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I'm wondering what the hole on the new buffer plates could be used for, since they don't have studs on the top.

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I take it you mean the 2x2 stud attaching point of part 64424 etc? I always found that odd, and only useful on one occasion when I discovered I could route a gear train through it for a compact shunter. It didn't work anyway!

Considering the buffer beam is almost always used officially in the recess on the train wheel assembly, which therefore has studs higher than it, having a smooth top really makes no sense. It's not as if that part might be on the underside of a train base plate on a bogie and need to move side to side.

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Thanks for the info, ColletArrow. I've just been experimenting, and I found a way of using that hole:

DSC_9290.JPG

DSC_9291.JPG

DSC_9292.JPG

Probably wouldn't work with the snowplough design.

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Is there a way to run 88000 with only four batteries? I think I remember reading about it on this forum not to long ago. Couldn't find the topic it was in. Thanks! 

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I'm sure it's possible, connecting the terminals with wire instead of a battery, but why on earth would you want to do that? It means limiting the voltage to your motor to only 6V which means very slow trains.

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Say that I was planning my next steam locomotive, And I decided on a Mallet wheel arrangement. Should I have one set of driving wheels fixed, and the other set moving? Or should I have both sets moving? Talking about an 0-6-6-0 formation.

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On 1/8/2018 at 8:52 PM, Steamdemon said:

I'm wondering what the hole on the new buffer plates could be used for, since they don't have studs on the top.

WP_20180207_23_09_08_Rich

Hi there! In this case I found that hole can be useful :laugh:

I think it is something that can be used to reinforce the train structure (connecting it to a plate with holes and using a pin) and allowing to push or pull more weight. Or maybe a pivoting buffer.  :thumbup:

 

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3 hours ago, Steamdemon said:

Say that I was planning my next steam locomotive, And I decided on a Mallet wheel arrangement. Should I have one set of driving wheels fixed, and the other set moving? Or should I have both sets moving? Talking about an 0-6-6-0 formation.

Although it's undoubtedly more complex, I would make both sets of driving wheels powered.   Using the large lego wheels with flange for the outer and inner axles of each segment, and the flangeless driver for the center axle of each segment, you should be able to power all the wheels in each segment via connecting rods.   This assumes that you'll articulate the model in between segments.   If it's rigid, use flangeless drivers on the outer and center axles and only use the flanged wheels on the innermost axles.  So long as the distance between each of the segments is relatively close, it should still negotiate curves.   But look out for the overhangs at each end if that's the route you intend to go...     

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6 hours ago, Steamdemon said:

Say that I was planning my next steam locomotive, And I decided on a Mallet wheel arrangement. Should I have one set of driving wheels fixed, and the other set moving? Or should I have both sets moving? Talking about an 0-6-6-0 formation.

Might I ask what locomotive (if any) your model will be based on?

I would say that having both sets on swiveling bogies would be far better; it will significantly reduce the front end's overhang on LEGO's R40 corners and points. If you do go with the Mallet-style rear-set-fixed-to-the-frame, the front pivoting set will need to be on a double-linkage (like the front bogie of the Emerald Night) rather than a single pin. Also, the nose will stick out a mile when it goes around. If you can live with that then go for it, I'd love to see what you come up with.

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15 minutes ago, ColletArrow said:

I would say that having both sets on swiveling bogies would be far better; it will significantly reduce the front end's overhang on LEGO's R40 corners and points. If you do go with the Mallet-style rear-set-fixed-to-the-frame, the front pivoting set will need to be on a double-linkage (like the front bogie of the Emerald Night) rather than a single pin. Also, the nose will stick out a mile when it goes around. If you can live with that then go for it, I'd love to see what you come up with.

@Steamdemon  I think I misinterpreted slightly what you were asking, but I based on @ColletArrow's clarification, I believe you'll have a much easier time with the build if both sets of drivers are on swiveling bogies, as opposed to fixed to the frame.   If you intend to power the MOC, you should make sure all the main drivers are powered, otherwise you'll likely end up with slipping axles as the weight will be spread out over so many axles and large a distance.

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Ok, so swiveling bogies, that would probably mean I would want to put the power functions in the tender. Would still need about 8 25mm rubber bands, 2 PF train motors, and 8 small wheels....and the polarity switch. @ColletArrow @icemorons thanks for the advice. As for Locomotive basis, I'm going to research several possibilities. I'm not sure on what colour I should do it in though. (I'm tempted to use LDD to plan this one out).

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LDD is an excellent tool for this, you just have to have a catalog (BrickLink, Brickset etc) open to check the colours of the parts you're using.

RE Power: Seeing as you would want to power this beast from XL motors to give it a chance of actually moving, in order to power the driving wheels you would need to put them in the boiler with a link through a turntable-style part (e.g. 61485 and 60474). That may cause unwanted forces as the motors try to turn the bogies when the wheels get stuck, so the tender sounds the best option. How wide are you planning for this?

Also, perhaps you could set up a WIP thread, where we can collect ideas for you (if you want them, that is!).

