WesternOutlaw

TRAIN TECH Help, General Questions & Talk to the Staff

Recommended Posts

A bit of setup: My son has a Horizon Express that we modified to remove the side chevrons, but he's constantly having a hard time storing or carrying around the passenger cars because of the Jacob Bogie. I'm not a train guy, but I do a LOT of Digital Designer building, and came up with a simple solution to remove the Jacob Bogie and just add 2 regular ones.

My actual question is this: The Horizon Express engine car occasionally detaches from the front magnetic holder as-is, will this problem get worse if I modify the center to have two regular magnetic bogies, or will it stay the same? Will 2 regular bogies even work in this model?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A bit of setup: My son has a Horizon Express that we modified to remove the side chevrons, but he's constantly having a hard time storing or carrying around the passenger cars because of the Jacob Bogie. I'm not a train guy, but I do a LOT of Digital Designer building, and came up with a simple solution to remove the Jacob Bogie and just add 2 regular ones.

My actual question is this: The Horizon Express engine car occasionally detaches from the front magnetic holder as-is, will this problem get worse if I modify the center to have two regular magnetic bogies, or will it stay the same? Will 2 regular bogies even work in this model?

The magnets can hold many cars just fine, as long as the magnets inside their holders are aligned properly. Sometimes they don't and the connection is weak, that's probably what you're seeing. Moving them around a bit to get one of them to turn around usually fixes that.

Edited by aurly

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My actual question is this: The Horizon Express engine car occasionally detaches from the front magnetic holder as-is, will this problem get worse if I modify the center to have two regular magnetic bogies, or will it stay the same? Will 2 regular bogies even work in this model?

Most regular LEGO trains have normal bogies so it is unlikely they will cause any trouble. Really long trains will eventually pull apart due to the weight on the magnetic couplings, and the HE is quite heavy, but I've run much longer and heavier trains without problems. The newer couplings have studs on top which can be joined using a 1x2 tile if you experience trouble.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The newer couplings have studs on top which can be joined using a 1x2 tile if you experience trouble.

Yeah, he keeps popping those apart and sticking the tiles on top of the train. He thinks it is hilarious for some reason.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The magnets can hold many cars just fine, as long as the magnets inside their holders are aligned properly. Sometimes they don't and the connection is weak, that's probably what you're seeing. Moving them around a bit to get one of them to turn around usually fixes that.

I have that problem a lot. With a five long train, usually one magnet doesn't want to cooperate. Once they're aligned it goes back to being ok, I just wish they'd stay that way all the time.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A bit of setup: My son has a Horizon Express that we modified to remove the side chevrons, but he's constantly having a hard time storing or carrying around the passenger cars because of the Jacob Bogie. I'm not a train guy, but I do a LOT of Digital Designer building, and came up with a simple solution to remove the Jacob Bogie and just add 2 regular ones.

My actual question is this: The Horizon Express engine car occasionally detaches from the front magnetic holder as-is, will this problem get worse if I modify the center to have two regular magnetic bogies, or will it stay the same? Will 2 regular bogies even work in this model?

Heh heh heh, a bunch of the HE fans around here have been going the other direction. I would agree that as designed it is a little cumbersome to deal with. My solution was even simpler than yours, I pulled out one of the technic pins from the bogie and replaced it with an axle pin. So the bogie is physically attached to only one of the cars, and slips in to the other. The way I have it the axle pin is attached to the bogie, but as I type this, I suspect flipping it over and attaching it to the car instead would be easier to work with.

As for the magnets, you have to listen for the "click" when you bring two couplers together. That sound tells you the magnet inside the shell popped in to the correct orientation. If you don't here it, try pulling the cars apart. Either it will be hard to do and every thing is already fine, or you'll just bring them together a second time.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Okay, I'm back with another dumb question. The Horizon Express modification went off without a hitch (Wait, was that a pun? I dunno.), and in fact the only downside is that now he has to either stack the cars when he's carrying them, or make two trips. He doesn't seem to mind doing either, though so I'm calling it a win.

