What about spraying parts?

[Nazgarot]

Anyhow, on topic: Would plastic model spray paint work? Like the ones Tamiya produces?

I remember they made for a real nice finish on my large scale plastic model airplanes, back when I was in to that... Probably not very scratch resistant, but for a nice finish of display models, it would probably work! Also, the size is convenient for small projects like Lego models

I think citadel paint for miniatures works better as they are supposed to be used and will get smacked together quite a bit. I find it very scratch resistant, specially it there is a clear coat on top. But I have never tried to spray paint with it, and don't know if it will work.

I am all for painting things like rims, tracks and similar, but I enjoy the challenge of building within the quite limited Lego range and will probably not paint any other parts as there is a chance of corrupting connection points, and it reduces the reusability (is that a word?) of the part.

-ED-

Edited May 21, 2013 by Nazgarot

[MrNumbskull13]

I want to spray 56's rims with white color.

Topic is actual for me:)

Which paint did you used?

I actually painted the 56 rims too (I think). I used a company called Rust-Oleum's "direct to plastic paint"

[monai]

Painting is possible but take care of the change in width due to the coating, this could cause a bad sticking, it is better to paint the finished model as usual in modelling world. Obviously this means that only the external surface will be painted.

First clean carefully the model, then is better to use a sandpaper (1000) to make a rough surface, a primer is mandatory, finally you spray (or paint if the pieces are small). Give two hands or more and the final product will be more realistic than with normal LEGO blocks.

regards

Sergio Monai

[Rick]

Moved to "General" as this could be interesting to a broader audience than just the Technic forum.

[Faefrost]

For painting Lego parts the real secrets are going to be getting the paint as thin on the parts as possible to minimize the paint getting in the way of the connection points. Thinner coats will also reduce the chances of chipping and flaking.

If you have an airbrush, this will be the best tool for this. Otherwise there are a few tricks to help get reasonable results out of rattle cans.

To begin make sure all parts are clean and dry. Decide if you want to apply color to each individual part or to do it in larger sub assemblies.

Start with a plastic bonding paint. Krypton Fusion or its Rustoleum equivalent. You are not limited by the colors of this paint as this will mainly be the base coat that other paint can stick to. This stuff is a powerful lacquer paint. Do not use indoors. Use a mask. This paint will etch the plastic so it can grip. Regular paint will not stick to ABS and will flake off.

- if you have an airbrush, decant the paint and spray it on through the airbrush. Go for this layers until the part is covered.

- if you don't have an airbrush put the rattle can in a warm water bath for a half hour. Once fully heated shake extremely well then apply

Let the paint fully cure. Not just dry to the touch, but completely bake on and bond. (A day or two). Once cured you can apply your preferred modeling paints, should you choose. Just don't mix enamels and acrylics. Same process, thin coats sprayed on.

If you wish to do metal effects there are some wonderful paints and products that will do that. The three main ones are Alclad paints, Testors Metalizer Paints and a product called bare metal foil. Of these only use Alclad or BMF for Lego. Testors Metalizer looks amazing, but the final paint surface is too fragile to long survive Lego handling.

[Erik Leppen]

there arent enough coloured parts compared to red and black ones

[series of pictures]

The fact that you have managed to make something as trivial as "interestingly colored models" into a selling point only proves the point you seem to argue against.

[BrickG]

I think the only decent way to recolor bricks is through the use of dyes/acids or whatever. They seem to hold up pretty good too.

[JGW3000]

Has anyone tried to change to color of LEGO blocks via dye treatment? A method I am contemplating is to find a weak solvent for ABS, such as a dilute solution of acetone (nail polish remover). The procedure would be to immerse the part in the solvent, wait a short period of time until the part gets 'tacky', and then add some dye, such as ink from a permanent marker. Let the dye infuse into the now-swollen plastic surface, and then remove the part and let dry, maybe under a heat lamp. With any luck, the part will shrink back to its original size, good as (nearly) new, and will have a permanently changed color. Will work best going from lighter to darker colors. Of course there will be some experimentation needed to determine soak and infuse times and best choice and concentration of solvents.

[Spitfire2865]

Ive seen dyed lego but with no solvent use. It may be better for the plastic as well to not use solvents but only dye.

[Lego Otaku]

Vinyl dye probably don't work well on LEGO because the bricks are formed under very high pressure, which means very dense plastic and hard for the dye to penetrate. Regular painting is probably the best solution

[weavil]

They won't go back to normal. Accidentally got nail polish remover on one before and it was "tacky" and "swollen" but was a little deformed.

Forgot about acrylic paint. It works pretty good. My daughter wanted to decorate a minifig and I used acrylic. It does come off with use, but if it is for a display then it will be fine.

Edited February 19, 2014 by weavil

[mmcb]

Here is an excellent video tutorial on how to change the colour of Lego Bricks:-

RIT Dye and Acetone are the way to go. Haven't used them myself (yet), but this seems to be the most common method I've found in my searches over the years.

MMCB

[JGW3000]

Thanks for the tips, I think some variation of RIT dye with acetone, or automotive-supply house vinyl dye will do the trick

[grum64]

Evening All

Hope everyone's OK.

I need this part in Dark Red for a car I'm building.

As Lego do not make this part in this colour does anyone know whether I can buy it ready painted or maybe the best way to paint it.

I'd be really grateful for any and all help and advice.

Thank you.

[JGW3000]

There is a thread on dyeing parts elsewhere on the site: I'd give a link but I am on mobile right now. Just search for dyeing Lego. RIT dye has been used by others successfully.

[Blakbird]

This is not a Technic part and there is no special knowledge of dyeing in the Technic forum. I think you will get better answers posting this is the General forum. Moving.....

[grum64]

Much appreciated. Thank you.

[Hobbes543]

I am working on a set conversion MOC and unfortunately one of the parts I need is not available in the color I want. What is the best method for painting a brick to achieve a new color? In my case I need brick 93604 in red, which to date no sets have.

[Fugazi]

Look in the topic I just merged with yours for some tips

[anothergol]

so has anyone of you tried to spray some parts? what kind of colors did you use? is it something acceptable by the lego purists?

Really, either you wanna make "Lego MOCs" and then it's the rules that make the game - the rules being more or less the same for everyone. Or you just wanna "build cool stuff", then yes, you'd be ok painting parts, glueing them, using parts of other brands, etc. BUT if this is your goal, you have better options than Lego, like 3D printing, which would give you much better, "adult" results.

So why do it? IMHO it's all in the rules. If a Lego MOC is bending the rules, I expect much much better from it. "How did he do that? Ah, it's glued :( What's this part? Ah, not a Lego one"