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On 1/8/2018 at 2:52 PM, Steamdemon said:

I'm wondering what the hole on the new buffer plates could be used for, since they don't have studs on the top.

I used the hole to pin the rear buffer to a Technic plate with holes on my PRR Centipede so it doesn't fall off. 

centipede5.jpg

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On 15/02/2018 at 11:47 PM, ColletArrow said:

LDD is an excellent tool for this, you just have to have a catalog (BrickLink, Brickset etc) open to check the colours of the parts you're using.

RE Power: Seeing as you would want to power this beast from XL motors to give it a chance of actually moving, in order to power the driving wheels you would need to put them in the boiler with a link through a turntable-style part (e.g. 61485 and 60474). That may cause unwanted forces as the motors try to turn the bogies when the wheels get stuck, so the tender sounds the best option. How wide are you planning for this?

Also, perhaps you could set up a WIP thread, where we can collect ideas for you (if you want them, that is!).

Let's think, i'm probably going for a mixture of 6 and 8 wide. 6 wide for the front and boiler, 8 wide for cab and tender. I will make sure there's enough room for the headcodes at the front.

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hi im relatively new to lego trains not sold as sets by lego themselves, and was wondering if anyone could explain to me what Wheelbase Design is, what it looks like and how it works.

thx

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Not 100 percent sure what you mean but I'll give it a try. Wheelbase is the measure between two axles, generally between the front and rear axles  or first and last axles. Wheelbase is important in Lego train design because our trains must negotiate tight radius curved track. If the distance between two axles is too long the wheels will bind on the rails and the train won't make it through the curve. The standard Lego curves track allows about 12 studs (center to center) between axles before they will bind. If you have two axles on each truck (two or more wheels grouped together) on each end of your train car, a very common practice, they cannot be rigidly fixed to the train car at and must instead be allowed to swivel. For a truck with three axles on it you can go 7 studs (center to center), this is also the length of the standard PF train motor. 

The attached pics show some examples of the above. On my BNSF loco notice that the three axles are hinged between #2 and #3 to allow it to negotiate curves. In the other pic you can see examples of what works and what doesn't. Of course once you start adding pivot points to your trucks the sky's the limit for length but eventually overhang and other factors start to become a concern. Hope this helps. 

2018-03-25_04-26-05

 

2018-03-25_05-43-35

 

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Not sure if this is the best place to ask, but the glue on one of my Maersk stickers is failing and it is falling off. Anyone know of a way to fix and reuse it? New sheets are like $50+ on eBay/Bricklink.

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I will have a look @Cinderbike, maybe I can reproduce one for you I have the originals so I can scan them (in fact I already did I think), could you post an image of the problem here? I might not reproduce the whole sheet for now but at least I can probably help you out.

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On 3/30/2018 at 4:02 AM, Cinderbike said:

Not sure if this is the best place to ask, but the glue on one of my Maersk stickers is failing and it is falling off. Anyone know of a way to fix and reuse it? New sheets are like $50+ on eBay/Bricklink.

Which sticker?  @zephyr1934 sells stickers for custom containers on his BL store, (trainedbricks.com) including a Maersk set.

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Father bought a bulk lot at a garage sale 10+ years ago and it's been sitting in his garage...

Finally took a look at it this past weekend and it has a monorail in it.

There is a clean 9V battery box (from the 6482 Helicopter)

A motor and the black bases to make cars

Track

What is missing is the power cable to connect motor to battery box.

Is this cable monorail vintage specific or will newer PF cables work?

If I have to track down vintage cable, any known issues to look for?

Thanks

 

Paul

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@scatmanjack The monorail power cable (if we speak of this one here: https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=5306bc015&idColor=11#T=C&C=11) is not that uncommon, it has been used in around 22 sets. The connectors are 9V standard, which has been used back in the day for Technic, Train and other sets.

Known issue is the insulation of the cables. It's getting weak and brittle and dissolves quite often on these old cables. But the connectors are very easy to pry apart and the cable can be replaced with any other 2 prong cable of the same gauge. I have done this myself on some 9V Train track connection adapters.

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@scatmanjack Another option is to use a power functions battery box in conjunction with a power functions extension cord.

https://shop.lego.com/en-US/LEGO-Power-Functions-AAA-Battery-Box-88000

https://shop.lego.com/en-US/LEGO-Power-Functions-Extension-Wire-8886

The only disadvantage, is that if you want the monorail to be four wide, the four brick tall battery box may be a cosmetic eyesore for some. 

Best of luck. :classic:

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Can we get a train banner again, and some decent colours?

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Did "we" ever have one?

Over in Scale Modeling they have an American diesel train (SD whatnot) in the banner, the Starwars folks have their "feel the force" type banner, but here it was the plain vanilla thing that the front page shows. I can't really remember.

But the Easter-Bunny thing is more than outdated, isn't it? Well at least when looking at the tray with the chocolate Easter eggs: All gone. Since long ...     

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