the finished model so it doesn't matter what color it is (bright red is the default color setting in LDD).

[blbills]

Bright red bricks are bricks that can be any color. It usually means they aren't visible in the finished model so it doesn't matter what color it is (bright red is the default color setting in LDD).

Gotcha, thanks!

[Jacob Schermann]

Can you take a picture of the top of the ship and the cockpit of the ship because I want to make sure that I made my design close enough to yours. If you could post those pictures that would be awesome. 

[blbills]

Here are some pictures of my build.  Really turned out quite well. See my Flickr A-Wing Album for more.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/145097789@N03/albums/72157674924783193

IMG_4154 by Brian Bills, on Flickr

IMG_4155 by Brian Bills, on Flickr

IMG_4152 by Brian Bills, on Flickr

IMG_4146 by Brian Bills, on Flickr

Edited January 3, 2017 by blbills

[wmxproductions]

The LDD file cant be found over on dropbox anymore, can you reupload it Krispy?

[hattedsandwich]

On 7/11/2017 at 6:45 AM, wmxproductions said:

The LDD file cant be found over on dropbox anymore, can you reupload it Krispy?

Seconded, would love to build this ship!

[ScottishDave]

Krispy's 1.4 version, from my own dropbox:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/jvfl1q32vu6mwmj/Jerac A-wing - 1.4.lxf?dl=0

 

[bricksmarlin]

Thanks very much @ScottishDave

[hattedsandwich]

Thank you @ScottishDave!

Edited July 17, 2017 by hattedsandwich
Fudged name callout

[Myth]

Thanks for reupping the LDD!! 

[Sillybats75]

On 7/17/2017 at 2:09 PM, hattedsandwich said:

@ScottishDave!

Thank you sir for helping us out!

[Jerac]

If I may recommend something, swap out front red 1x2 tiles to 2x2. It will give it both proper total length and properly narrow front edge.

[krispy]

On 1/7/2018 at 8:11 PM, Jerac said:

If I may recommend something, swap out front red 1x2 tiles to 2x2. It will give it both proper total length and properly narrow front edge.

Great idea!

Also, I've restored the dropbox link.

[Jollygrnreefer]

On 7/21/2013 at 1:36 PM, TheBear said:

Hi Krispy, thanks very much for making this available. One of the nice things about the A-Wing is the way it looks oval when viewed from the front. Although it is not possible to get it completely right with the available parts in lego, Jerac's version (and subsequently this one) at least have that oval look while the official Lego set doesn't even try to do it. For this reason alone it is far more accurate than the official set.

I would be interested to know why you have deviated from Jerac in several places (for example the fins, engines, the gap in the front of the ship and the back part of the cockpit) because to my eye it looks like Jerac's version in all those places is the more accurate. You've ended up using a lot of different parts to the official set anyway so it wouldn't cost a whole lot more to buy the extra parts needed. I hope you don't think me pedantic, but the whole point of making something other than the official set is to improve the accuracy so it seems to me you might as well make it as accurate as possible.

Hey guys, just want to thank Jerac and Krispy for this awesome model! Totally agree with the arguement TheBear is making here. Currently working on a complete overhaul of this model, to more reflect Jerac's original design.

1 Correct the length and width to match studio model

2 Accurate cockpit design

3 Diagnol striping from dark red to white

4 Rengineer rear engine (Jerac had the right shape, this is what screams update)

5 Reshape the main engines, seem too long

Have found a solution for the fins, will wait to share when complete. right now 80% complete, need to order more dark red tiles to complete the bottom with the vent :(

Pics coming soon...

 

[atlas]

42 minutes ago, Jollygrnreefer said:

Hey guys, just want to thank Jerac and Krispy for this awesome model! Totally agree with the arguement TheBear is making here. Currently working on a complete overhaul of this model, to more reflect Jerac's original design.

1 Correct the length and width to match studio model

2 Accurate cockpit design

3 Diagnol striping from dark red to white

4 Rengineer rear engine (Jerac had the right shape, this is what screams update)

5 Reshape the main engines, seem too long

Have found a solution for the fins, will wait to share when complete. right now 80% complete, need to order more dark red tiles to complete the bottom with the vent :(

Pics coming soon...

 

Interested to see what you come up with as it is very similar to what I did about two 1/2 years ago. I wasn't happy with 75003, and was still in a stage where I would find MOCs of others and reproduce those myself, and then eventually modify them. I found Jerac's model and krispy's version and started, I believe with krispy's first, and then started again, that time with the goal of matching the exterior details of Jerac's as closely as possible (at the time there were very few places that I could identify possible improvments), but because there is very limited imagery of his model I had to built it from scratch, making all the surface areas match up with new original internals. I have a couple of albums on my flickr page and posts here of the process.

About a year after that I made some other small changes and swapped blue for red but the A-wing I have on the shelf is still in large part Jerac's on the outside. It is out of scale with the rest of my models however, and I can now see some more flaws in it that I would like to improve by building an entirely new model to 1:32. Jerac's was incredible for its time and is still amazing but it's almost 10 years old and now there is room to build on it, even if it's only in small ways.

[Jollygrnreefer]

Funny that you replied Atlas, I am actually using your pics from your Flickr as primary reference to restore Jerac's design, with Krispy's building techniques. Once completed, this model will have a lil of everybodies design incorporated. Most proud of the cockpit, was able to replicate the studio model. All I have left is the rear engine. Currently playing around with it, trying to find a solution to get away from the rubber bands, really a funky design for legos. Especially dont want to forfeit accuracy. Still 100% no illegal connections or modified parts.

Edited June 18, 2018 by Jollygrnreefer
accuracy

[Wurger49]

On 4/23/2018 at 2:45 AM, krispy said:

Great idea!

Also, I've restored the dropbox link.

Hi Krispy, when i try to upload the LXF file into bricklink, It comes up with one of the items is invalid, so I can't create a wanted list to buy the parts. Is there an work around for that?

I just need to parts lists to buy from bricklink. 

[LiLmeFromDaFuture]

51 minutes ago, Wurger49 said:

Hi Krispy, when i try to upload the LXF file into bricklink, It comes up with one of the items is invalid, so I can't create a wanted list to buy the parts. Is there an work around for that?

I just need to parts lists to buy from bricklink. 

Not all LDD part numbers correspond with Bricklink's database, so you could import the file into STUDIO (it's better at handling the disparities), sign-in, highlight the "Model" drop-menu, select model info, and you will find the option to create a wanted list from the parts.