Recently, I designed him this car (click for big):

sharktrain-o.jpg_thumb.jpg

It's 8 studs wide, though, and I don't if that's going to be a problem for getting pulled along a pretty standard loop setup track by a 7939 Cargo Train.Anyone have experience with 8-Wides?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nah, he's got one of those sharks from the Agents set with the speed boat, and his mom kept putting it on the car carrier for the 7939. He loved it, but kept trying to pile the cars on top of the shark. I remembered I had a white train car base and kid of built it around there. The shark's so big (bigger than the normal LEGO sharks, anyway) that I had to do it 8-Wide. I'm not actually a fan of cramped aquarium cars in real-life, but it's very important to my son that his shark be included in his train.

I will admit, though, that the file name is totally a Sharknado pun.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Okay, I'm back with another dumb question. The Horizon Express modification went off without a hitch (Wait, was that a pun? I dunno.), and in fact the only downside is that now he has to either stack the cars when he's carrying them, or make two trips. He doesn't seem to mind doing either, though so I'm calling it a win.

Recently, I designed him this car (click for big):

sharktrain-o.jpg_thumb.jpg

It's 8 studs wide, though, and I don't if that's going to be a problem for getting pulled along a pretty standard loop setup track by a 7939 Cargo Train.Anyone have experience with 8-Wides?

8 wide is perfectly acceptable as long as you watch clearances on the side of the track. There would be no reason why the train could not be pulled. And many of us build trains in 8 wide anyway, and we see no problems. Only weight issues, but this doesnt seem to be TOO part intensive to be too heavy. Go for it!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Okay, I'm back with another dumb question. The Horizon Express modification went off without a hitch (Wait, was that a pun? I dunno.), and in fact the only downside is that now he has to either stack the cars when he's carrying them, or make two trips. He doesn't seem to mind doing either, though so I'm calling it a win.

Recently, I designed him this car (click for big):

sharktrain-o.jpg_thumb.jpg

It's 8 studs wide, though, and I don't if that's going to be a problem for getting pulled along a pretty standard loop setup track by a 7939 Cargo Train.Anyone have experience with 8-Wides?

That's a cool idea. I think there is also a TV show called Shark Tank. You shouldn't have any trouble pulling a 8 wide car.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

sharktrain-o.jpg_thumb.jpg

This is great! I didn't know Lego had a shark that would require an 8 wide car, so then I had to check it out, and saw that it comes with Lasers on its head in Agents? Dr. Evil would be proud.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the compliments guys! I'm still feeling my way through this stuff, and after a disastrous modification to the Monster Fighters Ghost Train that allowed it to fit on straight rails but not turn in curves I figured I'd better get a bunch of second opinions before I built something that wouldn't work again.

The shark did originally have lasers built on to it's head! But the Traveler's Tales guys used it in LEGO Pirates of the Caribbean to dissuade people from swimming too far away from the play area, and that's where my son first saw it. I had 6 of them, so I dismantled the lasers on one and gave it to him. I never would have figured out it can fit an entire minifig in it's mouth if it hadn't been for him!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the compliments guys! I'm still feeling my way through this stuff, and after a disastrous modification to the Monster Fighters Ghost Train that allowed it to fit on straight rails but not turn in curves I figured I'd better get a bunch of second opinions before I built something that wouldn't work again.

A brilliant car. The only problem you might have is if this car is so wide that it makes your other cars look too skinny. If that does happen, the quick fix is to have a 7 wide transition car between the 6 wide and 8 wide (I often do that with 7 wide steam engine tenders between an 8 wide locomotive cab and 6 wide cars).

As for any problems you may have had with the ghost train, what you hit was mechanical. Steam engines are probably the toughest trains to get working well on lego track. Even the best builders out there have to make several prototypes before they find something that works. The one secret is to build a simple mocup that has the final dimensions you are looking for, but uses mostly common bricks you have on hand, without any detailing. So it is easy to update quickly without the need to purchase many bricks that you do not have.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Can I have my Real life trains added to the MOC Index? Here are the thumbnails: (size 240x)

Steam locomotives:

12680685135_3e8d3d19f8_m.jpg

0-6-0 Tram

12681155514_a3960c9089_m.jpg

0-6-0T switcher

12680685225_a87dfd3155_m.jpg

0-6-0ST switcher

12680827523_ca03a7f92a_m.jpg

4-6-2 Express engine

12680827623_8912e16766_m.jpg

4-6-2 Express engine

12681157664_556f079beb_m.jpg

2-10-0 Heavy freight locomotive

Diesel engines:

12680826933_66bd710599_m.jpg

0-6-0 Diesel switcher

Freight cars & Cabooses:

12680683955_e5ffc301ff_m.jpg

Boxcars

12681153764_50d7cde95f_m.jpg

Coal wagon

12680683735_e0777f6066_m.jpg

Gasoline tanker

12681153014_76b664e87b_m.jpg

Guard's Van

12680826513_6351ea9093_m.jpg

Guard's Van / baggage car

Passenger Cars:

12681154454_59f87ee940_m.jpg

Baggage Car

12680826193_2a04b03663_m.jpg

Passenger Coaches

12680825933_a492b357e9_m.jpg

Guard's coach

12680684905_2301138f3c_m.jpg

Passenger coaches

Topic seen here: http://www.eurobrick...showtopic=88066

The size i have here is the closest I could find from Flickr to the required 160x120 as stated in the index. Sorry!

Edited by Murdoch17

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice job Murdoch17!!! Looks very neat! I especially like your brown engine! tan shunters are also nice of course (and the rest, but those strike out I think!).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi there

I was wondering if I could ask for some help regarding powering the Toy Story train!

I have a toy story display I use for Lego shows and the last time I powered the train it worked ok but it was painful? So for the upcoming show I thought I would try to put another motor on it for more power but now it just spins on the spot! Is the train to light to pull? I know the front red wheels spin on the spot bait but the powered wheels are just spinning and hardly going! When I start them it makes that noise and doesn't move, then the wheels spin on the spot and sometimes it moves, but mostly it doesn't!

I would be so grateful for any advice! Batteries I am using are rechargeables with a standed battery box, RC receiver and powered wheels! The show runs for 2 full days so would love this going as the kids love it!

Thanks so much!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Any chance of some pictures of how you have powered your train? Do you have rubber bands on at least one of the driven wheels?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'd suggest keeping the locomotive unpowered and put a PF train motor in one of the cars with the battery box and IR receiver (probably the box car or build a new power car in the same style as the other cars)

-errata-

Doh! I missed that you had already tried this solution. It SHOULD work, the train is small and light enough. If you go back to this idea, you might want to check if all of the wheels spin freely on the various cars. It could be that you have one wheel that is causing a lot of binding and it may be part of the reason why you are still having problems. Also, if you are pushing the engine, make sure you do NOT have the traction bands on the drive wheels of the engine.

Edited by zephyr1934

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Putting the large drivers on the PF train motor will make your train very fast but with very little pulling power.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I powered the Toy Story train by putting the train motor directly on the engine to drive the big wheels, and the battery box in the "bank" car. It worked just fine (and it doesn't need to pull a lot... it's just the Toy Story train).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So I might be building a train, but it will be made out of technic pieces as that is my realm of expertise. My question is should I post it on this forum or the technic one?

P.S. I hope to make very fast.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi guys, Im a newbie to Lego train and just recently got an Emerald Night for a decent price. Did a quick research and ended up buying another set(60052) mainly for the PF and tracks. Also acquired an XL motor so I hope I've made the right basic set-up anyways i will soon be adding tracks and someone suggested ME models and Bricklink.

What are ME models? Are they compatible with Lego trains and tracks? Are there any Aussie supplier? Thanks a heaps for the help.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.